Originally Posted by
niky
To set the record straight (and perhaps I will do an article on this in Top Gear this month, to clear up misconceptions).
Higher tire pressure results in better handling, up to a point.
The smaller the contact patch, the more concentrated the force on the road. This is because you have more weight over a smaller area.
Off-road, you want a softer tire, for a bigger contact patch, because you want less pressure on the road, so the tires will float, not sink.
Stiffer tires mean better handling because steering response is more immediate. The sidewalls don't flex, so when you turn, input at the wheel equals response from the tires right away. With softer tires, there's squidge. The firmer sidewalls means that your contact patch when turning is dead center on the tread, not the sides of the tires, which are not as sticky.
Stiffer tires show less wear. Radial tires don't bulge like old bias-ply tires, so center wear usually isn't a problem. Only tires I've had that showed center wear from 40 psi pressure were extra-sticky Neovas that were designed for track use. I use 45 psi on the Crosswind, and I still get more edge wear than center wear. 45 psi on the CR-V, and tread wear is completely even.
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Now... this is all true... up to a point. The point is the pressure at which the tires start to "dribble". Tires that "bounce" don't have braking grip. And braking grip is important. If your suspension can't control tire motion, then you should lower the psi a little. Then there's the problem that very stiff tires tramline a lot on the highway (follow the grooves and contours of the road). If this bothers you, lower the pressure until the steering feels natural.
Otherwise, experiment away. You will not approach the safe inflation limits of the tire until long after they become uncomfortable to ride on. I'm betting best balance of economy and comfort on a car this weight might be between 35-38 psi.
Daming issue ng SU7:grin:
Xiaomi E-Car