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  1. Join Date
    Mar 2010
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    3,822
    #1081
    Quote Originally Posted by dexter711 View Post
    Hey man hows the forester on out of town trips? FC?comfort?hinde ba siya nabibitin sa akyatan(full packed going to baguio) kasi if nag a-out of town trips/vacation kame..inaabot ng 14-16 hrs..

    I've been looking on line regarding models of forester..and we have here the forester x and xs..ano piangkaiba ng dalawang model? thanks
    we have forester 2.0x and 2.5xt here in the philippines, both will be able to climb up baguio full packed no problems lalo na ang 2.5xt, fc is about 7-8km/liter on both the 2.0 and 2.5xt, both are very comfortable compared to it's competitors.

    difference:
    exterior
    2.0x doesn't have rear wing, only 16" rims
    interior
    2.5xt has leather seats and power front seats
    engine
    2.0x has the new engine which is belt driven and supposedly has better FC compared to the previous foresters and no turbo
    2.5xt has a turbo and very very powerful engine

    if you can afford the 2.5xt get that one since the performance is just worlds apart and FC is about the same as the 2.0x, also if you plan to mod it the 2.5xt can pretty much use everything the STi has except for the rims since they have different bolt patterns.

  2. Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    855
    #1082
    Quote Originally Posted by dexter711 View Post
    Hey man hows the forester on out of town trips? FC?comfort?hinde ba siya nabibitin sa akyatan(full packed going to baguio) kasi if nag a-out of town trips/vacation kame..inaabot ng 14-16 hrs..

    I've been looking on line regarding models of forester..and we have here the forester x and xs..ano piangkaiba ng dalawang model? thanks
    I can only speak for the 2.5XT because that's what I own:

    1. FC - OK na sa highway. There are more reports on FC in the Fuel Consumption Database thread: http://tsikot.com/forums/subaru-cars...atabase-48348/. If FC is very important for you, I wouldn't recommend this variant. Quite thirsty if you enjoy pressing hard on the gas or if you regularly traverse stop-and-go traffic.

    2. Comfort - very nice. Spacious in the back, even for those who sit behind me (I'm 5'10"). Smooth riding but probably not as soft as a sedan in the same price range.

    3. Power - there's lots of it under the hood kaya definitely, di nabibitin sa akyatan kahit puno ng tao at karga. Very nice for overtaking too. With its power, alam na alam mong di ka mahihirapan sa hatak.

    For more on the comparo between the 2.5XT and 2.0X, visit the MI website: Motor Image, Philippines - Subaru - Showroom > Forester > Introduction. Di ko lang alam kung updated na yung info based on the 2012 models.
    Last edited by JackFlash; May 7th, 2012 at 04:32 PM.

  3. Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    23
    #1083
    Am doing 10km/l on my fxt pag highway. Basta 100-120 km lang takbo. Pag steady 160 kmh, nasa 7-8 lang.. Sobrang sarap sa long drive. Power and comfort combined. Mas ramdam sa long drive yung symetrical AWD specially sa mga kurbada. And you always feel safe while driving. Kahit long pile of trucks confident ka na ndi ka mabibitin sa pag overtake. Get the 2.5 xt. If you are travelling fully loaded. The turbo is so amazing.
    To add , FXT has self leveling suspension. Kahit puno yung likod, ndi dumadapa. Naka HID pa.

  4. Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    6,090
    #1084
    I looked at the warranty booklet and Motor Image does require servicing at the 1st month or 1,600 kms. I guess I have no choice but to follow this strictly for the sake of warranty.

    It also says in the manual that the oil Subaru requires is 0W-20 (for complete oil change) or 5W-30, 5W-40 (for top ups). For Forester owners who had their units serviced at Motor Image Greenhills, what kind of viscosity did they use on your unit? I know they are using Motul oil.

  5. Join Date
    Mar 2010
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    3,822
    #1085
    Quote Originally Posted by number001 View Post
    I looked at the warranty booklet and Motor Image does require servicing at the 1st month or 1,600 kms. I guess I have no choice but to follow this strictly for the sake of warranty.

    It also says in the manual that the oil Subaru requires is 0W-20 (for complete oil change) or 5W-30, 5W-40 (for top ups). For Forester owners who had their units serviced at Motor Image Greenhills, what kind of viscosity did they use on your unit? I know they are using Motul oil.

    5W-30 on mine but i buy my own oil and just bring it to casa, it's cheaper that way.

  6. Join Date
    May 2005
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    6,090
    #1086
    ^What brand/kind of oil do you use? And where do you buy them? thanks!

  7. Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    2
    #1087
    I looked at this car this past week and was blown away. Trying to do my homework by back reading to get as much info, but theres a lot. I have so much appreciation for this forum as there are a lot of experts. Been comparing montero, fortuner, tucson, sante fe, but I just keep going back to the fxt.

    I haven't gone thru this on the back reads, but is now a good time to get a fxt? I mean is there a new model coming out in a few months or start of 2013? Or useless ba to wait?

  8. Join Date
    Mar 2010
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    3,822
    #1088
    Quote Originally Posted by number001 View Post
    ^What brand/kind of oil do you use? And where do you buy them? thanks!
    i use castrol and got them from fusionR. i tried several other oils(liqui moly,royal purple, shell helix,motul) and find castrol better.

  9. Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    855
    #1089
    Quote Originally Posted by Alone View Post
    I looked at this car this past week and was blown away. Trying to do my homework by back reading to get as much info, but theres a lot. I have so much appreciation for this forum as there are a lot of experts. Been comparing montero, fortuner, tucson, sante fe, but I just keep going back to the fxt.

    I haven't gone thru this on the back reads, but is now a good time to get a fxt? I mean is there a new model coming out in a few months or start of 2013? Or useless ba to wait?
    There's news of an all-new 2014 model to be launched late 2013: 2014 Subaru Forester Spy Shots. If you can't wait for late 2013, now is the time to buy. Besides, I think the actual launch in the Phils will be by 1st or 2nd quarter 2014, but that's just my fearless forecast.

  10. Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    2
    #1090
    Ok thank you sir. 2014 is a long ways away.

    So if I dont have so much of that need for "extra" speed, is the 2.5 still worth it for the extra features in your opinions sirs? It seems the 2.0 is still powerful enough for long drives.

  11. Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    855
    #1091
    *Alone:

    Although I don't have enough experience with the 2.0, there have been posts in here that are quite favorable. On paper, it appears comparable to other SUVs of the same specs, i.e. CRV and Tucson. You might want to schedule a test drive to determine if the 2.0 is the one you really want.

  12. Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    28
    #1092
    Anybody have reports of Forester engine problems? My cousin Forester needs an overhaul/engine replacement due to busted crankshaft bearing. Mileage is 39k only.

    New long block engine is around 250k.

  13. Join Date
    Mar 2010
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    #1093
    Quote Originally Posted by bigfoot View Post
    Anybody have reports of Forester engine problems? My cousin Forester needs an overhaul/engine replacement due to busted crankshaft bearing. Mileage is 39k only.

    New long block engine is around 250k.
    this is the first time i've heard world wide of a subaru needing an overhaul that early. not just subaru i think even other well known car manufacturers never needed an overhaul that early.

  14. Join Date
    Apr 2005
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    28
    #1094
    Quote Originally Posted by foresterx View Post
    this is the first time i've heard world wide of a subaru needing an overhaul that early. not just subaru i think even other well known car manufacturers never needed an overhaul that early.
    Apparently there was a stop sale order on 08/09Forester/legacy/impreza with 2.5L turbo engines, there was an issue on the crankshaft bearings. I'm not sure if this is the same model is question though.

    just google "Subaru Forester Stop Sale"

  15. Join Date
    Mar 2010
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    3,822
    #1095
    Quote Originally Posted by bigfoot View Post
    Apparently there was a stop sale order on 08/09Forester/legacy/impreza with 2.5L turbo engines, there was an issue on the crankshaft bearings. I'm not sure if this is the same model is question though.

    just google "Subaru Forester Stop Sale"
    yup heard about that, but it shouldn't cause for the forester to need an overhaul. anyway get the VIN so you can check the production date if it was affected by that issue.

    here's more info
    Turbo Engine Stop Sale checking Procedure
    On April 7, 2008 we informed you of a stop sale order on 2008 Impreza, STi and Legacy vehicles and 2009 Forester vehicles equipped with 2.5L Turbo Engines and produced with the beginning chassis number/production dates and later as shown below:

    Model Body Type Chassis Number Production Date
    Forester Wagon 701045 or later 2008/01/08 or later
    Legacy 2.5GT-LTD 222825 or later 2008/02/04 or later
    2.5GT-B 222958 or later
    OBK 2.5XT-LTD 353835 or later 2008/02/01 or later
    Impreza Sedan 523363 or later 2008/01/08 or later
    Wagon 825183 or later

    We took this action as a “Customer First” preventive action as we had confirmed, in other markets, that there was a small possibility of an “Engine Knocking Noise” caused by a contamination in the area of the connecting rod big end journal at very low mileage/time in service.

    The action was successful in preventing the potential of failures for our customers.

    Subaru has defined a screening process that you must perform to all of the affected vehicles in your inventory before delivery to a customer or putting in demonstrator service.

    The screening process consists of several steps to inspect the condition of the engine oil to determine if the engine is not affected by the contamination, is already damaged, or has a potential for damage.

    Both a flow chart and detailed instruction sheet of the process are included in this document. Each step must be followed exactly, no short cuts.

    As soon as the engine is determined to be in proper working condition, it can be sold or put into demo service.

    To perform the screening, you will need the following materials for each vehicle:
    • New magnetic Oil Pan Drain Plug (1) (32103KA000 - only this P/N is acceptable)
    • New Oil Drain Plug Gasket (1) (11126AA000)
    • New Oil Filter (1) (15208AA100)
    • Engine Oil 5w30
    • Filter paper (such as a standard automotive funnel type paint filter)
    • Clear plastic “wash bottle” 16oz (500ml), with angled flexible snorkel:

    Please order a plastic wash bottle, 16 ounce (500ml / 500cc), translucent color for observing the color of the oil. The cap and pick-up tube colors are not important for this test. We suggest using the following suppliers and supply houses to locate the plastic wash bottle or equivalent:
    • W.W. Grainger Supply, Inc. - Grainger Industrial Supply
    • Fisher Scientic, Inc. - Fisher Scientific - Welcome
    • Most Medical Supply Locations
    • Most Beauty Supply Locations

    Note: It is important that the opening at the tip of the flexible snorkel be at least 3mm inside diameter in order to properly allow any contamination that may be present in the bottom of the oil pan to pass through into the bottle. It may be necessary to trim the flexible snorkel to obtain the 3mm opening. See picture in flowchart on page 4.

    Detailed Instructions
    You will need to refer to the flow chart provided to follow this written procedure and refer to the photos and graphics for examples.

    Always follow all environmental and hazardous waste handling precautions to prevent any contamination or safety issues.

    Engine Screening Procedure One

    1) Drain the engine oil through the drain plug.

    2) Using the wash bottle, insert the tip of the snorkel through the drain hole, ensuring that the tip is between the bottom of the pick-up screen and the oil pan. Note: The wash bottle can be re-used, but it must be thoroughly cleaned with aqueous parts cleaner and dried. All residual oil, particles and cleaner must be removed to ensure that no false judgments are made.

    3) Siphon the remaining oil and residue from the oil pan as shown in the drawing (approximately 100cc).

    4) Observe the color and clarity of the oil in the wash bottle, and compare it to the examples in the photo found on the flowchart on page 4.
    NOTE: If the wash bottle is not clear, pour the oil and residue into a clear glass container to make a good judgment.

    5) If the oil is clear, the engine is okay.
    A) Replace the oil filter, install a new magnetic Oil Plug and new Oil Plug Gasket, and refill with fresh engine oil.

    Engine Screening Procedure Two

    6) If the oil clarity or color matches the “Needs Check” samples, strain the oil through the filter paper and capture the material residue.
    A)If there are copper particles larger that 1 mm in the material residue, the engine is damaged. Immediately submit an E-QMR and wait for further instructions.
    NOTE: It may be necessary to clean the particles to determine if they are copper. Copper is reddish in color. There may be very small particles of other materials that are typical of a new engine, such as silicon, aluminum and ferrous (steel or magnetic) content, that do not indicate any failure.
    B)If there are no copper particles, or they are smaller than 1 mm, proceed to step 7.

    7) Install a new magnetic Oil Drain Plug, reusing the original gasket and engine oil filter, and refill the engine with fresh oil.

    8)Start the engine and let it idle for five (5) minutes to flush any residue from the oil passages.
    A)Stop the engine, drain the oil, remove and replace the oil filter, clean and reinstall the magnetic drain pug, using the new gasket.
    B)Refill with fresh oil.

    9)Re-start the engine and let it idle for 5 minutes.
    Note: Be sure to allow the Air Pump operation to complete its cycle. It will be difficult to distinguish any engine noise while the pump is operating.
    A)Quickly rev and release the engine to 6,000 rpm at least 10 (ten) times. Caution: Do not exceed 6000 rpm or hold above the red line.
    Note: Be sure to follow the “Reving Procedure” found on the flow chart located on page 4.
    B)Let the engine idle for a few seconds; then increase and decrease the rpm slowly to 2500 rpm, while listening for abnormal lower end engine noise.

    10) If lower end engine noise is evident, immediately stop the engine and submit an E-QMR and wait for further instructions.

    11) If no noise, the engine is okay, and the vehicle can be released for retail sale.

  16. Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    28
    #1096
    On the stop sale, the specific problem is the crankshaft bearing, they used an inferior one. Failure of the bearing will lead to overhaul.

    Subaru Forester Blown Engine | Spun Bearing | Defective | Jackhammer | Blogger Boon

    Those residues they look out for should be a good cause for concern. Not all Subarus owners bring their vehicles to the casa for maintenance. This means if you bring your Subaru to a 3rd party for the regular oil change, and they fail to look for the residues, your engine is just about a goner. This I think what happened to my cousin, he had the change oil done outside.

    After they find the residues, what will they do aside from removing them? The residues will have to come from somewhere inside the engine that's breaking down..

    I'm still verifying his specific model since he is out of town right now.

    Not shouting "wolf", but I think this should be a heads up for Subaru owners.

  17. Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    3,822
    #1097
    yes better check the VIN first if it is really affected by that issue, also better check if that's for all subaru's and not just USDM subaru's. there are other issues kasi that only affect USDM only or EUDM only and the subarus we get are EUDM.

    anyway knowing MI and it's great customer service if your forester was really affected by this issue then they will fix it no matter what.

  18. Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    6,090
    #1098
    Just curious about the durability of the Forester's underside chassis components (ie. suspension, etc..). Does it hold up well with our pot holed metro roads, and unpaved provincial roads?

  19. Join Date
    Mar 2010
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    3,822
    #1099
    Quote Originally Posted by number001 View Post
    Just curious about the durability of the Forester's underside chassis components (ie. suspension, etc..). Does it hold up well with our pot holed metro roads, and unpaved provincial roads?
    yes it will have no problems going through our bumpy roads, it was actually made for that. even subaru cars are made for that not just it's suv's.

  20. Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    28
    #1100
    Quote Originally Posted by foresterx View Post
    yes better check the VIN first if it is really affected by that issue, also better check if that's for all subaru's and not just USDM subaru's. there are other issues kasi that only affect USDM only or EUDM only and the subarus we get are EUDM.

    anyway knowing MI and it's great customer service if your forester was really affected by this issue then they will fix it no matter what.

    After initial denial of the stop sale here in the Philippines by the dealer and being assessed of overhaul or change engine, my cousin initially decided against having it repaired/replace and told the dealer he will just sell the unit.

    After one week, the dealer called up and they will just put it under warranty and replace the engine with a new one. All in all, my cousin paid around Php40k+ (checkup, opening of engine, etc), no more additional charge on the engine replacement I think.

    AFAIK, all Subaru Foresters are made in Japan, at least those sold in US and Phil market. So this stop sale issue still affects the units sold in Philippines.

Subaru Forester