Nissan Frontier Navara [continued]

[12vdc]

guys, can anyone recommend a shop that can do the regular engine , maintenance and repair? change fluids, replace pads, etc. etc. am just looking at other options as my navara is racking up the mileage.

thanks in advance

Any servitek can do that.. If only i have more time, im willing to trade for a cold beer

If you are a DIY guy like me - Brake pads/shoe, drive belt, filters replacement/cleaning/ fluid change - those are maintenance job that can be done with basic tools, and im sure even if its not easy for some, you will have this nice feeling after giving personal touch with TLC to your nav..

[vj2k6]

Hi mga sirs. I am a nissan navara owner, have you ever encountered "low power" problems? My navara has been in our garage parked for days nawawala kasi yung power and to think its oils had been newly changed including filters and etc. I asked my dealer about this problem and they said e-recalibrate daw nila ang injector pump or changed it into new one (which cost much). Have you encountered this type of problem in your navs? it has been causing headache and pabalik siyang nag lo-low power.

[AKI125]

Lets go first to some simplier cause of that low power

Check your intake hose, the one acter the air filter box. Check if the hose is still rounded in shape, if not remove the filter box and insert your hand into the hose to pop it again and return the air filter box properly. Best remedy for this is to chage your existing OEM filter to an after market drop in fikter the likes of k&n or hurricane.

Whats the mileage of your truck? Perhaps your return tube where your egr is located is already clogged up. Clean the tube by removing it first and if possible block the passage by making an aluminum spacer in between the connection.

Dirty primary and secondary fuel filter can cause low power issue too. Worst is you need to pull down and drain your tank gas to check the quality of the fuel inside the tank.

[vj2k6]

Lets go first to some simplier cause of that low power

Check your intake hose, the one acter the air filter box. Check if the hose is still rounded in shape, if not remove the filter box and insert your hand into the hose to pop it again and return the air filter box properly. Best remedy for this is to chage your existing OEM filter to an after market drop in fikter the likes of k&n or hurricane.

Whats the mileage of your truck? Perhaps your return tube where your egr is located is already clogged up. Clean the tube by removing it first and if possible block the passage by making an aluminum spacer in between the connection.

Dirty primary and secondary fuel filter can cause low power issue too. Worst is you need to pull down and drain your tank gas to check the quality of the fuel inside the tank.

mileage is at 123619.

[OJ213]

Hi sir, its been a while how is the weather down south IN CDO ?? just like Aki said check your air filter and hoses first, since your road condition there is not that all good your filtering is somehow in peril, adjusting or recalibrating your injectors would be my last option

i made a list before sa NCP site as a reminder for those who had LIMP MODE issues:

1.AIR FILTER
2.SENSORS - MAF / BOOST/ FUEL PRESSURE /AIR FLOW - better spray this with a contact cleaner, surprised gaano kadumi mga terminal nito.

3.SUCTION CONTROL VALVE /HOSES- make sure to check all vacuum hoses that leads from the Boost Solenoid to the turbo for leaks

4.FUEL PUMP/ QUANTITY CONTROL VALVE - BETTER HAVE THIS CHECKED ALSO

5.FUEL PRESSURE SENSOR

6. PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE

7. HOSE - CHECK ALL HOSES FOR LEAKS, if you see some oil residue on the end part of the hoses it means may tagas yun and you need to replace the clamps or re fit the hose properly.

8.- TURBO - if cold enough you can perform the checking yourself, detach mo lang yung intake and galawin mo yung shaft, move it up and down, left to right,pull and push dapat very minimal play( forward -backward /left - right)


9.GROUNDING WIRES - minsan we neglect to check this , madami ito sa ilalim ng air box, stranded wires na naka dikit sa body ng navara and yung sa negative ng battery meron din isa doon

10. Intercooler- once in a while dapat itong linisin from oil deposits and dirt na naiipon dito, a good degrease will do with pressure washer and blower, just make sure tuyo na siya before niyo ibalik mga hose.

AND ALSO YOPU CAN TRY RESETTING YOUR ECU:

Resetting ECU and FUEL pump MAY help in cutting down on that horrible tapping noise that the D40 suffers from.
carry out this reset and the engine is alot smoother, more responsive, less smokey and alot less tappy.

To carry out the reset carry out the following

Turn ingnition on so all dash lights come on.

Wait 3 seconds

PUMP accelerator pedel 5 times within 5 seconds....

with foot now OFF accelerator wait 7 seconds...

After 7 seconds press and hold down accelerator pedel for 10 seconds...

Atfer 10 seconds the Engine Managment Light will start to flash, at this point remove foot from accelerator.

the Nav is now in diag mode, so let the EML flash for a bit. the press and hold the acclerator pedel down for more than 10 seconds..this will then reset ECU and fuel pump etc......and put them into learning mode.

NOTE: When the EML light is flashing, this is listing possible fault codes... so if you know how to read the fault codes or know the sequences then you can figure out any possible faults with your Nav with out getting the dealer to do it!!


attention to all those who have race chips installed, alisin niyo muna

[vj2k6]

Hi sir, its been a while how is the weather down south IN CDO ?? just like Aki said check your air filter and hoses first, since your road condition there is not that all good your filtering is somehow in peril, adjusting or recalibrating your injectors would be my last option

i made a list before sa NCP site as a reminder for those who had LIMP MODE issues:

1.AIR FILTER
2.SENSORS - MAF / BOOST/ FUEL PRESSURE /AIR FLOW - better spray this with a contact cleaner, surprised gaano kadumi mga terminal nito.

3.SUCTION CONTROL VALVE /HOSES- make sure to check all vacuum hoses that leads from the Boost Solenoid to the turbo for leaks

4.FUEL PUMP/ QUANTITY CONTROL VALVE - BETTER HAVE THIS CHECKED ALSO

5.FUEL PRESSURE SENSOR

6. PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE

7. HOSE - CHECK ALL HOSES FOR LEAKS, if you see some oil residue on the end part of the hoses it means may tagas yun and you need to replace the clamps or re fit the hose properly.

8.- TURBO - if cold enough you can perform the checking yourself, detach mo lang yung intake and galawin mo yung shaft, move it up and down, left to right,pull and push dapat very minimal play( forward -backward /left - right)


9.GROUNDING WIRES - minsan we neglect to check this , madami ito sa ilalim ng air box, stranded wires na naka dikit sa body ng navara and yung sa negative ng battery meron din isa doon

10. Intercooler- once in a while dapat itong linisin from oil deposits and dirt na naiipon dito, a good degrease will do with pressure washer and blower, just make sure tuyo na siya before niyo ibalik mga hose.

AND ALSO YOPU CAN TRY RESETTING YOUR ECU:

Resetting ECU and FUEL pump MAY help in cutting down on that horrible tapping noise that the D40 suffers from.
carry out this reset and the engine is alot smoother, more responsive, less smokey and alot less tappy.

To carry out the reset carry out the following

Turn ingnition on so all dash lights come on.

Wait 3 seconds

PUMP accelerator pedel 5 times within 5 seconds....

with foot now OFF accelerator wait 7 seconds...

After 7 seconds press and hold down accelerator pedel for 10 seconds...

Atfer 10 seconds the Engine Managment Light will start to flash, at this point remove foot from accelerator.

the Nav is now in diag mode, so let the EML flash for a bit. the press and hold the acclerator pedel down for more than 10 seconds..this will then reset ECU and fuel pump etc......and put them into learning mode.

NOTE: When the EML light is flashing, this is listing possible fault codes... so if you know how to read the fault codes or know the sequences then you can figure out any possible faults with your Nav with out getting the dealer to do it!!


attention to all those who have race chips installed, alisin niyo muna

Hi Sir, thanks. I'll consider your advices and let's see if it goes well.Thank you.

[rpfronty]

12vdl,

stripped two nuts also (one on each side) when we changed coilovers, from stock pa yung when the nav was about 6 months old, parang sa planta pa lang sobra na higpit.

thanks for the update about the mounts, ill take a look at it too. right side ba pinalitan mo or both?

[rpfronty]

sir 12vdc,
do you have to lift the cab slightly to get the mounts off after unscrewing the bolt? parang mahaba yung metal sleeve nung insulator/ mounts....

[12vdc]

*rpronty: nuts edge were semi rounded, indication that it was overtorqued or wrong angle of tool that cam-out leaving damage to the nut-head.
I think it gave me just 1 cm lift but not really sure if its because of the new body mounts or the new struts.

before


after


Re: Body mount - Better inspect it first, remove the buttom nut and you can see if the rubber is damaged.

I changed both front (both have damage/ rusted sleeve, severed rubbers)

You need to remove both front mount nuts then loosen a bit the 2nd mounts located near the tip of running boards.

Lift the cab just enough clearance to remove the mount (I used a dos-por-dos wood and bottle jack to lift the cab)

You can opt not to if you have a good lifter, but I removed the fender liners to get a clear view and leverage for the tools.

[12vdc]

BTW, body mount has paint on it, you should install it the same orientation of the original w/c is facing outwards. I dont know what's on the paint code, but didnt noticed any difference in the height, heres the PN# i got:

OE PN# 95510-JR00A (yellow paint)
Replacement# 95510-JR00B (blue paint)

Torque it to 88N.m, overdoing it could damage the rubber and make a noise.

[vj2k6]

Hi Sir, thanks. I'll consider your advices and let's see if it goes well.Thank you.

*OJ- Sir i cant reset my ECU, i have followed all instructions bellow but still it doesnt work. Hindi na siya nag lo-low power pero namamatay siya bigla. I had my PMS last week nawawala ang supply ng fuel.

[79ljb]

Hi sir vj2k6, namamatay po ba nav nyo habang umaandar kayo or pag start nyo ng engine namamatay agad?

[jun2]

sir the same tayo ng problem with my navara ganyan din nawawala ang power before mag 3 rpm and then grabe ang usok if itodo mo ung gas.. recomend sakin ng mechanic ko is to block ung egr baka marumi na kasi...

[12vdc]

Have anyone try to put blanking plate on the EGR of your navara? what are the cons and pros.. regards.

M/T? check my EGR mod
http://tsikot.com/forums/nissan-cars.../index124.html

Loss of power: isolate nyo muna yung fuel system, baka may hangin. Kung bago palit ng filter, make sure properly bleed ang secondary fitler.
I only experienced loss of power once when my OE battery is almost at 11V and im accelerating from full stop around 700-1k rpm.

Re: usok, normal yan kung isasagad mo accelerator lalo nat naka turbo at hindi mo naflush ang exhaust. Regular flushing ang gawa ko and paminsan minsan isagad nyo ang accelerator para natatangal carbon deposits. Other isolation procedure includes air filter, scv as already stated by Sir Aki & OJ.

*rpfronty, ygpm. update us if it has been fixed.

[12vdc]

Have anyone try to put blanking plate on the EGR of your navara? what are the cons and pros.. regards.

M/T? check my EGR mod
http:///tsikot.com/forums/nissan-car.../index124.html (remove 1 forward slash, links are being moderated daw..)

Loss of power: isolate nyo muna yung fuel system, baka may hangin. Kung bago palit ng filter, make sure properly bleed ang secondary fitler.
I only experienced loss of power once when my OE battery is almost at 11V and im accelerating from full stop around 700-1k rpm.

Re: usok, normal yan kung isasagad mo accelerator lalo nat naka turbo at hindi mo naflush ang exhaust. Regular flushing ang gawa ko and paminsan minsan isagad nyo ang accelerator para natatangal carbon deposits. Other isolation procedure includes air filter, scv as already stated by Sir Aki & OJ.

*rpfronty, ygpm. update us if it has been fixed.

[79ljb]

Mga sir may mairerecommend po ba kayong shop na nakapaglinis na nang gas tank ng nav? Pag nag below half tank po kasi laman ng gas tank ko, ayaw tumakbo, at minsan namamatay pa pagchange gear to second gear, pero pag ng full tank ako ok na ulit takbo nya. TIA

[12vdc]

Mga sir may mairerecommend po ba kayong shop na nakapaglinis na nang gas tank ng nav? Pag nag below half tank po kasi laman ng gas tank ko, ayaw tumakbo, at minsan namamatay pa pagchange gear to second gear, pero pag ng full tank ako ok na ulit takbo nya. TIA

Any shop could do that.. Maybe sending unit problem?

[12vdc]

Ako naman ang magtatanong..hehe

Anyone experienced idler pulley, waterpump, or aircon bearing noise?
Anyone had the same scenario and eliminated the noise successfully after pulley/ pulley bearing replacement?

Here's the symptom:
Intermittent chirp sound lasts on the first 3 seconds when the engine is started. When engine is hot, no chirp..

So i tried to initially isolate moving parts:
- removed PS pulley from the crank, noise still there
- so im left with upper-idler pulley, waterpump, aircon
- alternator not included since it has just been replaced, no water breach when inspected. Belts are new.
- tried cleaning and re-greasing upper idler pulley with tacky bearing grease(pulley has 2 sandwich bearings), tensioned back belt.. noise still there.
- what i've observed with the pulley's outer bearing has some inconsistent grainy feel but i couldnt replicate the noise while spinning it in my fingers. Inner bearing is OK.

Now here's my dilemma,

- its easy forme to replace the bearing since i have bearing press, but what if i replace the bearing and noise still there..
- OEM bearing (need 2pcs) part number can nowhere to be found - its NSK 6301DULX
- tried going to bearing shops and they crossed me to sealed type 6301 either DD/ 2RSH/LLU/ LL but im kinda doubtful since DULX might be some special type of overriding bearing..
- if im going to pull-out the old bearings, its an irreversible process since i will be putting a destructive force to the balls and race.
- pulley assy cost P4250, replacement sealed-type cost less than P100..

So guys, do you think its OK to replace just the bearings of unknown specs, anyone with experience on bearing replacements?
My idea here is DIY maintenance, but purpose of DIY is to minimise the cost while maintaining the quality or improve durability.

I know im getting OC, but i dont like a birdie chirping under the hood every mornings.

[12vdc]

BTW here's the pulley pics..



Both are NSK 6301 DULX, PS pulley one piece, upper idler got 2pieces sandwich.

[12vdc]

Share kona rin some cheap DIY maintenance - hood stay clip replacement.

Broke one side, plastic got brittle since i always open the hood its a 5yrs old car..


Replacement cost P30, OE would cost maybe some hundreds or more.