Split Type Aircon: Which is best?

[Walter]

The Samsung WindFree air conditioner does function as regular air conditioner with vents ... Windfree mode is just an option you can select at night when sleeping ... it's not like it's always in Windfree mode ... even with large rooms, with some aircons, they still blow wind to create a draft and becomes unpleasant when sleeping ...

[oj88]

The Samsung WindFree air conditioner does function as regular air conditioner with vents ... Windfree mode is just an option you can select at night when sleeping ... it's not like it's always in Windfree mode ... even with large rooms, with some aircons, they still blow wind to create a draft and becomes unpleasant when sleeping ...

You're correct. The thought got lost when I wrote that reply. My mind was heading towards; you probably don't or do need it (ie. the feature) for the reasons I mentioned. So yeah, having it makes sense in your use case.

Though, I'm not sold on Samsung, TBH. If I counted it right, we have 6 Samsung inverter splits and all but 2 have had board problems in the past. And out of all 6, only 3 are still operational. These were all from a generation that used R410A.

[Walter]

Still leaning towards Daikin though ...

[Dr.Kamiya]

I remember seeing a listening / AV room build before that made something like that windfree but using an ordinary inverter split, though in this case it was done more because the homeowner was very particular about having a super quiet room (didn't want to hear the air coming out of the A/C).

The solution was to have an extra space in the ceiling for the A/C indoor units, followed by an immediate 90 degree turn (to slow down the air), before being dropped into the listening room. IR repeaters were used to control the A/C units.

The setup was something like this:

[carxynogen]

I remember seeing a listening / AV room build before that made something like that windfree but using an ordinary inverter split, though in this case it was done more because the homeowner was very particular about having a super quiet room (didn't want to hear the air coming out of the A/C).

The solution was to have an extra space in the ceiling for the A/C indoor units, followed by an immediate 90 degree turn (to slow down the air), before being dropped into the listening room. IR repeaters were used to control the A/C units.

The setup was something like this:

That's a neat setup.
How to access if needed na cleaning or during repairs?

[Dr.Kamiya]

That's a neat setup.
How to access if needed na cleaning or during repairs?

The part directly below the A/C unit has an access door. I can't find the exact pic from the build, but there are similar ones online.

Kinda like these:





You can just barely make out the access panels below where the actual A/C units will be, but the airflow entry to the room is indirect and very elegant looking since it's architected into the design.

A much simpler implementation:

[oj88]

I don't think mini-splits are designed to operate while enclosed like that.

[carxynogen]

Yung last pic yung mahirap linisin.
Also with those setup picture, hindi niya mamaximize yung swing feature ng split.
Parang nakatutok lang sa iisang lugar.

If may leak, mahihirapan technician nito sa pag trace.

I think mas okay yung naka stand na AC compare nito if yung target is kitchen.
Similar to what Slater used in his kitchen area.
Although negative naman is kakain ng space sa floor compare to this setup.

[carxynogen]

Also another negative ng covered setup na yan.
Hindi ba magkaka moist yung grill due to cool air coming from AC vents?
OK lang sana if plastic yung cover grill but if painted wood, it will deteriorate in time if laging nagkakamoist.

[dr. d]

The part directly below the A/C unit has an access door. I can't find the exact pic from the build, but there are similar ones online.

Kinda like these:





You can just barely make out the access panels below where the actual A/C units will be, but the airflow entry to the room is indirect and very elegant looking since it's architected into the design.

A much simpler implementation:

in my opinion,

splits are usually designed, to operate out in the open.
splits make higop ambient air from vents in the housing, pass them thru cooling fins to make them cold, then spew them out to the room.
enclosing them... they just higop the already cold air in the enclosure... the room does not benefit maximally from the cooling, because a significant part of the spewed cold air are only circulated within the enclosure.

but they do result in silent operation, if that is the house owner's objective.

[Dr.Kamiya]

in my opinion,

splits are usually designed, to operate out in the open.
splits make higop ambient air from vents in the housing, pass them thru cooling fins to make them cold, then spew them out to the room.
enclosing them... they just higop the already cold air in the enclosure... the room does not benefit maximally from the cooling, because a significant part of the spewed cold air are only circulated within the enclosure.

but they do result in silent operation, if that is the house owner's objective.

Yup that's why I originally cited a theater/listening room.

There are ways to engineer around the problem like having an exhaust duct at the top of the room that plumbs back into the top of the area housing the indoor split; or simply having a taller enclosure with separate intake duct at the top to better utilize natural convection in the room.

Also another negative ng covered setup na yan.
Hindi ba magkaka moist yung grill due to cool air coming from AC vents?
OK lang sana if plastic yung cover grill but if painted wood, it will deteriorate in time if laging nagkakamoist.

On a well-running A/C this shouldn't be a big problem. A/Cs remove the humidity from the air and it falls down the drain pipe.

[dr. d]

Yup that's why I originally cited a theater/listening room.

There are ways to engineer around the problem like having an exhaust duct at the top of the room that plumbs back into the top of the area housing the indoor split; or simply having a taller enclosure with separate intake duct at the top to better utilize natural convection in the room.



On a well-running A/C this shouldn't be a big problem. A/Cs remove the humidity from the air and it falls down the drain pipe.

about that drain,
someone once said, to make the drain hose/pipe extra large, i.e., larger than factory spec, so as to avoid it from getting clogged in the long run.
just put a mesh at the end, to prevent small animals from crawling into it.

[oj88]

Got a little busy this past weekend.

For months now, one of our outdoor units have been making intermittent screeching noises. It's quite far from the living spaces and wasn't actually bothering anyone so I thought it was something benign and didn't gave it much thought. Besides, the A/C was getting long in the tooth (12+ years) and I thought it was just something ageing machinery does.

But then a few days ago, the indoor unit started to shutdown after a few minutes and throw out an error.... with the Power LED blinking red.

Fearing the worst, I went out to look and discovered that the outdoor fan motor has seized up. My guess is that the system detected that the evaporator coil was overheating and it's what caused it to shutdown. I tried to rotate the fan by hand and it began to turn again, worse noises and all. But at least it was no longer shutting down.


Conceding that the temporary 'fix' wouldn't last, I removed the fan motor and disassembled it down to its rotor. I found that the aft bearing was all mangled up. While the front bearing was still technically ok, I decided to replace both.

Aft bearing:


Front bearing:


Went to a nearby bearing shop and bought a pair of SKF 6202-2RSH bearings:


Now, it runs and sounds brand new.... for its age.


All in, I spent less than P500.

Lesson learned is to not dismiss symptoms and abnormal operations, however benign, that can end up inconveniencing or costing you more later.

[shadow]

Got a little busy this past weekend.

For months now, one of our outdoor units have been making intermittent screeching noises. It's quite far from the living spaces and wasn't actually bothering anyone so I thought it was something benign and didn't gave it much thought. Besides, the A/C was getting long in the tooth (12+ years) and I thought it was just something ageing machinery does.

But then a few days ago, the indoor unit started to shutdown after a few minutes and throw out an error.... with the Power LED blinking red.

Fearing the worst, I went out to look and discovered that the outdoor fan motor has seized up. My guess is that the system detected that the evaporator coil was overheating and it's what caused it to shutdown. I tried to rotate the fan by hand and it began to turn again, worse noises and all. But at least it was no longer shutting down.


Conceding that the temporary 'fix' wouldn't last, I removed the fan motor and disassembled it down to its rotor. I found that the aft bearing was all mangled up. While the front bearing was still technically ok, I decided to replace both.

Aft bearing:


Front bearing:


Went to a nearby bearing shop and bought a pair of SKF 6202-2RSH bearings:


Now, it runs and sounds brand new.... for its age.


All in, I spent less than P500.

Lesson learned is to not dismiss symptoms and abnormal operations, however benign, that can end up inconveniencing or costing you more later.

Hello oj, OT lang how's the performance nun genset mo that you have converted to run with LPG?

Saan mo nga pala nabili yun regulator and ano ulit yun steps paano mo ginawa. Thanks.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[oj88]

Hello oj, OT lang how's the performance nun genset mo that you have converted to run with LPG?

Saan mo nga pala nabili yun regulator and ano ulit yun steps paano mo ginawa. Thanks.

So far, so good. Haven't used it for a great length of time because we don't get many power outages longer than 20 minutes. But I still exercise it for 10-15 minutes every 2 months or so, just making sure it starts in an actual emergency. I alternate between gasoline and LP.

You can use any LP regulator that is used on stoves. What you need is the demand regulator that is one-piece with the carb. Less than 2k lang yung assembly and it's a bolt-on for the most part. You may need to adjust the air/fuel mixture for both gasoline and LP to work with your generator, but that's about it.

[dr. d]

Got a little busy this past weekend.

For months now, one of our outdoor units have been making intermittent screeching noises. It's quite far from the living spaces and wasn't actually bothering anyone so I thought it was something benign and didn't gave it much thought. Besides, the A/C was getting long in the tooth (12+ years) and I thought it was just something ageing machinery does.

But then a few days ago, the indoor unit started to shutdown after a few minutes and throw out an error.... with the Power LED blinking red.

Fearing the worst, I went out to look and discovered that the outdoor fan motor has seized up. My guess is that the system detected that the evaporator coil was overheating and it's what caused it to shutdown. I tried to rotate the fan by hand and it began to turn again, worse noises and all. But at least it was no longer shutting down.


Conceding that the temporary 'fix' wouldn't last, I removed the fan motor and disassembled it down to its rotor. I found that the aft bearing was all mangled up. While the front bearing was still technically ok, I decided to replace both.

Aft bearing:


Front bearing:


Went to a nearby bearing shop and bought a pair of SKF 6202-2RSH bearings:


Now, it runs and sounds brand new.... for its age.


All in, I spent less than P500.

Lesson learned is to not dismiss symptoms and abnormal operations, however benign, that can end up inconveniencing or costing you more later.

... and i thought all along, these were throw-away motors...
TIL.

[oj88]

... and i thought all along, these were throw-away motors...
TIL.

They are very much serviceable as far as the bearings go. The only reason to replace the whole thing is if the stator winding has burned out or the rotor/shaft is damaged or bent.

Brand new is in the 5-7k range, while 2nd hand costs around 2-3k.

[Ry_Tower]

Got a little busy this past weekend.

For months now, one of our outdoor units have been making intermittent screeching noises. It's quite far from the living spaces and wasn't actually bothering anyone so I thought it was something benign and didn't gave it much thought. Besides, the A/C was getting long in the tooth (12+ years) and I thought it was just something ageing machinery does.

But then a few days ago, the indoor unit started to shutdown after a few minutes and throw out an error.... with the Power LED blinking red.

Fearing the worst, I went out to look and discovered that the outdoor fan motor has seized up. My guess is that the system detected that the evaporator coil was overheating and it's what caused it to shutdown. I tried to rotate the fan by hand and it began to turn again, worse noises and all. But at least it was no longer shutting down.


Conceding that the temporary 'fix' wouldn't last, I removed the fan motor and disassembled it down to its rotor. I found that the aft bearing was all mangled up. While the front bearing was still technically ok, I decided to replace both.

Aft bearing:


Front bearing:


Went to a nearby bearing shop and bought a pair of SKF 6202-2RSH bearings:


Now, it runs and sounds brand new.... for its age.


All in, I spent less than P500.

Lesson learned is to not dismiss symptoms and abnormal operations, however benign, that can end up inconveniencing or costing you more later.

SKF are very good bearings. Buti may nakuha ka. Hopefully not counterfeit though.

[oj88]

SKF are very good bearings. Buti may nakuha ka. Hopefully not counterfeit though.

Same thing I heard. The codes checked out naman using the SKF authenticate app.

[Walter]

Is anyone here using Samsung Windfree airconditioner? ... How is it? ...