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  1. Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    130
    #31
    hello guys, we've decided to go for the 00 and up lynxs. Im now in search of manual type but so far this is what i got:

    270k 2001gsi 71kmileage
    290k 2000ghia 43kmileage
    260k 2000ghia 80kmilieage

    all of this i believe needs very minor repairs.. is this good already? my budget is max 300k only. thanks

  2. Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    130
    #32
    I already bought an 01 m/t Ford Lynx Gsi...

  3. Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Posts
    2,307
    #33
    congrats on your purchase!

    check http://www.fordclubph.com for more info on your ride
    Got Mazda?-http://www.MAZDAtech.org [SIZE="1"]est. 2000[/SIZE]
    got mazda 2? -> mazda2ners

  4. Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    5,467
    #34
    congrats....

  5. Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    22,704
    #35
    Congrats, visit the ford club, and wrap that cam position sensor with insulation ASAP! Happy motoring!

    Ang pagbalik ng comeback...

  6. Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    1
    #36
    What are the important functions of Cam Position Sensor? Thanks!

  7. Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    22,704
    #37
    electronic control and timing. Basically, when this acts up, the car will stall for a few minutes. When it cools down again, it will drive as normal. Last I heard, price for the piece itself was around 4k-5k. Service (depending on how long it takes) plus the part is 5k-7k, and can be done in one day. It's a common problem but not widespread, some people never get it, and it's really due to excessive heat and traffic conditions.

    Once you replace it, everything should be fine for at least another 50,000-70,000 kilometers. Just think of it as a regular maintenance item, like timing belts.

    Ang pagbalik ng comeback...

  8. Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Posts
    1,621
    #38
    niky,

    what is it with mazda engines anyway? that wretched cam position sensor is also busted on my 626 engine, except in the 626 it's integrated in the bloody expensive 25,000 petot distributor (buti nalang meron nang distributor for $180 sa US.. am planning to order one soon). it's extremely funny that the distributor costs like 15% to 20% of the residual value of the car. at least it doesn't stall the car, just causes the timing not to advance at high rpms.

  9. Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    22,704
    #39
    Is that it, kaya? I'm experiencing bogging at over 4000 rpms when things get hot.

    Saan yung source mo (local) for the distributor? Kia Pasay pa rin ba?

    It's a natural thing, I guess. Mazda engines run very hot, for emissions reasons, and the in-bay temperature has a "cooking" effect of any unprotected electricals or electronics inside. The Miata club guys also say that they have to be careful of heat on track. It's not a problem you get if you're the first owner, or if the car is driven in clement weather, but in summer traffic or on the racetrack, you've got to take precautions... especially if the car is going on ten or twelve years old, like ours are.

    Kaya nga, the guys in the fordclub who run their Lynxes and Lynx RS's hard have all got insulation wrapped around everything. It works. The TRS Lynxes had some initial problems due to sensor malfunctions when things got hot, (especially as they had red-hot headers and airfilter elements sharing the engine bay) but after a good wrapping with heat-insulation, they've been running reliably. That they lasted these past three years under the abuse TRS puts them through is testament to that.

    I'm planning to do it, but I haven't had time. Maybe this weekend, I will, as, thanks to the damn rallies, I'm not going to be able to go north.
    Last edited by niky; February 24th, 2006 at 03:52 PM.

    Ang pagbalik ng comeback...

  10. Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Posts
    1,621
    #40
    Niky, if you're experiencing bogging at higher RPM's it's almost certainly the camshaft position sensor inside the distributor.

    I experience it at 2000rpm (sometimes) and definitely at 3000. I think the ECU has preprogrammed shift points at 2000, 3000, and 4000rpm to advance the timing. Because, if it bogs at 2000rpm, turning the engine off for even 10 seconds usually resets it, and I can go higher (it's hard to drive with a 2000rpm rev limiter).

    But at 3000rpm, it gets "provoked" again. :P So I don't exceed 3000. Kind of limits how fast one can drive, but at least it's economical.

    The 25k quote for the distributor was at Autorama. I believe the casa price is closer to 50k (a friend with an Exsior paid 50k for his distributor at the casa).

    But there are several guys on ebay who sell FS01 distributors for much cheaper. "Distributor King" sells it for $175 with a very generous warranty (although claiming it from a Canadian seller would cost a lot due to shipping).

    The 6000-petot surplus distributors from Banawe are no good, they're the FS07 distributor for the auto-tranny 626.

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2nd hand Ford Lynx still a good buy?