Here is my 2012 oil rant just a combination of things that I have been researching and reading on oil ratings and the dismal turn of events that have lessened the protection of oils to meet environmental standards.


Due to things like the EPA and other enviromental agencies of countries our automovite oil is providing less and less protection for our engines. Epsecially high performance engines such as DOHC, diesel engines, and older motors designed to run on the proper levels of zinc and phosphorus of their time. Some oils make up for the reduction of zinc and phosphorous with other friction modifiers like moly and boron but some do not and those are the really bad oils.


Looking at API ratings with the 1200 ppm to 1400 ppm of zinc and phosphorous fully formulated CH-4 or CI-4 is what you want to use in most vehicles if you want the best wear protection for your engine.

Understanding the label on the oil is not easy. Oils that are xW-30 and thinner can be rated SN
or SM and must have between 600 ppm and 800 ppm of phosphorous. They could be rated SL and have up to 1000 ppm of phosphorous.

But if there is a CI-4 in front of the SL (CI-4/SL) there is no limit on the amount of phosphorous and zinc,
and a fully formulated CI-4 oil made with synthetic or group II+ base stock will typically only
have about 1350 ppm of zinc and 1200 ppm or so of phosphorous. With a better the base stock,
less additives are required for the same performance, and, the API classification is based on performance, not additive content. If there is a CJ-4 in front of the SN, SM, or SL, it is limited to 1200 ppm of phosphorous.



CJ-4 Oils: The listing of oils as CJ-4/CI-4/CH-4 means they have the reduced additive levels for low sulfur diesel fuel. The makers are allowed to say they replace CI-4 in diesel engines in the United States where the sulfur level has been reduced to 15 ppm.

That does not mean they can replace CI-4 oils in countries where the sulfur level
remains high (15,000 ppm in some to 500 ppm in others like Canada for on road and no limit
for off-road). It is my understanding that Europe is now at 10 ppm.


The question of why CJ-4 can replace CI-4 when the sulfur is below 15 ppm is frequently raised, and it is due to the reduced need to combat the formation of acids and the way the sulfur breaks down the additives in the oil. The development of the CJ-4 oils was not performance driven, but emissions driven. The CJ-4 oils protect the catalytic converters on the latest designs of diesel engines, but the high level of ZDDP in CI-4 oils can, over a period of 300,000 miles or so, damage the catalytic converter, especially if the engine is burning oil or either base oil or the additives used are the cheaper more volatile ones. CJ-4 oils also have to be changed more frequently.

Examples of the Reduced amount of zinc in the new SN oils.
Mobil 1 5W-30 SN: 800 ppm
Mobil 1 Extended Performance 10W-30 SN: 800 ppm

Energy conserving oils
The energy conserving classification in API approved oils checks oils against a known oil to see whether it is more slippery (less friction). This reduction of friction is through reduced viscosity and increased friction modifying additives. Since the friction modifiers or better base oils reduce the dependence on ZDDP, sometimes it can be reduced as well, but it does not have to be. So just because it says “Energy Conserving” does not mean it has reduced levels of ZDDP.

If you want the maximum valve train protection, look for an oil that is certified CH-4/SL or CI-4/SL without CJ-4. If the CH-4 or CI-4 comes before the SL, that is fine. Oils that are only SL certified have much less anti-wear additives.

The SN oils are not the end of the world. They are better than 50 years ago, but not as good for engines as a CI-4 or even a CJ-4. They use ashless antioxidants and better base oils than a lot of other oils. Wholesale price of an SN is about 12% higher than an SL because of this difference. The no-ash antioxidants make up for the phosphorous
reduction in oxidation and the blend of better base oils improve the hydrodynamic cushion, reducing the time the engine is in mixed or boundary lubrication.

If you have been using a low quality oil and move up to a CH-4/SL or CI-4/SL with 3000 ppm to 3200 ppm of detergent, don’t be surprised if it smokes a little for the first 3000 miles or so. It will clean up some of the deposits in the ring grooves and pistons, improving the cooling and ring movement. Once that has burned up the smoking will stop.

Forget the myth that you can’t switch over to synthetics in an older engine. Any formulation on the market today is totally compatible, and the better formulations will not only give you better shear protection and cold weather protection, but will clean up the sludge around the seals, allowing them to be softened to their normal size by the oil.

Forget the myth that synthetics cause leaks. The formulations of decades ago were pure PAO (group IV) that had poor solvency and tended to shrink seals. All of today’s formulations have esters or other ingredients that make them totally compatible with the seals, and the better ones will actually reduce leaking after a couple thousand miles.

Forget the myth that multigrade oils have higher consumption or “oil burning”. The reverse is true. Tests show multigrade oils have up to 30% less consumption than single grades in the same engine.

There is nothing wrong with changing brands or viscosities. They are all compatible. But I recommend finding a brand that you are confident with and sticking with it to receive the full benefits of that formulation.

When changing brands, remember that some of the previous brand remains in the engine. While this is true of all engines, You will not get the full benefits of the new formulation until the 2nd oil change. If every oil change is a different brand, you will never get the full protection.

Be careful of the term “Semi-Synthetic”. There is no standard on its use. It is legal everywhere I know to put 1% of a synthetic oil in the cheapest mineral oil and call it semi-synthetic. I know of one brand that calls their products semi-synthetic because of the synthetic polymers used for viscosity control. Some brands use base oils so poor that they need a percentage of synthetic just to get up to the minimum performance standards.

Bottom line the best oil to use for your vehicle if the other friction modifiers are not know in SN, SM or SL oils is to use CH-4/SL or CI-4/SL rated oils. With this your know your getting a nice healthy dose of friction modifiers for the best possible engine protection.

New studies show that zinc will reduce your converters life about 25% but what's more expensive a new cat or engine repairs it's a flip of a coin on this one.