ahhh I see....siguro pag nag pa change oil tayo sa susunod mas maputi puti ng konti ang kulay ng langis...
ang nangyari kasi naman sakin...tinesting ko yung fake na fleetguard with TDT...hehe ngayon TDT with baldwin na...pareho tayo....![]()
ahhh I see....siguro pag nag pa change oil tayo sa susunod mas maputi puti ng konti ang kulay ng langis...
ang nangyari kasi naman sakin...tinesting ko yung fake na fleetguard with TDT...hehe ngayon TDT with baldwin na...pareho tayo....![]()
ganun ata talaga pag diesel eh.. na observe ko kasi sa everest namin ganyan din kahit fleetguard o wix filters at kaka change oil lang.. after 1 day maitim na din agad... whereas pag sa gasoline naman namin na auto 1 week bago mag start mag darken,,,
* DVLDOC what can you say about this toyota made in japan oil filter? different oil filter i've ever seen inside of toyota oil filter and Vic oil filter 90915-YZZC5 and C-110 .mpg - YouTube
Well I do better than my opinion I give you the facts.
Those filters from Denso are made from molding a thick fiberglass material, 2-3 mm., over a stiff plastic skeleton, then some type of material is added which make is somewhat hard.
This particular filter media is pretty crappy just as bad as the VIC and considered inferior in filter testing.
The funky Toyota media is 88% efficient at 40 microns and 31% efficient at 20 microns.
The VIC C-110 is a horrible little filter as well, one of the worse bypass valves and spring designs out there. But it is 87% efficient at 40 microns and 39% efficient * 20 microns.
Now compare that to a Baldwin BT223 which is 98.6 efficient * 25 microns and 50% efficient at 12 microns.
The VIC anti drainback valve for the C-110 also show it will not hold oil which will lead to dry starts and increased wear.
Here is a closer look at that funky fiberglass resin media (not to be confused with microglass media which is excellent) The other bad thing about the Funky media of the Toyota filter pieces can break loose and clog oil passageways especially if you run them past 5000km when they will really start to break down.
This is not that particular filter but it's the exact media and has the same specs for efficiency.
Bottom line they both inferior filters.
just to update my usage of BT223 for my 2 corollas (2E). Originally, I am Vic C110 user and Petron MO40 for 5000km. Before, the oil starts to darken after 2000km and eventually turns darker until it reaches 5000km. BTW, forgot to mention that these are taxicabs.
Now the car is running 3000km and the oil condition is still like 1500km. I can say this observations because I check the oil daily because the car runs 300-350kms a day.
I very happy to have bought and installed Baldwin 223 for just a PHP65 price difference against the Vic C110. I can't wait to install those BD28 that I also bought for my Starex and Adventure and see the improvement.
I wouldn't VIC is a poor quality filter all around, it's the Fram of Japan. Not all Toyota factory filters are bad but most for gas engines are lower quality than something like a Bosch or Purolator and have a much lower efficiency rating.
Glad you found the thread, The reason your seeing much cleaner oil is the difference in efficiency the Baldwin is 50% efficient at 12 microns and about 30% at 5 microns. Vic on the other hand is around 5% efficient at 12 microns so I simply cannot keep your oil as clean as the Badwin.
For a service vehicle with a lot of stop and go you I would go at least 8000klm, If you have a service vehicle do the oil analysis and see the status of your oil at 8000klm and you will not only know if you can go ever further on that oil but the condition of your motor. Which is something I would want to check if I had been running a VIC for so long.
Hi fellow tsikoteers!
I own a 2006 1.6 Corolla Altis with a 3ZZ engine, which is infamous for being a sludge monster. I've almost read the whole thread and by the looks of it, almost everyone is sold to the idea of using quality filters ang going 10,000 KM or more for OCI, with 100% synthetic oils, of course. I've also recently read joeasp's post of using the BT223 in their 2E corollas and still having nice oil texture in his 3,000 KM visual oil test. Has anyone attempted to go 10,000 KM OCI on a 3ZZ with BT223 and still have good oil/motor condition? I can't attempt it, too scared!
TIA!
* rego_nono there is nothing to be scared of running your oil 10000km with a Baldwin filter this is what they are designed for, And if your vehicle is a sluge monster it's because your not using good oil that has a good amount of calcium in it which is the cleaning agent in oil. If your car is sludge you should use diesel oil it's high detergent content will clean your engine out and restore it without using a engine flush which can send big clumps of slug to clog up oil passageways.
Oil analysis testing proves this oil change interval is perfectly fine with quality oil especially oil with a high TBN like the oils I have mention on this thread. SN oil I would not run 10000klm they don't have enough additives in them.
The Petroleum Quality Institute of America
This is a very good site to see how much additives are in the different API rated oils are and also why you should avoid unknown off brand oils you never know what is or is not in them.
That was fast. :-)
Thanks dvldoc. I guess that puts my mind at ease. I'm originally aiming for a Royal Purple 5W30 + BT223 combination, but when I read the link you gave (BTW, thanks for that too), I saw the sulphur content for RP (10W30) is way off the charts, giving me another stuff to think about. Not sure if they updated their formulation for 5W30, though. Any thoughts on this?
I guess speedyfix can chime in too, his shop has been the longest user of RP that I know of.
Petroleum Quality Institute of America
Yes that is a high sulfur content, but there are plenty of good oils to use there that won't cost you a arm and a leg, Synthetic ZIC oil will do the job.
The oil could be oil the SL rating came before SM and SN. But 5000 is the limit on sulfur in oil.
Well it looks like the the SL version of RP uses what's called Synerlec sulfurized ester additive as one of their additives so it's actually nothing to worry about. The newer SN will not have that Sulfur content since it's not allowed. But the TBN on that stuff is 12.7 it will last a very long time before needing to be changed out.
That's why I had made this thread my first pitstop in Tsikot..a very informative thread devoid of such product hyping and was all based on facts. (internet resourced at least).
So pls. contribute guys for more of the much "bang for the bucks Good Quality oils and Filters " available here in Pinas. I myself is an environmental and pocket concious user.
Hi dvldoc. I have a pajero with 4m41 engine. I use top 1 15w40(synthetic diesel oil?) which cost around 300 pesos. If i use baldwin filters can i extend up to 10k kms? Or is it much better to use mobile tdt with baldwin on 10k intervals. Im a bit hesitant to use mobil tdt bec of its viscosity 5w40.
Found this on the net, P188 only, Petronas Syntium 15w50 semi-syn. Looks good for 4t motorbikes out their.
PETRONAS Dagangan Berhad
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