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  1. Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    1,961
    #1
    Anyone running this here? I decided to go ahead and get this for my Elgrand for a few reasons, one being the Elgrands filter is hard to find being 1" 12unf thread and second I have tons of space after removing the stock airbox.

    People have been doing these as Do it Yourself jobs for years on diesels Amsoil is now selling them (way overprice) IMO.





    I am using this kit with a Fleetguad bypass filter with sythetic media and Fleetguard full flow filter. Which will equal the Amsiol.


    About bypass filtration.

    • What is add-on bypass oil filtration?
    It is a secondary filtration unit with the purpose of super-cleaning engine oil. It has high
    contaminant-holding capacity and filters out the smallest particles to include sludge and
    soot in special cases. It also reduces engine wear and may increase oil volume.
    • Where is bypass filtration used today?
    Bypass filtration is standard on all Cummins automotive heavy-duty and larger turbo diesel engines
    and on Mack Applications. It has been used as options and/or standard on Caterpillar, Detroit.

    Reason for doing this on a diesel.

    • Removes small particles and soot
    • Extends engine life
    • Increases oil capacity
    • Extends oil change interval
    • Reduces engine wear
    Most going with this system using the higher end filters are going on average of 50000 klm between oil chanes with using engine oil testing as there go by of how well the system is working.


    By-pass lube filters are designed to capture and hold small abrasive particles that pass through the full-flow filter. Though microscopic in size, these particles are a major contributor to faster wear of internal engine parts.
    Any type of by-pass filter of reasonable quality will effect some reduction in engine wear rates compared to that obtained with full-flow elements alone. The more efficient the by-pass filter is in reducing the total contamination level of the lubricating oil, the more effective it will be in reducing wear rates.

    Extensive testing has shown that quality element type by-pass filters in combination with full-flow filters can extend engine wear life two to three times. Further testing with the centrifugal type cleaner has shown an additional reduction in wear of 54%. It is believed that the superior performance of the centrifuge results not only from its ability to remove abrasive particles down to 1 micrometer and below but also to the extraction of carbon soot agglomerates to a far greater degree than is possible with element type filters.

    A lot of post on hear always asking about the best oil but if your still using a low quality filter like VIC, and other no name Japan or China made filters then what's the point of getting good oil if it's dirty. Many OEM filters are also junk like Toyota it's what's on the inside not the outside of a filter that matters.

    Basic set up but you can also mount it under hood which many do. I know many TD42's have dual filters and Pajeros 4D56 and 4M40's have a combo filter with 2 elements so basically a stacked bypass filter.



    The whole oil filter quality thing has not really been covered well on the forum. So I figured it's about time.

  2. Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    1,961
    #2
    What's in your filter?

    OEM Toyota comparison.


    OEM Honda




    Nissan / MANN OEM filter



    Nissan OEM


  3. Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    1,961
    #3
    Bosch


    Fram


    K&N


    Mobil1


    Purolator.


  4. Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    1,961
    #4
    Typical Japan filters




    These are the higher end Fleet service filters you cannot get over the counter at your local auto parts stores in the U.S.

    Fleetguard made by Cummins and what I run.


    Baldwin also a excellent brand.


    WIX which is over the counter but well built.

  5. Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    1,961
    #5
    Higher end synthetic fiber filters which are great for a bypass filter set up or just high quality replacement. With these regardless of brand they seem to come from the same factory vs the normal cellulose (paper) media filters.

    Royal purple


    Donaldson


    AMSOIL


    Fleetguard


    Baldwin (has a cellulose synthetic blend)

  6. Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    1,961
    #6
    What company makes what filters?

    Fram
    Honda OEM
    Chrysler line up except for the Cummins
    Penzoil
    All Fram models

    Champion Labs

    Bosch
    Car and Driver
    Deutsch
    Mobil 1
    STP
    SuperTech
    K&N
    Luberfiner
    Trust


    Wix
    Carquest blue
    Carquest red
    Napa Gold
    Napa Silver


    Purolator
    Purolator premium plus
    Purolator Pure One
    Havoline
    Maxlife Valvoline (some)
    Group7
    Pro Line
    MotorCraft
    Superflo
    Valvoline filters

    Denso
    Toyota
    Mann+Hummel
    Mann
    Volvo


    Clarcor
    Hastings
    Amsoil
    Casite

    Cummins makes Fleetguard

    Baldwin makes Baldwin

    Donaldson makes Donaldson

    Fram (Honeywell) makes some Honda OE filters. So does Filtech. Filtech is a US division of Toyo Roki in Japan. Toyo Roki also makes the Subaru WRX and STi (turbos) filters.

    JHF FILTERS Korean

    Fil filters (Korea) (Label says Toyota)

    OKIYA filters (CHINA)

    Sakura filters (Japan)

    Ryco (Austraila)

    VIC (Japan)

    Ginza (Japan)

    Power Long (Korea)

    Your oil is only as good as the filter your using.

  7. Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Posts
    1,973
    #7
    Quote Originally Posted by dvldoc View Post

    [LIST][*]Removes small particles and soot[*]Extends engine life[*]Increases oil capacity[*]Extends oil change interval[*]Reduces engine wear
    Good day Sir Dvldoc,

    since this system filters the oil better... my understanding is , clean oil=clean engine=cleaner exhaust gases...

    how much would a system like this cost for a japanese van like a toyota hiace 2L diesel engine. and are the high grade filters locally available here too?

    thanks and hope you can share more tips here

  8. Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    123
    #8
    Hindi nila mabenta yan dito sa europe.Hindi basta basta maniniwala mga european dyan.Mas maraming natatakbo ang mga sasakyan dito kaysa sa U.S. dahil sa langis hindi sa special na filter. Dagdag gastosin pa yan,tsaka additional components na pwedeng magleak ng langis dahil siyempre maluluma din mga flexible hose, isama mo pa dyan ang vibration.Hindi rin nyan kayang patagalin ang buhay ng langis.Oxidation ang kalaban ng langis at walang filter ang makakapigil dito. Magaling sa marketing ang mga Kano,proven na sila dyan.

  9. Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    1,961
    #9
    Quote Originally Posted by impulzz View Post
    Good day Sir Dvldoc,

    since this system filters the oil better... my understanding is , clean oil=clean engine=cleaner exhaust gases...

    how much would a system like this cost for a japanese van like a toyota hiace 2L diesel engine. and are the high grade filters locally available here too?

    thanks and hope you can share more tips here
    Your crank vent system puts dirty oil and soot back into your air
    intake, That goes back through the engine then out your exhaust. Oil
    catch can pretty much gets rid of that effect.



    As far as I know you can get mobil1, and K&N filters there in the
    Philippines. I am not aware of all after market brands there. I will say
    stay away from VIC filters.



    Here is some testing from a car magazine. Most filters there that I have
    seen are about the quality level of Fram if they are not a U.S brand.
    And we call Fram the orange can of death here.

    The set up's cost around 150USD for a dual kit and less than 100 for a single remote kit which just adds a bypass filter.

    Or you can just get a quality filter and do regular oil changes. Fleetguards and the ones in that upper level are good for 15000Klm between oil changes.

    It's not marketing just simple fact proven with engine oil testing by 1000's of people. Here in the states these set up's are pretty common on our V8 turbo diesels, If you have a 10000 engine you want to protect it. Same thing goes for Semi trucks for fleet service there is a reason they run bypass set ups and carry brands like Fleetguard, Baldwin, Donaldson ect, because it reduces operating cost for the company.

    If you have a friend that's state side they can easily pick this stuff up for you. I shipped over my filters before my last trip to replace the stock VIC that was on mine. Or wait until next year then getting these will be no problem :thumbup:

    Some test done by a car mag that has VIC included, It did poorly.

    The spacing will probably get screwed up as soon as I post this.

    Results in short:

    Champion C138 Very good
    Clean DO 851 Very good (with size reservations)
    Biltema 502077 Good (with size reservations)
    Purolator Micronic Good
    Teho OK 174 Good (with reservations)
    Fram PH 4967 Satisfactory
    Motorcraft EFL391 Satisfactory
    Mann W68/80 Passable
    M-Filter MH 3347 Passable
    Toyota 90915-10001 Inferior
    Vic C-110 Inferior

    "Clean" filter was was wider than others, and "Biltema" longer.


    What did they test?

    1) Filtration

    Filters were tested with a test equipment conforming to standard ISO 4572.
    The test oil was recirculated through the filter, and dirt was continuously
    added to it. The test dirt consisted of particles smaller than 200 micrometers.
    I've picked the figures below from the graphs on the magazine. 15 mg of
    dirt was added to each liter of oil passed through the system. Oil flow
    rate was 25 liters per minute.

    After 5 minutes, % of each particle size [micrometers] filtered:
    40 30 20 10

    Champion 98 91 64 19
    Clean 99 91 66 16
    Biltema 99 91 62 16
    Purolator 97 86 60 11
    Teho 96 89 61 17
    Fram 98 87 55 9
    Motorcraft 99 90 61 12
    Mann 98 88 56 10
    M-Filter 96 85 50 10
    Toyota 88 77 31 0
    Vic 87 71 39 4

    After 10 minutes, % of each particle size [micrometers] filtered:
    40 30 20 10

    Champion 97 90 63 18
    Clean 97 91 62 13
    Biltema 95 88 56 11
    Purolator 97 82 52 9
    Teho 98 86 56 15
    Fram 97 85 51 5
    Motorcraft 97 92 62 16
    Mann 96 83 50 7
    M-Filter 94 80 47 9
    Toyota 81 60 25 1
    Vic 81 68 39 4


    time until blocked (bypass valve opens):

    Champion 16-18 min
    Clean 21-23 min
    Biltema 29-33 min
    Purolator 22-26 min
    Teho 16-18 min
    Fram 22-26 min
    Motorcraft 13-15 min
    Mann 25-27 min
    M-Filter 19-27 min
    Toyota 16-23 min
    Vic 20-20 min



    2) Anti-drainback valve operation

    All except Vic held the oil.

    You can test this yourself, if you want. Find a bolt that fits on the
    thread in the filter, fill the filter with oil, and with the bolt
    screwed in, turn the filter to its side, like it is on the engine
    block. Does it leak?

    3) Bypass valve operation

    Some filters leaked slightly through the bypass valve early before
    the filter elements were blocked, but at worst only 22ml/min.
    Compare that to the 25000ml/min total flow in the test, and you
    see that it is totally insignificant.

  10. Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    1,990
    #10
    Quote Originally Posted by dvldoc View Post
    As far as I know you can get mobil1, and K&N filters there in the
    Philippines. I am not aware of all after market brands there. I will say
    stay away from VIC filters. VIC ang mostly available na pinakamaganda sa lugar namin lalu na probinsya...may bosch pero andami rin japeyks.

    Here is some testing from a car magazine. Most filters there that I have
    seen are about the quality level of Fram if they are not a U.S brand.
    And we call Fram the orange can of death here.

    Some test done by a car mag that has VIC included, It did poorly. Anong mag po ito sir? American magazine ba?
    What I do is regular oil change (mineral blend).....every other oil change ang palit filter. Light duty pickup truck with 220k miles on the odometer......

  11. Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    1,961
    #11
    Diesels are tough, when talking about engines like Cummins were talking going millions of miles on the same motor on big rigs.

    The question is using cheap filters is how much compression have you lost over time, how worn are your internals and how efficient is your engine still running.

    Cheap filters like Fram for example collapes all the time leaving oil unfiltered.


    Poor made filters like this OEM Honda with the typical cardboard end caps have cheap glue that breaks down and allows unfiltered oil to run through. Really not what I want to run on my POV.



    How well do you think this is going to hold up.


    You at least want your filter to have a metal end cap on both ends that covers the whole filter and a metal center tube so it does not collapse under pressure and a decent bypass valve in case it gets plugged and a good anti drain back valve so you don't have dry starts.

    Filters should look like this after a average oil change. The one in the middle is a OEM Subaru made by Tokyo Roki.









    The question is is do you want a filter that is this weak protecting your engine. Especially on a newer vehicle, These are big investments and repairs can be costly.


    Nothing wrong with the basic filters as long as they meet the minum standards, they are fine for normal duration oil changes and that is no more than 8000klm. You should change the filter after that for sure.

    But VIC filtration is below par

  12. Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    25,276
    #12
    What i do is changed oil, oil filter and fuel filter for peace of mind every 5,000 kms. Only VIC is widely distributed that is good enough. Bosch also has poor distribution in the provinces kasi.

    I also installed OCC to ensure cleaner turbo and prevent dirty oil and soot from coming back to the engine.

    What i don't understand is why OEM oil filters perform poorly? Any tech guys here from one of the car manufacturers care to enlighten us?
    Fasten your seatbelt! Or else... Driven To Thrill!

  13. Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    1,961
    #13
    Quote Originally Posted by Ry_Tower View Post
    What i do is changed oil, oil filter and fuel filter for peace of mind every 5,000 kms. Only VIC is widely distributed that is good enough. Bosch also has poor distribution in the provinces kasi.

    I also installed OCC to ensure cleaner turbo and prevent dirty oil and soot from coming back to the engine.

    What i don't understand is why OEM oil filters perform poorly? Any tech guys here from one of the car manufacturers care to enlighten us?
    A oil catch can is a must and makes a world of difference.

    Here's a quick clue about OEM, do you honestly think say Nissan wants your engine to last for double it's life. That's shooting themselves in the foot, they engineered this way for more frequent changes so you buy more filters and make more trips to the dealer to get them.

    Lets look at this Nissan filter do you think they put a lot of design effort on these?







    Of course not all OEM filters are of this poor quality but you get the point. This is not ment to be a tough filter just good enough to make it from oil change to oil change. The aftermarket is out there to provide a better product for better protection of your engine. This filter can be torn with no effort at all, heck it's not even Cellulose it's some kind of foam.


  14. Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    9,431
    #14
    Quote Originally Posted by dvldoc View Post

    I know many TD42's have dual filters and Pajeros 4D56 and 4M40's have a combo filter with 2 elements so basically a stacked bypass filter.


    sir, so you mean 4d56, 4m40, and td42's are better since they have the dual filter set up?

  15. Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    1,961
    #15
    Quote Originally Posted by crazy_boy View Post
    sir, so you mean 4d56, 4m40, and td42's are better since they have the dual filter set up?
    Better than a standard single filter system, but then again if your using low quality filters that can't filter efficiency then the difference is not much difference. But in theory it should work. The TD42's that do have the dual system do use a bypass system, They also have two different filter threads one is 3/4 16 and the other is 1-12UNF kinda weird. But I guess it keeps you from mixing up the full flow and the bypass filter.

  16. Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    1,990
    #16
    One more thing: How about the pressure loss after passing through the dual filtration system? Is it still within the acceptable pressure readings?

    No doubt bibili ako ng magandang klaseng filter kung may available. Magkano lang naman. Ang problema ay wala masyado kaya regular change na lang.

    Mabuksan nga sa weekend yung Vic na gamit na sa bahay. I'll check the internals kung ano klaseng material ang ginamit.

  17. Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    9,431
    #17
    Quote Originally Posted by dvldoc View Post
    Better than a standard single filter system, but then again if your using low quality filters that can't filter efficiency then the difference is not much difference. But in theory it should work. The TD42's that do have the dual system do use a bypass system, They also have two different filter threads one is 3/4 16 and the other is 1-12UNF kinda weird. But I guess it keeps you from mixing up the full flow and the bypass filter.
    how about for 4D56 and 4M40, when you said combo filter, it doesnt have the dual filter right?

    sir, i have a 4M40 motor, please expound. because we only change 1 oil filter everytime this is a very interesting topic


    PS, do you plan to do a fuel filter study as well?

  18. Join Date
    May 2009
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    1,990
    #18
    Quote Originally Posted by crazy_boy View Post
    sir, so you mean 4d56, 4m40, and td42's are better since they have the dual filter set up?
    single filter lang naman ang mga ito pero ang sinasabi is pwede imodify to a dual set-up....

    Actually, about 1 liter or a little bit greater than 1 liter ang nagcicirculate sa engine (ang usual order of lubrication is: oil pan-oil pump-crankshaft/piston-camshaft/rocker arms-oil pan). Oil cooler comes into play when the operating temp is achieved.

    Eh bakit 4-6 liters ang usually kinakarga? the primary reason is cooling of the oil (aside from the dedicated oil cooler). The greater the oil, the greater time for the oil to dissipate the heat absorbed from metals grinding other metals.

    Therefore, if you install dual filters dadami din ang kelangan mo na oil and so on aside from the fact na mas marami ang "screen" na magfifilter ng dumi sa oil..

  19. Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    1,961
    #19
    Quote Originally Posted by crazy_boy View Post
    sir, so you mean 4d56, 4m40, and td42's are better since they have the dual filter set up?
    Quote Originally Posted by miked View Post
    One more thing: How about the pressure loss after passing through the dual filtration system? Is it still within the acceptable pressure readings?

    No doubt bibili ako ng magandang klaseng filter kung may available. Magkano lang naman. Ang problema ay wala masyado kaya regular change na lang.

    Mabuksan nga sa weekend yung Vic na gamit na sa bahay. I'll check the internals kung ano klaseng material ang ginamit.
    You may loose a psi or 2 but nothing that is outside the norm. Most higher quality filter actually flow better. We just did this on my co-workers F250 6.0 liter turbo diesel, he had no pressure loss. This is a very common filter mod.

  20. Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    409
    #20
    as a side note baldwin filters are available here in the Philippines. I use their oil and fuel filter.

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Remote bypass oil filtration