Remote bypass oil filtration

[impulzz]

[LIST][*]Removes small particles and soot[*]Extends engine life[*]Increases oil capacity[*]Extends oil change interval[*]Reduces engine wear

Good day Sir Dvldoc,

since this system filters the oil better... my understanding is , clean oil=clean engine=cleaner exhaust gases...

how much would a system like this cost for a japanese van like a toyota hiace 2L diesel engine. and are the high grade filters locally available here too?

thanks and hope you can share more tips here

[dagol]

Hindi nila mabenta yan dito sa europe.Hindi basta basta maniniwala mga european dyan.Mas maraming natatakbo ang mga sasakyan dito kaysa sa U.S. dahil sa langis hindi sa special na filter. Dagdag gastosin pa yan,tsaka additional components na pwedeng magleak ng langis dahil siyempre maluluma din mga flexible hose, isama mo pa dyan ang vibration.Hindi rin nyan kayang patagalin ang buhay ng langis.Oxidation ang kalaban ng langis at walang filter ang makakapigil dito. Magaling sa marketing ang mga Kano,proven na sila dyan.

[dvldoc]

Good day Sir Dvldoc,

since this system filters the oil better... my understanding is , clean oil=clean engine=cleaner exhaust gases...

how much would a system like this cost for a japanese van like a toyota hiace 2L diesel engine. and are the high grade filters locally available here too?

thanks and hope you can share more tips here

Your crank vent system puts dirty oil and soot back into your air
intake, That goes back through the engine then out your exhaust. Oil
catch can pretty much gets rid of that effect.



As far as I know you can get mobil1, and K&N filters there in the
Philippines. I am not aware of all after market brands there. I will say
stay away from VIC filters.



Here is some testing from a car magazine. Most filters there that I have
seen are about the quality level of Fram if they are not a U.S brand.
And we call Fram the orange can of death here.

The set up's cost around 150USD for a dual kit and less than 100 for a single remote kit which just adds a bypass filter.

Or you can just get a quality filter and do regular oil changes. Fleetguards and the ones in that upper level are good for 15000Klm between oil changes.

It's not marketing just simple fact proven with engine oil testing by 1000's of people. Here in the states these set up's are pretty common on our V8 turbo diesels, If you have a 10000 engine you want to protect it. Same thing goes for Semi trucks for fleet service there is a reason they run bypass set ups and carry brands like Fleetguard, Baldwin, Donaldson ect, because it reduces operating cost for the company.

If you have a friend that's state side they can easily pick this stuff up for you. I shipped over my filters before my last trip to replace the stock VIC that was on mine. Or wait until next year then getting these will be no problem :thumbup:

Some test done by a car mag that has VIC included, It did poorly.

The spacing will probably get screwed up as soon as I post this.

Results in short:

Champion C138 Very good
Clean DO 851 Very good (with size reservations)
Biltema 502077 Good (with size reservations)
Purolator Micronic Good
Teho OK 174 Good (with reservations)
Fram PH 4967 Satisfactory
Motorcraft EFL391 Satisfactory
Mann W68/80 Passable
M-Filter MH 3347 Passable
Toyota 90915-10001 Inferior
Vic C-110 Inferior

"Clean" filter was was wider than others, and "Biltema" longer.


What did they test?

1) Filtration

Filters were tested with a test equipment conforming to standard ISO 4572.
The test oil was recirculated through the filter, and dirt was continuously
added to it. The test dirt consisted of particles smaller than 200 micrometers.
I've picked the figures below from the graphs on the magazine. 15 mg of
dirt was added to each liter of oil passed through the system. Oil flow
rate was 25 liters per minute.

After 5 minutes, % of each particle size [micrometers] filtered:
40 30 20 10

Champion 98 91 64 19
Clean 99 91 66 16
Biltema 99 91 62 16
Purolator 97 86 60 11
Teho 96 89 61 17
Fram 98 87 55 9
Motorcraft 99 90 61 12
Mann 98 88 56 10
M-Filter 96 85 50 10
Toyota 88 77 31 0
Vic 87 71 39 4

After 10 minutes, % of each particle size [micrometers] filtered:
40 30 20 10

Champion 97 90 63 18
Clean 97 91 62 13
Biltema 95 88 56 11
Purolator 97 82 52 9
Teho 98 86 56 15
Fram 97 85 51 5
Motorcraft 97 92 62 16
Mann 96 83 50 7
M-Filter 94 80 47 9
Toyota 81 60 25 1
Vic 81 68 39 4


time until blocked (bypass valve opens):

Champion 16-18 min
Clean 21-23 min
Biltema 29-33 min
Purolator 22-26 min
Teho 16-18 min
Fram 22-26 min
Motorcraft 13-15 min
Mann 25-27 min
M-Filter 19-27 min
Toyota 16-23 min
Vic 20-20 min



2) Anti-drainback valve operation

All except Vic held the oil.

You can test this yourself, if you want. Find a bolt that fits on the
thread in the filter, fill the filter with oil, and with the bolt
screwed in, turn the filter to its side, like it is on the engine
block. Does it leak?

3) Bypass valve operation

Some filters leaked slightly through the bypass valve early before
the filter elements were blocked, but at worst only 22ml/min.
Compare that to the 25000ml/min total flow in the test, and you
see that it is totally insignificant.

[miked]

As far as I know you can get mobil1, and K&N filters there in the
Philippines. I am not aware of all after market brands there. I will say
stay away from VIC filters. VIC ang mostly available na pinakamaganda sa lugar namin lalu na probinsya...may bosch pero andami rin japeyks.

Here is some testing from a car magazine. Most filters there that I have
seen are about the quality level of Fram if they are not a U.S brand.
And we call Fram the orange can of death here.

Some test done by a car mag that has VIC included, It did poorly. Anong mag po ito sir? American magazine ba?

What I do is regular oil change (mineral blend).....every other oil change ang palit filter. Light duty pickup truck with 220k miles on the odometer......

[dvldoc]

Diesels are tough, when talking about engines like Cummins were talking going millions of miles on the same motor on big rigs.

The question is using cheap filters is how much compression have you lost over time, how worn are your internals and how efficient is your engine still running.

Cheap filters like Fram for example collapes all the time leaving oil unfiltered.


Poor made filters like this OEM Honda with the typical cardboard end caps have cheap glue that breaks down and allows unfiltered oil to run through. Really not what I want to run on my POV.



How well do you think this is going to hold up.


You at least want your filter to have a metal end cap on both ends that covers the whole filter and a metal center tube so it does not collapse under pressure and a decent bypass valve in case it gets plugged and a good anti drain back valve so you don't have dry starts.

Filters should look like this after a average oil change. The one in the middle is a OEM Subaru made by Tokyo Roki.









The question is is do you want a filter that is this weak protecting your engine. Especially on a newer vehicle, These are big investments and repairs can be costly.


Nothing wrong with the basic filters as long as they meet the minum standards, they are fine for normal duration oil changes and that is no more than 8000klm. You should change the filter after that for sure.

But VIC filtration is below par

[Ry_Tower]

What i do is changed oil, oil filter and fuel filter for peace of mind every 5,000 kms. Only VIC is widely distributed that is good enough. Bosch also has poor distribution in the provinces kasi.

I also installed OCC to ensure cleaner turbo and prevent dirty oil and soot from coming back to the engine.

What i don't understand is why OEM oil filters perform poorly? Any tech guys here from one of the car manufacturers care to enlighten us?

[dvldoc]

What i do is changed oil, oil filter and fuel filter for peace of mind every 5,000 kms. Only VIC is widely distributed that is good enough. Bosch also has poor distribution in the provinces kasi.

I also installed OCC to ensure cleaner turbo and prevent dirty oil and soot from coming back to the engine.

What i don't understand is why OEM oil filters perform poorly? Any tech guys here from one of the car manufacturers care to enlighten us?

A oil catch can is a must and makes a world of difference.

Here's a quick clue about OEM, do you honestly think say Nissan wants your engine to last for double it's life. That's shooting themselves in the foot, they engineered this way for more frequent changes so you buy more filters and make more trips to the dealer to get them.

Lets look at this Nissan filter do you think they put a lot of design effort on these?







Of course not all OEM filters are of this poor quality but you get the point. This is not ment to be a tough filter just good enough to make it from oil change to oil change. The aftermarket is out there to provide a better product for better protection of your engine. This filter can be torn with no effort at all, heck it's not even Cellulose it's some kind of foam.

[Ry_Tower]

^ looks like its a good filter as per dvldocs post

Champion Labs

Bosch
Car and Driver
Deutsch
Mobil 1
STP
SuperTech
K&N
Luberfiner
Trust

[blue_gambit]

^ looks like its a good filter as per dvldocs post

How good rt? Good like baldwin and fleetguard? Up to how many microns can it filter?

[Ry_Tower]

^ I forgot kung saan ko nabasa but 20 micron rating afaik. In Bitog it is on par with Baldwin and fleetguard.

[raycon_24]

hi just wanna ask if baldwin b179 is the correct filter for my honda civic esi 93 1.6 liter..... yan kasi binigay ng volmax sa akin

[number001]

hi just wanna ask if baldwin b179 is the correct filter for my honda civic esi 93 1.6 liter..... yan kasi binigay ng volmax sa akin

Ask for B1402.

B179 is wider by just a bit but shorter than B1402.

[bogartbaby]

Higher end synthetic fiber filters which are great for a bypass filter set up

[vinj]

Just an observation. I started using the Baldwin BT223 on our 22-year old Sentra with 130,000kms on the odo. It's still using the original timing chain amd tensioners and I noticed that the slight cold start-up chain clatter went away after a couple of thousand kms with the BT223 and Delo.

[miked]

Just an observation. I started using the Baldwin BT223 on our 22-year old Sentra with 130,000kms on the odo. It's still using the original timing chain amd tensioners and I noticed that the slight cold start-up chain clatter went away after a couple of thousand kms with the BT223 and Delo.

nawala naman yung sinok (parang nalalagutan ba ng hininga) around 2.5 to 2.7k rpm nung makina nung gumamit ako ng baldwin oil and fuel filter atsaka mobil mx engine oil....ngayon, kaya na umabot ng 3k rpm ng walang drama.