to the honorable ncp members,
Thanks po sa mga inputs nyo really helped me a lot just changed my 4x2 continental tires to bridgestone dueler 245/16/70. i really felt the improvement sa ride and comfort lalo n sa mga lubak... Thanks! if ok lang po i have two more
concerns... If i may ask po?
1. where po kaya merong cheaper 2" lift? say 10k to 15k? if there are any.....
2. what po specs and brand ang ginagamit ng 4x2's for there stock fuel filters? may available po ba sa banaue or other auto supply? Maraming salamat po! MOre power NCP!
Hello sir, try to send a PM to OJ. I got my 2 inch suspension lift from him. Great improvement in terms of riding comfort.
With regards to the oil filter, you can try youngbros, nisparts at banawe. What i can suggest to still use the original oil filter. Im not quite sure if there are any fake oil filyers for nissan but just to be sure you can get one at any dealership tgen compare tge one you got from the dealership to the ones selling at banawe. The vic brand is a good replacement oil filter but i cant say more since i havent try this on my truck.
4x2 & 4x4 uses the same fuel filters
Primary Fuel Filter (besides ABS servo) - dont know the brand but its made in Japan or Thailand with part number 16403-06J0A. Almost same with older frontiers and patrol PN# 16405-01T70 w/c directly cross with Donaldson P502167.. I recommend the original PN# over the replacements.
Secondary (the one with priming pump) - OE PART# 16403-7F40A, made by Mann and Hummel PN#Mann WK 940/22. No known aftermarket replacement yet.
They are available at most Nissan shops in Banawe, but i recommend Nisman in Masangkay - they usually stock these filteres and are always new..
con't DIY Fluid change.. M/T Gear oiL replacement:
1. Drain gearbox
2. Use appropriate gasket. note-casa gasket is aluminum, i replaced it with rubberized copper.
3. Install back drain plug, torque to specs & fill in new oyL, done!
4. Compare the used and new gear oil, take a deep breath and congratulate yourself for giving your Nav a TLC.
Materials specs:
Drain/Refill plug removal tool - Allen key 10mm
Drain/Refill plug Torque: 34.5N.m
Drain/Refill Washer type: 25mm outer, 21.5mm inner hole
Gear Oil: Motul Gear300 Ester based Fully synthetic 75w90 API GL4/5. note- recommended on manual is 75w85 GL4 but i was'nt able to find any so i just followed motul's recommendation, here's the link http://ew5.earlweb.com/recommendatio...age=5&brand=45
PS oil and brake/clutch to follow, still extracting from mem card.
[QUOTE=AKI125;1889491]Hello sir, try to send a PM to OJ. I got my 2 inch suspension lift from him. Great improvement in terms of riding comfort.
sir how much po inabot? and where did you have it installed?Thanks so much God Bless
Ma'am/ Sir?
Check the site i posted above, these are the approximate capacities..
ohh letme post it na lang..
There are minor discrepancies with the manual. Rear Axle oil is 2.01L asper service manual, but when i poured 2L it almost overflowed.. Gear oiL says 3.99L asper user manual but the 4Liters i poured inside seems tobe 0.5cm below the lip of the filler.
All Fluid change is normally done every 40k kms. For severe cases 30k is recommended.. 40k was done by my casa and i have a strong feeling that they didnt changed the coolant, axle oil, brake/clutch, & power-steering fluid..
Last edited by 12vdc; March 13th, 2012 at 08:58 PM.
* bro 12vdc: maaga ata bakasyon ah? or reserve mo vacation time para sa mga "mods"? :D
Bro Peds.. Few weeks back ko pa ginawa yan, alarming kasi ang condition ng coolant parang molds na dumadami.. Sinabay kona kasi nasa 80k kms mark na rin. Mapapalaban ulit sa long hot-summer drive si Nav eh..hehe
DIY continued.. Power Steering Fluid flush
1. Prepare a sucking machine. Hand-pump, vacuum pump, or if you have an evacuator the better.. I used whats available in the med kit, a 10cc syringe retrofitted with an aquarium hose..
2. Suck fluids until it reached the screen on the buttom.. Pay attention to trapped dirt and soil in the screen, sucking the dirt out untill filter is clean.. Refill with new fluid while doing this, in between the refill process, run the engine and turn the wheel to full L-R lock-to-lock(jack up to lessen load on fron tyres) the old oil from the steering rack should mix or circulate with the new fluid.. Repeat the sucking and purging process untill the fluid is clean as fresh fluid.
3. PS reservoir should be red as a clean PS fluid.
4. Compare the used and flushed fluid.. Smell the difference, old fluid smells like burnt oyL.
Materials specs:
- sucking machine
- Dexron III PS fluid
- tissue paper
note -do not remove any plumbing on the system because air might enter the rack. If this happens, a TRRRRR sound will be heared when engine is running, though its easy to bleed the air better not touch any plumbing esp the high-pressure solid lines..
DIY Clutch & Brake Fluid flush..
1. Locate the slave clutch actuator, (its just beneath the gearbox).. Let somebody step on the clutch while untightening the bleeder.. Use a plastic tube or similar to collect used fluid.. Lock the bleeder nut after some fluids come out, your partner should de-press the pedal.. Repeat the process of press-depress pedal, untighten-tighten bleeder untill fresh fluid comes out. Add fluid to reservoir when it reached the buttom part..
2. Same process as above for the brakes but follow the pattern of bleeding as follows. Rear Right - Front Left - Rear Left - Front Right. After completing bleed process your reservoir should look clear(not rusty color) just like when your truck is still new..
Compare the used and new fluids (from pic L to R, used fluid - semi flushed - new fluid - Brake fluid bottle)
Materials specs:
- DOT 3 brake fluid
- flare nut wrench 8mm for clutch & rear-brake bleeder, 10mm for front brake-bleeder
Last edited by 12vdc; March 13th, 2012 at 10:01 PM.
*bianca&stacey: 10k siya then i had it installed at my uncles shop, wheelers suspension haus. Labor, camber and alignment and additional machining cost 2k. Grand total of 12k
*12vdc: why not dot 4 bro? i used around 3 liters, i think, including flush and bleed. reverse filled it also so no bubbles
Manuel says dont mix 3 & 4. In case of of breakdown in the middle of the road, DOT3 is available everywhere..
For resing resing na yata ang DOT 4 & 5 bro..hehe
How do you do the reverse flush, using a transfer machine?
For me its better to bleed it from top to bottom. Buttom parts is where it boils subjected to heat and degredation. Dirt and deposits usually tend to collect in the buttom thats why initial bleeding fluids ar dark with solid particles. I consumed about 1.2 Liters for the whole process. Not totally replace but just flush the most dirty fluids. Anyway i will flush again when i replae the caliper sliding pin.. The replacement pin is with me for about a year na..Tamad lang ako magbaklas pa, baka isabay konarin sa camber magpapalit din kasi ako ng goma..
BTW sa mga A/T, balita ko mayproblema ang radiator at ATF cooler- nag mmix sa ATF ang coolant.. May incident naba locally neto?
^^^
yun 40k PMS ko no sign of any mixture of coolant and matic j fluid. Yun lang medyo mahal yun matic j per liter
^^^ Pag naging milky pink guava juice color na daw ang coolant, prepare your tranny na for a flush or overhaul.. Something to do daw with defect of radiator MaticJ eating yellowmetals. Symptoms can occur as late as 100+k. Ive just read somewhere theyre doing silent recall together with the timing chain tensioneer issue sa 4banger gas engines..