2nd hand Ford Lynx still a good buy?

[reuelc]

I already bought an 01 m/t Ford Lynx Gsi...

[caloyski5]

congrats on your purchase!

check http://www.fordclubph.com for more info on your ride

[basti08]

congrats....

[niky]

Congrats, visit the ford club, and wrap that cam position sensor with insulation ASAP! Happy motoring!

[reuelc]

Congrats, visit the ford club, and wrap that cam position sensor with insulation ASAP! Happy motoring!

sir pano po ba ito and pwede ba diy? kung sa labas san po kaya pwede?

so far ok naman ang ride and im very satisfied with everything except for the weird sound na naririnig ko sa likod. Di naman sya malakas tumunog and di naman kadalas tumudog pero yung sound nya is like tools na gumulong sa trunk. Medyo modified kasi nung nakuha ko... naka lowering springs sya. According to our mechanic e sa spring nga daw... And nung pinacheck ko e wala naman makitang problem sa suspension since mga bago pa. Ayoko naman ibalik yung stock na springs since ok naman porma. I want to have this fixed by a pro.. may suggestions ba kayo na malapit lang sa makati or mandaluyong? Thanks

By the way here is my ride...

[Easyco]

Congrats, visit the ford club, and wrap that cam position sensor with insulation ASAP! Happy motoring!

Sir, where is the location of the CPS ?? i want to follow your tip, wrap it with insulation ... i already found the MAF , will i wrap it too ? my mechanic told me to wrap also the tube going inside the firewall of the car ... i think it is the return tube for the a/c ...

[niky]

electronic control and timing. Basically, when this acts up, the car will stall for a few minutes. When it cools down again, it will drive as normal. Last I heard, price for the piece itself was around 4k-5k. Service (depending on how long it takes) plus the part is 5k-7k, and can be done in one day. It's a common problem but not widespread, some people never get it, and it's really due to excessive heat and traffic conditions.

Once you replace it, everything should be fine for at least another 50,000-70,000 kilometers. Just think of it as a regular maintenance item, like timing belts.

[orly_andico]

niky,

what is it with mazda engines anyway? that wretched cam position sensor is also busted on my 626 engine, except in the 626 it's integrated in the bloody expensive 25,000 petot distributor (buti nalang meron nang distributor for $180 sa US.. am planning to order one soon). it's extremely funny that the distributor costs like 15% to 20% of the residual value of the car. at least it doesn't stall the car, just causes the timing not to advance at high rpms.

[niky]

Is that it, kaya? I'm experiencing bogging at over 4000 rpms when things get hot.

Saan yung source mo (local) for the distributor? Kia Pasay pa rin ba?

It's a natural thing, I guess. Mazda engines run very hot, for emissions reasons, and the in-bay temperature has a "cooking" effect of any unprotected electricals or electronics inside. The Miata club guys also say that they have to be careful of heat on track. It's not a problem you get if you're the first owner, or if the car is driven in clement weather, but in summer traffic or on the racetrack, you've got to take precautions... especially if the car is going on ten or twelve years old, like ours are.

Kaya nga, the guys in the fordclub who run their Lynxes and Lynx RS's hard have all got insulation wrapped around everything. It works. The TRS Lynxes had some initial problems due to sensor malfunctions when things got hot, (especially as they had red-hot headers and airfilter elements sharing the engine bay) but after a good wrapping with heat-insulation, they've been running reliably. That they lasted these past three years under the abuse TRS puts them through is testament to that.

I'm planning to do it, but I haven't had time. Maybe this weekend, I will, as, thanks to the damn rallies, I'm not going to be able to go north.

[kayrmarcos]

Is that it, kaya? I'm experiencing bogging at over 4000 rpms when things get hot.

Saan yung source mo (local) for the distributor? Kia Pasay pa rin ba?

It's a natural thing, I guess. Mazda engines run very hot, for emissions reasons, and the in-bay temperature has a "cooking" effect of any unprotected electricals or electronics inside. The Miata club guys also say that they have to be careful of heat on track. It's not a problem you get if you're the first owner, or if the car is driven in clement weather, but in summer traffic or on the racetrack, you've got to take precautions... especially if the car is going on ten or twelve years old, like ours are.

Kaya nga, the guys in the fordclub who run their Lynxes and Lynx RS's hard have all got insulation wrapped around everything. It works. The TRS Lynxes had some initial problems due to sensor malfunctions when things got hot, (especially as they had red-hot headers and airfilter elements sharing the engine bay) but after a good wrapping with heat-insulation, they've been running reliably. That they lasted these past three years under the abuse TRS puts them through is testament to that.

I'm planning to do it, but I haven't had time. Maybe this weekend, I will, as, thanks to the damn rallies, I'm not going to be able to go north.

Sir Niky,
My car has a newly installed camshaft sensor. I really hope it won't be stalling anymore. Now, I read from your previous posts that most ford owners wrap insulators around some electronics inside. Can you please tell me how to do it? Am really not into cars, but am the one driving it because my husband is out of the country, so if there is anything I can do to prevent it from stalling I will. Where can I buy these heat insulators? Is it found in Citi Hardware? How will I inquire about it from the salesman..or what do I call these insulators? Lastly, what do I need to insulate? I am planning to bring my Ford Lynx to a mechanic to do the wrapping for me, cause I really don't know about the different parts. Please help. Big Thanks!

[niky]

The wrapping for the racing cars is primarily because they use metal intake tubes, not the stock plastic ones.

There's not much you can do about insulating the cam position sensor or the ignition coils, since they are on the engine themselves. If you've replaced the cam position sensor, it should last you another few years, anyway. ;)

[orly_andico]

Niky, if you're experiencing bogging at higher RPM's it's almost certainly the camshaft position sensor inside the distributor.

I experience it at 2000rpm (sometimes) and definitely at 3000. I think the ECU has preprogrammed shift points at 2000, 3000, and 4000rpm to advance the timing. Because, if it bogs at 2000rpm, turning the engine off for even 10 seconds usually resets it, and I can go higher (it's hard to drive with a 2000rpm rev limiter).

But at 3000rpm, it gets "provoked" again. :P So I don't exceed 3000. Kind of limits how fast one can drive, but at least it's economical.

The 25k quote for the distributor was at Autorama. I believe the casa price is closer to 50k (a friend with an Exsior paid 50k for his distributor at the casa).

But there are several guys on ebay who sell FS01 distributors for much cheaper. "Distributor King" sells it for $175 with a very generous warranty (although claiming it from a Canadian seller would cost a lot due to shipping).

The 6000-petot surplus distributors from Banawe are no good, they're the FS07 distributor for the auto-tranny 626.

[niky]

Thanks for the info... Off-Topic closed.

[baiskee]

congrats! pa check mo sa cruven or zee. ;)

[reuelc]

thanks. saan po exact location ng cruven or zee?

[baiskee]

FYI http://tsikot.yehey.com/forums/showt...ght=cruven+zee

[reuelc]

ok thanks. zee = ziebart carsavers ba?

[baiskee]

ok thanks. zee = ziebart carsavers ba?

no ser, cruven and zee are suspension shops. iba po yung ziebart.

[an0nim0us]

that's a nice-lookin car! ano yung mags, 17in ba? about that noise, check mo lang if the jack's snugly mounted dun right side under the plastic cover, may foam yun and a handle-bolt. make sure lang na mahigpit baka yun lang yung tumutunog. Another possibility the rear shocks.

[niky]

Before you have it looked at, check your tools and your jack. I hear similar sounds all the time (medyo thin yung sound insulation, eh)... but it's also possible that some of the rubber bushing in the spring mount has given way... kinda simple to replace.