2012 Kia Rio

[rio5]

[QUOTE=valacirca;2001094]

what do you mean manual computation, sir?

how do you compute your fuel consumption manuall without relying on the built-in display/computation of the Rio?

hi valacirca ito gawin mo full tank ka yun auto stop lang yun first click lang ng gas pump then reset mo trip A mo,now drive your car for at least 50 kilometers or more, better kung a week then fill up again if possible same pump and same time,auto stop then record mo ilang liters lumabas sa gas pump,example yun trip meter mo nag register ng 137 kilometers and yun reading ng pump mo is 24.08 liters, divede mo 137 sa 24.08 you get your average fuel consumption.

[rio5]

i was just wondering kung yun previous model ng kia rio is the same engine or different sa rio ngayon? kasi wala silang problem sa fc at may mga taxi pa nga ako nakikita.

[c_cube]

hi c_cube natuloy ka pala sa pag test ng auto mo,ask ko lang did you mention to them na hindi accurate yan nasa display cluster natin na AVERAGE FUEL ECOMY,malaki difference nila,kasi sakin lumalabas don mga 8.5km/L pero pag compute manually nasa 7km/L lang.and so dahil dyan sa test na ginawa sayo we have to accept na ganito na talaga fc ng rio5,well i guess sa mga future buyers ng rio5 dyan,kung kaya nyo gas guzzler na sub compact na auto na ma porma this is it hehehehe

hindi talaga accurate ang sa MID natin. masmababa lagi ng 0.7km sa manual computation. Most of the time ganun nakukuha kong difference eh.

FUNNY ng CAC.. dapat gagamit kami ng manual computation dahil may dala siyang "FUEL PET" pero ito ang nangyari.... yun dala ng taga CAC ay SIRA!!!! hindi gumagana. Tapos dapat kukuha kami sa office nila sa pasay pero nahiram daw ng isang dealer... 2 lang daw ang ganun ng CAC, sabi ko nga eh, laking company niyo 2 lang ganyan niyo, napa smile nalang si kuya hahaha!

[niky]

Regarding gearing, here's a comparison of the 1.2 MT and the 1.4 AT:


The solid lines are the 1.2 liter manual, the dotted lines the 1.4 automatic.

Wherever the solid lines are higher, the 1.2 is putting more power to the ground than the 1.4. Wherever the dotted lines are higher, the 1.4 is putting more power to the ground.

Notice also, that when you shift from first gear to second, malayo pa siya sa peak torque (for the 1.4).

Notice how long first and second gear are on the 1.4. First gear goes past 60 km/h, second well past 120. Not ideal for a small engine. This reminds me of the 1.6 liter Mazda3, a car which had people complaining about fuel economy. When I drove it, fuel economy was not that bad. The issue was the gearing was so long that drivers felt "bitin" and stepped on the gas harder to make it accelerate.

The 1.2, on the other hand, lacks power at high speeds, but it has good acceleration in second gear, so the driver doesn't really mind. Second gear for the 1.4 is very, very loooong. I've driven the 1.4 4AT sedan and the 1.2 MT sedan. The 1.2 feels much more peppy and more fun. The 1.4 feels sluggish and heavy. And it's all because of the gear ratios.

hi niky i was wondering if you own all this car or simply a motoring guy who get the chance to test drive all this different cars and post a review,sayang lang kasi kung nauna review mo sa kia rio5 baka nag dalawang isip ako na bilhin ito hehehehe

Work for bigbigcar.com and kotse.com. I didn't have a full test drive of the Rio 1.4. I picked it up for another writer at Kia and dropped it off at his place. On that list, the Rio 1.2 would be around 8. Lots better because it's a manual.

niky may kinalaman ba talaga tire size sa fuel economy?

Heavier wheels and tires are harder to accelerate. On an inertial dyno, like at Autoplus, 17" wheels can rob a small engine like the Rio's of 5-10 horsepower versus 14" or 15" rims.

[valacirca]

hindi talaga accurate ang sa MID natin. masmababa lagi ng 0.7km sa manual computation. Most of the time ganun nakukuha kong difference eh.

hindi accurate yan nasa display cluster natin na AVERAGE FUEL ECOMY,malaki difference nila,kasi sakin lumalabas don mga 8.5km/L pero pag compute manually nasa 7km/L lang.

Hm. Sir, hindi po ba ang contradicting yung observation ninyo ni c_cube and rio5?

Ang intindi ko sa sinasabi ni c_cube is mas mababa yung nasa display compared sa manual comp. Ang intindi ko naman sa sinasabi ni rio5 is mas mataas yung nasa display compared sa manual comp? Tama po ba?

hi valacirca ito gawin mo full tank ka yun auto stop lang yun first click lang ng gas pump then reset mo trip A mo, now drive your car for at least 50 kilometers or more, better kung a week then fill up again if possible same pump and same time,auto stop then record mo ilang liters lumabas sa gas pump,example yun trip meter mo nag register ng 137 kilometers and yun reading ng pump mo is 24.08 liters, divede mo 137 sa 24.08 you get your average fuel consumption.

1. Pa-full tank ka
2. Reset Trip meter
3. Sa next na full tank mo.. take note kung ilang liters nakarga mo..
4. Read the trip meter kung ilan tinakbo ng kotse

Trip meter/Liters = FC mo

Ah okay, gets. Thanks. Pero obviously magiging mixed driving ang resulta nito diba? Kasi hindi naman natin macocontrol yung driving conditions? Minsan light ang traffic, minsan bumper-to-bumper. Ginagawa ko kasi currently, nirereset ko yung "L/100km" na reading every morning before going to work and every evening before going home, kaya yung makukuha kong reading, alam kong within the context nung driving conditions nung umaga/gabing yun.

[rio5]

hi niky ive read sa yahoo answers that the OEM programming is not best for milage,but best for emission,is this true? does the rio5 euro3 compliant really affects the fuel economy, thats why some owners they install this ECU chips that increases torque and saves fuel

[rio5]

Hm. Sir, hindi po ba ang contradicting yung observation ninyo ni c_cube and rio5?

Ang intindi ko sa sinasabi ni c_cube is mas mababa yung nasa display compared sa manual comp. Ang intindi ko naman sa sinasabi ni rio5 is mas mataas yung nasa display compared sa manual comp? Tama po ba?


Ah okay, gets. Thanks. Pero obviously magiging mixed driving ang resulta nito diba? Kasi hindi naman natin macocontrol yung driving conditions? Minsan light ang traffic, minsan bumper-to-bumper. Ginagawa ko kasi currently, nirereset ko yung "L/100km" na reading every morning before going to work and every evening before going home, kaya yung makukuha kong reading, alam kong within the context nung driving conditions nung umaga/gabing yun.

for this test valacirca try not to reset everything until you get the result

[c_cube]

*valacirca

ibig kong sabihin masmababa lagi ang nakukuhang mileage pag manual computation.

From the MID at manual computation, magdedeperensya ng 0.7km or almost 1 km from the MID na computation.

for example; 10L/100KMS = 10km/l (from MID) pero paginamitan ng manual computation, nagiging 9km/l nalang (distance traveled / liters of fuel, first click)

[niky]

hi niky ive read sa yahoo answers that the OEM programming is not best for milage,but best for emission,is this true? does the rio5 euro3 compliant really affects the fuel economy, thats why some owners they install this ECU chips that increases torque and saves fuel

Depends. But usually, stock tuning is on the "safe" side. To keep an engine from "knocking" and to keep heat low to prevent valve recession (where the heat causes valves to micro-weld themselves to the valve seat every time they close, causing it to recede), stock tuning runs a little rich... or very rich if the manufacturer cannot guarantee the safety of fuel in the country where the car is being sold.

This is particularly true in Southeast Asia, where feed a car our fuel is about as safe as drinking canal water. The gasoline Toyota Revo ran so rich that air-fuel ratios at idle were 10:1 (typical AFR for most cars at idle is 14.7:1 or higher... higher means less fuel being burned). The Mazda Familia also had terrible fuel maps, and the high performance Mazdaspeed Familia ECU actually gave both more power and better economy.

Perhaps due to the Accent knocking issue, Kia erred on the side of safety when programming the Rio ECU. Easiest route to retuning here is to buy a Unichip and have the car retuned.

[valacirca]

Ano ibig sabhin ng "first click"? :D Hehe.

[rio5]

Depends. But usually, stock tuning is on the "safe" side. To keep an engine from "knocking" and to keep heat low to prevent valve recession (where the heat causes valves to micro-weld themselves to the valve seat every time they close, causing it to recede), stock tuning runs a little rich... or very rich if the manufacturer cannot guarantee the safety of fuel in the country where the car is being sold.

This is particularly true in Southeast Asia, where feed a car our fuel is about as safe as drinking canal water. The gasoline Toyota Revo ran so rich that air-fuel ratios at idle were 10:1 (typical AFR for most cars at idle is 14.7:1 or higher... higher means less fuel being burned). The Mazda Familia also had terrible fuel maps, and the high performance Mazdaspeed Familia ECU actually gave both more power and better economy.

Perhaps due to the Accent knocking issue, Kia erred on the side of safety when programming the Rio ECU. Easiest route to retuning here is to buy a Unichip and have the car retuned.

its very enlightening to have you here niky, so is it safe to say na kailangan namin ng unichip for us to have a satisfying FC? san maka bili nito? who will install this?does it affect our warranty? one more question niky,how about our aircon system isa din kasi ito sa hinala ko for bad FC? meron sya heater. and iba sya sa toyota na you can hear yun thermostat na mag automatic click from time to time sa rio wala as in para ka lang naka fan

[rio5]

Ano ibig sabhin ng "first click"? :D Hehe.

it means stop automatically when you fill up

[valacirca]

^ Ah oks. Hehe thanks. So sabihin ko lang dun sa boy: "Tsip, full tank" tapos siya na bahala :D

[valacirca]

fwiw, Shell Fuel Save (regular unleaded) yung kinakarga ko ngayon sa Rio. No problems with it whatsoever so far

[niky]

its very enlightening to have you here niky, so is it safe to say na kailangan namin ng unichip for us to have a satisfying FC? san maka bili nito? who will install this?does it affect our warranty? one more question niky,how about our aircon system isa din kasi ito sa hinala ko for bad FC? meron sya heater. and iba sya sa toyota na you can hear yun thermostat na mag automatic click from time to time sa rio wala as in para ka lang naka fan

Want to save, turn AC thermostat down.

Unichip might save you gas, but I don't know if it's worth buying just for that. (30,000 pesos). Still, the extra power is always fun.

[c_cube]

Want to save, turn AC thermostat down.

Unichip might save you gas, but I don't know if it's worth buying just for that. (30,000 pesos). Still, the extra power is always fun.

Sinubukan ko ito with the technical ng cac..

Kahit coolest setting ang ac tas itaas mo sa 24 deg c, same consumption lang. Hindi kasi nagbago yun injection time dun sa gadget na kinakabit nun sabi ko sa technical na subukan namin kung magbabago ba consumption (during idle)

kung gusto makatipid, dont turn on the ac, dahil bumababa talaga yun injection time. Kahit nga tinodo ko yun fan speed tas coolest setting, hindi nagbago yun consumption eh. So para tipid sa gas, wag mag aircon, magtiis sa init hehehe!

Ang explantion sa akin ng technical, yun ac ng rio is constant ang lamig. Para bumawas ang lamig, bumubukas lang daw yun vent dun sa heater para matimpla yun temperature sa desired temp natin. Kaya sa pagkakaintindi ko sa kanya, yun cooler at heater laging naka on???? Then may vent lang para sa heater kung gusto mabawasan yun lamig.

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[niky]

Is he sure? You can listen to find out if the compressor really doesn't turn off. Or we could check it on the dyno sometime when we have another test unit.

[ratchet23]

Is he sure? You can listen to find out if the compressor really doesn't turn off. Or we could check it on the dyno sometime when we have another test unit.

Not a Rio pero sa ACC ng sorento di dinig yung switching ng compressor. Pero I doubt na di namamatay compressor.

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[c_cube]

Is he sure? You can listen to find out if the compressor really doesn't turn off. Or we could check it on the dyno sometime when we have another test unit.

From what i noticed, the compressor will turn off if I disabled the AC even if the blower is still working. but setting the temp higher (hotter) - didnt notice any changes from it.

I tried this several times before, but i could be wrong. Pero wala talagang ako maramdaman na namamatay compressor kahit taasan ko temp setting eh.

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[chua_allan]

I agree with c_cube

Ang alam ko laging tumatakbo ang compressor ng rio5. Yun din sabi ng kuya ko. Nagtitimpla ang hot and cold. Not on off ng compressor.. The only time na naririnig or ramdam yung pag off on ng compressor is literally turning the AC switch on and off