All New 2016 Civic

[AllenR]

Oh I thought it'd be a sub-10k upgrade. ��

So going for the underseat subs alone without the amp and seps won't offer a substantial improvement?

The speakers aren't the best, but personally not too much of an inconvenience to spend 50k just to rectify it.

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Well, the active underseat sub alone would definitely improve the sound quite a bit! Plus it's simpler to install as opposed to a full-blown replacement like what I did. That would be the best bang-for-buck addition to the Civic's audio system IMHO. The stock sound system sorely lacks low end.

I also wouldn't spend 50k on a sound upgrade, but it was a gift, so what the hell

[whiteb16a]

Yes, personalization, which is aesthetic and is the same reason that everyone else mods their car. 😉

I had the stock 16s for a few days before upgrading to 18s. Road imperfections are more pronounced, but not to the point that the ride has become uncomfortable.

It also doesn't impact the suspension negatively since you have the same overall circumference anyway. I had 18s on my old car before (from stock 16s as well) and didn't need to prematurely replace any suspension bits even after 50,000 km.

The only advantage I see with the RS rims is that OEM wheels are usually more durable than aftermarket ones. But it does look very ordinary, especially since there are so many RS Civics.

I almost pulled the trigger on a set of RS rims when I was having difficulty finding 18s that would go well with the Civic. I looked a bit harder and eventually found a set to my liking.

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Low profile tires does affect suspension because the suspension system was originally designed with a certain tire size in mind. That is the reason why road imperfections are more pronounced on low profile tires because it has lesser "cushioning effect", hence, the intensity of the forces transferred to the suspension system are higher. Maybe your case differs because you are careful. For my purpose though, ie, driving through sharp humps in the village (my sons calls it humpsville :-), my chances of tearing the suspension parts are more likely than not. Further, some dealerships, if not all does not give warranty to suspension parts if tires are none stock, though the trick is to put the stocks ones when claiming.

[Vasher]

Thanks sa referral sir. but a Modern Steel unit arrived for me. Di kasi nabigyan ng Blue Lim. Ed. unit yung dealer na inorderan ko so nung inofferan ako ng Modern Steel kinuha ko na since isa din naman yun sa mga color choices ko.



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Wow! Dumating na unit mo sir? Dito sa visayas sabi nang agent ko next na daw. Mukhang totoo nman kasi yung sa inyo dumating na.

[jut703]

Hmm.. Do you think Sir Tann's info is correct for the 1.8 limited? They cost cut here and there(cheaper gauges and what not) to compensate for the more expensive paint job, navigation, etc...? Kinda reminds me of Ranger FX2...

The analog gauges usually come with the non-touch screen HU (like in the Civic LX). Historically, HCPI only adds cosmetic changes and navi systems to their limited edition models, like with the City and CRV before.

Well, the underseat sub alone would definitely improve the sound quite a bit! Plus it's simpler to install as opposed to a full-blown replacement like what I did. That would be the best bang-for-buck addition to the Civic's audio system IMHO. The stock sound system sorely lacks low end.

I also wouldn't spend 50k on a sound upgrade, but it was a gift, so what the hell

Hmm if that's the case, underseat subs are something to consider.

Though it'll be a bit different from the Touring as the Touring's sub is in between the rear speakers.

Low profile tires does affect suspension because the suspension system was originally designed with a certain tire size in mind. That is the reason why road imperfections are more pronounced on low profile tires because it has lesser "cushioning effect", hence, the intensity of the forces transferred to the suspension system are higher. Maybe your case differs because you are careful. For my purpose though, ie, driving through sharp humps in the village (my sons calls it humpsville :-), my chances of tearing the suspension parts are more likely than not. Further, some dealerships, if not all does not give warranty to suspension parts if tires are none stock, though the trick is to put the stocks ones when claiming.

My regular route comprises of deep potholes from stolen tax money and overloaded dump trucks, along with unpaved roads (again stolen tax money). I also frequently pushed the car hard in mountain roads and race tracks with no adverse effects to my susoension. Anyone who knows me also knows I don't drive slowly, though I do try not to damage my car as best as I could.

Yet like I said, I didn't have to prematurely replace any suspension bits.

To each his own of course, if you're not comfortable with 18s, that's perfectly fine.

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[AllenR]

Hmm if that's the case, underseat subs are something to consider.

Though it'll be a bit different from the Touring as the Touring's sub is in between the rear speakers.

Yeah, I opted not to go for a rear-deck sub as there are "rattling" issues with the Touring models (my cousin in the U.S. has one) - something with the mounting mechanism, I think.

Another thing is that the underseat sub is simpler to install (I just used velcro tape to affix the sub to the carpet LOL), easier to remove/replace, and is enclosed (as opposed to a deck-mounted sub which has to be optimized for open-air operation, plus it would need an amp).

I just measured the space under the seat and made sure that the sub would fit.

[jut703]

Yeah, I opted not to go for a rear-deck sub as there are "rattling" issues with the Touring models (my cousin in the U.S. has one) - something with the mounting mechanism, I think.

Another thing is that the underseat sub is simpler to install (I just used velcro tape to affix the sub to the carpet LOL), easier to remove/replace, and is enclosed (as opposed to a deck-mounted sub which has to be optimized for open-air operation, plus it would need an amp).

I just measured the space under the seat and made sure that the sub would fit.

Yeah I read about the rattling issues too. I guess the rear shelf isn't sturdy enough for the thumps of the 8" sub.

How do you connect the underseat sub to the head unit?

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[AllenR]

Yeah I read about the rattling issues too. I guess the rear shelf isn't sturdy enough for the thumps of the 8" sub.

How do you connect the underseat sub to the head unit?

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Just splice and tap into the front woofer wires (near the door hinges) - no need to connect to the HU.

The sub I bought can handle speaker-level input, so no need to mess with the HU

Edit - Image from the manual:

[jut703]

Just splice and tap into the front woofer wires - no need to connect to the HU. The sub I bought can handle speaker-level input, so no need to mess with the HU

Edit - Image from the manual:

Hmm that's the tricky part, would've wanted to go without having to splice the stock speakers so I can revert to 100% stock if ever.

My Altis before also wasn't subwoofer-ready and I was advised not to add an underseat sub since it would just tap into the existing front speakers and not have a dedicated channel for bass so it would essentially be a 3rd front speaker. Not sure how accurate. Again, I'm not into car audio so I just dropped the idea entirely.

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[AllenR]

Hmm that's the tricky part, would've wanted to go without having to splice the stock speakers so I can revert to 100% stock if ever.

My Altis before also wasn't subwoofer-ready and I was advised not to add an underseat sub since it would just tap into the existing front speakers and not have a dedicated channel for bass so it would essentially be a 3rd front speaker. Not sure how accurate. Again, I'm not into car audio so I just dropped the idea entirely.

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You could run a wire to even just one side and connect it directly to the speaker terminal - this way it's 100% reversible.

The sub is designed for non-sub-ready cars, it has its own built-in amplifier and will not interfere with the signals going to the stock speakers. It just "reads" the signal meant for the stock speakers, amplifies it, and feeds it to the subwoofer. The sub also has a gain and crossover control: essentially, it has its own volume control and it filters out the signal to take in only the low-end (bass) notes.

It all sounds daunting, but in practice it's really straightforward. When in doubt and if inclined, a car audio shop could probably install it in less than an hour.

[jut703]

You could run a wire to even just one side and connect it directly to the speaker terminal - this way it's 100% reversible.

The sub is designed for non-sub-ready cars, it has its own built-in amplifier and will not interfere with the signals going to the stock speakers. It just "reads" the signal meant for the stock speakers, amplifies it, and feeds it to the subwoofer. The sub also has a gain and crossover control: essentially, it has its own volume control and it filters out the signal to take in only the low-end (bass) notes.

It all sounds daunting, but in practice it's really straightforward. When in doubt and if inclined, a car audio shop could probably install it in less than an hour.

Thanks for the explanation, now I just feel regret since I had the option to get underseat subs before as a freebie for my Altis (although just an AVT one) but I just got several pairs of horns instead.

Not sure if I really want to spend money on the speakers since I survived with the laptop speakers of the FB Civic anyway. 🤔

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