Mineral , semi synthetic or fully synthetic?

[Retz]

its not actually a question sir retz of whether its fully or semi synthetic or mineral... i think the advised made by HARI on insisting that user owners and casa must use FS oil, is base on the emission devices that came with their models , the Selective Catalytic reduction devices and their diesel particulate filters together with prolonging oxygen sensor...

which needs low Phosphorus and zinc (SAPS)

kung hindi kasi issue ang mga emission devices na toh... Delo Gold and Delvac and other strong diesel lubricants will offer much longer protection...

kaso need nang casa na i-prioritize na ma-prolong life nang mga emission device,,

most Fully synthetic oils are CJ-4 rated na.... meh limit na sa ZINC and Phosphorus...

Sir, correct me if im wrong. Kapag ginamit ung FS na CJ-4, kailangan ung fuel na ikarga mo ay 500ppm or less diba? ung Euro II is greater than 500ppm. kaya dapat mga Euro IV and above ang fuel na dapat ikarga mo?

[Retz]

[quote=asher25;1926095]

^Mobil TDT pa lang yata nakita ko na Cj-4[/QUOTE

try mo tingnan sa ACEhardware yung MAG 1 All Fleet SAE 10w30 at saka SAE15w40 engine oil its rated as API CJ-4/SL,SJ.
it cost around 1300+

Yes, nakita ko rin yan sa Ace and I have posted this doon sa remote bypass filtration thread. Mukhang mineral oil lang ung All Fleet ng Mag 1, pero rated CJ-4 siya, hindi ata compatible sa Euro II high sulfur diesel fuel natin dito.

[Errol5]

^ hindi available sa Ace dito yun Mag 1. wala rin ako balak gamitin yun kung sakali man na meron available dito.
currently using delvac mx, kunng mag shift man ako in the future, Delo muna or Motul

Limited pa naman Cj-4. personally id stick with CI-4/+ base sa mga nabasa ko dito and from other forums

[miko101130]

Sir, correct me if im wrong. Kapag ginamit ung FS na CJ-4, kailangan ung fuel na ikarga mo ay 500ppm or less diba? ung Euro II is greater than 500ppm. kaya dapat mga Euro IV and above ang fuel na dapat ikarga mo?

tama ka diyan sir,, dapat pag na CJ-4 ka less than 500ppm sulfur.....

pwede naman gamitin CJ-4 with fuels na mataas pa din PPM ng sulfur like here in our country kaso,
you cannot extend your oil change intervals, kasi the sulfur will degrade the the oil faster...

[Walter]

So, what is a good synthetic oil for gasoline engines?

[Ry_Tower]

Mobil 1, Caltex Havoline Fully Synthetic (blue jug), Idemitsu, Motul, RP. yan mga nakikita ko na fully syn na ok.

[miko101130]

personally kung fully synthetic na pang gas choices would be, Royal purple, Mobil 1, Redline, and yes Idemitsu japan..... these oils are all performer and not that much marketing B.S.... hehehe...

[Retz]

tama ka diyan sir,, dapat pag na CJ-4 ka less than 500ppm sulfur.....

pwede naman gamitin CJ-4 with fuels na mataas pa din PPM ng sulfur like here in our country kaso,
you cannot extend your oil change intervals, kasi the sulfur will degrade the the oil faster...

Okay sir, pwede rin pala kargahan ng Euro II fuel kapag gumamit ka ng CJ-4 engine oil. I thought hindi talaga pwede when I first posted and ask about CJ-4 here, un kasi sagot na hindi pwede ang Euro II fuel.

[Retz]

A little off topic:

Why is it that everytime we have our oil change, our engine response especially during the acceleration in 1st gear is excellent. After sometime, it becomes sluggish and at times you could feel the excellent acceleration as well but not consistent as it was when the oil is newly change. Based from what I have read, oil doesn't degrade as long as we observe proper OCI and the main reason why we change our engine oil is to avoid sludge formation. Based on that premise alone, what could be the reason popular known as "kulang sa hatak"? Is it the wrong type of oil that we use? of course, there are many other factors involved but let us just concentrate on oil in relation to an engine's performance. Your insights is much appreciated.

[jdee12]

mga sirs, recommended ba ang Shell Helix para sa CRDi Diesel ng STarex.? THanks

[miko101130]

A little off topic:

Why is it that everytime we have our oil change, our engine response especially during the acceleration in 1st gear is excellent. After sometime, it becomes sluggish and at times you could feel the excellent acceleration as well but not consistent as it was when the oil is newly change. Based from what I have read, oil doesn't degrade as long as we observe proper OCI and the main reason why we change our engine oil is to avoid sludge formation. Based on that premise alone, what could be the reason popular known as "kulang sa hatak"? Is it the wrong type of oil that we use? of course, there are many other factors involved but let us just concentrate on oil in relation to an engine's performance. Your insights is much appreciated.

matagal din sir Retz bago ko nalaman answer sa tanong na yan.. hahaha...

From the First Pouring of a new engine oil into your engine, the oil still contains all the necessary elements that make it effectively promote the proverbial "malakas ang hatak/maganda takbo"

*these elements are the calcium, zinc, phosphorus, molybdenum, boron.... (which makes the BASE"alkaline" of the oil)

*the viscosity of the newly poured oil is still correct.... ( after usage, the viscosity changes, from being either sobrang
"malapot or malabnaw na")

*Over use of a lubricant, i.e. extended oil drains, will cause the base additives to lose their ability to neutralize acids
(reason why pag matagal na ang oil ay di na maganda ang takbo nang sasakyan...)

*oxidation of the OIL (any oil exposed to heat, pressure, and other elements will cause harmful by-products and affects the oils ability to lubricate) Lacquer Deposits, Metal Corrosion

*On not well maintained vehicles there could be water/ coolant contamination with the engine oil... (water and oil don't mix well)

*excessive fuel dilution occurs, the effectiveness of the lubricant is reduced (over rich fuel mixture dahil meh problem kotse)

*excessive fuel soot ( Wrong fuel mixtures especially with diesels and too much air particles sucked by the intake system)

pag bago pa kasi ang oil, all the parameters of the oil from its base elements, pour depressants, viscosity modifiers to other additives are still intact and correct....

after just some hours or mileage, these are already lessened , and as time goes by by using the vehicle these are further reduced to the point that the oil will no longer be able to provide its functions...

--With the use of better filtration and proper car maintenance (fuel/air/oil filter/tune up/spark plug/ fuel ratio) the OCI could be extended safely and reliably.... but no oil will last forever unless its "GTO OIL" hahahaha...

[holdencaulfield]

maingay na uli pagkatapos. hehehe. jowk

yan umingay na ulit. binati mo kasi eh.

[Retz]

mga sirs, recommended ba ang Shell Helix para sa CRDi Diesel ng STarex.? THanks

Ung Helix HX5 it is just rated API-CF. Dapat ung mga FS na API CJ-4 ang sa CRDi VGT ng Starex mo. Ung emission niya kasi ay nasa Euro IV standard AFAIK.

[Retz]

matagal din sir Retz bago ko nalaman answer sa tanong na yan.. hahaha...

From the First Pouring of a new engine oil into your engine, the oil still contains all the necessary elements that make it effectively promote the proverbial "malakas ang hatak/maganda takbo"

*these elements are the calcium, zinc, phosphorus, molybdenum, boron.... (which makes the BASE"alkaline" of the oil)

*the viscosity of the newly poured oil is still correct.... ( after usage, the viscosity changes, from being either sobrang
"malapot or malabnaw na")

*Over use of a lubricant, i.e. extended oil drains, will cause the base additives to lose their ability to neutralize acids
(reason why pag matagal na ang oil ay di na maganda ang takbo nang sasakyan...)

*oxidation of the OIL (any oil exposed to heat, pressure, and other elements will cause harmful by-products and affects the oils ability to lubricate) Lacquer Deposits, Metal Corrosion

*On not well maintained vehicles there could be water/ coolant contamination with the engine oil... (water and oil don't mix well)

*excessive fuel dilution occurs, the effectiveness of the lubricant is reduced (over rich fuel mixture dahil meh problem kotse)

*excessive fuel soot ( Wrong fuel mixtures especially with diesels and too much air particles sucked by the intake system)

pag bago pa kasi ang oil, all the parameters of the oil from its base elements, pour depressants, viscosity modifiers to other additives are still intact and correct....

after just some hours or mileage, these are already lessened , and as time goes by by using the vehicle these are further reduced to the point that the oil will no longer be able to provide its functions...

--With the use of better filtration and proper car maintenance (fuel/air/oil filter/tune up/spark plug/ fuel ratio) the OCI could be extended safely and reliably.... but no oil will last forever unless its "GTO OIL" hahahaha...

pamatay ung huling sentence mo brad! LMAO! okay, salamat sa detailed explanation. Does this applies to FS oil as well? I was thinking that kung FS oil baka mas matagal ung pag degrade compared sa mineral oil. Hindi ko pa kasi nasubukan ang performance ng FS oil sa engine.

[Gerbo]

Can anyone kind of explain the suitable engine types for the following oil grades:

API CH-4

API CI-4

[Retz]

^

suitable mga yan for high speed four stroke diesel engine. mas bago nga lang ang API CI-4 which is 2002.

[Gerbo]

Found explanation through this one.

It seems CI-4 are for engines with EGR.

[miko101130]

pamatay ung huling sentence mo brad! LMAO! okay, salamat sa detailed explanation. Does this applies to FS oil as well? I was thinking that kung FS oil baka mas matagal ung pag degrade compared sa mineral oil. Hindi ko pa kasi nasubukan ang performance ng FS oil sa engine.

If FS gagamitin, siyempre mas maganda protection at performance nyan, plus pwede for extended oil changes... dahil sa custom made ang base oil nang FS which is 90% of the total oil volume. Resistant ang FS sa oil oxidation at mas matagal talaga ma degrade ang mga additive package as compared to group III and below base oil...

when i say FS, i mean the Group IV base oils, the PAO.... kaso ang mahal kasi nang mga FS na PAO based... nasa 600 pesos pataas per liter.... parang overkill kase... unless you torture your engine in cases liked drag racing, circuit lapping, extreme towing or off-roading...

[miko101130]

Found explanation through this one.

It seems CI-4 are for engines with EGR.

most vehicles with EGR are comfortable with CI-4 oils... masyado na kasi luma CF-4... usually mga old school diesel engines ang gumagamit pa CF-4... mura kasi price ng CF-4.... hindi pa magawang obsolete ang CF-4 kasi madameng old engines ang gumagamit pa nito...

In third world countries, more than 50% of oil consumption is still on CF-4 categories... imagine the amount of oil used by mining, agricultural, heavy construction equipment, and other off-highway machines...

[number001]

Delo® Gold Multigrade
SAE 15W-40
Delo® Gold Multigrade is a high performance, multigrade, heavy-duty diesel engine oil specifically designed to lubricate a wide range of diesel and gasoline engines requiring API CH-4, CF or SL performance lubricants. Delo® Gold Multigrade is formulated with ISOSYN® Technology.

This is what our company uses for the fleet of L300 closed vans (new and old). The problem is, the oil is partnered it with "VIC" filters (C306J or C321).

Anyone with experience using this? Is it even possible to do 10,000 kms with this and a BD28?

Currently, the practice to change oil every 5,000 kms. Each L300 covers about 11,000 kms annually.