Hmm, I don't believe so. To be honest audio's "improvement" throughout the years isn't what you call leaping like in the microprocessor industry. The minimum lineup I'd recommend sa JL Audio will be their 20k-ish xD amplifier lineup using Class D topology that trickled down sa HD-series nila.
For Reo's new quote, that's more preferable and more easily resell-able.
All of them are still reputed. Just know that every industry has its low-mid-high budget ranges. ACA and C3 is on the low while JetCar is mid-high. To be honest, there's a lot of good installers in Banawe. Sayang that Candyshop has relocated na (they're my top recommendation dati) so I'd say if I were to build a budget system today.. I'll probably head for Tim's Ryan Audio (he's the younger brother of the owner but also retails other stuff aside from Ryan Audio; he also installs sa garage) or Vince's Maspro -- both of them in Old Banawe. Sa "New" Banawe, probably I'll head to Auto Intensity. If I'm looking for a medium budget, I'd look elsewhere na or kay JetCar pwede din.
Re: Sony head units
To be honest they're still a rare breed in the Philippines. The launch of their RSX-GS9 is the bomb though; Juno's been raving about it non-stop. As for me, I'm not so keen to join the DSD bandwagon with a 10 minute track occupying 800MB of space. Is there a difference though? Yes there is. I tried a A/B comparison between a 16bit 44khz studio WAV file versus the DSD equivalent in a fully treated room with reference B&Ws floorstanders playing and the DSD sounded more noticeably lifelike. I'm still not willing to pony up the space difference though.
As an idea, I'm still on the 16bit/44khz 320kbps MP3/AAC file camp for 80% of my music needs.; the 20% are 16bit ALAC/FLAC files.
I'm really hoping na meron. Not a fan of using LOC or speaker level signals either.
*boss siento, if indeed may RCA pre-out ang HU ng swift, knowing Jonz's caliber he will measure the voltage signal. If it is not to much to ask I hope you can get this information as well. Thank you in advance!
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*sientobente, Sir, ung seps mo po ba sa Swift is ung Flux FS260 pa rin per your previous post? Am also thinking on what is the best amp for those seps![]()
Yes sir, still the FS260 on the Swift. It is paired right now with the Gladen M95.4. Avoid the Flux amp, ang dami nagsasabi substandard ang quality plus my friend said it sounded dry. I think, warm sounding amps like Audison, Genesis and Celestra will also match Flux Seps from it's entry level up to it's higher priced variants. Meron din ginawa yung installer ko na paired with the Helix G-Four, maganda din ang pairing.
Good afternoon sirs! I'm new to the Car Audio scene and would like to set-up a Honda City 2009. Budget is around 30k but can still be stretched depending if the product is really worth it.. I'm more into Sound Quality than Bass. Please guide me with what parts should I go for..
The best route here is to listen to a properly tuned SQ car so you can set your standards and aim. Expanding your budget range due to it is optional but is what usually happens.
Kidding aside, as a start set aside:
Php 5,000 - Speakers
Php 5,000-8,000 - Amplifier
Php 3,000 - Deadening
The Rest: Labor and Wires
If you'll do it step by step, unahin yun deadening and speakers.
Just remember guys that the best amplifier is an amplifier that does not color the sound and outputs gob loads of power (at least what you need).
Amplifier matching is applicable in Head-Fi where your source is direct and speaker drivers are just centimeters from your earcup. It's also partially applicable in home audio as you can somewhat remove the environment as a variable through well-placed acoustic treatment.
However, amplifier matching is non-applicable in a car setting as there are a ton of variables that will differ each car's sound.
- Vehicle interior acoustics alone colors the sound much more than your amplifier and speakers' mood swings
- There's the noise floor coming from outside
- And the fact that you can't really nitpick the details in the music while driving 60km/h
And if you want to argue, Dan D'Agostino's costs Php4,000,000 per monoblock (so you need roughly Php8M to power two speakers) are rated 20hz-20khz at a strict adhesion of +/- 0.1 decibels. If amplifier matching is so vital, why does one of the best amplifier brands not do it?
Good pm mga boss. Im planning to get my 2005 Jazz an audio upgrade. Can you suggest what can i get with a budget of 15k not including the HU. Thank you for the reply.
I respectfully disagree bro on amp matching. I know though where you are coming from. There are amp builders from DIYMA and PDVD who says the same, but in reality, they never even did an A/B comparison with multiple amps. But we did. We had a lot of those in PDVD. Even Paeng/cyberdraven did one a few years ago. The outcome? One of those local amp maker's amp (who actually says the same), paled in comparison to those "branded" amps. His amp was rated the lowest consistently among many listeners :D
The best way to test this out on a car environment is doing an amp switch on the same vehicle. Engines off, same quiet location. Peter Lee did this on my Rav4 back then. It was a Crunch 50wpc vs Soundstream 130wpc. Spec-wise, Soundstream kicks ass. Has a better SNR, THD, Power and even has the highest Damping Factor I saw in any locally sold amp. So was it a match on the Focal 165VBs I had in the car? No. Soundstream sounded thin and clinical. While Crunch matched the 165VBs better by neutralizing it's brightness and it sounded more balanced while providing a bigger bodied sound. That was actually a costly mistake on my end, coz I already bought the Soundstream amp due to it's specs rather than listening to what my installer had to say.
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