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  1. Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    411
    #1801
    Quote Originally Posted by 12vdc View Post
    Sir OJ, noob question about lift.. Where do you install those T6 alum blocks?
    sir, that would be the culprit for the "thomp/thug " sound, what casa did was cut the bolt for the body mount to enable the washer/rubber to flatten out and elimanate steel to body contact, I had mine done last year and will check again if the rubber needs replacing ,

    the body lift 12pcs. in total will be mounted on the 12 mounting points of the body and the chassis sir

  2. Join Date
    Nov 2009
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    3,522
    #1802
    Quote Originally Posted by OJ213 View Post
    sir, that would be the culprit for the "thomp/thug " sound, what casa did was cut the bolt for the body mount to enable the washer/rubber to flatten out and elimanate steel to body contact, I had mine done last year and will check again if the rubber needs replacing
    Rubber of left mount seems busted(see the clearance), sound happens only when i hit a hole on the left wheel so that must be it. I checked the bolt torque and found normal within 88Nm.

    The Right seems OK but im planning to replace it as MAW-might as well, to level the front.


    the body lift 12pcs. in total will be mounted on the 12 mounting points of the body and the chassis sir
    Hmmm.. So basically thats how you body-lift this thing? Drill a hole in the center of alum blocks and insert it in that body mount using 1" longer bolt? Manual says only 8 body mounts on crew cab?


    Reason i asked because im thinking of replacing the body mount myself, and maybe DIY lift since i will be loosening also all the body mounts to make way for the replacement..

  3. Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    411
    #1803
    it has mounting points on the cross member on top of the bed
    Last edited by OJ213; October 17th, 2012 at 10:00 AM.

  4. Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    191
    #1804
    Quote Originally Posted by OJ213 View Post
    yes po, aluminum is more durable and rust proof compared sa ordinary steel, since body lift ito, your current suspension set up will remain as is, even if you are still using OEM shocks, I installed on my nav first before ko i offer , so far, there is still noticable improvement sa ride eventhough i have a 3 inch lift na,plus the 1 inch body lift, and the steering wheel is much comfortable now even with bigger tires, Pm me if you are interested, MONSTERWORX in Las Pinas will do the installation (approx 2 days) is a Partner shop of Navara Club

    just for comparison, beside a GLx Strada



    pls pm me total price. i have 4x2 is that ok?

  5. Join Date
    Nov 2009
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    3,522
    #1805
    Quote Originally Posted by OJ213 View Post
    it has mounting points on the cross member on top of the bed
    Yup, i noticed the manual is for cab and chassis only. Bed was not part of the diagram.

    Part has arrived.

    But im still having second thoughts to lift or not to lift. Im tempted coz i know its easy and those alum blocks and bolts are readily availalble in the shop nearby.. I dont want to compromise the sideways agility thou..hmmm

  6. Join Date
    Aug 2009
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    411
    #1806
    Quote Originally Posted by 12vdc View Post
    Yup, i noticed the manual is for cab and chassis only. Bed was not part of the diagram.

    Part has arrived.

    But im still having second thoughts to lift or not to lift. Im tempted coz i know its easy and those alum blocks and bolts are readily availalble in the shop nearby.. I dont want to compromise the sideways agility thou..hmmm
    I can't speak for stock set up in terms of body roll after, but for me no noticable sway or anything since the body lift, anyway it's just an inch more added to the sturdy body of the Navara which with its present ground clearance imho body roll wouldn't be an issue

  7. Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    93
    #1807
    12vdc, i think i have that thumping sound too but on the right front side. i never suspected the body mounts because of the suspension mods ive done, thought it was the culprit and just accepted the thumping sound. hindi naman malakas so i just let it be. how did you isolate it ? is there movement between the chassis and the cab? where did you order the parts?

    btw, anyone know where i can get a brand new alternator? my alternator pulley got stucked up, somehow it fell off. in the process it stripped the thread of the alternator shaft ( the part where the pulley connects to the alternator) so now i have to replace the whole alternator instead of just the pulley because the thread of the alternator shaft cant be repaired. darn thing cost 60k!

    weird thing though, the pulley broke along c5 right accross nissan gallery !!!

  8. Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    3,522
    #1808
    Quote Originally Posted by OJ213 View Post
    I can't speak for stock set up in terms of body roll after, but for me no noticable sway or anything since the body lift, anyway it's just an inch more added to the sturdy body of the Navara which with its present ground clearance imho body roll wouldn't be an issue
    Thanks for the input, I'L consider that in my next project(body and susp lift).. but maybe next time coz i found another part that needs to be replaced...

    Tada..



    FR shocks thats about to fail, noticed while i was replacing the noisy PS drive belt..


    Can't wait till December for Nitrocharger Sports (inubos daw ng NCP) so i settled with ordinary.



    Additional man-hours for me replacing parts with my own hands, be installing maybe next week.

  9. Join Date
    Nov 2009
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    3,522
    #1809
    *rpfronty

    Could'nt think of other source (shocks, engine supports, and hood were already isolated), so the gap between chassis and bodymount is a giveaway. Have you replaced the UCA, maybe yours is a coilbucket contact?

    Re: pulley - OAP usually squeals when it's about to fail. Charging voltage also drops due to clutch slip inside pulley. Wonder why yours got stripped, but that OE pulley is really a b!tch a total design failure because of exposed bearing. Goodluck finding replacement, i think there's shop in Caloocan and two in Binondo that i frequently passby specializing on starters and alternators. OE is 100A, if not upgrade na yan to higher amperage..

  10. Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    93
    #1810
    Quote Originally Posted by 12vdc View Post
    *rpfronty

    Could'nt think of other source (shocks, engine supports, and hood were already isolated), so the gap between chassis and bodymount is a giveaway. Have you replaced the UCA, maybe yours is a coilbucket contact?

    Re: pulley - OAP usually squeals when it's about to fail. Charging voltage also drops due to clutch slip inside pulley. Wonder why yours got stripped, but that OE pulley is really a b!tch a total design failure because of exposed bearing. Goodluck finding replacement, i think there's shop in Caloocan and two in Binondo that i frequently passby specializing on starters and alternators. OE is 100A, if not upgrade na yan to higher amperage..
    12vdc,
    thanks for the reply.

    im sure its not coil bucket contact as i have replaced the UCA with aftermarket ones. ill probably check the body mounts ones i have sorted out the alternator. can you let us know if the thumps go away after you replace the body mounts? how much did the mounts cost?

    it would squeal in the morning after a few days of not using it then would go away after about 30 secs. i had the serp belt replaced 2 or 3 months ago and the noise went away so i thought it was the belt. i hope the new pulleys with be better, a parts store in banawe said that madalas daw palitan yung alternator pulley na yan. anyway thanks for the heads up, ill try looking for other sources for parts before i bite the bullet.

  11. Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    93
    #1811
    Quote Originally Posted by 12vdc View Post
    Thanks for the input, I'L consider that in my next project(body and susp lift).. but maybe next time coz i found another part that needs to be replaced...

    Tada..



    FR shocks thats about to fail, noticed while i was replacing the noisy PS drive belt..


    Can't wait till December for Nitrocharger Sports (inubos daw ng NCP) so i settled with ordinary.



    Additional man-hours for me replacing parts with my own hands, be installing maybe next week.
    i have a pair of light duty ome 607 coils for the navara, shipped from the states (4x4parts.com) last year, unused, selling for 7k for the pair... will give a 1.5inch lift according to website. pm me if interested...
    Last edited by rpfronty; October 18th, 2012 at 11:17 PM. Reason: spelling

  12. Join Date
    Nov 2009
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    3,522
    #1812
    ^ Yup, i'L update the results.. Got it for P1650 ea.

    I've gone thru that squaling every morning.. I initially isolated the serpentine belt but no, it was not.. Good thing my scanguage showed sudden Voltage drop during squeal, so i immeadiately suspected the OAP.

    Look at this OE - no cover, so all the water goes directly to the bearing, result is corrosion and depletion of grease.



    Newer one's got plastic cover



  13. Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    93
    #1813
    Quote Originally Posted by 12vdc View Post
    ^ Yup, i'L update the results.. Got it for P1650 ea.

    I've gone thru that squaling every morning.. I initially isolated the serpentine belt but no, it was not.. Good thing my scanguage showed sudden Voltage drop during squeal, so i immeadiately suspected the OAP.

    Look at this OE - no cover, so all the water goes directly to the bearing, result is corrosion and depletion of grease.



    Newer one's got plastic cover


    nice!!! looks imported ?

  14. Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    411
    #1814
    nice find sir, looks much better quality than the original, btw saw your oil filter is RED what brand is it?

    rpfronty, sir will check also some shops i know for the alternator, another option is a surplus replacement just replace the pully with a new one

  15. Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    3,522
    #1815
    *rpronty: i think the replacement is UK made, former was Japan. Difference is the drive and cover.

    *OJ213: got 1year horde. Baka maunahan ulit ako ng NCP eh..haha


    BTW noticed little difference betwen sports and regular nitrochargers

    Nitrocharger N183S
    Open Length(mm) Closed Length(mm)
    390 281

    Nitrocharger Sports 90003
    Open Length(mm) Closed Length(mm)
    390 287

    Does this mean the older version has wider suspension travel?
    Last edited by 12vdc; October 19th, 2012 at 02:07 PM.

  16. Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    411
    #1816
    Quote Originally Posted by 12vdc View Post
    *rpronty: i think the replacement is UK made, former was Japan. Difference is the drive and cover.

    *OJ213: got 1year horde. Baka maunahan ulit ako ng NCP eh..haha


    BTW noticed little difference betwen sports and regular nitrochargers

    Nitrocharger N183S
    Open Length(mm) Closed Length(mm)
    390 281

    Nitrocharger Sports 90003
    Open Length(mm) Closed Length(mm)
    390 287

    Does this mean the older version has wider suspension travel?

    hahaha... getting ready for the rainy days im using PUROLATOR NOW

    for the shocks i think the diff is on the casing, both should have the same travel

    btw, you got PM

  17. Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    2
    #1817
    Have anyone try to put blanking plate on the EGR of your navara? what are the cons and pros.. regards.

  18. Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    93
    #1818
    guys, can anyone recommend a shop that can do the regular engine , maintenance and repair? change fluids, replace pads, etc. etc. am just looking at other options as my navara is racking up the mileage.

    thanks in advance

  19. Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    3,522
    #1819
    Quote Originally Posted by jun2 View Post
    Have anyone try to put blanking plate on the EGR of your navara? what are the cons and pros.. regards.
    M/T or A/T?

    Check my EGR blanking mod here http://tsikot.com/forums/nissan-cars.../index124.html

    PROS: cleaner intake, no more worrying about clogged or malfunctioning EGR valve, no EGR maintenance required.
    CONS: higher NoX and CO2, but dont worry were in pH nobody does Nox and Co2 test here, and.. were all gonna die anyway who cares..haha..kidding. Remember EGR opens only when engine is idle, if you rev it past idling speed, valve totally closes.. For me since i always do highway run, EGR is useless and just additional wear part to maintain.

  20. Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    3,522
    #1820
    As promised.. done with body mount replacement, no more thumping sound on FL.

    Additional findings,

    Rust Problems:
    (next time i will not engine wash this portion, theres kinda no drain thats causing water to collect in that nut.)


    No Problem, Turco is my friend


    Done...

    Also replaced by myself the shocks, may hawig na rin sa Nitrocharger Sports (trying to convince myself) lol.



    Challenging part was removing the very tight nuts.. My suspect with tight nut was casa who did the suspension troubleshooting.. I stripped 2 nuts in the process - need to use torch, air tool, and lots of patience..

    This part is easy



    I think it gave additionl 1.5cm lift(will measure it again sometime), but overall im happy and still observing the ride quality.. Will be doing a long trip this week.

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