2014 Mazda 3

[travajante]

A repost on a common non-Mazda-specific possibility:

Sulfur odor at high speeds/steep climbs/spirited drives....
So what is that awful smell? It's hydrogen sulfide or H2S. Fart!!! It does not exist in the fuel nor oil, which is why you can't smell it at the gas station. It does, however, come from the gasoline. Almost all gasoline contains organic sulfur compounds with sulfur levels ranging from 30 to 100 parts per million, approximately.

As the fuel burns, the organic sulfur compounds break down into simpler compounds. If the engine is running lean (more air than is needed to burn the fuel), the sulfur is likely to be SO2, or sulfur dioxide. The catalytic converter can change this into SO3 (sulfur trioxide), which then reacts with the catalyst to form sulfates on the catalyst. Over several minutes there is a build up of sulfates. If the engine suddenly starts to run rich (not enough air to burn all the fuel), such as when you drive spiritedly, stop at a red light, climb a steep hill, or brake hard to slow down, the chemistry changes. Now the sulfates are unstable and they react to form hydrogen sulfide, which is expelled from the exhaust pipe all at once. The high concentration is the reason for the bad smell! This effect is a common problem with any new vehicle because the catalyst is working at a very high efficiency. However, as the catalyst ages, the activity drops. Fortunately for us, one of the first reactions to be affected is the formation of hydrogen sulfide. So as the catalyst gets older, the smell will go away. It should also be noted that many catalysts never smell bad. One reason might be because the vehicle doesn't run lean for much of the time, or perhaps the catalyst has an extra component that reduces the production of hydrogen sulfide.

Use it more often, it should go away as the kms pile up.....Hopefully, it's just the above.
A great week ahead, y'all!!!!

To add....Here's the updated Mazda TSB on Sulfur Smell issued 2/15/16:

[lsdgenie]

Try rubbing it off 1st w/ rubbing compound, doc. If deep, best pro'd.

Looks pretty deep. I agree with Sir Travs - although I'd go straight to a reputable detailer - baka kaya pa ng rubbing comp with a rotary buffer. They need to know what theyre doing though.

[lsdgenie]

I forgot if someone answered this earlier in the thread, but are Tein Flex Z's available for the 3?

[travajante]

I forgot if someone answered this earlier in the thread, but are Tein Flex Z's available for the 3?

YES, they are!!!! If you need proof, just look below....

For those w/ the random low speed bump clunk, no need to wait for your spring protectors/insulators. The FlexZs are an alternative as they come w/ their own front strutmounts....

[elodeon]

To add....Here's the updated Mazda TSB on Sulfur Smell issued 2/15/16:

from where do you get these TSBs, sir Santi?

[travajante]

from where do you get these TSBs, sir Santi?

OEMDTC archives common faults, diagnostic trouble codes & fixes of almost all makes, elodeon sir.

[travajante]

The new Civic Hatch is a busy 3....

Agr33????

[balongbalong]

Some people, really! SMH


Any suggestions on how to fill in the scratch? Can black colored wax help?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ouch, what caused it?

Ikaw ba yun naka pomponazzi?

[travajante]

Was your moldy musty AC smell sorted, balong sir? Did you receive the bulletin I sent on that? Just not sure if the Air Cooling Coil Coating Kit is available locally, though.

[Doctsakititoy]

Ouch, what caused it?

Ikaw ba yun naka pomponazzi?

Don't know exactly but it sure looks like intentional damage!
Yes, got the pomponazzi treatment for my paint.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[balongbalong]

Was your moldy musty AC smell sorted, balong sir? Did you receive the bulletin I sent on that? Just not sure if the Air Cooling Coil Coating Kit is available locally, though.

Unfortunately not yet, changed cabin filter, sprayed lysol, and keep drying my evap after trips, but still there.

For sure smell is from moisture from evap na, dont know lang if its drain is clogged, as smell occurs during fan mode only after i have used the AC and drying it out, or if i'm on istop since compressor is off.

TY for the TSB, though meron ka schematics for the evap drain line? Di ko pa din mahanap and when i try to check the floor for water from the AC, wala e.

The cooling coat is worth a shot, will be asking the stealers if they have it. Hopefully meron.

[balongbalong]

Don't know exactly but it sure looks like intentional damage!
Yes, got the pomponazzi treatment for my paint.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Key'd? Anyway thats terrible, was it til primer? Bumper yan tama? If it is unfortunately repaint. You can touch up but wont look good.

[travajante]

Unfortunately not yet, changed cabin filter, sprayed lysol, and keep drying my evap after trips, but still there.

For sure smell is from moisture from evap na, dont know lang if its drain is clogged, as smell occurs during fan mode only after i have used the AC and drying it out, or if i'm on istop since compressor is off.

TY for the TSB, though meron ka schematics for the evap drain line? Di ko pa din mahanap and when i try to check the floor for water from the AC, wala e.

The cooling coat is worth a shot, will be asking the stealers if they have it. Hopefully meron.

Clogged drains, cars our age seldom go together. The coil coating does make sense. Insulation controls condensation.
Pretty sure your tech can be more helpful in pointing the drain route than this useless service manual pic of our system..

Hope you hunt down the stink via the preventive rather than the cure route of Lysol & silica dehumidifiers, balong sir.

[travajante]

Want more from our Infotainment???? Patience....
The developers at XDA have confirmed that they are developing software tweaks for car’s infotainment system and they are all testing it out on the gen3 M3.

XDA tweaks include Android Auto, All-In-One App & Tweak installer, Speedometer App, Custom Application SDK, Enhanced Compass App, Android Screen Mirroring and Android App Video Player.

XDA quoted that the tweaks are all coming soon and they will be launching a Beta version of them all in the coming months. At this rate, we can expect the tweaks to become available before the end of this year.

[chiezee]

Question lang po. Plastic po ba bumper natin?

[travajante]

Question lang po. Plastic po ba bumper natin?

Yes, why ask?

[Yatta]

Question lang po. Plastic po ba bumper natin?

Lahat naman ngayon plastic bumper na.

[travajante]

Here's a pretty one on FlexZ coilovers, 19x8 et48 Lightweight RPF1s to jumpstart the week!


Oh, oven-fresh NO-DRILL M3 & M2 Plate Relocators are now available & ready to go...
For details, please email
satravajante*gmail.com
Thanks & an awesoM3 week ahead!!!

[rei_lied]

Pano po natatangal yung parang musky smell whenever I turn on the AC? I don't want to use air freshners kasi I want to retain the kinda still new smell of my car hehe

[travajante]

Pano po natatangal yung parang musky smell whenever I turn on the AC? I don't want to use air freshners kasi I want to retain the kinda still new smell of my car hehe

Before we start....Nothing spilt anywhere in-cabin recently? You checked shoes, pedals, floorliners, carpet for any sign of foreign caked brown stuff that may look chocolaty but doesn't taste so? Sure none?
Ok, hehe, seriously....

That musty/mildew odor, most noticeable when the A/C is first turned ON, is likely the result of mold growth in the A/C evaporator/cooling unit which is caused by trapped moisture, leaks, condensation, dust, and pollen within the cooling unit. This condition is usually worse & common in high humidity conditions like ours here.

Please note that A/C odor is not Mazda-specific as it will occur in other makes and models.

Here are DIY steps one can take to investigate & minimize A/C odor:

-Check cabin floor & carpeting for moisture. If wet, address the leak source which is usually a clogged evaporator drain.

If no trapped moisture is detected, below are good habitual approaches:

- Keep the cooling unit dry by leaving the blower fan ON (at least on low), even if the A/C is not being used.
- In our high humidity conditions, or if the air has a lot of dust or pollen, keep the system in the “RECIRCULATION” mode. "Fresh" is for dry climate conditions.
- A few minutes before reaching a destination, turn the A/C OFF, but leave the blower fan ON. This stops the accumulation of condensation on the evaporator/cooling unit, and it helps dry the inside of the cooling unit.
-Leave in-cabin silica dehumidifying canisters. Replace before water accumulation reaches max level. Arm & Hammer Baking Soda Fridge Deodorizer may help, too.

If symptoms persist:
-Remove the cabin filter behind the glove box.
-Spray Lysol into the vents & the cabin air filter opening. That leads to the blower motor air intake opening.
-Switch the air circ mode to fresh & spray Lysol thru the exterior cowl vents near the windshield generously while AC on * full blower. Do the same alternately w/ heat on.
-Replace cabin filter(PN: KD45-61-J6X) w/ new, vid here:
https://youtu.be/xagfcsJwjt0
...but if the used one is still new/clean/serviceable, spray some Lysol. Let dry before reinstalling.
-Dry the evaporator using the following procedure:
WARNING: Don’t run the engine when inside an enclosed area to avoid risk of CO poisoning.
A. Start the engine.
B. Set the HVAC controls as follows.
• RECIRCULATE
• FULL HEAT
• FAN HIGH
• A/C OFF
• AIRFLOW (FACE)
C. Open one window approximately one half inch.
D. Let the engine run for 15 minutes.

If symptoms still stubbornly persist, then we'll have to go more in-depth, more intrusive....Let's pray we won't need to go there.