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  1. Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Posts
    130
    #2161
    Sir 12vdc, maraming salamat ulet!

    yong gulong nakabit ngayon Bridgestone Dueller A/T D697, yong lang pinag pipilian ko yong Goodyear Wrangler A/T-SA at Yokohama Geolandar A/T-S, okey din yong Hankook kaso di ko alam saan sa Cebu meron.

  2. Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Posts
    130
    #2162
    ano ba yan?

    double posting naman ako!
    Last edited by rzeraus; July 9th, 2014 at 02:03 PM. Reason: double post

  3. Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    3,522
    #2163
    Quote Originally Posted by rzeraus View Post
    Sir 12vdc, maraming salamat ulet!

    yong gulong nakabit ngayon Bridgestone Dueller A/T D697, yong lang pinag pipilian ko yong Goodyear Wrangler A/T-SA at Yokohama Geolandar A/T-S, okey din yong Hankook kaso di ko alam saan sa Cebu meron.
    Bakit ayawmo ulit ng D697? Maingay pero tolerable naman, matagal din ang wear.

  4. Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    3,522
    #2164
    Has anyone tried duplicating the keyfob?

    I bought this remote with FCC ID KBRASTU15 Made by Calsonic Kensei and i cant seem to access keyfob programming mode(hazard ligt)? I tried 3 similar methods but no luck.



    Stock keyfob is made by Siemens VDO FCC ID KR55WY8452

    IMPORTANT: Before entering programming mode, have in possession all of the transmitters you will be using on the vehicle. Once you program the transmitter, all previous codes will be erased from the memory. The other transmitters will not be functional until you program the transmitters again.

    1. Close and lock all doors with the driver’s side power lock/unlock switch.
    2. Insert key into ignition and remove it from the ignition key cylinder at least six times within 10 seconds. Your Hazard Lamps will flash if you have performed this step successfully. NOTE: Withdraw key completely from ignition cylinder each time. If this procedure is performed too fast, system will not enter programming mode.
    3. Insert key into the ignition cylinder and turn to the ACC position.
    4. Within 5 seconds, push ANY button on the remote transmitter. Your Hazard Lamps should flash. NOTE: Do not press the button more than one time in the above step. If the button is pressed more than one time, the programming procedure will not be successful.
    5. If there are any remaining transmitters (including the old ones), unlock then lock all doors using the driver’s side power lock/unlock switch and within 5 seconds, push ANY button on the next remote. Your Hazard Lamps should flash. Repeat this step for each transmitter (including any existing transmitters).
    6. Turn the key to the OFF position, remove keys from the ignition, unlock doors using the driver’s side power lock/unlock switch and open the driver side door.
    1. Sit in vehicle. Key out of ignition. Close and lock all doors with the driver’s side power lock/unlock switch on the drivers door.
    2. Insert key into ignition and remove it from ignition key cylinder at least six to 14 times within 12 seconds. Your hazard lights will flash a couple of times if you have performed this step successfully. (Withdraw key completely from ignition cylinder each time). If this procedure is performed too fast, or too slow, system will not enter programming mode. If nothing happened pull key out of ignition and start over from step one (you must open drivers door then restart step one).
    3. Insert key right away when you see the hazard lights flash into the ignition cylinder and turn to the ACC position. Do not start the vehicle. At this time the new ID code is ready to be entered from the replacement remote.
    4. Within 5 seconds, push ANY button on the keyless remote. Your hazard lights should flash. (Do not press the button more than one time in the above step). If the button is pressed more than one time, the programming procedure will not be successful.
    http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/DA...342_navara.pdf

  5. Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    29
    #2165
    Thanks sir jay

  6. Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    256
    #2166
    Quote Originally Posted by 12vdc View Post
    Bakit ayawmo ulit ng D697? Maingay pero tolerable naman, matagal din ang wear.
    yan gulong ko dati. dueller AT. compared sa HT na tyre... parang ayoko ng bumalik sa AT hahaha gusto ko ng payapang byahe... :D

  7. Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    256
    #2167
    Update ko lang. They tried rebuilding the rack and pinion pero nag leleak pa rin daw. Need to replace na daw yung Rack and pinion

    Posted via Tsikot Mobile App

  8. Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    3,522
    #2168
    Quote Originally Posted by jay185 View Post
    yan gulong ko dati. dueller AT. compared sa HT na tyre... parang ayoko ng bumalik sa AT hahaha gusto ko ng payapang byahe... :D
    Tolerable sakin yung ingay, i do lots of longdrive but mas tahimik talaga HT.. Mas confident lang ako tuwing nasa farm at may karga sa likod using AT.

    Quote Originally Posted by jay185 View Post
    Update ko lang. They tried rebuilding the rack and pinion pero nag leleak pa rin daw. Need to replace na daw yung Rack and pinion
    Tnry mo muna sana yung stopleak, meron yta sa concorde pero cyclo brand.. Lagi mo ba fnflush PS fluid?

  9. Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    256
    #2169
    Nope. Casa maintained to eh. Not sure kung baket di nila chinecheck yun. Lam ko every 20k ata or 40k ang palit ng steering fluid

    Posted via Tsikot Mobile App

  10. Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    3,522
    #2170
    40k together with major fluid change. I flush kung medyo hindi na clear or hindi ko na kita yung level mark sa other side ng reservoir.

  11. Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    55
    #2171
    may bago nang navara mga sir!

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  12. Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Posts
    130
    #2172
    Sir 12vdc,

    Sir your oil catch can is still installed and is it really working? I'm planning to have one installed using an air filter.

    I have just came across the discussion on Remote bypass oil filtration you and dvldoc are really great. Once again thank you very much

  13. Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    3,522
    #2173
    ^ Yes sir, still installed about 1/8 na yung oil sa bottom kinda lazy lang maglinis ng container paabutin ko muna 1/4.. IDK how effective using air filters, largest i've seen is about size of 400mL bottle most of it is sealed with purge valve at the buttom. Your goal in OCC design is how to separate oil mist/atomized oil maybe by coalescing. Some use pape filters, stainless steel brush - i used ss wire mesh. Those air filter for air compressor have some metallic and ceramic pore element designed for absorbing water from pressurized air so im not sure how it will perform with oil vapour. Try asking one of our Nav owners(Whistler), he got the provent200 but no update yet with performance and how effective compared to DIY OCC.

    Im hoping the new navara will have this blowby oil separator built in the system like most modern euro engines do.

  14. Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    3,522
    #2174
    Quote Originally Posted by ikalinga View Post
    may bago nang navara mga sir!

    Don't forget the chassis. See how this D23 looks just like the same as the ongoing D40 (control arms, body mounts, cross members). Only difference i could see in this pic is the intercooler - anybody got a hint why they placed it lower?(current is headlight level).



    Body lift of the new shell should make it look taller, but i bet suspension is still low low like a plough.

    http://tsikot.com/forums/nissan-cars...p-truck-98635/

  15. Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    256
    #2175
    Update. Sa alternator. Pinapalitan ko ng pulley yung aken. Yung original na pulley nag bond don sa shaft ng alternator. Parang hininang yung original pulley sa shaft nung tinanggal. Nililiha nila yung shaft ngayon. Picturan ko later yung itsura ng original pulley

    Posted via Tsikot Mobile App

  16. Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Posts
    130
    #2176
    ^ Yes sir, still installed about 1/8 na yung oil sa bottom kinda lazy lang maglinis ng container paabutin ko muna 1/4.. IDK how effective using air filters, largest i've seen is about size of 400mL bottle most of it is sealed with purge valve at the buttom. Your goal in OCC design is how to separate oil mist/atomized oil maybe by coalescing. Some use pape filters, stainless steel brush - i used ss wire mesh. Those air filter for air compressor have some metallic and ceramic pore element designed for absorbing water from pressurized air so im not sure how it will perform with oil vapour. Try asking one of our Nav owners(Whistler), he got the provent200 but no update yet with performance and how effective compared to DIY OCC.
    Noted that one sir 12vdc, yes i have to remove the metallic filter and i'm planning to use stainless steel wire mesh use in cleaning cooking pans. One more thing, on the replacement oil filter from Baldwin I have cross-reference and my options are the B34 and B7421. You have mentioned several times in the forum you used the B233, which one is better I might be able to get it from the states if my brother is in good mode

    Thank you.

  17. Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    3,522
    #2177
    Sir, i recommended B233 because its the largest lube filtre upgrade that you could go without having issues. Remember when it comes to filtration, the larger the better (larger filter area slows down oil flow in the media resulting to improved efficiency). You wont be able to upgrade any longer than B233 because of vertical clearance it would hit the cooler pipe. For comparison of dimensions for our YD25 engine with lube filter thread 3/4-16 UNF:

    OEM MANN HUMMEL W 920/48 (Nissan PN# 15208 BN30A)
    Height = 92 mm
    PSID = 14.5

    Baldwin B7431(direct cross of OEM)
    Height = 96.8 mm
    PSID = 16

    Baldwin B233 and B229
    Height = 111.1 mm
    PSID 8 and 20

    Baldwin B34
    Height = 98.4 mm
    PSID = 8

    Baldwin B2-HPG and Fleetguard LF3487 (microglass upgrade, would hit the pipe/ not fit)
    Height = 137.3cm & 137.08 mm
    PSID = 8

    From those choices, B233 is the largest you could go, its also the most availalble in the local market, plus the BPV of 8 PSID is on the safe side using 40 weight oil at 10k kms OCI..


    hth

    references:
    MANN-FILTER Online Catalogue Europe - Product Details Oil Filter W 920/48
    Baldwin Filters E-Catalog

  18. Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    256
    #2178
    1405579052087.jpg
    eto yung itsura nung oem na alternator pulley

  19. Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Posts
    1,851
    #2179
    ^ sir yung baldwin b163 puede ba ? Pagdating sa fuel filter primary at 2nd anu prefer nyo? Tia


    Posted via Tsikot Mobile App

  20. Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    3,522
    #2180
    Baldwin B163
    Height = 98.4 mm
    PSID = 8
    Gasket & thread = same as OE
    Parehas ng B34 so pwede kaso mas malaki pa rin B233.

    Sa Fuel Filter OEM pa rin. I think i have mentioned this already some pages back.. Made some research yrs ago, did actually dissected all availalble filters to compare the media size construction, etc. Concluded that nothing beats OEM.

    Primary filter is the water separator, the deep construction makes it perfect for coalescing water. Wax, water, most organic and heavy particles are usually filtered at this stage.

    Secondary is the micron filter. It filters asphaltines better because of very large surface area and the design of media is rolled not pleated..The built-in standpipe makes sure all fuel pass from top to buttom of filter element making no shortcuts, also helps prevent sucking air that usually stays on the top of filter head.

    If you want improved version use remote setup with lift pump.. Lift pump because adding or modifying filter heads without lift-pump could introduce resistance to the fuel line.. Remember the vehicle does not have built in lift-pump in the tank, its the fuel pump that do the sucking. Resistance could make issues with fuel deprivation..

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