Nissan Frontier Navara [continued]

[cydepx44]

switching back to my original tires last week.

funny though, with racechip + smaller tire = super fast nav

yeah for sure, pati fc mo gaganda. even switching to 245/50-20's will give good performance gain. masyado mabigat 265/50-20's. that's why i scratched my plans to participate in the clark drag's this weekend. kung dumating sana yung water meth injection..., haiz... well there's always february...

[cydepx44]

* Sir Albert:

Navara Turbo Intake Hose problems? here's a simple and cheap mod i found to prevent those "yupi hose" moments:

1st step is to clean the hose thoroughly of oil, dust, and other contaminants...

... then form a few rings (i used g. i. wire because that was available, but spring wire i think would be better) the same diameter as the hose. no need to bother tieing up the ends of the wire, just make it so that the ends touch each other...


then use silicone (i prefer to use gasket maker silicone) to hold the rings in place and to protect the hose from puncture:


let the silicone dry then test! so far, this mod has held up to my use and abuse for 5,000 km already. hope this helps!

[casper357]

pa help po.. kakabili lng ka c namin ngayon ng navara 08 san po yong switch ng fog lamp? d ko ka c mkita salamat in advance.

[12vdc]

so far, this mod has held up to my use and abuse for 5,000 km already. hope this helps!

Ayos bro yang mod na yan, gawin ko din kung maencounter ko ang problem. Wala pa ba permanent solution sa casa??

pa help po.. kakabili lng ka c namin ngayon ng navara 08 san po yong switch ng fog lamp? d ko ka c mkita salamat in advance.

Fog light switch is located at the mid position of left stalk(besides headlight switch)

[casper357]

*12vdc

salamt po sa tulong nakita ko na po.

[cydepx44]

Ayos bro yang mod na yan, gawin ko din kung maencounter ko ang problem. Wala pa ba permanent solution sa casa??

papalitan lang nila ng ganyan din kalambot na hose ... eh ang problem nasa air filter and air filter box - kung bakit kasi hindi na lang ginaya yung sa spain built navara

[ikalinga]

gud day nav owners! ask ko lng po if whats the best engine oil for our nav? im almost 10k na kc, now im planning to buy my own engine oil and let royce motors do the labor..tnx po.

[12vdc]

gud day nav owners! ask ko lng po if whats the best engine oil for our nav? im almost 10k na kc, now im planning to buy my own engine oil and let royce motors do the labor..tnx po.

Motul Specific CRDI 5W/40 ACEA:B4 API: SL
I started using this at 15k kms

Or you may want to try this newer oil with latest ACEA developments


Mobil1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5w40
[SIZE=2]API CJ-4, CI-4 PLUS/CI-4/CH-4/CG-4/ SM/SL/SJ, ACEA: E7[/SIZE]

[SIZE=2]For me i'L stick with Motul. It has the lowest wear indicator based from ACEA: [/SIZE]

[ikalinga]

*12vdc- tnx a lot sir sa info.. mag motul din ako kc tested nyo na.. 9200 palang mileage ko so pwede pa ako luwas manila nxt week to buy motul..san ba mura makabili sir?

[mazzipino]

Motul Specific CRDI 5W/40 ACEA:B4 API: SL
I started using this at 15k kms

Notice any improvements? How much did you get 7litres for? My 15k kms is also approaching and I'm weighing up my options.

TIA!

[locoroco777]

[SIZE=2]For me i'L stick with Motul. It has the lowest wear indicator based from ACEA: [/SIZE]

thanks for this one sir...

Just a few of questions regarding the graph...

Do you have legend regarding this graph? because I can't seem to get which is better, the nearer to the center or the farther from it? But if you know and if it isn't too much to ask feel free to explain...

Second is that how come theres no corrosion bracket in the B4 rating unlike with the E7?

and lastly where did you get it from the site ACEA? because my computer demons is at me again and I can't seem to find it....


thanks a lot!

[12vdc]

*ikalinga, i suggest use casa oil muna. Sa 15k kms ka na mag fully- synthetic para synchronized sa PMS manual. Kung mapapansin mo ang warranty booklet, ang change oil is lahat ending sa 5 like 5k, 15k, 25k, 35k, etc..

BTW i also tried Royal Purple, pero mas kampante ako sa Motul.. Hindi ko alam ang API/ ACEA rating nung 5w/40 nila.

*mazzipino - Mas smooth.. Pero smoother nung mnix ko ang Mineral 2T oil sa diesel.. hehe.. Pero grabe talaga makapaitim ng oil ang EGR, ilang kilometro palang itim na ang oil..But thats also an indicator na your oil is doing its job, absorbing the acids thru the detergents..

Heres the shop na na-try ko kumuha ng Motul.. Share nalang ang iba dyan kung may alam pa kayo. Hindi nagkakalayo ang presyo 2350 per 4liters( gallon), pero kaya mag discount kung kilala nyo..hehe.. I sugest 8 liters kunin nyo pang top-up yung remaining.

Speedlab (Forceworks Inc., 871 Quezon Ave., QC Tel# 376 - 4648 / 4651
Automax Detailing Corp., 3637 Bautista St., Brgy. Palanan, MAkati / Tels# 834 - 6902, 804 - 0901
Motorcraft, #713 NS Amoranto cor. Cresta St., Tels# 414 - 8633 / 711 - 3221
AutoPlus Sportzentrium, 233 EDSA Mandaluyong City, Tel# 726 - 0399

[12vdc]

thanks for this one sir...

Just a few of questions regarding the graph...

Do you have legend regarding this graph? because I can't seem to get which is better, the nearer to the center or the farther from it? But if you know and if it isn't too much to ask feel free to explain...

Second is that how come theres no corrosion bracket in the B4 rating unlike with the E7?

and lastly where did you get it from the site ACEA? because my computer demons is at me again and I can't seem to find it....


thanks a lot!

The farther the better bro.. Its a company from Europe that test oils.. Hindi nga lahat na-cover ng test, dahil siguro differet time ginawa ang test. Heres the link http://www.lubrizol.com/Products3column.aspx?id=34976

[casper357]

*all

sir pa help anu po ung tumotonog sa engine pag na on ung ac ng aircon? prang my sumisirit? cnu po naka experience nito?

[locoroco777]

The farther the better bro.. Its a company from Europe that test oils.. Hindi nga lahat na-cover ng test, dahil siguro differet time ginawa ang test. Heres the link http://www.lubrizol.com/Products3column.aspx?id=34976

thanks for the link sir...

apparently I've been reading all about this Diesel engine oils for sometime now and this is the first time I've seen the ACEA standardization with graphs like you posted from lubrizol..a big thanks to you for that...it sort of put a relief on me because I'm a motul user too...

Now to carry on, from the materials I've read from the net, mostly from the US specifically the American Petroleum Institute(API) the superior oil from the two were talking about is the Mobil 1 TDT having been rated as a CJ-4, now with regards with motul Crdi Specific its is quite opposite to ACEA because it isn't even rated as a diesel engine oil and whats worst is the rating that was given to it is SL which is the second highest rating for (take note) gasoline engines...

thats according to this API document http://www.api.org/certifications/en..._March2010.pdf

but its totally different as what we've earlier with regards to API's European counterpart which is ACEA which has done almost the same thing as API but the difference is that its favoring Motul...

Actually, I'm already planning shift on Mobil1 until your posted the link regarding ACEA....So I guess I think I should read more about this things on engine oil to be able to make the better choice...

Now, I'm now torn between with this two brands because like most of us in this forum I always opt for the best that I could give to my truck for it to serve me well....


Thanks again for posting it...and please do refer also on the API writeup its also a good read...

BTW, whats the recommended oil grade for the YD25 that is written on the manual?

[Wh1stl3r]

*locoroco777
Sir for the yd25 engine it says 5w-30 is preferable although some suspect that this was lifted from the Spain Navaras manual.

Medyo nalilito rin ako dito. For me it makes sense to get the highest API/ACEA rated oil with the recommended viscosity. After reading BITOG and a few headaches, I've decided on Xw-Y viscosity, X being 0 or 5 and Y being 30 or 40.

What do you guys think about Motul being ester based and Mobil 1 being group IV synthetic? From what I read kasi the ester based oils, while having the best base stocks, can't get the best additive packs because these are also made from group IV base stocks. Does that mean a good ester based oil like Motul will degrade (with use) faster than a good group IV oil like Mobil 1?

I saw 5L jugs of Motul at a nearby Blade store. 2,000 lang per container. Dapat pala pinakyaw ko na hehe.

*casper
The hissing sound at starting up the aircon is there to stay. It's an expansion valve daw sabi ng casa. I guess because its more of a nuisance than a serious problem they chose to ignore it altogether.

[locoroco777]

wala bang nakalagay dun sa manual na yun yung recommended ng NMPI or UMC?

kasi most sites kasi na nakikita ko laging ang sinasabi is dapat daw always refer with the manual kasi daw yung manufacturer ang magdedecide kung ano yung approve for local conditions....like sa 4m41 ang recommended ng MMPC is 15w40...pero ang punto ko nalang dito kasi is what recommended may not always be the best hehe...which is proven ko naman kasi mag 60k kms na ko maganda parin ang andar...

with regards with the oil naman...I think yung Y being 30 is to thin na...kasi like yung sa mobil1 na 5w40 may characteristic parin daw yun ng 15w40 but a better blend so pwede parin magamit dun sa mga engine na may requirement talaga ng 15w40... kasi AFAIK meron pa din mga engine na strictly required ang 15w40 na grade...

dun naman sa Motul being ester based, actually lately ko lang rin nalaman na ester based ang motul, dati kasi yan lang yung nakita kong Crdi specific so syempre name palang nakaka attract na so yun na binili ko hehe...

but technically, parang contradicting yun sa pagiging synthetic diba? kasi Ester is organic based tapos ilele-label ng fully synthetic? IMO parang it destroys the whole idea of the synthetic oil..kahit na ba kasi sabihin na pinuno ng additives yan to reach the standard of fully synthetic, fact is theres still the organic part of it and it is in everyones knowledge that it can degrade at a much faster time...hehe medyo nalalabuan na talaga ako eh hehe...to think that I've been using it for the past 3 years....kaya napapaisip na din akong mag switch ng brand...

sana may petroleum engineer dito sa tsikot na pwedeng mapagtanungan regarding this...

BTW Hanggang ngayun ba meron pa rin nun sa blade? hehe kung ganun ang presyo kahit 7 to 8k kms lang pwede na change oil agad hehe

[Wh1stl3r]

wala bang nakalagay dun sa manual na yun yung recommended ng NMPI or UMC?

kasi most sites kasi na nakikita ko laging ang sinasabi is dapat daw always refer with the manual kasi daw yung manufacturer ang magdedecide kung ano yung approve for local conditions....like sa 4m41 ang recommended ng MMPC is 15w40...pero ang punto ko nalang dito kasi is what recommended may not always be the best hehe...which is proven ko naman kasi mag 60k kms na ko maganda parin ang andar...

with regards with the oil naman...I think yung Y being 30 is to thin na...kasi like yung sa mobil1 na 5w40 may characteristic parin daw yun ng 15w40 but a better blend so pwede parin magamit dun sa mga engine na may requirement talaga ng 15w40... kasi AFAIK meron pa din mga engine na strictly required ang 15w40 na grade...

dun naman sa Motul being ester based, actually lately ko lang rin nalaman na ester based ang motul, dati kasi yan lang yung nakita kong Crdi specific so syempre name palang nakaka attract na so yun na binili ko hehe...

but technically, parang contradicting yun sa pagiging synthetic diba? kasi Ester is organic based tapos ilele-label ng fully synthetic? IMO parang it destroys the whole idea of the synthetic oil..kahit na ba kasi sabihin na pinuno ng additives yan to reach the standard of fully synthetic, fact is theres still the organic part of it and it is in everyones knowledge that it can degrade at a much faster time...hehe medyo nalalabuan na talaga ako eh hehe...to think that I've been using it for the past 3 years....kaya napapaisip na din akong mag switch ng brand...

sana may petroleum engineer dito sa tsikot na pwedeng mapagtanungan regarding this...

BTW Hanggang ngayun ba meron pa rin nun sa blade? hehe kung ganun ang presyo kahit 7 to 8k kms lang pwede na change oil agad hehe

Bro UMC specifies using their house oil for the YD25, a 15w-40 dino oil from Total. For some reason ayaw nila ng synthetic . If tama pagkaintindi ko the we should get the lowest winter numbered oil we can get so our engines are better protected during cold starts. Pagdating kasi sa normal operating temps the viscosity will be the last number. As for oil with viscosity of 30 sabi nila matipid daw ito sa fuel dahil hindi hirap yung makina kasi manipis. Di ko lang alam kung ano ang long term effect sa engine.

Re: esters I didn't know that, I thought pag ester based gawa sa laboratory yung base stock. Makapagbasa nga ulit.

Maganda yung post ni sir 12vdc regarding wear metals. I just wonder if we should base our choice of oil solely on what the API or ACEA says. Ok nga sana kung may makilala tayong petroleum engineer na walang stake sa mga motor oils na yan.

Yup nanlaki nga mata ko nung nakita ko yung murang Motul na yun, napaisip ako baka fake kaya mura hehe. Lalabas 400/L. Bilhin ko na ba? BTW anong oil change interval mo sa Motul?

[cydepx44]

the engine oils that nissan uses on the navara depends on who ever gives them the better deal. i've seen different dealers use different brands during a span of several pms, and i've seen quite a lot of changed oils already.

[locoroco777]

Bro UMC specifies using their house oil for the YD25, a 15w-40 dino oil from Total. For some reason ayaw nila ng synthetic . If tama pagkaintindi ko the we should get the lowest winter numbered oil we can get so our engines are better protected during cold starts. Pagdating kasi sa normal operating temps the viscosity will be the last number. As for oil with viscosity of 30 sabi nila matipid daw ito sa fuel dahil hindi hirap yung makina kasi manipis. Di ko lang alam kung ano ang long term effect sa engine.

Re: esters I didn't know that, I thought pag ester based gawa sa laboratory yung base stock. Makapagbasa nga ulit.

Maganda yung post ni sir 12vdc regarding wear metals. I just wonder if we should base our choice of oil solely on what the API or ACEA says. Ok nga sana kung may makilala tayong petroleum engineer na walang stake sa mga motor oils na yan.

Yup nanlaki nga mata ko nung nakita ko yung murang Motul na yun, napaisip ako baka fake kaya mura hehe. Lalabas 400/L. Bilhin ko na ba? : BTW anong oil change interval mo sa Motul?

hehe sa mitsu BS din eh, isipin mo yung 15w50(turboxp) nila labeled as fully synthetic.... regarding naman dun sa winter number, yup pareho din tayo ng pagkakaintindi na mainam sa cold start, pero ang sabi naman ng mga casa ng mitsu samin mas applicable daw kasi dahil sa mainit dito at kung ano ano pang BS...nakakainis din minsan eh hehe....pero siguro after 80k or 90k kms mag downgrade na din siguro ako ng viscosity kasi malalaki na for sure yung clearance ng mga piston...inde na daw kasi ok kapag mababa ang winter temp kapag malaki na ang clearance at this kind of weather that were experiencing..

dun naman sa ester oils being organically based, may nabasa din kasi ako regarding don pero unofficial findings....unlike dun sa API and ACEA....di ko lang makita ulit yung article eh...pero nung naghanap ako ng mga details dun sa sinasabi muka namang credible, ewan ko lang din...hehe

actually may nababasa na ko dati dito na Petroleum engr. eh...kaso dun yata sya in line sa mismong gas and diesel and not the engine oil...pero siguro alam nya din itong sa mga engine oils...backread mode ako baka mahanap ko at mapagtanungan...


Baka naman pwede pa PM kung saang branch hehe...500kms nalang kasi 60k kms na ko hehe...hinde na ko mag shift pag ganyan presyo hehe