Results 741 to 750 of 1687
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December 13th, 2017 11:03 AM #741
Window...Pana or Hitachi.
When Daikin re-entered PH w/ Alenaire(that partnership broke) & had to serve the window AC demand, only Panasonic passed their standards. Briefly, Window Daikins of that time were rebadged Panasonics.
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Carpe Diem
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December 13th, 2017 11:12 AM #742Our window type kolin inverter is still going strong.. running almost 24/7.. would only be shut down for a couple of hours when the bedroom is being cleaned or the unit's filter needs washing.
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December 13th, 2017 11:19 AM #743
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December 13th, 2017 11:27 AM #744
Hmm... In light of that, I'll consider LG then. We already have an LG inverter ref that had been solid.
I had to ask because I received a very good offer for a new Samsung kasi. Heavily discounted with part of the install services subsidized. But then again, they're probably doing that as a desperate move to regain market share. And truth be told, we currently have about 6 Samsung inverter A/Cs installed and four of them have had issues one way or another (ie. logic board replacement, compressor leak, and then some).
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December 14th, 2017 12:22 AM #745
Some OCD tips....
-Always request for drainpipes larger than their "standard" 3/4". When drain & dirt mix, the jelly formed can easily clog the line.
-Install your wall units on perimeter walls, if you can...where the tubes go straight out the structure. Keep future interior leak risks at the minimum.
-Ceiling cassette units have drain pumps. When the pump goes....instant leak. Avoid these. The blown air hits the ceiling & leaves dirt you'll have to clean or paint over.
-Never allow insulated tubes running thru ceilings bare. Do not believe when they say the lines are properly wrapped. When humid air hits a cold line, condensation is instant. They must be guttered.
-Whenever possible, do not embed lines in concrete or dry walls. They are best hidden behind removable cladding or covers guised as vertical spouts. You'll be glad you did come repair or replacement time.
Collateral damage on walls & ceilings from mere condensation will be unsightly & costly. In areas where you've electrical lines running, moisture contamination can be disastrous. Plus, repaired walls where old plaster meets new will never be as good as virgin 1s.
-Find the shortest distance to the condensing unit. This will optimize cooling efficiency.
-Tubes must have no joints except on the ends of indoor & outdoor units. This will lessen leak risk & make future troubleshooting a lot easier. Pressure test them prior to installation & activation of AC.
And....if you have an issue w/ privacy & strangers coming into your rooms for the entire duration of AC cleaning or servicing; if you can sleep & live w/ AC noise; & if you are not conscious of looks....be practical....GO WINDOW. They're cheaper. Washes are done outside. Swaps are instant & DIYable.
The experienced architects & engineers I know who design & build like the structures were their own..... share all the above.[emoji4]
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December 14th, 2017 11:02 AM #746
The slime that forms on the condensate catch or pan which eventually clogs the drain is caused by bacterial growth. In the US at least, you can buy a bottle of condensate treatment tablets. You put a tablet in the drain catch/pan and it will prevent or reduce gel formation.
Now, does anyone know if this is available locally?
My quick and dirty approach to temporarily clear up a clogged drain is to use a wet-dry vacuum cleaner and unclog it from the outside. The problem returns in a few weeks and it will not help if the gel formation is on the condensate pan itself.
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December 14th, 2017 11:09 AM #747
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December 14th, 2017 09:30 PM #748
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Verified Tsikot Member
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March 30th, 2018 09:49 PM #749Replaced our 12 yr old 1hp kolin window type aircon, no issues with it... with a Kolin 1.5hp Window type inverter..so far its ok, i hope it wont have any issues.
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March 30th, 2018 10:04 PM #750
For the most part, he's ok. Except for the way he tests the film strengths of motor oils using the...
Liquid tire sealant