well kung nasiraan ka ng alternator or battery kasalanan mo yan! and its not the AT's fault...
but if nasiraan talaga...the main difference between AT and MT when towing:
MT - just neutral then GO.
AT - tow for only a maximum of 30 mins/10kms..if long towing is required, REMOVE THE DRIVE SHAFTS so that you'll not overheat your AT and cause severe damage to your AT/cvt
Yup, poor maintainance is the owner's fault but M/T still excels during these kind of emergencies..I remember when we were about to board a ferry going to samar and our battery died, good thing my brod brought a spare battery in anticipation for the trouble.
Production and ownership doesnt have that much gap between m/t and a/t nowadays since technology of A/T already improved. A/T using big oil coolers can haul heavy load, provincial buses with Man badge uses ZF automatics.
Di ba may neutral mode din naman ang A/T? Nang ayaw mag start ang honda ESI, pina tow ko siya in neutral mode at okay naman siya. That was year 2000 pa kaya lang 2 years ago nag overheat siya bayaw ko nag drive at wala ako, nakalimutan ilagay sa neutral kaya nagkaroon ng trans slip pagkatapos buti lang may surplus ako nakuha for just 8K sa banawe.
What is "HARD TOWING" ba? Meron bang "SOFT TOWING?"
Here are some insights on A/T and Hard Towing: http://rav4world.com/forums/viewtopi...c5432c74173b52
if you put AT to N, it will require the fluid to cool it. yan ang pagkakaiba ng AT sa MT.. susunugin mo yung clutch ng N-gear.. remember AT have multiple clutches than MT. each gear has its own clutch that are way thin that you see in the MT.
thats why it should be towed with the drive shafts removed. you can tow if you LIFT the drive wheels. kung full-time 4wd, dapat nasa flat-bed.
some part-time 4wd have a transfer case disconnect mode (aka neutral mode).. like Dmax.
hard towing - towing * maximum loading at long periods of time.
hi sa mga naka AT, ano diskarte nyo sa baha? ngayun lang kasi kami nagka AT, hehe di ko alam kung pano to pagdating sa tubig.
just put it into 1 or lowest gear only, then drive with slight pressure on the brake pedals.
this is to minimize the wave you cause when forging the water.
for AT 4wds with Low position - switch to 4L then just set to 1.
Karamihan na din ng lumalabas ngayon matic na kaya minsan no choice...
oliver - i think the marketdictated that. kaya most matics are on the top-level trim, mga manual restricted to the base model..
deym!
kaya no choice.. kung sana nga pwede kang mamili before you buy--parang burgers-- ung prenuim ginagawa lang upon order.
pero cost-cutting din kasi,e...
me want the options of the exalta granduer/STA but sadly matic lang siya available...
and the g.livinia MT is semi-stripped down.. the lux ver is only avail in AT..
yung innova V, matic lang din.. but nga yung AT na avanza trip meter lang difference sa 1.5MT.
swift na AT at MT identical sa equipment.
i used to drive m/ts. i had misconceptions then about a/ts being slow, gas guzzler and not so powerful.
then i purchased a sorento a/t and my eyes were opened to the convenience, comfort and driving pleasure using a/ts. the sorento is such a pleasure to drive that i sometimes i dont use my driver anymore even for long trips. now, i will never go back to m/ts.
in fact i recently purchased a strada (gen 2 lang, walang pambili bago) and i opted for a/t. mind you, i do mainly drive my vehicles in the province but still i prefer a/ts.
why? because im just a regular driver, not the racing type, not even the offroader type.
as for the fuel consumption, i suspect i even made better fuel consumption with a/t because i usually lift off my foot when driving to take advantage of the free wheeling mode of a/ts when coasting.
just my 02 cents and change![]()
Ilagay mo sa L then apply a little pressure sa brake.
pag bigla ka naman hiuminto sa gitna ng baha, ilagay mo kaagad sa neutral then rev the engine pero its a myth.
hindi naman papasok ang tubig sa exhaust as long as umaandar ang engine.
check your brakes lang pagka ahon sa baha,![]()
my observation kaya mostly matic ang available, dahil sa haba ng warranty nowadays, minimum na ang 3 yrs or 100K kms at yung iba 5 yrs pa. pag matic no way ma puwersa mo each gear and the whole engine therefore lesser ang potential damage sa engine. 3-5 years time? i don't think bibigay ang matic kung di aabusuhin
hilig pa naman ng pinoy sa modifications. do you think kung may SIR pa na manual ilalaban nila ng 3yrs warranty or 100K kms.?
isa pa mas mahal maintenance ng matic kahit saan tingnan, therefore again mas malaki kikitain ng casaanother is very prone sa damage like baha, wrong gear selection at certain speed etc. esp kung ang ilang new owner ay walang hilig mag-ingat at gamit lang ng gamit. IMO
Matic for comfort and long distance. I'm a long time manual driver at nagsawa rin ako kaka-shift.
Try driving in Makati during rush hours for 6 years. That made me choose matic.
I've been driving for 38 years and I drive fast and hard so it will always be M/T for me. The only time I had an A/T was when I had an Accord and it really drove me crazy at times.
I frequently do long trips to remote places so I can't risk an A/T. You are so dependent on your battery and a lot of unexpected things can happen that can drain your battery. Once your battery goes dead and you have an A/T, you're kaput. With an M/T, just push it and ergo, you're on the road again.
In offroading, unless you have traction control, then it's better to use an M/T. Try going down a steep slippery road in A/T and you'll understand what I mean. Step on the brakes just with a little more force than necessary and you'll slide all the way down without any control. Your ABS won't help at all. With an M/T, just put it in 4L-1st gear and you can have a well-controlled descent all the way down without stepping on the brakes. Just taking off your foot from the accelerator will already result to a very, very low crawl that it's almost like stopping without any of the dangers associated with it.