Remote bypass oil filtration

**Jiggs** · January 8th, 2012 07:37 AM

Wheeww..what a differrence it makes. Clearly it shows that not all good in laboratory specs will translate it in realtime application. Am glad i've been feeding my engines with RP's for years. Question only now is the soundness of those tests..Hope they were not sponsored by Penrite & RP's lol.

**dvldoc** · January 8th, 2012 09:33 AM

This was a independent test not for any one product. Unlike Amsoil who I find a little scammy at times because all the test they do are the 4 ball test and they do it all for their marketing. This test was a independent test, You will notice how well the Valvoline Durablend did, which cost about 1/3 or Royal purple, It would be pretty stupid to show a cheaper oil does almost as well as their.

The Timken test is for extreme pressure not engine wear, so don't use this for a end all for your choice of data, but it shows you the need for ZZDP and Phosphorous levels in your oil to be high.

It boils down to the base stock they are using the API rating. Now if they would have tested oils that carry a API rating of CJ-4 / CI-4 / CH-4 or CH-4/SL or CI-4/SL they would have done almost as well as the best on this test. These will have to have 1200ppm to 1600ppm zinc in them.

This test is really showing how the newer API ratings with reduced levels of Zinc and Phosphorous are lowering the protection levels of oil. When I say makes me think different about Motul and Shell it's just the oils in this rating group. They use Group III oil with a weak additive package since they are meeting that API rating and are not making up for the loss in friction additives of ZINC and Phosphorous will Moly and Boron like they should.

A product like Liqui Moly or a High concentrate product like ZZDP plus or ZDDP Max would get these all to pass with flying colors. I would use Motuls and Shells diesel oils and CH-4/SL or CI-4/SL oils as well since they would have the right additive package in them not the watered down EPA regulated level os SM an SL rated oils.

Here are all the oils that were tested and there ratings.

sHELL 5W40 ultra SL/CF

Gulf werstRen 15w-50 SL/CF4

Pennzoil GT SL

Fuchs Titan supersyn SJ/SF

Motul turbolight SL/CF

Motul 0w-40 SJ/CF

Elf Excellium PG 5W-40 SL/CF

Mobil 1 0w-40 SM

Mobil Synth S (API not stated)

Penrite HRP- 5W-40 SM/CF

Redline Synthetic 5W-40 SL/SJ/SH

sHELL HELIX PLUS 15W-50 SL/CF

ELF COMPETITION GT 10W40 SL

Castro Formula R 0w-40 SM/CF

Valvoline Durablen 10W-40 SL/CF (uses a unique mixture of Group III, IV and V base oil stocks) just like Royal purple That's why the results are so good. It makes up for the SL/CF rating.

Royal Purple 10w-40 CF, CF-2/SJ (Mix of differnet group base stocks lots of Zinc and phosporus like good diesel oil.

Roayl purple racing (basically super high zinc and phospourous levels as well no API rating.

Penrite 5w60 (mix of Group III, IV, and V base stocks) API SL/CF ACEA A3/B3/B4

Bottom line use the oil with the best API rating you can find, Just because it's synthetic (Group III) Oil does not mean it will protect your engine better than good old dyno oil with the right API rating. Or go with a oil like Royal Purple which I find a bit overpriced but will give you great protection. But ZIC oil with right ratings will do just as well.

API RATINGS MATTER

**dvldoc** · January 8th, 2012 11:40 AM

And to just add a few more points.

Just wanted to show how the Timken test is actually done. Here's a couple of vids of a product call ZDDP MAXX TREATS 5 QUARTS OF OIL AT OVER 1800 PPM PHOSPHORS AND 2500 PPM ZINC. It's not magic just Zinc and Phosporus you really don't need 2500ppm zinc and if you have a 3 stage cat on a newer vehicle you don't want that much because your converters life will be shortened by about 25%. In a gas engine 1100ppm to 1200ppm is what you want. But you will get the point with the videos.

Timken test of Exxon 5w30 conventional oil no additives.MOD - YouTube

with added ZZDP and Phos.

Timken test of Exxon 5w30 conventional oil with ZDDP MAXX oil aditive.MOD - YouTube

But with the availability of oils with the CI-4/SL ratings in the Philippines you don't need it. This is just to show the differnce between oils with less than 900ppm zinc vs ones with over 1200ppm. SM oils can have as low as 650ppm zinc (yikes). If you have a classic muscle car you'll wreck your engine with modern oil due to there flat flat tapper lifters. If you vehicle is older than 1996 without roller lifters newer oils like SM,SL, SN will wreck flat tapper lifters and cams.

Engines with flat-tappet cams have extremely high pressure loading at the contact point between the lifter crown and the cam lobe. Even stock passenger cars can see pressure in excess of 200,000 psi at the point of flat-tappet/camlobe contact." To prevent excess wear, traditional motor oil included generous dose of antiwear additives, primarily zinc dialkyldithiophosphate (ZDDP). "The chemistry is such that the additive is a combination of zinc and phosphorous this has been loss due to new the newer API rated oils especially in larger countries. But regulations have killed this off with the new SM, SL, oils.

Basically if your vehicle or equipment such as farm equiempent or generator set does not have roller lifters and your using SM/SL/SN your not getting the proper protection. You need u need at least CH-4/SL or CI-4/SL or full fledged diesel oil.

API rating is more important than brand name or synthetic, Semi synthetic vs Dino. Most CH-4/SL or CI-4/SL Dino oils will give more protection than a Full synthetic SM oil.

**doy** · January 8th, 2012 11:41 AM

Sir dvldoc,

Is this the real thing?

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y209/doy/Photo0544.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y209/doy/Photo0543.jpg

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y209/doy/Photo0545.jpg

Sorry for the crappy images. I just used my phone cam. The product is from CDO International here in Cagayan de Oro City, Mindanao. The LF3564 is sold for Php 950.00 while the FF5160 is sold for Php 980.00, order basis (ride is a 2010 Mitsubishi Strada/Triton 2.5 4x2 non-VGT).

**dvldoc** · January 8th, 2012 01:27 PM

That LF3313 is real but that does not mean the rest will be.

As long as they have the MADE IN USA or other country of origin by the filter diagram on the filter and are fully wrapped in plastic and have the zulu date code on the top of the filter you know your good to go. So far have not seen a real LF3564 yet. Just check them before you buy them. Lots of places mix the real with other filters that are fake.

But if they happen to have the real deal post them up. But I would ask them to verify before ordering them, because they probably get them from Pacer.

**doy** · January 8th, 2012 03:26 PM

Originally Posted by dvldoc

That LF3313 is real but that does not mean the rest will be.

As long as they have the MADE IN USA or other country of origin by the filter diagram on the filter and are fully wrapped in plastic and have the zulu date code on the top of the filter you know your good to go. So far have not seen a real LF3564 yet. Just check them before you buy them. Lots of places mix the real with other filters that are fake.

But if they happen to have the real deal post them up. But I would ask them to verify before ordering them, because they probably get them from Pacer.

Copy, sir. If the LF3564 and FF5160 do differ from the LF3313 I posted, I guess it's back to OEM oil and fuel filters for me. OEM oil filter here sells for Php 850.00 but the fuel filter sells for Php 2,500.00. I have no luck yet with finding the Baldwin and Donaldson equivalents here.

**dvldoc** · January 8th, 2012 03:46 PM

Remember you can use Fleetguards 360 view of their filters. Cummins Filtration - Catalog - Catalog Map

FF5160
http://www.cumminsfiltration.com/cat...&currentPage=1
LF3564
http://www.cumminsfiltration.com/cat...&currentPage=1

**paj4x4** · January 8th, 2012 03:49 PM

Very informative thread dvldoc. I've shifted to Bosch from Vic oil filters for my Gen2.5 Pajero Fieldmaster (4m40). Would you know of the Bosh, Baldwin, or Purolator oil filter equivalent for the 1FZ-FE engine (80 Series Landcruiser) and the 2UZ-FE engine (100 Series Landcruiser)? I currently use Toyota OEM oil filters on these rigs. Thanks.

**tuazon7** · January 8th, 2012 04:05 PM

Originally Posted by dvldoc

Yes it connects to between the breather hose and intake hose. Diesels don't have PVC valves.

Hi Doc, got a Cusco OCC but have'nt put it in yet. Need to still have the appropriate fittings/hoses/clamps to do so. But just noticed that there seems to be nothing inside it, though just managed to peek on the holes only. Browse the web out of curiosity and seems that most of the known branded OCCs have nothing inside or un-baffled, as they term it. Is this effective, some say yes others say no? Contemplating on having it opened and put some perforated sheet between the two nipples? TIA.

**zix888** · January 8th, 2012 07:05 PM

Originally Posted by tuazon7

Hi Doc, got a Cusco OCC but have'nt put it in yet. Need to still have the appropriate fittings/hoses/clamps to do so. But just noticed that there seems to be nothing inside it, though just managed to peek on the holes only. Browse the web out of curiosity and seems that most of the known branded OCCs have nothing inside or un-baffled, as they term it. Is this effective, some say yes others say no? Contemplating on having it opened and put some perforated sheet between the two nipples? TIA.

Bro papost nung cusco occ mo, thanks