Just want to share some weird engine trouble..
This morning the engine won't start. It would crank but won't fire. No CEL on cluster meter, scanguage has no reading.
Checked the fuel filters for air/water ingress but there was none.
Checked the glowplug relay and simulated negative trigger, the circuit worked fine. Using a VOM, the heater won't engage during ignition key on position.
Checked all the fuse and found 1 busted in the IPDM box.
Label says EGI fuse #4 rated 20A.
Inserted a good fuse then switched the key into ON position.. fuse blew.
Removed harness of egr, turbo solenoid, and 4 injectors.. inserted another good fuse..switched the key to on.. fuse blew again..
Could'nt find on the manual what EGI is but i have a very good guess that the circuit has something to do with ECU and ignition control, hence no reading on scanguage and no trigger for glowplug relay..
After some 3hours of testing solenoids, sensors, and wirings harness...i found this
continued..
Turbo solenoid harness that was modified by casa some 3years ago had its insulator damaged due to friction and engine movement, the exposed wire made some solid contact with the solenoid bracket.
Top view
Undressed then assessed damage..
Strands were not that badly damaged so made new electrical tape dressing then put additional plastic insulation including the bracket edges.
Engine is back to life and I'm a happy camper again..![]()
jay-- sorry i have no extra plates...
12dvl-- saan ka nag pa water jet ng plates ?
anyone with ideas where to position an oil catch can in the engine bay?
Last edited by rpfronty; December 11th, 2013 at 07:58 AM. Reason: spelling
Sa QC bro. No feedback pa, pina sample ko yung 3, 3.5 at 5.5mm SS plates. Nakatambak lang kasi at balak ko din palitan yung ginawa ko, madungis eh. hehe
How to replace fuel filters in 5mins 1-man operation without manual priming
Use a P500 customized tool in lieu of the missing lift pump.
Materials:
Nissan Diesel Gas Tank Cap P300
Nipple 1/2 2pcs P85
Lock Nut P55
Quick Release male 1/2 P55
Durasteel Epoxy & Thread Seal
Drill 1/2 hole, oversize at the cap.
Stick the nipples, make them two. Quick release male fitting should protrude just enough not to interfere with lock mechanism of the female coupler.
Apply atleast 30psi. You may apply at 120 with the help of the compresor valve. Overpressure could bloat the tank!
Clean Diesolone juice.
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Any TDT users here? Napansin nyo ba yellowish na yung bago compared to reddish na lumang TDT?
I could be wrong thou, baka fake nabili ko!?
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Sa C&C mo din ba nabili sir? Could it be nagpalit ng dye sa newer batch? Napansin ko lang sa banawe in 1 quart container lang ang meron sila.
^ opo. sa C&C. actually first time ko gumamit e. kaya di ko alam na orange dati. hehe
I tried searching for MSDS if they changed dye color but ive found none so far. Will try to observe muna. Right now clear pa rin ang color after 600kms. I did the usual flushing, also changed air & fuel filters.
The usual..
Wax buildup in the primary filter indication of water contamination, and organic contaminant in the form of asphaltines for the secondary filter. OE filter is doing good after 10k kms.
Hi nga sir ask ko lng yung navara ko minsan na ubo at sinok pag natakbo at namatayan makina, nangyari yun mga 1000kms natakbo after change oil... Shell diesel gamit ko... Thanks mga sir
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How old is your truck, how many kms on the odo? Who did the change oil?
Under warranty pa. Complain mo lang and have it logged sa databse nila for future warranty claims. Kung lumampas ka sa warranty period at hindi nila na-resolve ang issue, in the future pwede mo i-dispute sa planta na dapat i-cover yung damage.
Do some backreading and there are heaps of info regarding LOSS OF POWER most of it are fuel related. Try to check also other brands and they too have this common issues.
To get you started, here are the basic things you could check, mostly are user accessible.
- Air filter. Check if clogeed, replace every 10k kms.
- Air Piping from cleaner box to Turbo compressor. Check for deformation when under boost. Usually a clogged air filter is the culprit.
- Fuel filters. Should be replaced every 10k kms
- Water in Fuel, Wax in Fuel filter. Check Primary Filter by bleeding the buttom part. Theres a bung to remove the water or inspect for hardened wax clogging the fuel line.
- Air in fuel. Check the manual how to purge air
- too much negative pressure in the fuel tank due to faulty filler cap relief valve stucked, depriving fuel pump with fuel. Open the fuel lid from time to time or replace fuel cap
- MAF. Clean with electronic contact cleaner
- Perform ECU reset to initiate fuel learning. Simply remove battery negative terminal, switch ignition key to crank, put back bat, start engine. Perform this every fuel filter change, MAF cleaning, or any fuel related maintenance.
- Engine Grounding. Inspect/ clean/ correct/ add.
- Boost sensor in the Intercooler. Inspect for leaks
- Boost solenoid vacuum and hoses. Check for leaks
- VNT diaphragm. Inspect if stucked
- EGR. Inspect/ correct if stucked. Blank it to lessen your worries.
- FPRV. Fuel Pressure Relief Valve (if yours is chipped, all chips do is increase rail pressure, usually corrected by removing the chip or adding a shim to the valve to increase pressure holding capacity). Casa replace it as whole rail assembly, but the valve can be opened if desired.
- and the most notorious SCV (Suction Control Valve) of Denso HP3 fuel pump. Usually will not throw any codes. Casa always misdiagnose and recommends replacement of fuel pump assy(when SCV is part of fuel pump assy).
How it looks like in the YD25 engine...
25mm unit PN #A6860-EC09A
Newer part is 45mm
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