magkano ba yang WAI set-up na yan? may tinatarget akong kunin na pickup 98 model strada 4wd 4d56 turbo (no IC) pamalit sa current pickup ko na single cab.
^ sir, ano yung single cab mo?
BTT: nasa 20k yung price nung WAI kit sa berrima. stage 2 na. but you can opt to buy abroad, sa online ng devilsown.
Without modification just like in my Crosswind (stage 2), you need at least 26K with some of the stuff like the container and the boost gauge belongs to you.
With the mod just like the one I have in my FM, prepare ~30K for stage 1 and bring your own boost gauge.
I would suggest that you buy the Devilsown sa Berrima para madali ang replacement pag me problem even during installation. It will be expensive if you will ship it sa PI not to mention yung hassle sa post office/custom.
I got mine 4 years ago from devilsown for around 12K yata but this is the introductory price and wiithout install. Mahal na pala ngayon.
But after less than 4 years eh bumigay na yung pump. may worn out part sa loob. There were post here before na nagka problema sa pump kahit ilang months pa lang na install.
Ayaw ko na gumastos ng malaki, kaya bumili na lang ako ng RV pump sa ebay galing China. so far ok naman performance at very cheap price.
Actually if you can source out for the nozzle, then you can build one on a smaller budget. yung mga push-on fittings and tubing ay mabibili mo locally. The RV pump from ebay ay P 1.9 k lang. check valve is P250.
Para sa pressure switch with built in boost gage, meron pa yata si nap123 ng spare you can PM him.
I would estimate a cost of 4~6K excluding nozzle.
But if you are not a DIY guy, better get the kit with install.
HTH
any links regarding sa install procedures, materials needed, etc? cannot be found na kasi yung mga pinost ni devildoc na links eh. thanks
You may want to try this one sir... Do It Yourself Water Alcohol Methanol Injection | Before You Begin
^how about nozzles for 80-100 hp engines?
judging the parts schematic, DIY level is manageable.....nozzle, pump at h20 solenoid na lang kung may local source or replacement to the ones stated sa link na available locally.
If dito mo binili especially sa Berrima, they will replace it agad kung nasa warranty pa. If sa abroad it will take time and money for the replacement. I already computed the kit cost and the shipping cost, hindi significant yung savings (wala pang tax yon) so I preferred sa local nalang.
For the DIY it will be ok if the parts are locally available. If the parts will come from abroad especially in the US the shipping cost alone will make it expensive than when you buy the kit. Some of these sellers will only use DHL, UPS, FEDEX in their shipments and we are talking about multiple sellers.
* nelany - will add the float switch as soon as I have my permanent stainless tank.
with DlvDoc's confirmation, I added "remote control" to my setup. It allows me additional flexibility when and how much spray I wanted to use. Still playing with it but sporadic spray (vs continuous at a given pressure) seems to work for my style of driving (and vehicle).
Remote Control -- nothing fancy but a wired spring switch ;).
guys, pls see: epa.gov/otaq/consumer/reports.htm or 'tonys guide to fuel saving devices'. thank you
It's not meant to be a fuel saving device on N/A gas vehicles, On turbo diesels that's a different story, That study was also done in 1980 on a 1979 car.
Will do.
Boost is reaching 12psi and get to see those in climbs. I noticed that even at lower psi (5 or 6) i do get enough speed/power that I need on the road. So AI actually helps me more now at getting to needed speed quicker.
Also, just an update on my recent alcohol consumption. Had a quick trip to Tagaytay (4 passengers). Consumed approx 4liters of alcohol/water in relaxed, regular driving. Again, my spray is sporadic instead of what used to be continuous spray. I think this is pretty good. Comments from from users on their own experience?
For me 4 liters consumption going to Tagaytay at normal driving is high. I think your pump is open at 5 psi boost. That is my previous setting on my FM and I have similar consumption. I set it at 8 psi for the pump to open and my consumption is really ok. I will still set it at 9 psi so it will open only at 120 kph on a long drive.
guys, this is not my opinion. water/alcohol inj is considered a hoax in the US(just like ALL fuel savers/engine enhancers). the EPA has wrongfully debunked ALL engine improvements except common rail, turbocharger, efi, direct injection, etc. w/c are now incorporated in modern engines. AFAIMC, kung inaakala niyo na advantageous ito sa mga rigs niyo, by all means, gamitin niyo. personally medyo madugo ito para sa katulad ko na limited ang knowledge sa auto mechanics. kung masaya kayo diyan sa mga accomplishment niyo, dapat ituloy niyo, ika nga, susuportahan ko kayo. tnx6: Water Injection
This technology actually has historic roots. During World War II, aircraft engineers needed a device to combat detonation -- premature ignition that could damage engine parts -- in piston-powered fighter aircraft. Their solution involved injecting a mixture of water and alcohol into the air intake, cooling the engine and helping maintain proper fuel ignition.
After the war, hot-rodders adopted water injection for their own high-performance engines. The technology showed up on a handful of successful race cars, but it has declined in use as advanced materials, engines and fuel technology reduced the risk of detonation.
Detonation, like misfiring, is not a problem most drivers of modern cars will ever experience. It typically only occurs in cases where a driver runs a highly modified engine (which often experiences much higher than normal internal pressure) on low-octane gasoline. In a normal vehicle driven under normal conditions, the scenario that invites detonation is highly unlikely. Water injection may be a useful tool for specific high-performance situations, but it's not a particularly useful or effective device for improving your daily driver's fuel mileage [source: RallyCars.com].
Last edited by ghosthunter; May 29th, 2012 at 03:41 PM.
Your quoting some old stuff, And the kit the epa tested was not a reputable injection system. It's a chessy kit that uses vacuum to pull in fluid (test in 1983) It's defiantly not considered a hoax in the US. Or anywhere else in the world. Everyone knows it's roots from WWII.
I could post up about 1000 dyno test that prove otherwise. Even companies like AEM have water injection systems, why because it works. You should try to update your sources. We have people make up to 10hp to 150hp on methanol injection. To be perfectly clear the kits tested by the EPA 30 years ago are not the systems of today that operate progressively off of boost or MAF inputs. Again out of date sources on kits that are nothing like the current ones sold.
It's also unmatched in NOX emission reduction, so it should make all the greenies happy.
http://www.alcohol-injection.com/ima...rt%20tuner.pdf
You should try to back read or looked at all the dynos posted on here.
All kits will make around the same power, it all comes down to pump pressure and nozzle size.
http://www.snowperformance.net/magazine_articles.php
It's not meant to be a fuel saving device on any gas engine, it's for making power! On a diesel you can set it up for better fuel economy but again it's main goal is to make power. You also get free boost on forced induction engine adding to the power increase. It's makes power and there is no questioning that.
Hello Doc, will it be beneficial if I set the pump to max setting? I have a stage 1 (FM) and stage 2 (Crosswind) set up.
Thanks,