Nissan Frontier Navara [continued]

[12vdc]

^
sir Wh1stl3r, thank you.

yes! I think the dimensions are; 163.4 mm x 53.6 mm x 15.8 mm. yong rotor ng thai build navara is 296 mm in diameter?

Yes, nagkaiba lang sa hub height. Spanish 38.3mm (Sumitomo), while Thai at larger 53mm (Tokico). Naglabas din ng 320mm rear/front rotor pero discontinued na ito, gamit ito sa R51 pathfinder.

Around 50k kms yata yung hitachi bago ko napalitan ng kmi

[rzeraus]

^
sir 12vdc, thank you...

the guy at nissan (authorized re-seller) showed me two different part number; a D1060-JR70A and a D1060-EB326. It cost P3000.00 plus and said the D1060-JR70A made in the US.

[12vdc]

Sulit na kung p3k sa original basta with shims included dapat. Correct part is D1060-JR70A.


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[12vdc]

Hmm.. I'm now confused with the part numbers..

My 2008 Thai D40 with 296mm rotors had this Nissan brakepad Hitachi HP65H FF/ PN#GM702 GM701, it got 2 slots/partition..



I replaced it with KMI Compact PN# PJN-702MC with OE PN# OEM D1060-JR70A. This pad has only 1 slot/partition but the backplate, tabs, dimensions were all the same with the Hitachi.



Looking at fast catalog, there are 2 part numbers for D40 - PN# is D1060-EB71A and PN# OEM D1060-JR70A. Now take a look closely at the material construction.. Former got 2-line partition, latter got 1 center partition but same tab/ backplate construction.





I bought a spare Bendix 1835 GCT, this one has 2 slot/partition but with the same dimensions of the original Hitachi.

Looking at Bendix cross-reference..

DB1835 2slots/partition
Catalogue | Bendix Brakes


DB1696
Catalogue | Bendix Brakes
Catalogue | Bendix Brakes


Two part numbers got different backplate tab design. DB1835 got 2-slot/partitions and tab design matches with my OE Hitach(yeah its Tokico as per Bendix so its also Hitachi), while DB1696 which Bendix claims to be made by Sumitomo which happens to have different tab/dimensions of the Tokico, this one got the same dimensions for the 320mm rotors of V6 navara and all disc models.

From the tab/dimensions, its clear that there are two kinds of rotors, but what about the slot/partition? I dunno what exactly it got to do with the brake design maybe heating ventilation dissipation, but i get the same performance using replacement kmi with the middle slot, and the rotors are still pristine shiney. Maybe OE manufacturers do have styles with the way they design, prolly kmi mixed up the part numbers resulting to the middle slot/partition.. For me as long as it fits and do the job, then it should be fine.

[rzeraus]

^
sir 12vdc, as long as it does the job and same braking performance and it does not wear much on the rotor, it's good enough for me.

I will go back to nissan and check what's the difference between the D1060-EB326 and the D1060-JR70A if those brake pads have two slots.

[Wh1stl3r]

Yes, nagkaiba lang sa hub height. Spanish 38.3mm (Sumitomo), while Thai at larger 53mm (Tokico). Naglabas din ng 320mm rear/front rotor pero discontinued na ito, gamit ito sa R51 pathfinder.

Around 50k kms yata yung hitachi bago ko napalitan ng kmi

12,
Ang ganda naman ng wear ng pads mo, are these on OEM tires/wheels? Yung akin around 20Tkms nagcrack na sa may slots.. 4x4 rims with 245/70r16 Michelin Latitude Cross. Maybe the mediocre grip on the tires have something to do with it.

[12vdc]

Using 4x4 oe mags ht dunlop grandtrek 255/70, inabot pa yata nung nagpalit ako to heavier bridgestone a/t. Siguro dapat palit na once pumantay na sa slot, parang wala kwenta yung brake wear indicator, sugat na rotor wala pa rin sound.


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[rzeraus]

Using 4x4 oe mags ht dunlop grandtrek 255/70, inabot pa yata nung nagpalit ako to heavier bridgestone a/t. Siguro dapat palit na once pumantay na sa slot, parang wala kwenta yung brake wear indicator, sugat na rotor wala pa rin sound.


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i think it has something to do with the proper bedded-in of the rotors and new brake pads that is why the wear is so even in sir 12vdc brake pads, please correct me if i'm wrong.

[Wh1stl3r]

*12
Kaso before pa dumating sa slot nadudurog na sya.. Di ko rin ma gets bakit ganun yung akin, medyo hard nga ako sa brakes pero pag wala lang karga. Nagpa-lathe pa ako ng front before magpalit, pero ganun pa din result. Wala pang halfway nagdudurog na sa may slot. Umorder na ako ng Greenstuff and Yellowstuff, sana better durability. BTW 27mm pa naman pala rotors ko, sa yo makapal pa?

*rzeraus
I'm sure it would be better to bed them in properly, but here in stop/go conditions it's almost impossible. Manggigil ka talaga sa mga kasabay, hehe.

[Wh1stl3r]

Finally my rear suspension project is done! We took off the stock 4x2 leaf pack and this is what it looks like:



Doesn't look too bad when it's not supporting the truck but these are close to shot when installed (see before pic). The thing I don't like about the OEM 4x2 leaf pack is the main and second leaves. If you look closely you can see they are the same length. They will move like one thick main leaf, not good for ride quality. So what we have is practically one thick main leaf, one shorter leaf, and two thick overload leaves that are just act as bump stops.

I wanted to cut the second leaf to get better leaf stepping but wasn't sure how many leaves yet we could go. Too many leaves would lift the rear so high I might need a drop bracket kit for the front. Not happening as it's too expensive! So we left the first 2 leaves alone for now. Ended up getting 2 donor leaves of the same thickness (8 or 9mm?) from an automotive ukay-ukay near Banawe. The 2 leaves have more curve to them, and will make the leaf pack more progressive. We removed the last overload and flipped the longer overload. I stuck to the stock length rear Bilstein shocks as they still don't limit droop at full extension. And voila!

Before:


After:


Total lift for the rear is around 2". Tires look really small now, LOL. First impressions, the ride is now much more comfortable even without load in the back. And smaller bumps are barely in the cabin. I'll revisit cutting the second leaf if things get too stiff in the future but for now, this setup is not bad at all for a few K's worth of parts.

[hinlog]

Lets go first to some simplier cause of that low power

Check your intake hose, the one acter the air filter box. Check if the hose is still rounded in shape, if not remove the filter box and insert your hand into the hose to pop it again and return the air filter box properly. Best remedy for this is to chage your existing OEM filter to an after market drop in fikter the likes of k&n or hurricane.

Whats the mileage of your truck? Perhaps your return tube where your egr is located is already clogged up. Clean the tube by removing it first and if possible block the passage by making an aluminum spacer in between the connection.

Dirty primary and secondary fuel filter can cause low power issue too. Worst is you need to pull down and drain your tank gas to check the quality of the fuel inside the tank.

hi peeps,

Previously, low power was solved by cleaning the air filter and casa mechnic told about cleaning the solenoid (apologies, I couldn't remember which andwhere positioned exactly). Yesterday , it happened anew as we were about to leave our place, "tinaktak" ko lang yung air filter, okay na uli. I felt relieved and at the same time it created worries in me, baka kasi next time hindi na umubra ang ganung style.

In relation, does anybody know where I can buy those drop in filter around south as I lived in Binan? The same goes with mechanic who can do egr blanking?
I guess these two are a must for me to do as I backread this thread. I'm thankful for knowing more about our unit from a number of contributors here. I hope we don't get tired sharing our successes and failures about out unit, more power peeps!!!

Btw, I bought my 2010 unit from one of my neighbors few months ago.

Muli, salamat!


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[jay185]

hi peeps,

Previously, low power was solved by cleaning the air filter and casa mechnic told about cleaning the solenoid (apologies, I couldn't remember which andwhere positioned exactly). Yesterday , it happened anew as we were about to leave our place, "tinaktak" ko lang yung air filter, okay na uli. I felt relieved and at the same time it created worries in me, baka kasi next time hindi na umubra ang ganung style.

In relation, does anybody know where I can buy those drop in filter around south as I lived in Binan? The same goes with mechanic who can do egr blanking?
I guess these two are a must for me to do as I backread this thread. I'm thankful for knowing more about our unit from a number of contributors here. I hope we don't get tired sharing our successes and failures about out unit, more power peeps!!!

Btw, I bought my 2010 unit from one of my neighbors few months ago.

Muli, salamat!


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si Kurt merong binebentang drop in filter pang navara naten. alam ko taga south lang din yun. txt mo sya 0927-3330412

[jay185]

Finally my rear suspension project is done! We took off the stock 4x2 leaf pack and this is what it looks like:



Doesn't look too bad when it's not supporting the truck but these are close to shot when installed (see before pic). The thing I don't like about the OEM 4x2 leaf pack is the main and second leaves. If you look closely you can see they are the same length. They will move like one thick main leaf, not good for ride quality. So what we have is practically one thick main leaf, one shorter leaf, and two thick overload leaves that are just act as bump stops.

I wanted to cut the second leaf to get better leaf stepping but wasn't sure how many leaves yet we could go. Too many leaves would lift the rear so high I might need a drop bracket kit for the front. Not happening as it's too expensive! So we left the first 2 leaves alone for now. Ended up getting 2 donor leaves of the same thickness (8 or 9mm?) from an automotive ukay-ukay near Banawe. The 2 leaves have more curve to them, and will make the leaf pack more progressive. We removed the last overload and flipped the longer overload. I stuck to the stock length rear Bilstein shocks as they still don't limit droop at full extension. And voila!

Before:


After:


Total lift for the rear is around 2". Tires look really small now, LOL. First impressions, the ride is now much more comfortable even without load in the back. And smaller bumps are barely in the cabin. I'll revisit cutting the second leaf if things get too stiff in the future but for now, this setup is not bad at all for a few K's worth of parts.

magkano total damage? gano katagal ang downtime ni nav pag gagawin to?

[Wh1stl3r]

*jay
Not sure brader. Tingnan ko muna mga resibo. I think including labor around 8K? Eto yung mga kelangan:
1. Donor leaves (1 or 2 depending on the lift, payload capacity and what you plan to do with the truck)
2. 4 longer u-bolts
3. 2 longer center bolts
4. Additional or longer leaf pack clamp
Pag kumpleto gamit kaya gawin in 1 day.

I wanted to go PRG AAL kaya lang naisip ko ang tagal bago makarating dito, also, parang sayang maglagay ng bagong leaves sa lumang leaf pack. Better go with a brand new leaf pack in the future when this set flattens out again.

[Wh1stl3r]

hi peeps,

Previously, low power was solved by cleaning the air filter and casa mechnic told about cleaning the solenoid (apologies, I couldn't remember which andwhere positioned exactly). Yesterday , it happened anew as we were about to leave our place, "tinaktak" ko lang yung air filter, okay na uli. I felt relieved and at the same time it created worries in me, baka kasi next time hindi na umubra ang ganung style.

In relation, does anybody know where I can buy those drop in filter around south as I lived in Binan? The same goes with mechanic who can do egr blanking?
I guess these two are a must for me to do as I backread this thread. I'm thankful for knowing more about our unit from a number of contributors here. I hope we don't get tired sharing our successes and failures about out unit, more power peeps!!!

Btw, I bought my 2010 unit from one of my neighbors few months ago.

Muli, salamat!


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I wouldn't use a K&N or similar filter on my car in dusty and/or smoggy conditions (like in MM). I'd just change the OEM or aftermarket paper filter more often, maybe every 10TKms? Also the primary and secondary filters every 10Tkm. Aside from that you might want to consider getting a solid intake pipe if you have a lead foot. The intake hose only collapses when the filter is saturated with dirt and you press on the gas pedal too abruptly. Other factors may be the catalytic converter is clogged with soot, EGR valve stuck in open position or the MAF sensor is dirty. You could also try resetting the ECU by taking the - terminal off the battery for a couple minutes and reconnecting it. If you've done all the above, try doing an Italian tuneup.

[OJ213]

im using BENDIX 4WD NOW, so far so good , almost 25k km more than 50% pa on DBA WIPER-SLOT SERIES 4000 ROTORS

Hmm.. I'm now confused with the part numbers..

My 2008 Thai D40 with 296mm rotors had this Nissan brakepad Hitachi HP65H FF/ PN#GM702 GM701, it got 2 slots/partition..



I replaced it with KMI Compact PN# PJN-702MC with OE PN# OEM D1060-JR70A. This pad has only 1 slot/partition but the backplate, tabs, dimensions were all the same with the Hitachi.



Looking at fast catalog, there are 2 part numbers for D40 - PN# is D1060-EB71A and PN# OEM D1060-JR70A. Now take a look closely at the material construction.. Former got 2-line partition, latter got 1 center partition but same tab/ backplate construction.





I bought a spare Bendix 1835 GCT, this one has 2 slot/partition but with the same dimensions of the original Hitachi.

Looking at Bendix cross-reference..

DB1835 2slots/partition
Catalogue | Bendix Brakes


DB1696
Catalogue | Bendix Brakes
Catalogue | Bendix Brakes


Two part numbers got different backplate tab design. DB1835 got 2-slot/partitions and tab design matches with my OE Hitach(yeah its Tokico as per Bendix so its also Hitachi), while DB1696 which Bendix claims to be made by Sumitomo which happens to have different tab/dimensions of the Tokico, this one got the same dimensions for the 320mm rotors of V6 navara and all disc models.

From the tab/dimensions, its clear that there are two kinds of rotors, but what about the slot/partition? I dunno what exactly it got to do with the brake design maybe heating ventilation dissipation, but i get the same performance using replacement kmi with the middle slot, and the rotors are still pristine shiney. Maybe OE manufacturers do have styles with the way they design, prolly kmi mixed up the part numbers resulting to the middle slot/partition.. For me as long as it fits and do the job, then it should be fine.

[OJ213]

go for the stage 1 bro Jed, tolerable naman squeeks :D penetrating oil lang ok na , also meron na ako stock ng washers for the shock mount ng Radflo , iba talaga ride ng Radflo

That's awesome, I'm jealous! Guess I'll have to stock up on wd40 if I go with the Radflos.

Or go Koni? Can't do multiple AAL without lifting the front though. Only the RAIDs can be used with a lift up front. Decisions, decisions...

[Wh1stl3r]

^
Umorder na ko ng Koni bro. Ang tanong lang kung kelan dadating. Medyo sensitive kasi tenga ko hehe. Ang gusto ko dun sa Koni rebound adjustable. Di ko naman ilulukso itong Nav, pwede na sa kin di mag Radflo. Sinabayan ko na rin ng yellowstuff at greenstuff pads. Ok naman yung Bendix? Di naman malakas kumain ng rotors? Feeling ko pag naka OEM rotors pa malakas gumasgas yung Bendix. May 1mm pa naman ako sa OEM rotors, saka na ako mag DBA.

[hinlog]

hi,

I brought my navara to shangri-la mall parking last Sat and set mine to 4wd, as I reached Level 8, I felt parang humina si Nav..I experienced the same when we went to Crosswinds in Tagaytay naka 4wd din ako nun, as I stopped to our destination, parang amoy ng sunog na clutch at parang biglang humina si Nav..are those also also sign of probably DMF problem? btw, mine is 2010 LE AT. Apologies, nasa getting to know each other palang kame ni Nav e. Thanks in advance.

[12vdc]

You shouldn't engage 4wd on paved road, tire binding could damage the geartrain.


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