sir 12vdc, saan makabili dito sa pinas ng OAP removal/installation tool?
salamat, meron sa amazon pang US vehicle ok lang kaya yon sa Navara? thank you.
If your alternater is still using the old OAP made by NSK Japan with part number 6806D2, it has a 17mm hex with offset ring. The German INA OAP has its offset built-in and uses a 33-tooth spline.
Problem with the alternator, it has no counternut to lock the shaft when removing/installing the OAP(most alternator have a key in the center of the shaft). You will have to remove the rear cover(where regulator and rectifier assy is mounted), clamp the rotor to a table vise then use the breaker bar to drive the OAP removal tool.
Its a 17mm hex or 33-tooth spline drive you need. Madami sa sta. cruz alternator removal set ranging from P1k to 5k. I got a set lota brand 031-5006 it includes the 17mm hex, 33-spline, torx bits. Bought also 33-spline drive as spare, its a toptul JDBD3317.
BTW i have also a spare circuit brand, its a 17mm hex drive and has center cap/cover. I guess yung NSK kaya madali masira dahil walang cover, may water ingress sa bearing. The OEM 33-spline should last longer dahil may cover kaya i didnt bother stocking-up the orig.
Some more tips with the alternator:
MAW(might as well) replace part yung bearings esp if youre on higher K's. From service manual replace rear bearing everytime, but i recommend(based from experience) pati yung harap palitan.
Not on the manual but i documented somewhere OAP should be torqued at 74nM.
Guesstimates lang yung internals esp the front bearing retainer-i used impact drive and just enough force not to break the zinc housing.
Also pay attention not to touch the rectifier and regulator contacts if youre not strapped, they are electrostatic sensitive.
If in doubt with your DIY skills, pagawa na lang sa alternator shop.![]()
sir 12vdc, maraming salamat sa mga tips...
i'm not at par with your DIY skills so no option have it done with the right guys. bibili pa lang ako ng alternator bearing NSk, it seems costly dito compared sa bili mo they are the authorized dealer dito. naka bili lang ako ng OAP at di ko sure kong hex o 33 spline yong Navara 2010 model sana 33 spline na para swak yong nabili ko.
guys..... yong alternator hex pala tapos yong nabili kong OAP 33 spline, sinong gusto pm nalang, same cost sa pagbili ko.
salalmat.
Magagamit mo pa rin yan bro.. Hex din yung 2008 ko then pinalitan ng 33spline. Siguro from Thailand plant hex ang gamit while in EU ay spline. Sa AU kasi Thai and EU ang modelo ng Navara nila, may Japan pa nga yata(D22) RHD. Check mo yung post ko some 4yrs ago, hex yung luma then spline pinalit w/ pics..
Last edited by 12vdc; February 8th, 2015 at 10:30 AM.
nabasa ko na yong post mo tungkol sa OAP mo long time back, page 143 yon (save ko yong mga page na andoon yong mga DIY mo)
sir 12vdc, thank you very much! you're really an asset to the community and I owe you big time. Anyway I have inquired the seller if he has a hex OAP just in case.
*12vdc
Bro, where do you get your Donaldson primary filters?
Yep, let's hope 12vdc doesn't sell his D40 and get a new D23 hehe.
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*12vdc
Bro, where do you get your Donaldson primary filters?
Yep, let's hope 12vdc doesn't sell his D40 and get a new D23 hehe.
^ Paleeno bro sa intramuros. May website yta sila.. Wag kay Volmax ha, alam mo na.. Lol
^
Hehe thanks bro. Ang layo pala. Will call them tomorrow. Hope I can get from the warehouse, mas malapit lapit. Dating gawi pa rin ba sila doon? Di pa naman ako masyado magaling magtingin ng fakies ng Baldwin. I still get Baldwins for our trucks there.
I backread your post re: secondary fuel filter replacement Fleetguard FS19594. Tried one and I noticed right away that power was more responsive. Maybe due to less resistance of the filter element the fuel pressure increased. It vibrated a lot around 3TKms of use though. Now I'm back to Mann Hummel for the secondary filter.
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^
Hehe thanks bro. Ang layo pala. Will call them tomorrow. Hope I can get from the warehouse, mas malapit lapit. Dating gawi pa rin ba sila doon? Di pa naman ako masyado magaling magtingin ng fakies ng Baldwin. I still get Baldwins for our trucks there.
I backread your post re: secondary fuel filter replacement Fleetguard FS19594. Tried one and I noticed right away that power was more responsive. Maybe due to less resistance of the filter element the fuel pressure increased. It vibrated a lot around 3TKms of use though. Now I'm back to Mann Hummel for the secondary filter.
Pwede daw kunin sa QC yung Donaldson bro. Mas malapit lapit. Allergic ako sa Metro Manila traffic hehe.
Saan ka nagpapakarga ng fuel? Ang linis! I'll open mine up next time, kakapalit ko lang kasi. Back to OEM na ako for the secondary.
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Pwede daw kunin sa QC yung Donaldson bro. Mas malapit lapit. Allergic ako sa Metro Manila traffic hehe.
Saan ka nagpapakarga ng fuel? Ang linis! I'll open mine up next time, kakapalit ko lang kasi. Back to OEM na ako for the secondary.
Wild guess. Shell v power nitro yan. Yung aken din after 10k of use ang linis. Nakakatuwang Nakakatakot hahaha
*Leo, 900sh kay Paleeno, 600sh kay Volmax, dunno now since matagal na rin yun. Hindi ko pa napuntahan yung sa antipolo st., inuubos ko pa yung stock na OEM from nissman. Air filter is replacement, AGL brand..
*jay, wala specific brand, kung saan abutin doon kinakargahan. Nataon lang kilala ko yung stations in the area-using new pumps and not flood prone.
Sa Nissman din bro, pero wala yata stock. Ang pinalit ay Fleetmax at Win brand.
I remember that Filters1001 sa Pasay ko yta nabili.
Pretty good for 5k kms use, at P250 its value for money.
Try Federal Mogul, cellulose media but i also recommend this for 5k kms use.
My criteria for replacement filter is the build quality. Element should not sag or disintegrate(causing turbo damage), and rubber gaskets should seat very well on the air cleaner housing. Meron kasi warped gasket, tendency is to leak.
I remember this pic way back when i rack up many k's in a year. Notice how the asphaltines creep up.. Depende talaga sa severity of use and where we fuel up.
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