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  1. Join Date
    Feb 2011
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    #1441
    Quote Originally Posted by Expatio View Post
    Ha ha.

    Sure people still warm up their cars in the cold of winter; but not for the reasons the writer gave.

    The main reason would be to bring the coolant up to temperature in order for you to have the heater working. There would be two reasons why I would want the heater to be hot.
    One being, if you leave your centrally heated house at about 22C and get into a car that is well below freezing it is not a nice experience.
    The second (and most important) reason would be to keep ice and mist off your windscreen.
    Some expensive cars overcome these problems with supplementary electric heater on remote, heated washer nozzles, and even heated windscreens.

    I would never idle my car on startup for any other reasons other than that; but that does not mean I would rev my car up to the red-line immediatly after starting. Of course that reason does not apply here in The Philippines

    As we all know after some heated driving it is good to idle a turbo diesel for a short time before shutting down
    I am almost seven years going in and out here somewhere in Europe, still winter season here, even at -25 deg. temperature, I never did and never seen people warming up, besides cars here spit out and drained coolants during winter, then its radiators got drunk with anti-freeze fluid. To warm up the car cabin? auto-climate will do the rest. Car imperfections and precise timing, for past decades has been identified through research and development. Folks, we are now in Info Tech or computer age, I believe microchips did all multitasking

    Ops! hindi ko kayo pinipilit na maniwala sa akin.

  2. Join Date
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    #1442
    Quote Originally Posted by arsen View Post
    The article forgot to mention that metals expands proportional to the increase of heat. That parts fitted together has to receive and retain heat in a gradual manner and of the same rate in order to maintain clearance or in-case of forced fit parts, to maintain tightness of fit.

    Example:
    The dynamic and static duo... called piston and liner.

    Liner is very thin and is surround by engine block and some hollow spaces that contains water.
    When heat from combustion is received by the liner, the heat is almost immediately transferred to the engine block and water around it. Therefore the liner cannot retain heat and any increase of the diameter of the liner will depend on the increase in the diameter of the bore of the engine block. Problem is, the entire engine block has to be heated also in order for the bore diameter to slightly increase.
    It will take some minutes to heat-up the engine block. This is the main reason why in cold countries they have electric heaters for engine block. This is also the main reason why there are aluminum alloy blocks (aluminum is very good heat conductor) which is more widely known for weight reduction.

    Now, piston is aluminum alloy, a very good conductor of heat and since it is like floating inside the liner, it dissipates heat through convection, radiation blah... blah and a very little conduction going to the piston rod via the pin and oil.
    In short, piston retains the heat of combustion and it expands depending on the amount of heat from combustion.

    When piston expands while the liner have not yet, the piston pushes the piston rings harder towards the surface of the liner and it creates abnormal wear or may scratch the liner.


    Next example will be the valve seat and cylinder head... but I think no need to explain for now. The above explanation would be enough to give credit to what your father is doing.

    As long as the smoke coming from the engine does not pollute your home, there is no wrong in idling the engine for a few minutes. But of course don't do it excessively as what the manual says.
    ================================================== ======
    Those above mentioned explainations are too nostalgic. Those were the days we back, engineers merely depends "slide rule" to there internal combustion engine design caculations.

    "That parts fitted together has to receive and retain heat in a gradual manner and of the same rate in order to maintain clearance or in-case of forced fit parts, to maintain tightness of fit." If we believe those statements above , THEN IT IS IMPOSSIBLE TO PLANT GV-T's to adiesel engines. Why?

    1.)kasi nandyan pa yong: iinitin muna dahandahan bago ma-maintain AT MA-ATTAIN ang clearance, iinitin muna dahan dahan para ma reach ang exactong fittings. ito pa "....Problem is, the entire engine block has to be heated also in order for the bore diameter to slightly increase.
    It will take some minutes to heat-up the engine block"

    2.) "....In short, piston retains the heat of combustion and it expands depending on the amount of heat from combustion.
    When piston expands while the liner have not yet, the piston pushes the piston rings harder towards the surface of the liner and it creates abnormal wear or may scratch the liner." my goodness, what a poor PISTON AND INTERNAL COMBUSTION ENGINEdesign that still exist today! KONG MAGKATAON Ma-I- SYNCHONISE ANG GT-V sa diesel engine with this poor design, walang compatability ang resulta, sasabog makina. KASI TO HAVE A GT-V, YOUR ENGINE MUST HAVE AN OPTIMUM PERFORMANCE.

    hindi kaya nakakahiya, you are riding with your latest generation car and you are into a race , tapos sasabihin mO muna sa kalaban mo "Sir sandali lang warm up muna ako, kasi alam mo na, alalahanin mona natin ang piston, at saka painitin ko muna para mag-expand ang metal parts sa makina para tight ang fittings

    But thanks to the CAD(computer aided design)/CAM (computer aided manufacturing) computer software, all the above PREVIOUS DESIGN PROBLEMS and "MYTH", HAS BEEN RESOLOVED, FOR WE HAVE NOW AN EXACT ENGINE PARTS manufacturing PRECISSION, that would leads to optimum engine performance (at pwede nang taniman ng GT-V ang makinang iyan :-))

    ano, mag-warm up pa ba tayo? Kanya kanyang hilig na lang yan :-)

  3. Join Date
    Jun 2009
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    #1443
    Quote Originally Posted by QUARTZBRO View Post
    ================================================== ======
    Those above mentioned explainations are too nostalgic. Those were the days we back, engineers merely depends "slide rule" to there internal combustion engine design caculations.

    "That parts fitted together has to receive and retain heat in a gradual manner and of the same rate in order to maintain clearance or in-case of forced fit parts, to maintain tightness of fit." If we believe those statements above , THEN IT IS IMPOSSIBLE TO PLANT GV-T's to adiesel engines. Why?

    1.)kasi nandyan pa yong: iinitin muna dahandahan bago ma-maintain AT MA-ATTAIN ang clearance, iinitin muna dahan dahan para ma reach ang exactong fittings. ito pa "....Problem is, the entire engine block has to be heated also in order for the bore diameter to slightly increase.
    It will take some minutes to heat-up the engine block"

    2.) "....In short, piston retains the heat of combustion and it expands depending on the amount of heat from combustion.
    When piston expands while the liner have not yet, the piston pushes the piston rings harder towards the surface of the liner and it creates abnormal wear or may scratch the liner." my goodness, what a poor PISTON AND INTERNAL COMBUSTION ENGINEdesign that still exist today! KONG MAGKATAON Ma-I- SYNCHONISE ANG GT-V sa diesel engine with this poor design, walang compatability ang resulta, sasabog makina. KASI TO HAVE A GT-V, YOUR ENGINE MUST HAVE AN OPTIMUM PERFORMANCE.

    hindi kaya nakakahiya, you are riding with your latest generation car and you are into a race , tapos sasabihin mO muna sa kalaban mo "Sir sandali lang warm up muna ako, kasi alam mo na, alalahanin mona natin ang piston, at saka painitin ko muna para mag-expand ang metal parts sa makina para tight ang fittings

    But thanks to the CAD(computer aided design)/CAM (computer aided manufacturing) computer software, all the above PREVIOUS DESIGN PROBLEMS and "MYTH", HAS BEEN RESOLOVED, FOR WE HAVE NOW AN EXACT ENGINE PARTS manufacturing PRECISSION, that would leads to optimum engine performance (at pwede nang taniman ng GT-V ang makinang iyan :-))

    ano, mag-warm up pa ba tayo? Kanya kanyang hilig na lang yan :-)
    Oh boi hindi kayang baguhin ng technology ang katangian ng metal na lumalaki, humahaba kapag naiinitan.

    Ang sinasabi ko na kapag naiinitan ang piston at kapag lumaki ang piston itutulak ng piston ang ring sa liner.

    Ang patulak na pwersa dahil sa pag expand ng piston ay tangent sa pag slide.

    Kuha ka ng papel (medyo malapad na kasya dalawang kamay) or pilasin mo isang pahina ng librong gamit mo. Patong mo sa lamesa at galaw-galawin mo ang papel ng isang kamay na parang pinupunasan mo ang lamesa. Ano mapapansin mo? Smoothly sliding ang papel di ba?

    Kung available ang isang kamay mo, ipatong mo yun sa kabilang kalahati ng papel at diinan mo ng konti ang papel. Ngayon gawin mo ulet yung ginawa mo kanina na parang pinupunasan mo ang lamesa. Ano mapapansin mo? Napapaslide mo pa ba ng kasing lambot ng dati ang papel?

    Ang sinasabi ko ay dahil sa patulak na pwersa ng pag expand ng piston "It creates abnormal wear or may scratch the liner". Ang epekto noon ay saka mo lang mararamdaman sa paglipas ng panahon. Hindi ko sinasabi na sasabog ang makina.

    Isa pa hindi realistic ang example ninyo na makikipagkarera kasi for sure mainit na makina noon kasi wala namang karera na starting from garage. I doubt din kung makakalabas kayo ng sabay sa gate. Kung sa kalye ninyo naman gagawin ang karera hindi rin ninyo pwede iwanan ng matagal ang sasakyan. Ewan ko lang kung hindi kayo ma wrecker.

    Ang sa akin lang naman at kapag gusto ninyo na tumagal ang buhay ng makina ay mas makakabuti na kapag galing sa matagal ng nakatigil (halimbawa overnight) eh idle muna bago hatawin.

  4. Join Date
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    #1444
    Quote Originally Posted by arsen View Post
    Oh boi hindi kayang baguhin ng technology ang katangian ng metal na lumalaki, humahaba kapag naiinitan.

    Ang sinasabi ko na kapag naiinitan ang piston at kapag lumaki ang piston itutulak ng piston ang ring sa liner.

    Ang patulak na pwersa dahil sa pag expand ng piston ay tangent sa pag slide.

    Kuha ka ng papel (medyo malapad na kasya dalawang kamay) or pilasin mo isang pahina ng librong gamit mo. Patong mo sa lamesa at galaw-galawin mo ang papel ng isang kamay na parang pinupunasan mo ang lamesa. Ano mapapansin mo? Smoothly sliding ang papel di ba?

    Kung available ang isang kamay mo, ipatong mo yun sa kabilang kalahati ng papel at diinan mo ng konti ang papel. Ngayon gawin mo ulet yung ginawa mo kanina na parang pinupunasan mo ang lamesa. Ano mapapansin mo? Napapaslide mo pa ba ng kasing lambot ng dati ang papel?

    Ang sinasabi ko ay dahil sa patulak na pwersa ng pag expand ng piston "It creates abnormal wear or may scratch the liner". Ang epekto noon ay saka mo lang mararamdaman sa paglipas ng panahon. Hindi ko sinasabi na sasabog ang makina.

    Isa pa hindi realistic ang example ninyo na makikipagkarera kasi for sure mainit na makina noon kasi wala namang karera na starting from garage. I doubt din kung makakalabas kayo ng sabay sa gate. Kung sa kalye ninyo naman gagawin ang karera hindi rin ninyo pwede iwanan ng matagal ang sasakyan. Ewan ko lang kung hindi kayo ma wrecker.

    Ang sa akin lang naman at kapag gusto ninyo na tumagal ang buhay ng makina ay mas makakabuti na kapag galing sa matagal ng nakatigil (halimbawa overnight) eh idle muna bago hatawin.
    Ang importanteng tanong ay kung gaano katagal ang warm-up? With the latest car engine and engine oil technology, talagang shorter na yan vs previous cars. To save mother earth, we should be responsible kasi, doesn't ean we have the money to buy gas/diesel eh puwede na tayo excessive idling. As the manual says, when the engine starts, idle for a while and then you can go. I assume 1-2 mins max idle puwede na siguro. Peace!
    Fasten your seatbelt! Or else... Driven To Thrill!

  5. Join Date
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    #1445
    Quote Originally Posted by Ry_Tower View Post
    Ang importanteng tanong ay kung gaano katagal ang warm-up? With the latest car engine and engine oil technology, talagang shorter na yan vs previous cars. To save mother earth, we should be responsible kasi, doesn't ean we have the money to buy gas/diesel eh puwede na tayo excessive idling. As the manual says, when the engine starts, idle for a while and then you can go. I assume 1-2 mins max idle puwede na siguro. Peace!
    Tamang tanong po yan.

    Pag idle ng engine ay isa rin lang namang paraan ng pagwarm-up. Pagpatakbo ng mabagal lang sa una is another form. Kanya-kanyang style at depende sa pinanggalingan ng sasakyan. Kung ang tambotso is right next to your main door so sa labas syempre dapat magwarm-up sa pamamagitan ng pagtakbo ng mabagal lang sa una bago hatawin or pwede rin na hanggang hindi gumagalaw ang temperature gauge huwag muna hatawin.

    Ang importante lang naman na kailangan pa rin ng warm-up kung nais tumagal ang makina.

    Saka kung hindi man malinaw sa user's manual hindi ibig sabihin na hindi na kailangan. Isipin nyo na lang kung ano mangyayari sa car industry kung sobrang tagal bago magpalit ng sasakyan ang mga users.

    Sa ibang bansa na magaganda ang daan at maalaga ang mga owners, gobyerno na mismo ang indirectly na pumipwersa para magpalit ng sasakyan ang mga owner sa pamamagitan ng strict and expensive requirements and other registration hassles kapag umabot na ng 5years ang sasakyan.

  6. Join Date
    Feb 2011
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    #1446
    Quote Originally Posted by ChoyJo View Post






    Second..
    yo sir, eto po ba ung 4x4 na GTV montero? stock po ung rear spoiler nya? carbon fiber po ba yun?

    anu po ba pinagkaiba nung 4x4 at 4x2 GTV sa body.

    thanks po mga sir.

    balak po kasi namin kunin eh ung GLX montero hehehe. pero syempre gusto ko GTV, kaya lang ayaw ni ermats, hehe. probably by the end of the year pa po kasi kabibili lang ng innova G for me.

  7. Join Date
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    #1447
    mga bro, anu pagkakaiba ng 4x2 at 4x4 na GTV sa body? TIA. :D

  8. Join Date
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    #1448
    Quote Originally Posted by boldventure View Post
    sa intrumental panel may parang coil na light sa 2010, pagnawala pwede na start
    Almost all diesel fed engines have that Glow-plug heater indicator.

  9. Join Date
    Jul 2010
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    379
    #1449
    For those who are not sure whether to buy the GT-V or the GLS-V; here is a list of some GT-V specific items not included on the GLS-V.

    • Super Select 4x4
    • 5 speed A/T
    • Hybrid rear LSD
    • Rear disc brakes
    • Tyre pressure monitoring
    • Honeycomb grill
    • Rear CF spoiler
    • HID (xenon) lights
    • Headlight washers
    • Magnesium paddle gear shifters
    • Leather seats
    • Woodgrain
    • Chrome interior handles
    • Automatic Climate Control

  10. Join Date
    Nov 2010
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    25,276
    #1450
    Quote Originally Posted by SiRbossR View Post
    Almost all diesel fed engines have that Glow-plug heater indicator.
    except those direct injection like Isuzu engines and the latest models. Tinatanggal na yang glow plug kasi nga addt'l maintenance cost. Go Blue eagles!
    Fasten your seatbelt! Or else... Driven To Thrill!

  11. Join Date
    Aug 2009
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    100
    #1451
    Quote Originally Posted by Expatio View Post
    For those who are not sure whether to buy the GT-V or the GLS-V; here is a list of some GT-V specific items not included on the GLS-V.

    • Super Select 4x4
    • 5 speed A/T
    • Hybrid rear LSD
    • Rear disc brakes
    • Tyre pressure monitoring
    • Honeycomb grill
    • Rear CF spoiler
    • HID (xenon) lights
    • Headlight washers
    • Magnesium paddle gear shifters
    • Leather seats
    • Woodgrain
    • Chrome interior handles
    • Automatic Climate Control
    That's true sir. + Rear fog lamps. I already ordered those rear fogs at Citimotors parts department including the honeycomb grill.

  12. Join Date
    Feb 2011
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    49
    #1452
    Quote Originally Posted by arsen View Post
    Oh boi hindi kayang baguhin ng technology ang katangian ng metal na lumalaki, humahaba kapag naiinitan.

    Ang sinasabi ko na kapag naiinitan ang piston at kapag lumaki ang piston itutulak ng piston ang ring sa liner.

    Ang patulak na pwersa dahil sa pag expand ng piston ay tangent sa pag slide.

    Kuha ka ng papel (medyo malapad na kasya dalawang kamay) or pilasin mo isang pahina ng librong gamit mo. Patong mo sa lamesa at galaw-galawin mo ang papel ng isang kamay na parang pinupunasan mo ang lamesa. Ano mapapansin mo? Smoothly sliding ang papel di ba?

    Kung available ang isang kamay mo, ipatong mo yun sa kabilang kalahati ng papel at diinan mo ng konti ang papel. Ngayon gawin mo ulet yung ginawa mo kanina na parang pinupunasan mo ang lamesa. Ano mapapansin mo? Napapaslide mo pa ba ng kasing lambot ng dati ang papel?

    Ang sinasabi ko ay dahil sa patulak na pwersa ng pag expand ng piston "It creates abnormal wear or may scratch the liner". Ang epekto noon ay saka mo lang mararamdaman sa paglipas ng panahon. Hindi ko sinasabi na sasabog ang makina.

    Isa pa hindi realistic ang example ninyo na makikipagkarera kasi for sure mainit na makina noon kasi wala namang karera na starting from garage. I doubt din kung makakalabas kayo ng sabay sa gate. Kung sa kalye ninyo naman gagawin ang karera hindi rin ninyo pwede iwanan ng matagal ang sasakyan. Ewan ko lang kung hindi kayo ma wrecker.

    Ang sa akin lang naman at kapag gusto ninyo na tumagal ang buhay ng makina ay mas makakabuti na kapag galing sa matagal ng nakatigil (halimbawa overnight) eh idle muna bago hatawin.
    [SIZE=3][SIZE=2]================================================== =[/SIZE][/SIZE]
    [SIZE=3]Yes it’s a fact metal reacts by expanding if we apply heat, will shrink also if its cold. But the precise maximum expansion and shrinkage has already been determined through decades of material laboratory test, again that tangency you are referring kasama na yon sa accuracy of fittings which is calculated through the use of CAD/CAM. Kong mag - 40 freezing temperature or 50 deg hot temperature, the metal precision shrinkage and expansion is tolerable enough to hold the maximum pressure of the fluid intake, lubricant oil and etc, para hindi mag-bleed ang mga fluid for example tatagas palabas ng slender head at sa engine block . Now a days nacontrol na yong katangian ng bakal na if heat is induced hahaba, dahil car manufacturer ngayon are using materials with engineered properties created through the development of specialized process and synthesis technology. [/SIZE]


    [SIZE=3]Ngayon para sa ano pa ang pag-warm up ?[/SIZE]

    [SIZE=3]If you will recognize and accept the word “precision “ you will understand what I mean. [/SIZE]

  13. Join Date
    Jan 2011
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    #1453
    Quote Originally Posted by gti277 View Post
    That's true sir. + Rear fog lamps. I already ordered those rear fogs at Citimotors parts department including the honeycomb grill.
    Please advise if you will be able to connect the rear fog light with the switch/control similar with the GTV. Had mine connected sa park lights lang. Sabi ng installer sa casa is that walang naka abang na wiring connection.

  14. Join Date
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    #1454
    Quote Originally Posted by tuazon7 View Post
    Please advise if you will be able to connect the rear fog light with the switch/control similar with the GTV. Had mine connected sa park lights lang. Sabi ng installer sa casa is that walang naka abang na wiring connection.
    You mean the stalk switch? Wala nga raw abang sa GLS-V model. Anyway, baka ganun na rin gawin ko, connected na lang sa park lights.

  15. Join Date
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    #1455
    The use of rear fog lights, when conditions do not require them, is irresponsible and inconsiderate to other tailing road users.

    In most countries it is an offense akin to blinding an oncoming vehicle with full beam.

    That is why there is an orange light to remind you you have left them on.

    Footnote: The luminosity of rear forgs is up to 30 times more than normal rear lights, and are only supposed to be used if visibility is less than 50 metres.
    Last edited by Expatio; March 18th, 2011 at 03:17 PM. Reason: footnote

  16. Join Date
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    #1456
    Quote Originally Posted by QUARTZBRO View Post
    [SIZE=3][SIZE=2]================================================== =[/SIZE][/SIZE]
    [SIZE=3]Yes it’s a fact metal reacts by expanding if we apply heat, will shrink also if its cold. But the precise maximum expansion and shrinkage has already been determined through decades of material laboratory test, again that tangency you are referring kasama na yon sa accuracy of fittings which is calculated through the use of CAD/CAM. Kong mag - 40 freezing temperature or 50 deg hot temperature, the metal precision shrinkage and expansion is tolerable enough to hold the maximum pressure of the fluid intake, lubricant oil and etc, para hindi mag-bleed ang mga fluid for example tatagas palabas ng slender head at sa engine block . Now a days nacontrol na yong katangian ng bakal na if heat is induced hahaba, dahil car manufacturer ngayon are using materials with engineered properties created through the development of specialized process and synthesis technology. [/SIZE]


    [SIZE=3]Ngayon para sa ano pa ang pag-warm up ?[/SIZE]

    [SIZE=3]If you will recognize and accept the word “precision “ you will understand what I mean. [/SIZE]
    You keep missing point poh.

    Alam mo ang precision na tinatawag pero ayaw mo pa rin tanggapin na kailangan ng warm-up.

    Or di mo lang alam na kailangan ng minimum and maximum temperature para sa sinasabi mo na precision.

    The temperature that I mean is the operating temperatures. Kung saan dinidesign ang machine. Operating ay yung kapag higher na sa idle speed. Idle is "standby" (not yet "operating" yan) kaya its the best way to warm up at idle but not excessively.

    May isa pa na temperature yung ambient temperature. Ang ambient temperature ay importante sa amin para sa survival ng machine. Pero pag survival na pinag-uusapan may mga irreversible damage na dyan. Its still alive pero may trauma na kung sa tao pa kaya di na sya makakapagperform efficiently kagaya ng dati.

    Ganito na lang para maiintindihan nyo na..... wala na ba ngayon thermostat ang mga makina? Kung wala na it means ok lang na magoperate ang makina sa kahit gaano kababa na temperature.

    Hanggat may thermostat pa na nakakabit sa mga mass produced na makina mahalaga pa rin ang minimum operating temperature. Para tumagal ang makina warm up mo sya near sa operating temperature nya para wala masyado problema later on.

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    #1457
    * arsen and quaartzbro
    - since mukhang magagaling naman kayo sa research, why not focus on knowing the exact idling time needed to warm-up the MS. Afterall, and I hope both will agree na talagang kelangan ng warm-up esp. if overnight na hindi nagamit rig.
    Fasten your seatbelt! Or else... Driven To Thrill!

  18. Join Date
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    #1458
    Quote Originally Posted by Ry_Tower View Post
    * arsen and quaartzbro
    - since mukhang magagaling naman kayo sa research, why not focus on knowing the exact idling time needed to warm-up the MS. Afterall, and I hope both will agree na talagang kelangan ng warm-up esp. if overnight na hindi nagamit rig.
    Exact time? mori sabi ng Japs.

    But vehicle has temperature gauge. Kung di naman nagmamadali, wait for the temperature gauge to register a reading maski konti lang. It will take sometime naman for the coolant to conduct heat towards the sensor.

    Double safety din yan. It means coolant is flowing or there is coolant in the system. Malay ninyo kinagat pala ng daga ang rubber hose or nagkaleak somewhere else at na drain overnight ang coolant.

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    #1459
    Is there a GLS-V with leather seats. Limited Edition?

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    #1460
    Quote Originally Posted by gundam View Post
    Is there a GLS-V with leather seats. Limited Edition?
    As far as I know, only the GTV has leather seats as stock.

2011 Mitsubishi Montero Sport [ARCHIVED]