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  1. Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    26,781
    #1601
    Quote Originally Posted by siluvent View Post
    mga sir noob question po.. nakabili kasi ako ng eagle 1 spray nanowax? ok po b un? gusto ko lang kasi mag try eh hahaha though meron ako nanosliq and nanogloss na ndi pa rin nagagamit hehehe pano ba sila gamitin? pwede po ba nanosliq nanogloss tapos EO nanowax?? :P

    gusto ko lang ma achieve ulit ung deep gloss look ng polished metal heheh :P salamat po ng madami!!!:D paxenxa noob lang po hehe

    Spray wax ba yan? usually pang maintain yan ng applied wax mo.

  2. Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    3,527
    #1602
    Quote Originally Posted by siluvent View Post
    mga sir noob question po.. nakabili kasi ako ng eagle 1 spray nanowax? ok po b un? gusto ko lang kasi mag try eh hahaha though meron ako nanosliq and nanogloss na ndi pa rin nagagamit hehehe pano ba sila gamitin? pwede po ba nanosliq nanogloss tapos EO nanowax?? :P

    gusto ko lang ma achieve ulit ung deep gloss look ng polished metal heheh :P salamat po ng madami!!!:D paxenxa noob lang po hehe
    For their application: spray wax - pretty much explanatory; nanoglos - use applicators, apply, cure, buff off.

    Using the Eagle1 is redundant. If you think it'll be a waste, best to interchange them with the Nanosliq application. Don't expect too much durability though. The detail chain would be: Nanoglos + Nanosliq/Eagle1. As for that deep gloss look, that depends on the condition of the paint. Don't expect magic results from just wax applications. Protection, sure. But looks? Tackle the swirls, oxidation, and paint impurities first.

    Judging by your post, you should at least make an effort in reading page 1. You would find most of your answers there. Also the terms "noob" is self-derogatory, best to use "newb" ;)

  3. Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    18
    #1603
    sirs, help naman po. magpapare-tint po kasi ako ng auto sa banawe, sabi nila, di daw nila maiiwasan ung maliliit na bubbles dahil impossible daw matanggal lahat ng adhesive sa current tint ko.. may glass cleaner po ba or anything para maging maayos ang pagre-tint? thanks po..

  4. Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    894
    #1604
    POLYGLAZE CUT AND POLISH

    If you want to wreck your car use a cut & polish. Use just a normal polish on your car because it has a clear coat and you don't want a cutting compound like a cut & polish to remove that.

    I know someone who used a cut and polish on their 2nd gen, and the entire area that they used it on went all white and dull - on a green car not a good look.

    Claybar is good.
    Polish is good
    Wax is good

    Cut & polish I'd avoid.

    After going through this decision a few weeks ago I decided to use a regular polish and it came up very good - I applied it by hand.

    Polishing a car by hand is not difficult - I can do it thoroughly in about 30 minutes. Generally you'll get a better result polishing your car by hand if you're an amateur as opposed to using a machine - the same cannot be said for a professional (machines are better if done correctly).

  5. Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    584
    #1605
    Quote Originally Posted by cardar View Post
    sirs, help naman po. magpapare-tint po kasi ako ng auto sa banawe, sabi nila, di daw nila maiiwasan ung maliliit na bubbles dahil impossible daw matanggal lahat ng adhesive sa current tint ko.. may glass cleaner po ba or anything para maging maayos ang pagre-tint? thanks po..
    pag wala silang steam mahihirapan maalis lahat ng adhesive pag blade lang ginamit. yung iba gamit 50/50 mix ammonia ewan ko lang kung pano gawin yun sa youtube ko lang nakita hehehe, mas maganda kung may tint room sila para iwas alikabok na mag cause din ng bubbles alam mo naman sa pinas.

  6. Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    2,376
    #1606
    Mga sir, ask ko lang kasi kanina lang ako nagcarwash sa kotse ko. After a week kong nakuha sa casa. I used Microtex chamois for drying kaso i find it hard na ipunas siya. It left water marks pa naman since yung water namin sa place ay hard. So madali magmark yung water. How eo you properly use a chamois po ba and can you recommend microtex ultra for drying? Thanks!

  7. Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    261
    #1607
    The Microtex Elite is the one for drying. You can try other waffle weave MF towels if you see any, as the Elite is P 600. Pero you can wipe dry the whole car with the Elite ng walang pigaan, as in!

    Kung yung chamois, pipigain mo talaga after every panel. Yung chamois ko pang simot na Lang ng mga tulo tulo after drying with the Elite.

    Huwag didiinan pag punas sa pagturo ng car ha, papa daanan lang ng towel. Halos ng pagmamahal.

  8. Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,421
    #1608
    Quote Originally Posted by carwhacko View Post
    Mga sir, ask ko lang kasi kanina lang ako nagcarwash sa kotse ko. After a week kong nakuha sa casa. I used Microtex chamois for drying kaso i find it hard na ipunas siya. It left water marks pa naman since yung water namin sa place ay hard. So madali magmark yung water. How eo you properly use a chamois po ba and can you recommend microtex ultra for drying? Thanks!
    Microtex ELite will do the trick for you.

  9. Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    2,376
    #1609
    Noted sirs *loverlionus and *cjv

  10. Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    17,314
    #1610
    I was cleaning our car a while ago, and I noticed it took me close to 2 hours to get everything done - from wash to tire black. I just followed sir scarnhorst's instructions, pero nagulat ako na ang tagal pala.

    I'm only cleaning an Altis so it's not that big of a car. This is causing me problems since the car is parked outside, exposed directly to sunlight, so ambilis matuyo ng tubig. When I shampoo one panel using a washmitt, before I'm done with the next panel, natuyo na yung previous panel. So I have to constantly rinse it with water.

    Come drying time, I rinse the whole car once again with a hose, pero bago ko pa mapatuyo lahat, natutuyo na magisa yung water, causing watermarks.

    One last thing, when I dry the car with the microfiber chamois, I notice na dumudumi yung chamois, meaning the may dumi pa sa kotse. I spent over an hour shampooing the whole thing so it puzzles me na madumi pa rin. My guess is that since ang tagal nung process, bagong dumi na yung kumakapit.

    Any suggestions on how I can reduce my cleaning time?

  11. Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    1,245
    #1611
    Never wash your car in direct sun light. It's best to wash your car early in the morning or late in the afternoon. Kung mainit talaga kahit under the shade, try to wash per panel. start with the roof. wash - rinse - dry . then go to the windows. then to the next panel.

  12. Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    3,527
    #1612
    Quote Originally Posted by jut703 View Post
    I was cleaning our car a while ago, and I noticed it took me close to 2 hours to get everything done - from wash to tire black. I just followed sir scarnhorst's instructions, pero nagulat ako na ang tagal pala.

    I'm only cleaning an Altis so it's not that big of a car. This is causing me problems since the car is parked outside, exposed directly to sunlight, so ambilis matuyo ng tubig. When I shampoo one panel using a washmitt, before I'm done with the next panel, natuyo na yung previous panel. So I have to constantly rinse it with water.

    Come drying time, I rinse the whole car once again with a hose, pero bago ko pa mapatuyo lahat, natutuyo na magisa yung water, causing watermarks.

    One last thing, when I dry the car with the microfiber chamois, I notice na dumudumi yung chamois, meaning the may dumi pa sa kotse. I spent over an hour shampooing the whole thing so it puzzles me na madumi pa rin. My guess is that since ang tagal nung process, bagong dumi na yung kumakapit.

    Any suggestions on how I can reduce my cleaning time?
    Don't wash your car while the sun's out. I find this harms more than helps the paint ;) there were instances I cleaned my car under direct sunlight (1/3 ng car natatamaan ng rays) so I simply finish that section ASAP before going for the others. It would be MUCH harder if sunlight's flooding your whole car so I'd simply advice waiting for the sun to go down or find a shade.

    If it's your first-time, 2 hours seems above average. How meticulous are you? When using the mitt, you don't have to apply pressure.. just glide your arm over it. You'd be surprised that I have been reducing my car wash regimen by a lot. Usually 1 hour for complete coverage but I normally go for 30-40minutes by simply going for exterior washing (no mags, hard-to-reach spots, etc.)

  13. Join Date
    Dec 2006
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    17,314
    #1613
    I noticed that when I don't apply pressure, most of the dirt comes off, but after drying, I notice that a stubborn layer of dirt remains on the paint on some areas, and it's noticeable because it's a darker shade of white than the really clean parts. So I end up washing that area again.

    I did take time with everything, washing every nook and cranny of the car. Even got a toothbrush to get to the hard-to-reach spots on the emblems. Maybe it'll be faster next time around since I don't have to go through every crevice of the car anymore.

  14. Join Date
    Aug 2010
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    3,527
    #1614
    Regarding that stubborn dirt layer, it's really a given if your car is white. There's a more uhh.. generic term for it - "libag". Generally, even if you put pressure on trying to remove it.. di yan natatangal. You'd have to use a cleaner wax for it.

    I would also recommend you avail yourself of claying services. If you haven't, you'd really like to touch the paint after claying super smooth :naughty2:

  15. Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    6,234
    #1615
    Quote Originally Posted by jhnkvn View Post
    I would also recommend you avail yourself of claying services. If you haven't, you'd really like to touch the paint after claying super smooth :naughty2:
    Syempre mas masarap talaga pag makinis :naughty2:

    I use Nanogloss to get rid of the libag. It's also effective on an officemate's white Forester especially at the edges where the car cover rubs against the paint. The Collinite 845 layer helps too.

    Between Collinite cleaner wax and a clay bar which one will be more sulit?

  16. Join Date
    Dec 2006
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    17,314
    #1616
    But I just had my door panels and bumpers repainted, diba may curing time pa yun before having it waxed?

  17. Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    285
    #1617
    Quote Originally Posted by JohnM View Post
    Syempre mas masarap talaga pag makinis :naughty2:

    I use Nanogloss to get rid of the libag. It's also effective on an officemate's white Forester especially at the edges where the car cover rubs against the paint. The Collinite 845 layer helps too.

    Between Collinite cleaner wax and a clay bar which one will be more sulit?
    A cleaner wax and clay bar serve two different problems. I suggest you get both.

  18. Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    3,527
    #1618
    Quote Originally Posted by JohnM View Post
    Syempre mas masarap talaga pag makinis :naughty2:

    I use Nanogloss to get rid of the libag. It's also effective on an officemate's white Forester especially at the edges where the car cover rubs against the paint. The Collinite 845 layer helps too.

    Between Collinite cleaner wax and a clay bar which one will be more sulit?
    Nanoglos has very light cleaners lang. You'd be surprised of the difference a dedicated cleaner like KAIO would do to your car kahit 6-months palang yun kotse. It literally made white... whiter! Parang Xonrox. Swirl-filling capabilities are also notable. The only problem is durability - this is why alot of people opt to simply layer it with a more durable wax such as Collinite.

    If you haven't clayed your car yet, I'd go for it over the cleaner wax. Cleaner wax isn't necessary for detailing... clay bar, on the otherhand, is necessary as contaminants would stick to your paint over time. Then again, DO get both nalang.

    As from experience, I don't like buying clay bars. Not because it's expensive but because it's sometimes more practical (opportunity-cost wise) to let somebody do it for you (aka detailing shops). There are also those blunders such as dropping the clay bar (happened to me!). I would only spend 300php for a car wash, claying session, and an OCW kasi sa suking detailer ko. On the otherhand, doing all of those DIY would make me spend 2.5-3hours and the costs of wash+QD used+clay+OCW.. In a way, i-taga niyo ako ng 100pesos but at least I get to rest for 3 hours. Okay na yun.. I'd rather save on my Starbucks

    Quote Originally Posted by jut703 View Post
    But I just had my door panels and bumpers repainted, diba may curing time pa yun before having it waxed?
    Technically, yes. But it won't really do anything to the paint except to prolong the curing time. I've repainted my Sonata and I applied a sealant the next week (I figured I'd give it a week to cure) since I'm one of those who fusses about paint protection. So if the paint's curing time is 1 week tpos nilagyan mo siya ng wax/sealant the next day, the curing time would simply be extended to maybe a month or so... discolorations? Nah.. Of course, anybody is free to dispute this.
    Last edited by jhnkvn; June 4th, 2012 at 10:29 PM.

  19. Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    2,376
    #1619
    Mga sirs I just recently used the Nanoglos to my car then after an hour siguro I applied Nanosliq is it okay po ba or do I have to wait longer to apply Nanosliq? Yan lang po kasi regimen ko to keep my car clean and a bit shiny. Thanks!

  20. Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    6,234
    #1620
    I'm planning to ask a friend to buy Collinite Cleaner Wax when he goes to the US. The let-the-pros-do-the-claying part actually makes a lot of sense. At the price dropping the clay bar might be as painful as dropping the soap :D

"Tamang OC lang" - a newbie's guide to car appearance maintenance