Thanks guys. I read the DO and it checked out naman. Kinda bummed that cash bonds aren't accepted anymore but at least the final quote for the bond was a lot lower.
First quote was a multiple of the amount indicated in the DO though. Hmmmmm
Anyway am glad that's over and done with.
Hi again masters, inabutan ko yung workers doing the beam with rebars placed at the middle of both sides, pinaalis ko Ang had it placed at the top and bottom as the plan calls for 3 16mm for top and bottom. I just want to know if may silbi ba talaga ung nilagay nila na side bars, I searched the internet and all beams call for top and bottom rebars only. The foreman I got kasi doesn't know how to read plans and if I don't guide them, they will do things the way they were accustomed to
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Yes, in conventional applications, top & bottom beam bars handle the tensile stresses transmitted from vertical loads. Concrete alone can't handle tension. If a beam were designed to resist horizontal flexural or torsional stresses, then you'll need em where your crew initially placed em.
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Sir Travs, I guess it was not a consideration, as the plan calls for just top and bottom bars, with extra bars for some beams. Thank you.
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Question again Sirs, we decided to use drywall as room divisions, are these sturdy enough? Sabi kasi ng foreman, I need to use wood instead of metal for frames para daw di uuga. I was thinking if this is true or di lang sya marunong mag latag Ng metal frame
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Metal is fine. You won't be bothered w/ wood borers. You can budget-insulate w/ fire-rated polystyrene of the stud thickness stuffed between wall panels. Just prep areas where you might wanna hang or attach heavy items. If you need to randomly hang light frames, check for the proper drywall anchors like those in pic for your desired application. You could space your vertical studs 16"oc instead of 24", should you want sturdy, sir.
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Thanks Sir Travs, is 16" already the perfect balance in terms of economy and strength?
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Yeah...drywalls are commonly 48" wide. 16" would give you studs at 3rd of width....way sturdier than half w/c 24"oc gives.
You may keep the horizontals 8' apart(board height) or half that. Sample a panel to get the feel of stability you're ok with.
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Sir Travs, do you have better alternatives in mind? I also saw at Philconstruct, a lightweight board made of mixed polystyrene and cement and another, a polystyrene board with welded wire mesh at both sides for plaster, any comment on these two? Thanks [emoji4]
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Yeah, alternative boards & 3D panels(EVG is the popular brand) have their advantages. The latter is locally licensed by Eastern Wire Mfg, Inc. It's pretty simple & doable. Great if you've shotcrete. It'll be lighter but harder to break than your traditional CHB. Compare costs & manpower load/skill requirements. Discussions on these will be lengthy & boring.[emoji4]
Read up on the system instead? Call will be yours.
EVG – Hersteller fur Schweissanlagen, Drahtrichtmaschinen, Kaltwalzanlagen, Betonstahl-/ Betonfertigteile-Anlagen
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Nice! I'll try to explore this 3D panel, thanks Sir Travs!
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Maganda nga yan Sir Max if one has the equipment, sakin mano mano lang, division lang naman ng rooms sa 2F
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