dami purolator sa market. may fake na ba?
saan kaya makakabili original purolator filter for a vios? magkano kaya ito?
dami purolator sa market. may fake na ba?
saan kaya makakabili original purolator filter for a vios? magkano kaya ito?
thanks! curiously, pano malalaman ang orig na purolator sa fake? fleetguard ang madalas ko nababasa eh
Unfortunately there are a lot of fake purolators filters there, they are actually china clones which is a bad thing. Don't expect them to filter any better than a vic and have all the same potential issues of any fake filter.
Post a pic of the box and the filter if you can. One thing to look for is the country of origin on the filter. It should say made in XXXX. They make it in several other countries.
dvldoc, thanks for the tip. i will keep that in mind. will try to get a picture too
By the way Purolator makes Bosch filters , Purolator Filters NA LLC is a joint venture company of the Bosch Group and Mann+Hummel Group.
What out for this china fake, they even spell it different. They make fuel and oil filters.
Real
Purolator filter have 8 medium-sized holes for the oil inlet and nothing but a black (or orange for the Pure One) diaphragm to be seen through them. There are 6 large crimps holding the gasket in place. Through the center outlet hole, you can see the spring for the bypass valve.
It's a shame you have to but always check before you buy.
Real.
I hope it would always be this easy to spot a fake :D
Another matter I bought a baldwin that was color black and it was made in Japan. I checked the baldwin site and indeed that particular filter is color black. I checked the bottom of the filter and it did have like a dotmatrix print that it was baldwin and place of manufacture plus a code. Too bad I had it installed before I could take a picture of it.
Baldwins are easy they hate counterfeit guys.
http://www.baldwinfilter.com/literat...res/form30.pdf
Thanks for this dvldoc. I will be buying from volmax by next month some filters and would post the filter here. I was talking to the guy from the shop and he said they have a couple of container vans that came in and that is not yet their complete order. Their restock and new stock would be ready by mid July![]()
Hi Doc,
My rig is a 98 4x4 HiLux with a 3L, 2.8 liter diesel engine. I usually run factory filters on him but ran Vic when necessary. I found a service place that uses Purolator from Australia so I'm reckoning that this is good, I'll compare prices with the factory filter and K&N to see which is the better buy. I change out oil and filter every 5,000 KMs (funny thing that the manual says you can change the factory filter every 10,000KMs) I usually use Rimula X Black 15w-40 though when I move to the aforementioned place, I'll most likely be using their stock which should be Mobil Delvac 15W-40.
I ditched my K&N air filters and I can see that my decision was correct, they really don't filter properly and that they're a pain in the *$$ to clean and re-oil. Berrima doesn't recommend them either. Know of any air filters better than factory?I can't use a cone-type filter as I've got a snorkel on and the filter box has to stay on for that to work.
Speaking of Berrima, they are offering me a certain type of fuel filter with the glass bottom and you can change out the element in the middle every 5,000 KMs (their recommendation) as the local fuel quality sucks. Do you know this filter? Any good? Thinking of buying it when I get my turbo installed together with my dyno work.
I'll try the cross reference sites you posted and hopefully I can check around for my alternative filter sources.
Stay safe and see you soon. Remember, when in doubt, empty the magazine!![]()
They use the Delphi 2 micron fuel / water separator it's meant to be a secondary filter. It will keep your fuel seriously clean. But you can also just go with a baldwin direct replacement which are 10 microns but still around 5% efficient at 5 microns and will give you less restriction in your fuel system.
Baldwin makes some of the best filters since most are microlite filter media, about 80% of there oil filters are and pretty much all automotive direct replacements are that's a 98% Efficient * 12 microns compared to a VIC which is a only 87% efficient at 40 microns (pretty much worthless for protecting your engine for major wear) Almost no protection
The majority of filters are only 95% to 98% efficient * 40 microns since that is the industry standard for OEM. They don't really strive to be any better. Purolator is only 97% * 40 microns.
Most paper air filters are the same, Fram actually makes good air filters their oil filters are worthless junk but the air filters are good. OEM is also perfectly fine.
Most Fleetguards are 96% efficient at 20 microns on their cellulose media, there microglass and stratapore are 5 microns. Wix are also all around 20 microns filters wich do a good job down to 5 microns.
But Baldwin are almost all microlite (cellulose mixed with microglass) with 12 microns rating and filter down to 5 pretty dang well.
Can't go wrong with Fleetguard or Baldwin. They also hold about 4 times more particles before they can get clogged and go into the bypass mode.
My car doesn't have this spin-on type oil filter adapter. Is it still possible to install a remote bypass oil filter system on my car? Mine's a Hyundai Accent CRDI
Unfortunately you can't adapt the spin on adapter with a cartridge filter in most vehilces. The majorities of the adapters are for big block chevy engines. You would have to find something that would fit your thread pattern but, locally probably not a chance of finding one. Try to just cross reference your filter with a high quality one.
Part number should be OEM 26320-2A001
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there have been a misleading terminology or confusion over this thread. the bypass component is inside the cartridge spin on type oil filter. the bypass allows dirty oil to lubricate the engine once the filter element gets fully clogged up or if the engine demand for the oil is more than the filter could allow. since the 1950's, the lubrication system evolved from the drip type to splash type to the forced type with "catch-as-can type" filtration to the forced full flow filtration. all the oil going into the oil galleries must flow from the pump to the full flow filter save the ones coming out of the bypass. the system that have been mentioned over and over throughout this thread is not bypass type or system but a remotely mounted oil filter mounting or location for ease of service.
It has been discussed already that Remote Bypass Filtration is a different thing from bypass-valve.
Bypass valve in some cases are built-in the vehicle's spin-on adapter, but most are integrated in the oil filter.
My system for my vehicle is a bypass set up, I have a restrictor in the threaded nipple that reduces flow to the second filter so it does not recieve full flow just like the amsoil set up.
I basically copied the system from a guy who posted how to do a budget set up, Not paying 300USD for a amsoil kit.
Basic set up
Dual filter remote oil filter kit
Modified filter nipple (3/4-16 1-1/4" long with 1/16" orifice)
So I have one full flow and one partial flow filter. My partial flow is the Fleetguard Stratapore media the best filtration you can get period and a high efficiency synthetic media filter.
The nipple modification consists of:
- tapping the ID of one of the supplied nipples with a 1/2-20
- take a 1/2-20 steel bolt and thread ~1/2" of it into the nipple
- saw off the part of the bolt sticking out of the nipple
- cut a groove across the face of the bolt sticking out of the nipple
- drill a 1/16" hole through the center of the bolt
- using a blade screwdriver, turn the bolt until it is just below the lip of the nipple
- tig the bolt piece in place (carefully)
- this is the nipple that you will install the by-pass filter onto.
So mine is a true bypass system not just a dual remote filter set up, which by the way works very well if you use the same set up I have even without the bypass mod. And will extend your oil change intervals big time. There is more than just one way to make these set up's You can also do this with a single filter using a oil cooler. Amsoil is way overpriced and you can make your own for far cheaper.
This is the set up I copied to a T, except I used way better filters.
This thread started out as one thing but has spread to basically be a very good discussion on filtration in general. And I think one of the most helpfull threads for routine maintenance for vehicles.
We have covered the parts of a filter in detail including the bypass valve, filter media's, levels of filtration and efficeincy as well ass fuel filtration and even air filters. It's kind of a jack of all trades thread on filtration. And one of the biggies, FAKES and there are plenty in the Philippines.
The thread should be changed to Bypass filters, Oil filters, fuel filters and air filters![]()
Just to add, the setup above is the same with this. Return line going to sump is the same as the intake of the spin-on adapter.
[SIZE=2]And just to add more readings to clarify things (from cummins pdf)[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]Diesel Engines generally use one of two types of lube filtration systems:[/SIZE][SIZE=3]A Bypassor Part Flowsystem[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]A Full Flowsystem[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3] [/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]A Full Flow system works the way it sounds. The entire flow of the fluid (oil, fuel, etc.) passes through the filter on its way to the engine[/SIZE][SIZE=3]Full Flow systems are common in lube, fuel, and air systems[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3] [/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]In lube systems, the full flow filter is by necessity an open filter[/SIZE][SIZE=3]Used to control larger particles, the full flow filter cleans all of the oil going to the engine[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]The full flow filter cannot restrict oil flow[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3] [/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]A bypass or part flow system has a different flow path than a full flow[/SIZE][SIZE=3]That oil is passed through a filter and then returns to the sump[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]In a bypass system, a small amount of flow, usually controlled by an orifice, is taken from the main flow stream[/SIZE]
[SIZE=3] [/SIZE]
[SIZE=3]Due to the lower flow of a bypass system, a bypass filter can remove smaller particles[/SIZE][SIZE=3]Bypass systems are common in cooling systems or in conjunction with a full flow filter in lube systems[/SIZE]
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Hi, after reading through this thread, decided to try fleetguard filters. Bought some today at Prudential Intertrade at east service road, bicutan paranaque. An LF3462 for my mazda 323 1.3li and supposedly a LF3403 full flow and LF3523 bypass for the R2 2.2li. diesel engine rocsta jeep.The guy gave me a donaldson P550162, said it was the replacement for the 3403, but the LF3523 bypass they had made me doubt its authenticity, it had only the filter mouth covered with plastic, no "made in u.s.a" mark, and the fleetguard name in red not black, decided not to get it. The LF3462 was P260. and the donaldson P550162 was P225.
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