the best way to get rid of moisture in the headlights is to turn it on so it gets hot, open the back cover then blow DRY compressed air or nitrogen into the headlight assembly. by getting it hot the moisture evaporates, then blowing dry air/nitrogen flushes the moist air out of the headlight housing. pag hindi ma-flush yung moisture e paulit-ulit lang mag- evaporate<>condense yung tubig sa loob. where to get dry compressed air? the compressed air at gasoline stations is relatively dry and should suffice (as against moist compressed air, yung gamit ng mga dentist). gusto mo sigurado dun ka sa tire centers na may nitrogen bayad ka P100 per headlight. mga 20 seconds lang na bugahan yung loob ng headlight ok na yan.
sino sa mazda q.ave kausap mo? hanapin mo si sir dex. pati yung kasama nya (forgot the name) matino naman din kausap. nakaka-5 warranty claims na ako (3 palit turbo with 1 palit intercooler, 2 turbo hose) and kahit minsan di pa ako nahirapan mag-claim. i don't even sign any warranty claim forms, sila na nagaasikaso pinipirmahan ko na lang when i claim my vehicle. the customer is always right but only when he/she asks politely.
*w00ch,
Thanks sa feedback. I'm waiting muna kung ano mangyayari dun sa formal complaint ko sa Berjaya but I am really considering having the unit checked at other Mazda casa.
*yebo,
Appreciate your inputs. I'm not sure if you saw my previous post, but it is actually when I use the headlights that the moisture builds up. But anyway, can you clarify more about how to blow dry the headlights? You mentioned "open the back cover then blow dry compressed air". Did you mean na babaklasin yung headlight assembly? Wouldn't this void the car's warranty?
This is actually why I'm so pissed with Mazda QAve. I mean, dapat sa kanila nanggagaling yung mga ganyang suggestions pero wala e, all they tell me is that this is normal
BTW, Jorel yung name nung nag assit sa akin. Sabi nya he is from Mazda Bulacan.
Yung cover lang sa likod ang i-open mo, yung cover na inaalis pag nagpapalit ng bulb. Iniikot lang yun, ccw to open, cw to close.
Pag ganyan na nagmo-moist pag naka-on ang lamps that means may water sa ilalim at nag-evaporate siya pag uminit na. Then since malamig yung surface ng glass dun na siya mag-condense. Same din ang remedy, turn lamp on, open back cover and blow dry air into the housing to flush the moist air.
Kung maligaw ka sa electronics store, or even wilcon, try looking for a can of compressed dry air. Eto yun gamit ng mga electronics technicians panlinis ng mga electronics boards. AIR ha, hindi CRC. Eto for sure dry air, tanggal ang moisture. Mahal lang.
Not sure if this has happened to anyone already. When i was about to go to my car, i pressed the key fob button to unlock but was not working. So, i thought the battery of my key fob is dead. I unlocked it via the key and tried to start it by placing the backside of the key fob near the push start. Nothing happened. What i noticed is the push start indicator is amber. when i stepped on the brakes, the missing key indicator is appearing and the security / immobilizer lights are blinking. I popped up the hood and noticed a buzzing sound. I have searched the internet but nothing worked. I already replaced the battery of the key fob. Car battery is good as i just had it changed.
Anyone else experienced this before?
Just to eliminate doubts, have you checked using the spare key? If the same thing happens, & all power sources are healthy, transponder isn't likely being read. For modern cars to perform w/o hiccups, the car batt must be in tip top shape. For cars not used daily, a battery tender is their best ally. If it checks out fine, perhaps the dealership can reinitialize or update the smart start system. It's way too early for that module to fail.
Hope you get it sorted.
I still miss having a real key, this hobo dinosaur.
It did eventually work but the electrical seemed messed up. The indicator lights sometimes does not blink when locking and unlocking, the power window in the driver side is not automatically going up. Lastly and surprisingly, it's triggering the car's alarm that i didnt know i had.
I already have a sked for service so i hope they can find the probably
And yes, i miss having a real key. Easier to fix
For CX-5 2.5L AWD owners, how do you find its gas consumption?
Because if I base only at the trip computer, it seems I'm only doing about 4 km per liter in pure city driving.
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For CX-5 2.5L AWD owners, how do you find its gas consumption?
Because if I base only at the trip computer, it seems I'm only doing about 4 km per liter in pure city driving.
Maybe they didn't replace the battery properly. Similar to what happens to a BMW or Benz if battery is not replace following proper procedure.
It's really hard to tell the reference used by the car's trip computer. In my case I see 10.6 L/100km as average when I last went for a long drive (NLEX/SCTEX + some provincial driving). Using some online conversion, that would yield 9.4 km/L only. But if I use the old trick i.e. gas up full tank, set the odo to zero and manually calculate after refilling, I get 13.3 km/L. This is on a 2.0 model.
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It's really hard to tell the reference used by the car's trip computer. In my case I see 10.6 L/100km as average when I last went for a long drive (NLEX/SCTEX + some provincial driving). Using some online conversion, that would yield 9.4 km/L only. But if I use the old trick i.e. gas up full tank, set the odo to zero and manually calculate after refilling, I get 13.3 km/L. This is on a 2.0 model.
Did you reset it before your trip? It really depends on the car, sometimes I get accurate readings, sometimes I don't. But in general, I try to have trips that are over 100 km (or at least 10L) before resetting to improve accuracy both of MID and full tank method.
normally mas maganda reading ng manual computation ko ng FC kaysa sa trip computer.
difference of .5 - 1 km/l
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normally mas maganda reading ng manual computation ko ng FC kaysa sa trip computer.
difference of .5 - 1 km/l
I see... thanks. I guess the CX-5's trip computer is not so accurate.
Today, I did a reset and it registered around 5.5 kms per liter.
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I see... thanks. I guess the CX-5's trip computer is not so accurate.
Today, I did a reset and it registered around 5.5 kms per liter.