The Kia Sedona/Carnival Thread [ARCHIVE]

[mikey177]

thanks will try to contact mr castillo, do you have his number?? i've tried na sa Fronte and Goodgear di daw available eh..

meron daw ang rerefill ng shock absorbers sa cruven or zee, i'm not sure kung advisable ito sa kia carnival, bigat kasi ng minivan na ito eh..

You can try reaching Jay Castillo at 0917-7448113.

***

Yes, I read about the shock absorber refilling service done by those shops, but since I live far from QC, the option is not feasible for me. I'm also hesitant to try it because, as you said, the Sedona is one heavy minivan.

I'm going to canvass for shocks first within the province and I'll see what turns up.

[Josiel]

Hello Everybody...

It's nice to read again discussions about our rides. Have not posted for a long time , d kasi ako makalogin nakalimutan ko password. We'll last Dec. umuwi ako sa Pinas at problema sa Kia agad sumalubong sa akin. I was driving along Molino road then suddenly my CD player started to flicker then when we reach my parents house I turn off the engine. But when I started it again it did not start , wala talaga d man lamang nagredondo. check ko battery walang karga. So pinakargahan ko magdamag at kinabukasan dinala ko sa shop na binilhan ng battery kasi bago yun ilang buwan pa lang( I think nagpost din ako nun). Nung nacheck nakita na d kumakarga yung battery kaya nadrain so sabi Alternator daw so dinala ko sa gumagawa ng Alternator (sa Talaba). Along the way nakita ko umiilaw yung "Hold" sa dash board , tapos yung "coil" naka ilaw din di namamatay. Pagdating sa shop buti na lang bukas kasi Dec. 24 yun. Nakita na sira na yung Alternator sabi nung gumagawa dapat daw palitan ng mas mataas na ampere rating 110 Amp. Kasi yung nakalagay daw ay 90 A lang daw. Kaya ayun pinapalitan ko Alternator(recondition 6,500 pero pinatrade in ko yung dati kaya nabawasan ng 1,000) pinalitan na rin yung wire kasi mas mataas na kuryente ang dadaloy. After napalitan nawala yung ilaw sa dash board , gumanda ang hatak at di na pumapalya ang pag start , maganda na rin ang karga ng battery. Hanggang ngayon ok pa rin at nrenew ko na rin ang rehistro.
Makikisuyo lang baka merong may alam , kasi yung speedometer ko hindi na gumagana(di ko na alam ang speed ko pag nagdrive) pero yung odometer reading nya umiikot pa rin.
Good Luck to everybody!

[Josiel]

Meron na bang nakaGPS ? Kung bibili ako ng GPS unit sa China magagamit ko kaya sa Pinas?

[benchph1]

Hello my dear tsikoteers and kia carnival owners..

i'm new at this website and found it very infromative regarding our KIA carnival problems and solutions..

i own a 2nd hand 2001 kia carnival LS with a 90K++ odometer reading.. so far no major problems aside from the parts which are regularly replaced like the following:

> 4 pcs engine supports
> Clutch disc, pressure plate and release bearing
> Clutch cylinder master and slave
> Left front shock absorber (tumigas kasi although pwede pa i-repair pinalitan ko na din)
> Fan Belts
> Headlamp assy.

So far ok naman ang carnival ko, mabilis pa rin ang makina iba talaga humatak parang kotse..

I've seen most of the kia owners here have their cars serviced by a mechanic or in CASA which is very expensive.. but pratically KIA carnivals are very easy to maintain if you have the technical know how, which most of the time I do it myself to save and so far so good.. If you have other inquiries on what to do please feel free to ask me maybe i can help you diagnose some known kia problems

Well aside from that, may i ask if someone here knows where i could buy instrument cluster for kia carnival?? i have a problem where my speedometer got stuck, but the odometer reading still functioning.. can anyone share if you experienced the same?? what could be the possible solution??

Also is anyone here experienced in their engines that there are times na yung engine is "kumakadyot" (i dont know the right term) but the symptom is there are times when i suddenly step on the accelerator, engine seems to be rocking back and forth making the "jerking" action.. does anyone know how to fix this?? I have been suspecting the engines timing belt and timing since it is not yet replaced up to this time.. hope you can give inputs..

thanks in advance and more power to this thread/website which is truly been helpful

about the stuck speedo, you dont need to replace the whole cluster. experienced the exact same problem and replaced just the speedo assy. though your mileage would be reset to zero. just take note of the previous mileage and add it up. be prepared though when you buy this through casa. it costs 5k each.

about the "kumakadyot" problem, have you been experiencing this before you replaced the clutch assy or after?

[mikey177]

It was nice to finally meet Jay Castillo in person. He delivered two pieces KYB rear shock absorbers to my house on his way to Manaoag this afternoon.

I hope he has a safe trip back to Metro Manila. And daming lumuwas ngayong long weekend, lalo na't Flower Festival sa Baguio.

[jcastillo932]

Nice meeting you Sir Mikey177 and family. I'm here na po in Manila. Thank you very much Sir Mikey177 (Lalo na sa masarap na merienda ). Regards to Dra. and kids.

[boquito]

alwayz yummy: I bought my 04 Sedona late last year. I went to see about 20 units all in all. If I saw your CRDI for 400 I would have bought it right then and there. If everything is working properly I would not even mind paying 500k for it. That looks like a real bargain.

I noticed that my Sedona had a hard time going from 100 kph to 110 kph in the NLEX. It takes about 10 seconds with the accelerator floored to the ground at over 3500 rpm. I knew there was something wrong because I was already getting scared with my speed. I do not normally go over 100 since I have kids now and because I read somewhere that accidents met at 110 are twice more fatal than those met at 100. And four times more at 120kph.

On our next trip to Pangasinan, I experimented with various speeds at various rpms to compare it with my 14 year old A/T Lancer. My Lancer would sustain 100 kph
at about 2750 rpm and would accelerate an extra 10 kph for every additional 250 rpm. That means in my old car I would be doing 150 kph at 4000 rpm. Whereas in my Sedona I thought that I was doing 100 at 2750 also but 110 at about 3500 already. The Sedona odometer also registered 10% lower than the Lancer (When I did 200 km in the Lancer, I was only registering 180 on the Sedona).

Could it be that our tires should be smaller. Since at 32 psi our tire looks underinflated (even the wear on my Dunlops are more on the shoulders only and significantly less at the center). And if you look at the manual, for Europe they recommend slightly lower tires (215/65R15) but with 36 psi.

This is what happened with my experiment: I just planned to sustain 120 for about 10 second and record all my observations at various rpm. from 100 kph at 2750 rpm I reached 120 at 4000 rpm and sustained it for 10 seconds at the NLEX between San Fernando and Angeles Exits. I feel it could have given more but 120 was my limit and it was getting scary for me already since it has been about 4 yrs since I drove that fast. There were 3 adults and 2 kids in the van and the back full of luggage.

When I reached the toll gate at the end I was flagged down by the officials looking antagonistic. Since I was guilty for going 120, I was gracious.

My jaw dropped when they told me that my Sedona clocked at 151 kph. They said that their radar are periodically calibrated by LTO so it is accurate. They also said that I was going so fast that they were surprised to see me already after just having just received the call from the radio. And when I looked at their list, I held the fastest record for the day and it was already late in the afternoon on a Saturday.

I was embarassed, but the devil inside me was a little proud that our Sedona can do that speed easily. But it also makes me worry because this problem with the speedometer of our van may be common and others may make the same mistake.

Can you guys post your speeds and corresponding RPMs so we can compare.

I paid about PhP 700 all in all at LTO East Ave and lost about half a day of work falling in lines and attending the seminar.

Summer getaways are around the corner and I pray for all of our safe trips.

[boquito]

alwayz yummy: I bought my 04 Sedona late last year. I went to see about 20 units all in all. If I saw your CRDI for 400 I would have bought it right then and there. If everything is working properly I would not even mind paying 500k for it. That looks like a real bargain.

I noticed that my Sedona had a hard time going from 100 kph to 110 kph in the NLEX. It takes about 10 seconds with the accelerator floored to the ground at over 3500 rpm. I knew there was something wrong because I was already getting scared with my speed. I do not normally go over 100 since I have kids now and because I read somewhere that accidents met at 110 are twice more fatal than those met at 100. And four times more at 120kph.

On our next trip to Pangasinan, I experimented with various speeds at various rpms to compare it with my 14 year old A/T Lancer. My Lancer would sustain 100 kph
at about 2750 rpm and would accelerate an extra 10 kph for every additional 250 rpm. That means in my old car I would be doing 150 kph at 4000 rpm. Whereas in my Sedona I thought that I was doing 100 at 2750 also but 110 at about 3500 already. The Sedona odometer also registered 10% lower than the Lancer (When I did 200 km in the Lancer, I was only registering 180 on the Sedona).

Could it be that our tires should be smaller. Since at 32 psi our tire looks underinflated (even the wear on my Dunlops are more on the shoulders only and significantly less at the center). And if you look at the manual, for Europe they recommend slightly lower tires (215/65R15) but with 36 psi.

This is what happened with my experiment: I just planned to sustain 120 for about 10 second and record all my observations at various rpm. from 100 kph at 2750 rpm I reached 120 at 4000 rpm and sustained it for 10 seconds at the NLEX between San Fernando and Angeles Exits. I feel it could have given more but 120 was my limit and it was getting scary for me already since it has been about 4 yrs since I drove that fast. There were 3 adults and 2 kids in the van and the back full of luggage.

When I reached the toll gate at the end I was flagged down by the officials looking antagonistic. Since I was guilty for going 120, I was gracious.

My jaw dropped when they told me that my Sedona clocked at 151 kph. They said that their radar are periodically calibrated by LTO so it is accurate. They also said that I was going so fast that they were surprised to see me already after just having just received the call from the radio. And when I looked at their list, I held the fastest record for the day and it was already late in the afternoon on a Saturday.

I was embarassed, but the devil inside me was a little proud that our Sedona can do that speed easily. But it also makes me worry because this problem with the speedometer of our van may be common and others may make the same mistake.

Can you guys post your speeds and corresponding RPMs so we can compare.

I paid about PhP 700 all in all at LTO East Ave and lost about half a day of work falling in lines and attending the seminar.

Summer getaways are around the corner and I pray for all of our safe trips.

[diesoline]

Whereas in my Sedona I thought that I was doing 100 at 2750 also but 110 at about 3500 already. The Sedona odometer also registered 10% lower than the Lancer (When I did 200 km in the Lancer, I was only registering 180 on the Sedona).

This is what happened with my experiment: I just planned to sustain 120 for about 10 second and record all my observations at various rpm. from 100 kph at 2750 rpm I reached 120 at 4000 rpm and sustained it for 10 seconds at the NLEX between San Fernando and Angeles Exits. I feel it could have given more but 120 was my limit and it was getting scary for me already since it has been about 4 yrs since I drove that fast. There were 3 adults and 2 kids in the van and the back full of luggage.

boquito, is your unit equipped with the v6 gasoline engine? your rpm readings are too high relative to your speed. if your unit is diesel, your speedometer is out of whack.

at 2000 rpm in final gear, my speedometer reading is ~105 kph. my unit is a crdi with a/t btw.

[yapoy86]

Hello Everybody...

Nung nacheck nakita na d kumakarga yung battery kaya nadrain so sabi Alternator daw so dinala ko sa gumagawa ng Alternator (sa Talaba). Along the way nakita ko umiilaw yung "Hold" sa dash board , tapos yung "coil" naka ilaw din di namamatay. Pagdating sa shop buti na lang bukas kasi Dec. 24 yun. Nakita na sira na yung Alternator sabi nung gumagawa dapat daw palitan ng mas mataas na ampere rating 110 Amp. Kasi yung nakalagay daw ay 90 A lang daw. Kaya ayun pinapalitan ko Alternator(recondition 6,500 pero pinatrade in ko yung dati kaya nabawasan ng 1,000) pinalitan na rin yung wire kasi mas mataas na kuryente ang dadaloy. After napalitan nawala yung ilaw sa dash board , gumanda ang hatak at di na pumapalya ang pag start ,

hi to all,

i've seen some of us are experiencing problems with our alternators and most of the time the solutions presented here in the forum is to immediately replace the alternator with a surplus or refurbished replacement or if not a brand new alternator.

Let me share you my experience with our first KIA the BESTA van, it was really a good choice for us a 2nd hand van compared to other 2nd hand vans like the L300, but since it was 2nd hand common problems are experienced and one major is the alternator. Just one morning the van didn't start at all, you will just hear clicks but no cranking, so we check the batteries and it was dead, we charged it then found out the alternator was not charging, so we have it checked by an auto electrician, he changed the carbon brushes and cleaned the whole thing, after that it was ok! But for a few months the problem started again, and we have it checked by an auto electrician and he said "hindi daw sapat yung karga ng alternator kaya kailangan palitan" so we replaced it with a refurbished alternator costing us P4,500. So after that the van wnet for another 3 years without problems on the alternator until one day a strange problem occurred. The battery will always went dead everytime we use the van for 1 hour!! So our 1st suspect is the alternator, so we have it checked again and found out it was charging, so we replaced the battery. But the next day the problem occurred again and everytime we went to the electrician, the alternator will always register charging and even the charge indicator is disappearing indicating that it is charging!! WHAT?? every auto electrician we consulted said the alternator was good!! so whats the problem?? So i took the job myself repairing it since no one could, I did my observations my self and try to find out what could be the problem..

After months of using the van for every 1 hour a day and that everytime we use it we need to charge its batteries to the place we will stop like the office so we can use it, I found the problem at last. It was caused by a "LOOSE" solder in the DIODES assembly that is causing poor charging electricity and current. You cannot see its loose by the naked eye, and even if you look at it closely you can see its in very good shape, but its loose. I soldered it using a soldering gun and voila, the alternator is good again... We used it for 2 years until we sold it to a fortunate buyer since all problems are already solved!!

The next van we had is the KIA carnival and it was on my surprise that this van also has the same problems with the alternator!! We are in our baguio trip when suddenly I noticed my instrument panel starts acting crazy, my temp gauge needle flicks, ABS signal will turn on and off and other things... And when we came home the batteries went dead and the alternator did not charge at all, so again i took the job myself and found out the same, the charging poles are fried up due to high current caused by a loose connection and loose solder on the diodes assembly... I have it re soldered and reinforced the charging pole.. and up to now the alternator is very good, one click start..

So to my KIA owners out there especially the Carnival owners, if you found your alternators seems not charging, do not immediately decide to replace it, as long as it is not fried up or abused (by using high wattage equipments such as auxilliary fog lights) your alternator will last a very long time if proper repairs has been made.. Ask first the auto electrician to do what I did like; Re- Solder all connection points especially in the diodes area, replace carbon brush, Reinforcement of the charging pole, and checking the IC regulator for the right amount of voltage. If the alternator has LOW VOLTAGE, signs will be your ABS lights will turn ON, Tachometer drops, If HIGH VOLTAGE, OIL Pressure and parking brake lights will turn on..

I hope this helps to those kia owners having problems with the alternator...Do not immediately replace even if other are saying na sira alternator or needs a "Higher AMP output"!! As long as the coils are not fried the alternator is good!!

[yapoy86]

about the "kumakadyot" problem, have you been experiencing this before you replaced the clutch assy or after?

na experience ko before and after replacing my clutch assembly and even the engine supports, that is why i'm wondering where could be the problem... I'm having the van changed timing belt assembly including all idler bearings and have it timed properly one mechanic told me na possbile timing problem lang. so sana maayos nga.. I only experience the engine jerking back and forth when i suddenly step on the gas, then if you step slightly sa clutch mag ok na sya or if you step on the gas gradually ok naman.. also i found out that our kia carnival engine parts are made in germany kaya pala mahal, even the injectors, timing belts and bearings... at 90k buo pa timing belt although may signs na ng wear and tear but still in good condition pa din ive read others have failing belts as early as 50k

[mikey177]

boquito, is your unit equipped with the v6 gasoline engine? your rpm readings are too high relative to your speed. if your unit is diesel, your speedometer is out of whack.

at 2000 rpm in final gear, my speedometer reading is ~105 kph. my unit is a crdi with a/t btw.

Para ngang may problema ang speedometer ni sir boquito.

My unit is a 2002 TDIC MT. As far as I remember, at 120 kph, my tachometer reads less than 3,000 rpm in 5th gear. The fastest I go at NLEX is 110 kph for short periods of time, just to overtake. So far I haven't been flagged down by their traffic enforcers, which means I've either been very lucky or my speedometer is properly calibrated.

****

On another note, I recently replaced my front and rear shock absorbers with KYB Excel-G gas-filled shocks.

I've noticed that the KYB's give a firmer, more snappy ride than the OEM fluid shocks. For me, this is a good thing. The ride is firm, but not stiff, and I note better maneuverability on corners and when braking.

The only thing that remains to be seen is how long these shocks last on our heavy minivan.

[mikey177]

...i've seen some of us are experiencing problems with our alternators and most of the time the solutions presented here in the forum is to immediately replace the alternator with a surplus or refurbished replacement or if not a brand new alternator...

sir yapoy,

Thanks for thr tip regarding the alternator. Mine is still okay, but I'm filing your post for future reference.

Would you by any chance be able to post some photos of the parts that need to be checked/soldered, like the diodes assembly? I am not yet that familiar with auto electrical systems.

[janicholsean]

sir, pano pag walang dumadaloy n diesel dun s fuel return hose s injector. magiging palyado b? kc napa check ko n injectors, ok na yun pressure pero palyado parin pag umabante ako. pero pag naka stop ako, hindi cya palyado. napansin ko, wala dumadaloy diesel dun s return hoses nya.
tnx po!

[utakabo]

bad news. the grinding sound did not go away after replacing the tensioners prompting my mechanic to bring down the engine and open it up. there we found that the gear connected to the oil pump was completely worn out, as in the teeth were rounded smooth.

[mikey177]

sir, pano pag walang dumadaloy n diesel dun s fuel return hose s injector. magiging palyado b?...

Sir, you can also try asking your question in the Diesel Fuel Injection System Help Desk thread in the Workshop subforum.

...we found that the gear connected to the oil pump was completely worn out, as in the teeth were rounded smooth.

Sorry to hear that. Aside from the worn out gear, are there any other parts that have to be replaced? Normal daw ba na napupudpog ng ganun yung gear na yon, o may ibang problema/dahilan kaya nag-wear out yung gear?

[utakabo]

Sir, you can also try asking your question in the Diesel Fuel Injection System Help Desk thread in the Workshop subforum.



Sorry to hear that. Aside from the worn out gear, are there any other parts that have to be replaced? Normal daw ba na napupudpog ng ganun yung gear na yon, o may ibang problema/dahilan kaya nag-wear out yung gear?

the internal gear assembly of the oil pump, for some reason went off-center causing it to turn erratically, so the chain grounded off all the teeth of the sprocket connected to the oil pump. naharos lahat, konting bukol na lang naiwan, so palit na lahat ng sprockets (3 pieces, chain and guides and another spring-loaded mechanism(sory i was not able to get the name)). other parts seem okay. while the engine is down, papalitan na rin clutch disc, pressure plate and release bearing. it seems that the oil pump was still able to circulate the oil despite the problem, otherwise, kumatok na sana makina.

[yapoy86]

sir yapoy,

Thanks for thr tip regarding the alternator. Mine is still okay, but I'm filing your post for future reference.

Would you by any chance be able to post some photos of the parts that need to be checked/soldered, like the diodes assembly? I am not yet that familiar with auto electrical systems.

here are the pics, make sure diodes points are soldered properly, especially the charge poles.. i think KIA has a design problem here in their alternator charge poles, they design it with a FORCE-FIT bolt, this connection gets loose in the long run making the poles get hot due to high current loss. in turn, the connection will get fried up affecting your diodes connection also to get loose. so if they are loose, you will get poor charging or no charging at all...

[mikey177]

utakabo::: Thanks for enumerating the parts that were affected. I hope the repairs are completed soon and are done thoroughly.

yapoy86::: Thanks for posting the photos with accompanying explanation. It will be a good addition to our knowledge database on the Carnival/Sedona.

[benchph1]

i hope im not right, but that "grinding" noise sounds similar to what happened to our carnival..ended up replacing A LOT of parts that concerns the oil chain and other related parts. brace yourself. it costs 30K. discounted.