Remote bypass oil filtration

[lawprofile]

If it crosses to the B33 use the BT223 it's a better filter than the b33. 8psi vs 14psi bypass is not a huge difference. If your OEM crosses this than it's probably closest to the factory specs.
.




Descriptions: Full-Flow Lube Spin-on Contains: Anti-Drainback Valve
8 PSID By-Pass Valve Fits: BMW, Chrysler, Dodge, GMC, Saab, Saturn, Suzuki, Toyota Automotive; Bobcat, Cub Cadet, Interceptor, John Deere Equipment Replaces: Chrysler 2647020; Kohler 520-5002; Lister 201-55370; Onan 122-0645; Toyota 15601-13051 Thread: 3/4-16 O.D.: 2 29/32 (73.8) Length: 3 1/2 (88.9) I. Gskt.: G449-B

Descriptions: Full-Flow Lube Spin-on Contains: Anti-Drainback Valve
14 PSID By-Pass Valve Fits: Daihatsu, GMC, Toyota Automotive, Light-Duty Trucks; Generac Generators; John Deere Equipment Replaces: GMC 25161880; John Deere AM107423; Toyota 90915-03001 Thread: 3/4-16 O.D.: 2 11/16 (68.3) Length: 3 (76.2) I. Gskt.: [1] Included UPC: 7 91440 00042 1

Doc, I asked somebody from the US to get me these two for my Innova D4D. I believe they have different dimensions and I'm planning to hoard that which fits perfectly on my ride. The B33 is a dollar more expensive than the BT223. I just don't understand how the latter is better considering it costs less. Btw, I tried to send you a PM but your inbox is full...

[dvldoc]

The BT233 is a better option. If your buddy is in the states he can shoot me a email. I got a bunch of those filters, more than 50 less than 200 of them lol. So I can get you a better deal than any place online by about 50% plus I am running critical on space. They just need paypal.

The BT223 is a bit bigger and has more sq inches of filter media. Both filters have the exact same micon rating as most all Baldwin filters do. The B33 will work but I find it kinda small and you want the biggest filter that you can fit in your vehicle the more media more grams of dirt it will hold.

My box should be cleared out so feel free to PM.

[lawprofile]

The BT233 is a better option. If your buddy is in the states he can shoot me a email. I got a bunch of those filters, more than 50 less than 200 of them lol. So I can get you a better deal than any place online by about 50% plus I am running critical on space. They just need paypal.

The BT223 is a bit bigger and has more sq inches of filter media. Both filters have the exact same micon rating as most all Baldwin filters do. The B33 will work but I find it kinda small and you want the biggest filter that you can fit in your vehicle the more media more grams of dirt it will hold.

My box should be cleared out so feel free to PM.

I read about Fleetguard's Venturi Combos. Is there anything from that line which fits our D4Ds?

[dvldoc]

Funny you mention that, I just ordered a bunch of LF9028 filters which is the Venturi combo filter. The Balwin equivalent is Baldwin BD7317. Decided to replace one of my Full flow filters with this. These remove 4 times the amount of soot over a stratapore media filter alone. But it is a bit overkill for a daily driver.

Here's the deal you need a adaptor to run either one of these filters and you need space for a Length of 7" 1/8 (181.0mm) , I have a remote filter mount kit so it's not a big deal. But I'm not sure if this would fit on the D4D engine due to size.

But here is the adapter you would need and the only place that makes it.

Bypass Engine Oil Filter Converter~1"-16 X 3/4"-16~New | eBay

The other sizes these come in simply just won't fit most vehicles but with this adaptor or using a remote oil filter kit you could run it. You just might find the BD7317 in the Philippines since it's fits many refrigeration units and tractors and Generator sets.

The Baldwin is the second best of the two but no where near the longevity of the fleetguard due to the stacked disk media it has. But it does filter at 5 microns but just does not hold as much dirt/soot. They are both excellent. And to give a comparison.

The BD28 25 microns absolute and 12 microns nominal (single pass = 50%) so it's 50% efficient at 12 microns which is very good.
The B7317 is 50% efficient at 5 microns so you see the difference.

Here they are cut open side by side.



The fleetguard is very unique




But if you have the space for one of these to fit and can get someone state side to get you the adapter then you will have the cleanest oil next to a full blown bypass system which is only 98% or so at 2 microns but very expensive.

You can get 20k to 30K between oil changes with dino CI-4 oil and up to 40k with full synthetic. The B7317 is much cheaper than the fleetguard and the best bang for the money out there if it fits. These two filters are the new favorite of Dodge Cummins truck owners.

But with the D4D your most likely going to need the full remote filter kit like I have but you would only need it for a single filter not two filters like mine which is total overkill it's triple over kill now that I am adding the new Venturi Filter.

[dvldoc]

Here is my 2012 oil rant just a combination of things that I have been researching and reading on oil ratings and the dismal turn of events that have lessened the protection of oils to meet environmental standards.


Due to things like the EPA and other enviromental agencies of countries our automovite oil is providing less and less protection for our engines. Epsecially high performance engines such as DOHC, diesel engines, and older motors designed to run on the proper levels of zinc and phosphorus of their time. Some oils make up for the reduction of zinc and phosphorous with other friction modifiers like moly and boron but some do not and those are the really bad oils.


Looking at API ratings with the 1200 ppm to 1400 ppm of zinc and phosphorous fully formulated CH-4 or CI-4 is what you want to use in most vehicles if you want the best wear protection for your engine.

Understanding the label on the oil is not easy. Oils that are xW-30 and thinner can be rated SN
or SM and must have between 600 ppm and 800 ppm of phosphorous. They could be rated SL and have up to 1000 ppm of phosphorous.

But if there is a CI-4 in front of the SL (CI-4/SL) there is no limit on the amount of phosphorous and zinc,
and a fully formulated CI-4 oil made with synthetic or group II+ base stock will typically only
have about 1350 ppm of zinc and 1200 ppm or so of phosphorous. With a better the base stock,
less additives are required for the same performance, and, the API classification is based on performance, not additive content. If there is a CJ-4 in front of the SN, SM, or SL, it is limited to 1200 ppm of phosphorous.



CJ-4 Oils: The listing of oils as CJ-4/CI-4/CH-4 means they have the reduced additive levels for low sulfur diesel fuel. The makers are allowed to say they replace CI-4 in diesel engines in the United States where the sulfur level has been reduced to 15 ppm.

That does not mean they can replace CI-4 oils in countries where the sulfur level
remains high (15,000 ppm in some to 500 ppm in others like Canada for on road and no limit
for off-road). It is my understanding that Europe is now at 10 ppm.


The question of why CJ-4 can replace CI-4 when the sulfur is below 15 ppm is frequently raised, and it is due to the reduced need to combat the formation of acids and the way the sulfur breaks down the additives in the oil. The development of the CJ-4 oils was not performance driven, but emissions driven. The CJ-4 oils protect the catalytic converters on the latest designs of diesel engines, but the high level of ZDDP in CI-4 oils can, over a period of 300,000 miles or so, damage the catalytic converter, especially if the engine is burning oil or either base oil or the additives used are the cheaper more volatile ones. CJ-4 oils also have to be changed more frequently.

Examples of the Reduced amount of zinc in the new SN oils.
Mobil 1 5W-30 SN: 800 ppm
Mobil 1 Extended Performance 10W-30 SN: 800 ppm

Energy conserving oils
The energy conserving classification in API approved oils checks oils against a known oil to see whether it is more slippery (less friction). This reduction of friction is through reduced viscosity and increased friction modifying additives. Since the friction modifiers or better base oils reduce the dependence on ZDDP, sometimes it can be reduced as well, but it does not have to be. So just because it says “Energy Conserving” does not mean it has reduced levels of ZDDP.

If you want the maximum valve train protection, look for an oil that is certified CH-4/SL or CI-4/SL without CJ-4. If the CH-4 or CI-4 comes before the SL, that is fine. Oils that are only SL certified have much less anti-wear additives.

The SN oils are not the end of the world. They are better than 50 years ago, but not as good for engines as a CI-4 or even a CJ-4. They use ashless antioxidants and better base oils than a lot of other oils. Wholesale price of an SN is about 12% higher than an SL because of this difference. The no-ash antioxidants make up for the phosphorous
reduction in oxidation and the blend of better base oils improve the hydrodynamic cushion, reducing the time the engine is in mixed or boundary lubrication.

If you have been using a low quality oil and move up to a CH-4/SL or CI-4/SL with 3000 ppm to 3200 ppm of detergent, don’t be surprised if it smokes a little for the first 3000 miles or so. It will clean up some of the deposits in the ring grooves and pistons, improving the cooling and ring movement. Once that has burned up the smoking will stop.

Forget the myth that you can’t switch over to synthetics in an older engine. Any formulation on the market today is totally compatible, and the better formulations will not only give you better shear protection and cold weather protection, but will clean up the sludge around the seals, allowing them to be softened to their normal size by the oil.

Forget the myth that synthetics cause leaks. The formulations of decades ago were pure PAO (group IV) that had poor solvency and tended to shrink seals. All of today’s formulations have esters or other ingredients that make them totally compatible with the seals, and the better ones will actually reduce leaking after a couple thousand miles.

Forget the myth that multigrade oils have higher consumption or “oil burning”. The reverse is true. Tests show multigrade oils have up to 30% less consumption than single grades in the same engine.

There is nothing wrong with changing brands or viscosities. They are all compatible. But I recommend finding a brand that you are confident with and sticking with it to receive the full benefits of that formulation.

When changing brands, remember that some of the previous brand remains in the engine. While this is true of all engines, You will not get the full benefits of the new formulation until the 2nd oil change. If every oil change is a different brand, you will never get the full protection.

Be careful of the term “Semi-Synthetic”. There is no standard on its use. It is legal everywhere I know to put 1% of a synthetic oil in the cheapest mineral oil and call it semi-synthetic. I know of one brand that calls their products semi-synthetic because of the synthetic polymers used for viscosity control. Some brands use base oils so poor that they need a percentage of synthetic just to get up to the minimum performance standards.

Bottom line the best oil to use for your vehicle if the other friction modifiers are not know in SN, SM or SL oils is to use CH-4/SL or CI-4/SL rated oils. With this your know your getting a nice healthy dose of friction modifiers for the best possible engine protection.

New studies show that zinc will reduce your converters life about 25% but what's more expensive a new cat or engine repairs it's a flip of a coin on this one.

[zix888]

Nearing 25k pms, makikita na natin yung loob ng baldwin . Nagtanong ako ng wix sa superior motors, walang pang 4d56. Next in line sana yung wix para madissect din natin after use. Anyone who knows kung saan may makuha?

[Ry_Tower]

Baldwin shop is Volmax - I don't have their number right now. I'll give it out on Monday. The shop is on s padilla in Manila.

Wix filters on the other hand is sold Superior Motors 3741737. It is near Quezon Ave.

from what I have researched these are the two consistent high quality filters even in the US

Ito pala distributor ng wix.

Went to MOA yesterday and found out ACE is still selling fake Purolator filters. No country of origin and only plastic is at bottom, very poor print label on the filters as well.

[zix888]

Ito pala distributor ng wix.
.

Called this one up, wala sila pang 4d56

[lawprofile]

Sirs, where can I get a relatively low priced Mobil 1 TDT?

[dvldoc]

Very informative oil testing. Some of these brands you might know well. Some had disappointing results. Having some strong second options about Motul and Shell after this test. Motuls additive package looks good on paper as far as Zinc and Phosphorus but did not perform well at all. I prefer this testing over the 4 ball method many use since the 4 ball was designed for gear oils not engine oils. Timken is for bearings which is more related to engine internals. Royal Purple comes out pretty good in this test.

http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf

[Jiggs]

Wheeww..what a differrence it makes. Clearly it shows that not all good in laboratory specs will translate it in realtime application. Am glad i've been feeding my engines with RP's for years. Question only now is the soundness of those tests..Hope they were not sponsored by Penrite & RP's lol.

[dvldoc]

This was a independent test not for any one product. Unlike Amsoil who I find a little scammy at times because all the test they do are the 4 ball test and they do it all for their marketing. This test was a independent test, You will notice how well the Valvoline Durablend did, which cost about 1/3 or Royal purple, It would be pretty stupid to show a cheaper oil does almost as well as their.

The Timken test is for extreme pressure not engine wear, so don't use this for a end all for your choice of data, but it shows you the need for ZZDP and Phosphorous levels in your oil to be high.

It boils down to the base stock they are using the API rating. Now if they would have tested oils that carry a API rating of CJ-4 / CI-4 / CH-4 or CH-4/SL or CI-4/SL they would have done almost as well as the best on this test. These will have to have 1200ppm to 1600ppm zinc in them.

This test is really showing how the newer API ratings with reduced levels of Zinc and Phosphorous are lowering the protection levels of oil. When I say makes me think different about Motul and Shell it's just the oils in this rating group. They use Group III oil with a weak additive package since they are meeting that API rating and are not making up for the loss in friction additives of ZINC and Phosphorous will Moly and Boron like they should.

A product like Liqui Moly or a High concentrate product like ZZDP plus or ZDDP Max would get these all to pass with flying colors. I would use Motuls and Shells diesel oils and CH-4/SL or CI-4/SL oils as well since they would have the right additive package in them not the watered down EPA regulated level os SM an SL rated oils.

Here are all the oils that were tested and there ratings.


sHELL 5W40 ultra SL/CF

Gulf werstRen 15w-50 SL/CF4

Pennzoil GT SL

Fuchs Titan supersyn SJ/SF

Motul turbolight SL/CF

Motul 0w-40 SJ/CF

Elf Excellium PG 5W-40 SL/CF

Mobil 1 0w-40 SM

Mobil Synth S (API not stated)

Penrite HRP- 5W-40 SM/CF

Redline Synthetic 5W-40 SL/SJ/SH

sHELL HELIX PLUS 15W-50 SL/CF

ELF COMPETITION GT 10W40 SL

Castro Formula R 0w-40 SM/CF

Valvoline Durablen 10W-40 SL/CF (uses a unique mixture of Group III, IV and V base oil stocks) just like Royal purple That's why the results are so good. It makes up for the SL/CF rating.

Royal Purple 10w-40 CF, CF-2/SJ (Mix of differnet group base stocks lots of Zinc and phosporus like good diesel oil.

Roayl purple racing (basically super high zinc and phospourous levels as well no API rating.

Penrite 5w60 (mix of Group III, IV, and V base stocks) API SL/CF ACEA A3/B3/B4

Bottom line use the oil with the best API rating you can find, Just because it's synthetic (Group III) Oil does not mean it will protect your engine better than good old dyno oil with the right API rating. Or go with a oil like Royal Purple which I find a bit overpriced but will give you great protection. But ZIC oil with right ratings will do just as well.

API RATINGS MATTER

[dvldoc]

And to just add a few more points.

Just wanted to show how the Timken test is actually done. Here's a couple of vids of a product call ZDDP MAXX TREATS 5 QUARTS OF OIL AT OVER 1800 PPM PHOSPHORS AND 2500 PPM ZINC. It's not magic just Zinc and Phosporus you really don't need 2500ppm zinc and if you have a 3 stage cat on a newer vehicle you don't want that much because your converters life will be shortened by about 25%. In a gas engine 1100ppm to 1200ppm is what you want. But you will get the point with the videos.


Timken test of Exxon 5w30 conventional oil no additives.MOD - YouTube


with added ZZDP and Phos.

Timken test of Exxon 5w30 conventional oil with ZDDP MAXX oil aditive.MOD - YouTube


But with the availability of oils with the CI-4/SL ratings in the Philippines you don't need it. This is just to show the differnce between oils with less than 900ppm zinc vs ones with over 1200ppm. SM oils can have as low as 650ppm zinc (yikes). If you have a classic muscle car you'll wreck your engine with modern oil due to there flat flat tapper lifters. If you vehicle is older than 1996 without roller lifters newer oils like SM,SL, SN will wreck flat tapper lifters and cams.

Engines with flat-tappet cams have extremely high pressure loading at the contact point between the lifter crown and the cam lobe. Even stock passenger cars can see pressure in excess of 200,000 psi at the point of flat-tappet/camlobe contact." To prevent excess wear, traditional motor oil included generous dose of antiwear additives, primarily zinc dialkyldithiophosphate (ZDDP). "The chemistry is such that the additive is a combination of zinc and phosphorous this has been loss due to new the newer API rated oils especially in larger countries. But regulations have killed this off with the new SM, SL, oils.

Basically if your vehicle or equipment such as farm equiempent or generator set does not have roller lifters and your using SM/SL/SN your not getting the proper protection. You need u need at least CH-4/SL or CI-4/SL or full fledged diesel oil.

API rating is more important than brand name or synthetic, Semi synthetic vs Dino. Most CH-4/SL or CI-4/SL Dino oils will give more protection than a Full synthetic SM oil.

[doy]

Sir dvldoc,

Is this the real thing?

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y209/doy/Photo0544.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y209/doy/Photo0543.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y209/doy/Photo0545.jpg

Sorry for the crappy images. I just used my phone cam. The product is from CDO International here in Cagayan de Oro City, Mindanao. The LF3564 is sold for Php 950.00 while the FF5160 is sold for Php 980.00, order basis (ride is a 2010 Mitsubishi Strada/Triton 2.5 4x2 non-VGT).

[dvldoc]

That LF3313 is real but that does not mean the rest will be.

As long as they have the MADE IN USA or other country of origin by the filter diagram on the filter and are fully wrapped in plastic and have the zulu date code on the top of the filter you know your good to go. So far have not seen a real LF3564 yet. Just check them before you buy them. Lots of places mix the real with other filters that are fake.

But if they happen to have the real deal post them up. But I would ask them to verify before ordering them, because they probably get them from Pacer.

[doy]

That LF3313 is real but that does not mean the rest will be.

As long as they have the MADE IN USA or other country of origin by the filter diagram on the filter and are fully wrapped in plastic and have the zulu date code on the top of the filter you know your good to go. So far have not seen a real LF3564 yet. Just check them before you buy them. Lots of places mix the real with other filters that are fake.

But if they happen to have the real deal post them up. But I would ask them to verify before ordering them, because they probably get them from Pacer.

Copy, sir. If the LF3564 and FF5160 do differ from the LF3313 I posted, I guess it's back to OEM oil and fuel filters for me. OEM oil filter here sells for Php 850.00 but the fuel filter sells for Php 2,500.00. I have no luck yet with finding the Baldwin and Donaldson equivalents here.

[dvldoc]

Remember you can use Fleetguards 360 view of their filters. Cummins Filtration - Catalog - Catalog Map

FF5160
http://www.cumminsfiltration.com/cat...&currentPage=1
LF3564
http://www.cumminsfiltration.com/cat...&currentPage=1

[paj4x4]

Very informative thread dvldoc. I've shifted to Bosch from Vic oil filters for my Gen2.5 Pajero Fieldmaster (4m40). Would you know of the Bosh, Baldwin, or Purolator oil filter equivalent for the 1FZ-FE engine (80 Series Landcruiser) and the 2UZ-FE engine (100 Series Landcruiser)? I currently use Toyota OEM oil filters on these rigs. Thanks.

[tuazon7]

Yes it connects to between the breather hose and intake hose. Diesels don't have PVC valves.

Hi Doc, got a Cusco OCC but have'nt put it in yet. Need to still have the appropriate fittings/hoses/clamps to do so. But just noticed that there seems to be nothing inside it, though just managed to peek on the holes only. Browse the web out of curiosity and seems that most of the known branded OCCs have nothing inside or un-baffled, as they term it. Is this effective, some say yes others say no? Contemplating on having it opened and put some perforated sheet between the two nipples? TIA.

[zix888]

Hi Doc, got a Cusco OCC but have'nt put it in yet. Need to still have the appropriate fittings/hoses/clamps to do so. But just noticed that there seems to be nothing inside it, though just managed to peek on the holes only. Browse the web out of curiosity and seems that most of the known branded OCCs have nothing inside or un-baffled, as they term it. Is this effective, some say yes others say no? Contemplating on having it opened and put some perforated sheet between the two nipples? TIA.

Bro papost nung cusco occ mo, thanks