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  1. Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    3,527
    #1
    Quote Originally Posted by mouseketeer View Post
    Good afternoon sirs! I'm new to the Car Audio scene and would like to set-up a Honda City 2009. Budget is around 30k but can still be stretched depending if the product is really worth it.. I'm more into Sound Quality than Bass. Please guide me with what parts should I go for..
    The best route here is to listen to a properly tuned SQ car so you can set your standards and aim. Expanding your budget range due to it is optional but is what usually happens.

    Kidding aside, as a start set aside:
    Php 5,000 - Speakers
    Php 5,000-8,000 - Amplifier
    Php 3,000 - Deadening
    The Rest: Labor and Wires

    If you'll do it step by step, unahin yun deadening and speakers.

  2. Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Posts
    28
    #2
    Quote Originally Posted by jhnkvn View Post
    The best route here is to listen to a properly tuned SQ car so you can set your standards and aim. Expanding your budget range due to it is optional but is what usually happens.

    Kidding aside, as a start set aside:
    Php 5,000 - Speakers
    Php 5,000-8,000 - Amplifier
    Php 3,000 - Deadening
    The Rest: Labor and Wires

    If you'll do it step by step, unahin yun deadening and speakers.
    Sir thank you for the guidelines! Will take this into comsideration!

  3. Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    3,527
    #3
    Just remember guys that the best amplifier is an amplifier that does not color the sound and outputs gob loads of power (at least what you need).

    Amplifier matching is applicable in Head-Fi where your source is direct and speaker drivers are just centimeters from your earcup. It's also partially applicable in home audio as you can somewhat remove the environment as a variable through well-placed acoustic treatment.

    However, amplifier matching is non-applicable in a car setting as there are a ton of variables that will differ each car's sound.
    - Vehicle interior acoustics alone colors the sound much more than your amplifier and speakers' mood swings
    - There's the noise floor coming from outside
    - And the fact that you can't really nitpick the details in the music while driving 60km/h

    And if you want to argue, Dan D'Agostino's costs Php4,000,000 per monoblock (so you need roughly Php8M to power two speakers) are rated 20hz-20khz at a strict adhesion of +/- 0.1 decibels. If amplifier matching is so vital, why does one of the best amplifier brands not do it?

  4. Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    1,138
    #4
    Quote Originally Posted by jhnkvn View Post
    Just remember guys that the best amplifier is an amplifier that does not color the sound and outputs gob loads of power (at least what you need).

    Amplifier matching is applicable in Head-Fi where your source is direct and speaker drivers are just centimeters from your earcup. It's also partially applicable in home audio as you can somewhat remove the environment as a variable through well-placed acoustic treatment.

    However, amplifier matching is non-applicable in a car setting as there are a ton of variables that will differ each car's sound.
    - Vehicle interior acoustics alone colors the sound much more than your amplifier and speakers' mood swings
    - There's the noise floor coming from outside
    - And the fact that you can't really nitpick the details in the music while driving 60km/h

    And if you want to argue, Dan D'Agostino's costs Php4,000,000 per monoblock (so you need roughly Php8M to power two speakers) are rated 20hz-20khz at a strict adhesion of +/- 0.1 decibels. If amplifier matching is so vital, why does one of the best amplifier brands not do it?
    I respectfully disagree bro on amp matching. I know though where you are coming from. There are amp builders from DIYMA and PDVD who says the same, but in reality, they never even did an A/B comparison with multiple amps. But we did. We had a lot of those in PDVD. Even Paeng/cyberdraven did one a few years ago. The outcome? One of those local amp maker's amp (who actually says the same), paled in comparison to those "branded" amps. His amp was rated the lowest consistently among many listeners :D

    The best way to test this out on a car environment is doing an amp switch on the same vehicle. Engines off, same quiet location. Peter Lee did this on my Rav4 back then. It was a Crunch 50wpc vs Soundstream 130wpc. Spec-wise, Soundstream kicks ass. Has a better SNR, THD, Power and even has the highest Damping Factor I saw in any locally sold amp. So was it a match on the Focal 165VBs I had in the car? No. Soundstream sounded thin and clinical. While Crunch matched the 165VBs better by neutralizing it's brightness and it sounded more balanced while providing a bigger bodied sound. That was actually a costly mistake on my end, coz I already bought the Soundstream amp due to it's specs rather than listening to what my installer had to say.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

  5. Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    3,527
    #5
    *Siento

    But the problem there is that it induces another variable to the buyer: What amplifier sounds good? What amplifier sounds bad? When, in fact, the decision is extremely controversial.

    Fact is: Not all amplifiers sound the same
    So I'm not too surprised if the Crunch amplifier may sound better. After all, it might have a better low-end response wherein it boosts certain low end frequencies (Rockford used to do this and their customers loved it). But what if the inherent vehicle acoustics has a boomy low-end where 100hz has a huge peak? Then the Soundstream's "thin and clinical" would give a better balance than using the Crunch that would have exaggerated this peak further.

    It's a very much case-to-case basis and there are a lot more variables affecting the sound. In order, they're probably:
    1. Vehicle Acoustics
    2. Speaker Positioning
    3. Tuning (EQ, Crossovers, Phasing)

    Then there's the fourth criteria: speaker sound signature. After that are minor variables coming from amplifier sound, cable impedance differences, etc. Then again, this is pretty much my opinion on it.

  6. Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    8
    #6
    Need help / advise mga sir planning to add 2x8” infinity ref 250w rms at 4ohms to be connected in parallel (500w rms at 2ohms) connection. Ok kaya ang Sound Magus DK600 or DK1200 both can handle 600w rms at 2ohms.
    Or i will chose from other mono amp. brand like
    JBL GT601- 600W at 2ohms
    Ground Zero Iridium- GZIA-1.100DX – II – 650W at 2ohms
    Helix G One – 675w at 2ohms
    Which one would be best to suite those 2 subwoofer and I am planning for a sealed enclosure.

  7. Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Posts
    53
    #7
    2012 honda city, i want to upgrade my car audio. =)

    I listen to OPM and RNB and love songs and some alternative music. I am on a tight budget so i look for used stuff too for this project. Meron na po ako nahanap sonus 4.100, ibebenta sakin hopefully for 8000 anytime next week. Naka pioneer avhx 5850 ako ngayon sir, bought it for 8000 din. and Blaupunkt underseat subs for 3000. gusto ko palitan yung subs sir parang kulang po sa bass. Naka MB Quart formula seps din po ako pero papalitan ko din kasi basag yata isang midbass speaker. ano po yung ma recomend nyo na seps para sakin? ok ba ang flux sporty? mag nagbbenta din po sakin na used Focal ps165f for 13k.

    Hope you can help me Sir/ Mam =)

    Any addtl input is highly appreciated =)

    ty po
    ps siguro po naisip nyo na ngayon na kuripot po ako hehehe

  8. Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    198
    #8
    Quote Originally Posted by armour View Post
    Need help / advise mga sir planning to add 2x8” infinity ref 250w rms at 4ohms to be connected in parallel (500w rms at 2ohms) connection. Ok kaya ang Sound Magus DK600 or DK1200 both can handle 600w rms at 2ohms.
    Or i will chose from other mono amp. brand like
    JBL GT601- 600W at 2ohms
    Ground Zero Iridium- GZIA-1.100DX – II – 650W at 2ohms
    Helix G One – 675w at 2ohms
    Which one would be best to suite those 2 subwoofer and I am planning for a sealed enclosure.
    Any of those mono amps on your list will do.
    You can always opt for a single sub on a ported enclosure with any amplifier you mentioned.

    Sent from my SM-A800F using Tsikot Forums mobile app

audio set-up for beginners [continued]