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  1. Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    1,961
    #141
    Well there is another way around doing the intercooler hose, You can get a stainless pipe or aluminum that will fit inside your intercooler hose. You can mount the nozzle in the section of pipe either have a weld in bung put it to screw it in or have it tapped for 1/8" npt thread and screw in the nozzle. You will just need two new hose clamps to hold it in place.

    This is how I have it on my Elgrand very easy to do it this way. I did have a pre formed piece but you can make your own.





    On the 4M40 it's kind of the only option there is no mounting space anywhere else for the nozzle the braided factory hose is two thick for the nozzle to be mounted through.

    I got mine from frozenboost.com just look at silicone joiners. And you can have almost any metal shop make you one. You just need to know the inner diameter of your hose. And make sure they put a lip on the ends like pictured in the other joiners.





    Turbo Piping

  2. Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Posts
    2,277
    #142
    dvldoc, my devilsown stage 1 set up uses two nozzles (before and after the intercooler) and in your site you recommend nozzle be placed after the intercooler. Should I disable the nozzle in the pre intercooler? Also I want to lessen the use of my methanol, what would be your recommended PSI setting in the boost swittch?

  3. Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    1,961
    #143
    If your intercooler is a top mount then I would leave it alone because they get heat soaked very easy. But if you want to lessen use then that would be the one to get rid. You want the boost switch set were it will not come on during normal driving like at cruise speed. You want it for overtaking and getting up to speed quick when needed. But you still need it to come on early enough to start cooling the EGT's.

    First you need a boost gauge if you don't already have one and a activation light so you can see when the system is coming on. I would set it at 1 to 2 psi higher than the boost you make at 100kph. Every vehicle is different so it's best to play around with it. If you want more out of your system increase your boost a few psi.

  4. Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Posts
    2,277
    #144
    My ride is Pajero FM and the intercooler is top mount. I have a boost gauge installed already but I don't have an activation light. How would I know if it is activated so I can further adjust it, any recommendation?

    Thanks,

  5. Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    1,961
    #145
    Pretty easy, All you need to do is get a simple indicator light or LED. You will hook one wire from a ignition on source to your LED and the ground will be on the same wire as your pump. This way the light only comes on when the pump is activated.

  6. Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Posts
    2,277
    #146
    Thanks doc!

  7. Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Posts
    2,277
    #147
    dvldoc, I just tapped it to the pump wire and its ok. Set up the pressure to 7.5-8.0 PSI to open the pump.

  8. Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Posts
    590
    #148
    For me I replaced my pressure switch with this electronic switch.



    What is good on this switch you can put it in you dashboard to easily change the setting of your pump to activate.
    I have 3 extra on this, just PM me if you are interested.

    here is my 20 liters tank that I customized I used devils own tank tap to mount the hose. I just paint it with black and put a indicator to see the level of the water.




    The nozzle is M2 tap in the rubber of intecooler.






    Before I'm using 30%/70% denatured alcohol/Water but now only 100% purified water .

    I using this in my Isuzu trooper 3.1 for 2 years now and no problem encounter in the setup.


  9. Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    1,961
    #149
    That is a nice setup, I really like that pressure switch that things cool, reminds me of our progressive controller, Nothing like in car tuning vs popping the hood. Also nice brackets for the water tank..

  10. Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Posts
    2,277
    #150
    dvldoc, your inbox is full already. Cannot send you any PM. Need to ask something on the devilsown.

  11. Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    161
    #151
    Hi dvldoc. I have already disabled my egr because i think its faulty. I disconnected the hose to the valve and had it sealed. Do i have to install a new egr first before i put on the kit or will the kit solve the faulty egr. Whenever im on 100km/hr and on 2000 rpm there is loss of power and lots of white smoke comes out of the exhaust. But when i disabled it, everything was perfect.

  12. Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Posts
    590
    #152
    Quote Originally Posted by vyn300d View Post
    Hi dvldoc. I have already disabled my egr because i think its faulty. I disconnected the hose to the valve and had it sealed. Do i have to install a new egr first before i put on the kit or will the kit solve the faulty egr. Whenever im on 100km/hr and on 2000 rpm there is loss of power and lots of white smoke comes out of the exhaust. But when i disabled it, everything was perfect.
    My EGR was also disable since 5 years now. I have water injection and don't need EGR to enable again is more cons in my trooper.. As what you said when you disabled it everything was perfect same as mine.

  13. Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    161
    #153
    So is it ok just to unplug the hose or do i need to do a complete blocking? Thank you

  14. Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Posts
    590
    #154
    better to block it with sheet of metal.

  15. Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    143
    #155
    finallly, arrived:



    two more components missing. appreciate inputs from you guys (THANKS in advance):
    1. tank - saw 10-liter red plastic fuel container at Diy-Shop. Will that do?
    2. pressure gauge - where can I find one in Metro Mla?

    too excited to see how this can boost my AT Xwind.

  16. Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    1,961
    #156
    keep your boost at around 10psi maximum since it's a low pressure turbo. And if you want to turn up the pump pressure there is a allen head adjustment screw on the top of the pump. 1/4 turn clockwise will turn it to 250psi it's a 1/16" allen head.

    I would go for the biggest tank that will fit. Plenty of them at surplus shops, I like the plastic 5 gallon Jerry cans myself.



    or something like this.


  17. Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Posts
    590
    #157
    Quote Originally Posted by 14myXUV View Post
    finallly, arrived:



    two more components missing. appreciate inputs from you guys (THANKS in advance):
    1. tank - saw 10-liter red plastic fuel container at Diy-Shop. Will that do?
    2. pressure gauge - where can I find one in Metro Mla?

    too excited to see how this can boost my AT Xwind.
    you've got pm bro!

  18. Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    255
    #158
    Quote Originally Posted by 14myXUV View Post
    finallly, arrived:



    two more components missing. appreciate inputs from you guys (THANKS in advance):
    1. tank - saw 10-liter red plastic fuel container at Diy-Shop. Will that do?
    2. pressure gauge - where can I find one in Metro Mla?

    too excited to see how this can boost my AT Xwind.
    1. you can use any of the containers available on DIY shop or supermarket. The size would depend on the space where you want to put it. But the bigger the better - less refill.

    2. Boost gauge is available at car accessory shops but you can also use the surplus electronic gauge/switch. This would get rid of the mechanical pressure switch provided on the package. Pressure adjustment is easy since you can mount it inside like what i did. I think nap123 has this electronic gauge/switch.




    HTH

  19. Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    161
    #159
    how's the performance sir?

  20. Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    255
    #160
    Quote Originally Posted by vyn300d View Post
    how's the performance sir?
    I installed mine way back april 2008. In terms of performance, below is the dyno result quoted from the MPV thread.

    Quote Originally Posted by dvldoc View Post
    Figure I would throw up you dyno from today you must be killing guys down low with all that torque

    Devilsown Alcohol injection does it again.

    Great results from 1500 to 3000rpm power and torque increases are great but the turbo does fall flat on it's face at around 3600rpms a pre-turbo nozzle would give you alot more gains in your top rpm range.

    But look at the max gains

    1500 rpms 14hp TQ 47LBS Max HP Gain 43% Max TQ gain 46%
    2000 rpms 32hp TQ 84LBS Max HP Gain 63% Max TQ gain 65% HUGE!!
    2500 rpms 17hp TQ 36LBS MAX HP Gain 20% Max TQ gain 21%
    3000 rpms 10hp TQ 19LBS MAX HP Gain 10% Max TQ gain 11%

    As we stated before these vehicles have undersized turbos and the pre turbo injection signifiacatly helps them with the top end power Just compare the starex dyno. If he puts on a Pre turbo nozzle the power up to will be much greater. But once again we prove without doubt our system flat out makes power on turbo diesels. Nothing your going to buy for 15K installed is going to give you that kind of power period.



    All in all very impressive must be a blast to drive compared to stock.










    Kaya lang after almost 4 years ay defective na yung pump.

    Actually, you can do a budget water/alcohol injection using brand new China RV water pump from Ebay. The hoses and fittings are available in Manila. You can also buy the nozzle and check valve on Ebay.

    HTH

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Water/Alcohol injection Turbo Diesel use