Diesel Fuel Injection System Help Desk

**coiter** · February 8th, 2011 10:11 AM

Hi,

I'm not sure if this is the right thread but I might as well give it a try. I have a terrano with TD27 engine. When in idle and aircon is off, the rpm is 750 (I had this adjusted already. before it was 950-1000) but when the compressor kicks in, it rises to 1000. Is there a way to change the idle speed, maybe through an adjustment screw of the idle up, to lower it to around 800-850 when the compressor is on?

TIA

**Dieseldude** · February 8th, 2011 02:01 PM

Originally Posted by coiter

Hi,

I'm not sure if this is the right thread but I might as well give it a try. I have a terrano with TD27 engine. When in idle and aircon is off, the rpm is 750 (I had this adjusted already. before it was 950-1000) but when the compressor kicks in, it rises to 1000. Is there a way to change the idle speed, maybe through an adjustment screw of the idle up, to lower it to around 800-850 when the compressor is on?

TIA

Yes, there are two adjusting screws, one w/o aircon, the other w/ aircon on.

**transporter2** · February 8th, 2011 02:02 PM

Sir Dieseldude, normal lang ba to sa 2009 Euro2 compliant diesel advie. Mas maingay kasi engine nito compared sa ibang advie engine(malagitik). Out of nothing naisipan kong i-bleed yung fuel, then after bleeding the fuel using plunger built in the manual pump sobrang air ang lumalabas. First 3 pump pure air lang, then another 3 pump fuel with bubbles na. After 7th pump of the plunger pure fuel na, thats the time i close tight the bleeding screw. Noticeable na nawala yung ingay. Fuel level don't get below half on gauge and no signs of fuel leaking out. Problem is, after driving just 150kms I still purge out almost same amount of air. As much as possible I want to D.I.Y this baby so STEPS to isolate whats causing the problem is a big help. Until I got answers to questions like "will a leak in hose from fuel filter to injection pump introduce air back to fuel filter thats why I'm purging too much air everytime?" then I'll be visiting a specialist shop like yours soon.
Sorry for the long post. :-) Yung L300 ko kasi di ganun sobra dami ng air when i fuel bleed it.

**arionyoshi** · February 8th, 2011 02:08 PM

Originally Posted by Dieseldude

Use soft cloth to remove rust. Try to limit rust from falling into the filler tube. But if it does, don't worry about this. Your fuel filter is supposed to arrest this.

Thank you very much sir!!!

**sag0** · February 13th, 2011 05:21 PM

hi sir dieseldude! na-discuss na po ba dito sa thread regarding diesel tuning chip boxes? particularly the donator, the racechip pro, the italian box, etc. and how are they compared with the fully programmable (but much more expensive) dpchip and unichip?

any feedbacks/comments on this? especially the long-term effects? i'm planning on getting one and i am gathering all the info i can get before taking the plunge...

thanks!

**saulctg** · February 13th, 2011 07:56 PM

Originally Posted by sag0

hi sir dieseldude! na-discuss na po ba dito sa thread regarding diesel tuning chip boxes? particularly the donator, the racechip pro, the italian box, etc. and how are they compared with the fully programmable (but much more expensive) dpchip and unichip?

any feedbacks/comments on this? especially the long-term effects? i'm planning on getting one and i am gathering all the info i can get before taking the plunge...

thanks!

-----------------------------
same for my inquiry also. thanks.

**Dieseldude** · February 13th, 2011 11:19 PM

Tuning boxes drive the stock ecu to push the engine for more power. More power means more air and fuel feed, higher combustion pressures, and hotter exhaust temps, etc. These are deviations from the basic engine design.

Various engines have their own life expectancies depending on how they are driven and loaded. If you expect to have an engine life of 250k kms,, this will be shortened, depending on how the tuning box is adjusted to overdrive the engine, and how you drive your car.

Racing people know this, but they are after power and speed, not engine life.

**dadz** · February 14th, 2011 01:06 PM

Originally Posted by Dieseldude

Tuning boxes drive the stock ecu to push the engine for more power. More power means more air and fuel feed, higher combustion pressures, and hotter exhaust temps, etc. These are deviations from the basic engine design.

Various engines have their own life expectancies depending on how they are driven and loaded. If you expect to have an engine life of 250k kms,, this will be shortened, depending on how the tuning box is adjusted to overdrive the engine, and how you drive your car.

Racing people know this, but they are after power and speed, not engine life.

Tama po ito im a deisel perfromance tuner po..................i install and tuned a fully programable chips in thailand, malaysia and philippines.

Pag gumamit po kayo nag Commonrail chip what it does is to increase the commonrail pressure above its limits, chips like this need to be balance with your commonrail. So if your chip is only a plug and play and no hardware alteration it only means one thing, nag sayang kayo nag pera, with out altering the commonrail you can not increase the pressure.

Other chip is use for the injectors, chips like this alter the timing. It will open and close depending on the programming and a bit higher on your FC.
Also will really shorten you injectors life. Think that diesel engine injectors and not cheap.

If you will not race your rig better stay stock, better for the fuel and the environment.

**eugene emmanuel** · February 15th, 2011 08:23 PM

Originally Posted by takumi_san

Hi Mr. Dieseldude,

I have an 01 Pajero fieldmaster which i just got last december. lately i am having a cold starting problem. and when it starts, it emits black smoke. the black smoke is released only after it started but disappears w/in a second or 2. I heard from a certain forum that he was able to resolve the cold starting problem after they fixed his injection pump.

do you do this kind of service ?
how much will it cost and as well as the cleaning of the injectors?
do you think that i might be having same problem?

im also worried that my consumption is a bit abnormal. bet. 5-7 city driving.

what's your opinion in using injector cleaners such as stp, etc.?

thanks in advance for your feedback!

sir takumi san/diesel dude,
share ko lang po experience me abt pajero hardstarting
my ride is a 95 model pajero, local version with 4d56 tdic
hard start dn po..and after starting, may black smoke spurting at first, then light smoke followed while engine is still cold.

first action taken, replaced air filter...replaced all the glow plugs with good one...also found out that the glow plugs relay are not working..also replaced with original glow plug relay at php2300, and php300/each for glow plugs...medyo nabawasan ang redondo nya bago mag start5..dati mga 15 redondo bago mag start...after replacing relay and glow plugs, naging 10 redondo nalang...

2nd action taken, replaced fuel filter and fuel filter body with replacement brand only...bad move...not original fuel filter body have generally poor check valve mechanism/material w/c causes the back flow of diesel, thus contributing to hard starting.. no choice but sorted to original fuel filter body for php 3500, and original fuel filter element for php 1400 from mitsubishi motors... after replacing fuel filter and body, from 10 redondo naging5 redondo nalang...

3rd action taken, had my injectors and injection pump calibrated...and replaced worn out parts including all 4 nozzle tips, and some injection pump parts...caused me php 13800 for labor and materials... guess what, hard starting is completely solved...from 5 rodondo, now, it only take 1 redondo (crank) and the engine starts easily...with 1 heating cycle only and at cold weather...and i was happy because the noticeable tail pipe smoke is now a thing of the past...may konteng spurt of light smoke lang pag start ng engine and after that, wala nang makikitang usok, as in.. sinubukan ko nga ring itutok ilong ko few inches from tail pipe, d sya masakit sa ilong kumpara dati...
and mas naging responsive at maganda power ng engine at mas tumaas fuel mileage ko after those steps...

kaya i don't believe na sabi ng iba, sakit daw ng pajero ang hardstarting at black smoke...proper engine maintenance lang po...

hope sharing my experience helps...

thanks mga sirs.

**eugene emmanuel** · February 15th, 2011 08:31 PM

btw, i also brought my ride for smoke emission test before and after those steps taken.

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**Dieseldude** · February 16th, 2011 09:18 PM

Originally Posted by eugene emmanuel

sir takumi san/diesel dude,
share ko lang po experience me abt pajero hardstarting
my ride is a 95 model pajero, local version with 4d56 tdic
hard start dn po..and after starting, may black smoke spurting at first, then light smoke followed while engine is still cold.

first action taken, replaced air filter...replaced all the glow plugs with good one...also found out that the glow plugs relay are not working..also replaced with original glow plug relay at php2300, and php300/each for glow plugs...medyo nabawasan ang redondo nya bago mag start5..dati mga 15 redondo bago mag start...after replacing relay and glow plugs, naging 10 redondo nalang...

2nd action taken, replaced fuel filter and fuel filter body with replacement brand only...bad move...not original fuel filter body have generally poor check valve mechanism/material w/c causes the back flow of diesel, thus contributing to hard starting.. no choice but sorted to original fuel filter body for php 3500, and original fuel filter element for php 1400 from mitsubishi motors... after replacing fuel filter and body, from 10 redondo naging5 redondo nalang...

3rd action taken, had my injectors and injection pump calibrated...and replaced worn out parts including all 4 nozzle tips, and some injection pump parts...caused me php 13800 for labor and materials... guess what, hard starting is completely solved...from 5 rodondo, now, it only take 1 redondo (crank) and the engine starts easily...with 1 heating cycle only and at cold weather...and i was happy because the noticeable tail pipe smoke is now a thing of the past...may konteng spurt of light smoke lang pag start ng engine and after that, wala nang makikitang usok, as in.. sinubukan ko nga ring itutok ilong ko few inches from tail pipe, d sya masakit sa ilong kumpara dati...
and mas naging responsive at maganda power ng engine at mas tumaas fuel mileage ko after those steps...

kaya i don't believe na sabi ng iba, sakit daw ng pajero ang hardstarting at black smoke...proper engine maintenance lang po...

hope sharing my experience helps...

thanks mga sirs.

Thanks for sharing your experience Eugene. Tama yung troubleshooting steps ginawa mo, from simple to most difficult. And you were able to track performance improvement at each step........

**edtf** · February 17th, 2011 09:49 AM

great tips Eugene. Planning to condition a 4d56 soon too.

question lang for the diesel dudes
Mine has new filters starts well but emits smoke especially once you step on the throttle hard (to speed up nothing too harsh) I guess calibration is in order?

**Dieseldude** · February 17th, 2011 02:41 PM

Originally Posted by edtf

great tips Eugene. Planning to condition a 4d56 soon too.

question lang for the diesel dudes
Mine has new filters starts well but emits smoke especially once you step on the throttle hard (to speed up nothing too harsh) I guess calibration is in order?

Very possible.

**edward_651** · February 22nd, 2011 02:45 AM

Sir Dieseldude,

Pwede po pa-pm ng location ng shop niyo?

Balak ko kasi magpa-check up ng 00 Hilux 2.4 sa inyo, nag-eemit na black smoke kapag nasa 2k+ yung RPM. Otherwise naman, wala naman akong nakikitang ibang problem (Para naman pumasa legally yung kotse sa emissions testing haha)

Thanks

**Dieseldude** · February 22nd, 2011 09:50 AM

Originally Posted by edward_651

Sir Dieseldude,

Pwede po pa-pm ng location ng shop niyo?

Balak ko kasi magpa-check up ng 00 Hilux 2.4 sa inyo, nag-eemit na black smoke kapag nasa 2k+ yung RPM. Otherwise naman, wala naman akong nakikitang ibang problem (Para naman pumasa legally yung kotse sa emissions testing haha)

Thanks

I will PM you.

Check/replace air filter muna. Baka ma-solve na ang black smoke problem mo.

**hisoka101** · February 22nd, 2011 10:10 AM

Originally Posted by eugene emmanuel

sir takumi san/diesel dude,
share ko lang po experience me abt pajero hardstarting
my ride is a 95 model pajero, local version with 4d56 tdic
hard start dn po..and after starting, may black smoke spurting at first, then light smoke followed while engine is still cold.

first action taken, replaced air filter...replaced all the glow plugs with good one...also found out that the glow plugs relay are not working..also replaced with original glow plug relay at php2300, and php300/each for glow plugs...medyo nabawasan ang redondo nya bago mag start5..dati mga 15 redondo bago mag start...after replacing relay and glow plugs, naging 10 redondo nalang...

2nd action taken, replaced fuel filter and fuel filter body with replacement brand only...bad move...not original fuel filter body have generally poor check valve mechanism/material w/c causes the back flow of diesel, thus contributing to hard starting.. no choice but sorted to original fuel filter body for php 3500, and original fuel filter element for php 1400 from mitsubishi motors... after replacing fuel filter and body, from 10 redondo naging5 redondo nalang...

3rd action taken, had my injectors and injection pump calibrated...and replaced worn out parts including all 4 nozzle tips, and some injection pump parts...caused me php 13800 for labor and materials... guess what, hard starting is completely solved...from 5 rodondo, now, it only take 1 redondo (crank) and the engine starts easily...with 1 heating cycle only and at cold weather...and i was happy because the noticeable tail pipe smoke is now a thing of the past...may konteng spurt of light smoke lang pag start ng engine and after that, wala nang makikitang usok, as in.. sinubukan ko nga ring itutok ilong ko few inches from tail pipe, d sya masakit sa ilong kumpara dati...
and mas naging responsive at maganda power ng engine at mas tumaas fuel mileage ko after those steps...

kaya i don't believe na sabi ng iba, sakit daw ng pajero ang hardstarting at black smoke...proper engine maintenance lang po...

hope sharing my experience helps...

thanks mga sirs.

Halos pareho tayo ng procedure na ginawa sir! May binubuhay kasi akong owner type jeep (Isuzu Gemini Diesel ang engine nya). Hard starting with black smoke sya pag 1st start mo sya pero pag napaandar mo na sya eh
nde na problema ang stating.. 1st step na ginawa namin is replace glow plugs then the fuel filter and we also checked the battery and alternator kung nag-charge ba sya ng maayos... may improvement naman kaso tyambahan sa pag start average nya is mga 15 redondo bago mag start kaso minsan ayaw pa rin mag start sa umaga....now we are in the last part which is pina-calibrate na namin iyung injector nozzle and injector pump sabi sa calibration eh hindi na maganda ang buga nung nozzle (sabog na daw ang buga nya so we replaced it) sabi rin sa calibration na medyo mahina na daw iyung injection pump so we have to replace it pero pwede pa naman daw kasi bago daw iyung fuel filter..basta wag lang daw matuyuan ng deisel at baka daw magka-hangin (tama ba iyung suggestion nung nasa calibration?)... also sabi nung mechanic namin since na matagal nang naka-stock iyung makina eh i-check na rin daw namin iyung mga piston and piston rings kung ok pa at para malinis na rin ang carbon deposits sa loob (overhaul na).. hopefully by the end of the week matapos na eto.. inform ko kayo kung ano ang naging results..

Sana nakatulong....

P.S.

Sir Dieseldude anu po ba advice nyo sa injector pump problem ko? Better fix the internal parts or have it replaced na? Deperately need your expert advice..

Maraming maraming salamat po ...

**Dieseldude** · February 22nd, 2011 09:27 PM

Halos pareho tayo ng procedure na ginawa sir! May binubuhay kasi akong owner type jeep (Isuzu Gemini Diesel ang engine nya). Hard starting with black smoke sya pag 1st start mo sya pero pag napaandar mo na sya eh
nde na problema ang starting.. Ok ba and power?

1st step na ginawa namin is replace glow plugs then the fuel filter and we also checked the battery and alternator kung nag-charge ba sya ng maayos... may improvement naman kaso tyambahan sa pag start average nya is mga 15 redondo bago mag start kaso minsan ayaw pa rin mag start sa umaga.... Did you use the correct glow plugs? Kung mali, baka napundi agad ito. Baka mababa ang current handling capacity ng glow plug switch or glow relay?

now we are in the last part which is pina-calibrate na namin iyung injector nozzle and injector pump sabi sa calibration eh hindi na maganda ang buga nung nozzle (sabog na daw ang buga nya so we replaced it) sabi rin sa calibration na medyo mahina na daw iyung injection pump so we have to replace it pero pwede pa naman daw kasi bago daw iyung fuel filter..basta wag lang daw matuyuan ng deisel at baka daw magka-hangin (tama ba iyung suggestion nung nasa calibration?)...Hindi ko alam kung paano nila kinalibrate ng pump mo. Meron ba silang calibration data ng pump mo? Ok ang pump kung napa ayon nila ang settings nito sa test specifications. Calibration is simply adjusting a pump and/or injectors to conform to test specs.

also sabi nung mechanic namin since na matagal nang naka-stock iyung makina eh i-check na rin daw namin iyung mga piston and piston rings kung ok pa at para malinis na rin ang carbon deposits sa loob (overhaul na).. hopefully by the end of the week matapos na eto.. inform ko kayo kung ano ang naging results.. Check timing muna!!!!!

Sana nakatulong....

P.S.

Sir Dieseldude anu po ba advice nyo sa injector pump problem ko? Better fix the internal parts or have it replaced na? Deperately need your expert advice.. Tanungin mo yung shop na nag calibrate ng pump mo. Sila ang makaka advise sayo dahil nakita nila ang output ng pump mo, at nai-compare nila ito sa specs.

Maraming maraming salamat po ... You're welcome...

**beetlebmble** · March 6th, 2011 01:03 PM

Sir jake

Concerning a hilux 2.8 3L (99 model), 250000 km on the odometer, fuel consumption a bit to 8-9 km ltr on city driving unlike before which is 11-12km. Hindi naman mausok and pino naman ang takbo. Clutch is not yet replaced since brand new pero not yet slipping. Engine oil is Total fully synthetic for Diesel.

Sir, nozzle replacement is required for this? Also there are no leaks sa injection pump.

**Dieseldude** · March 7th, 2011 08:36 AM

Originally Posted by beetlebmble

Sir jake

Concerning a hilux 2.8 3L (99 model), 250000 km on the odometer, fuel consumption a bit to 8-9 km ltr on city driving unlike before which is 11-12km. Hindi naman mausok and pino naman ang takbo. Clutch is not yet replaced since brand new pero not yet slipping. Engine oil is Total fully synthetic for Diesel.

Sir, nozzle replacement is required for this? Also there are no leaks sa injection pump.

I really know. The only way to really find out is by having the injection pump and injectors checked for conformance to calibration specs. If they do, high FC could be due to engine wear, blocked air filter, timing deviation, etc.

FC is critical due to today's rising fuel cost.

**timo07** · March 7th, 2011 08:55 AM

Originally Posted by Dieseldude

I really know. The only way to really find out is by having the injection pump and injectors checked for conformance to calibration specs. If they do, high FC could be due to engine wear, blocked air filter, timing deviation, etc.

FC is critical due to today's rising fuel cost.

Might be a good idea to service the clutch assembly/transmission system also, not that it affects FC, or would it?

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