2014 Mazda 3

[travajante]

Dual injection is indeed the way to go. Toyota introduced that in their D4-S V6s in early or mid 2000s.
Though carbon deposit is DI's known bane, Mazda has pretty much skirted or pushed back the effects better than others, esp Bimmers. 8years of Skyactiv ownership & I've yet to sense any symptom, twitch or drop. Still, not worried...got access to a bud's walnut equipment & 1.5Sky-specific nozzle milled to fit a BMW tech part ready in the parts bin. Had some practice & test runs tucked, too. It really is the only proper way.[emoji4]Attachment 42095Attachment 42096

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.....attachments aren't working[emoji848]

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[hardwang]

Dual injection is indeed the way to go. Toyota introduced that in their D4-S V6s in early or mid 2000s.
Though carbon deposit is DI's known bane, Mazda has pretty much skirted or pushed back the effects better than others, esp Bimmers. 8years of Skyactiv ownership & I've yet to sense any symptom, twitch or drop. Still, not worried...got access to a bud's walnut equipment & 1.5Sky-specific nozzle milled to fit a BMW tech part ready in the parts bin. Had some practice & test runs tucked, too. It really is the only proper way.[emoji4]Attachment 42095Attachment 42096

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Magkano kaya labor sa pag tanggal ng manifold at walnut blasting... 🤔

[travajante]

Magkano kaya labor sa pag tanggal ng manifold at walnut blasting... [emoji848]

It's DIYable [emoji4]

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[jojopad]

thinking of getting a 2014 Mazda 3. what issues should i consider if i decide to get this model?

thanks

In addition to JohnM's, here are some of the issues I've experienced so far with my Mazda BN 2.0L Skyactiv model with iStop. I still own this car which will turn 5 years this end of year. The BN model was released last 2017 as a facelifted version the BM model (2014) and possibly with some improvements in the engine/suspension, etc.

So far I haven't experienced any major issues yet like broken engine support, belt/tensioner, suspension parts. Perhaps some of those issues that JohnM listed may happen after 5 years (hopefully not yet).

0. The iStop feature with the expensive EFB battery replacement is the most annoying one. This EFB for the Mazda Skyactiv 2.0L model is required for the iStop start/stop engine. Special battery is needed to avoid damaging the start/stop system and eLoop capacitor which can cost around ₱120T at casa. Some 2.0 owners have claimed that using an ordinary Amaron battery will do fine. Personally I would go for the EFB for peace of mind.

1. Brake pedal noise https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvCZ0hssg48

3. There's an occasional thud/clank noise coming from the front/rear suspension area when going through speed bumps and bump roads. There's a previous post on this thread about this, All New 2017 Mazda 3

4. No Android Auto / Apple Carplay support. There's a retrofit update for those who want it. Some shops like Mikstore offer parts and services for doing this upgrade for those who prefer a cheaper option from casa. Personally I don't have a compelling need for this upgrade.

5. Visor can't be extended horizontally. Quite obtrusive when swinging it to the door side. See https://youtu.be/7ZG3r17k9SU?t=2m35s on how the Mazda 3 failed the visor test.

6. Scratch-prone piano black plastic finish at the door panel and transmission lever area.

7. Lack of driver side door panel button lights, difficult to see buttons
8. Engine is quite loud for a petrol type. Probably due to lack of noise insulation from the engine compartment. Sound/Noise proofing kind of inferior when compared with Honda/Ford sedans.

[jojopad]

For the Mazda 2014 BM owners, how's the aircon system components so far? No problems/replacement yet with the aircon compressor, evaporator?

[travajante]

For the Mazda 2014 BM owners, how's the aircon system components so far? No problems/replacement yet with the aircon compressor, evaporator?

None so far & haven't had cleaning yet. I do check & change the cabin filter periodically.
The non-iStop 1.5 BM/BN should be thought of as the gen3's TOTL.[emoji16]
Ownership has been trouble-free & satisfying.

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[JohnM]

For the Mazda 2014 BM owners, how's the aircon system components so far? No problems/replacement yet with the aircon compressor, evaporator?

Crossing fingers but none so far. I've been planning to have it no baklas cleaned for the longest time.

A lot better than the newer SUV that had its evaporator replaced after only 4 years

Pansin ko lang di kaya ng auto fan pag tirik ang araw. Mainit ang windshield kahit tinted. I just manually adjust the fan speed and redirect it to the windshield.

[jojopad]

Crossing fingers but none so far. I've been planning to have it no baklas cleaned for the longest time.

A lot better than the newer SUV that had its evaporator replaced after only 4 years

Pansin ko lang di kaya ng auto fan pag tirik ang araw. Mainit ang windshield kahit tinted. I just manually adjust the fan speed and redirect it to the windshield.

I'm guessing that SUV is a Subaru? My friend told he had a lot of problems with the aircon system of his Subaru Forester, in his 6 year ownership. The aircon compressor needed replacement.

[yapoy86]

Crossing fingers but none so far. I've been planning to have it no baklas cleaned for the longest time.

A lot better than the newer SUV that had its evaporator replaced after only 4 years

Pansin ko lang di kaya ng auto fan pag tirik ang araw. Mainit ang windshield kahit tinted. I just manually adjust the fan speed and redirect it to the windshield.

Set the temp to 18, fan to 3 or 4.. anyway the compressor is not controlled by that AC temp.setting..

The compressor cut off temp is set higher to add a little to its "fuel efficiency" setting the fan to around 3 or 4 will make the compressor run longer.. at 1 or 2 it will cycle on off sooner

[jojopad]

Set the temp to 18, fan to 3 or 4.. anyway the compressor is not controlled by that AC temp.setting..

The compressor cut off temp is set higher to add a little to its "fuel efficiency" setting the fan to around 3 or 4 will make the compressor run longer.. at 1 or 2 it will cycle on off sooner

Keeping the compressor running longer to maintain the desired cabin temp is not recommended. It's going to lead to premature wear and tear in the compressor's bearings and other mechanical parts. Some can still be repaired by a competent aircon specialist but often it may require a brand new or surplus replacement.

That's why I always set the aircon temp at a "Goldilocks" range (usually between 26-27, 24-25 as the lowest setting if needed). It can help prolong the aircon system. The same best practice is applicable to home aircon system.

[bogart.2006]

In addition to JohnM's, here are some of the issues I've experienced so far with my Mazda BN 2.0L Skyactiv model with iStop. I still own this car which will turn 5 years this end of year. The BN model was released last 2017 as a facelifted version the BM model (2014) and possibly with some improvements in the engine/suspension, etc.

So far I haven't experienced any major issues yet like broken engine support, belt/tensioner, suspension parts. Perhaps some of those issues that JohnM listed may happen after 5 years (hopefully not yet).

0. The iStop feature with the expensive EFB battery replacement is the most annoying one. This EFB for the Mazda Skyactiv 2.0L model is required for the iStop start/stop engine. Special battery is needed to avoid damaging the start/stop system and eLoop capacitor which can cost around ₱120T at casa. Some 2.0 owners have claimed that using an ordinary Amaron battery will do fine. Personally I would go for the EFB for peace of mind.

1. Brake pedal noise https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvCZ0hssg48

3. There's an occasional thud/clank noise coming from the front/rear suspension area when going through speed bumps and bump roads. There's a previous post on this thread about this, All New 2017 Mazda 3

4. No Android Auto / Apple Carplay support. There's a retrofit update for those who want it. Some shops like Mikstore offer parts and services for doing this upgrade for those who prefer a cheaper option from casa. Personally I don't have a compelling need for this upgrade.

5. Visor can't be extended horizontally. Quite obtrusive when swinging it to the door side. See https://youtu.be/7ZG3r17k9SU?t=2m35s on how the Mazda 3 failed the visor test.

6. Scratch-prone piano black plastic finish at the door panel and transmission lever area.

7. Lack of driver side door panel button lights, difficult to see buttons
8. Engine is quite loud for a petrol type. Probably due to lack of noise insulation from the engine compartment. Sound/Noise proofing kind of inferior when compared with Honda/Ford sedans.

thank you for the reply... kay JohnM din.

is it true that the 2018 models up, wala ng iStop?

[travajante]

thank you for the reply... kay JohnM din.

is it true that the 2018 models up, wala ng iStop?

The 2018+ CX3(batch2), 1.5 3s & the CX9 came w/o iStop.

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[yapoy86]

Keeping the compressor running longer to maintain the desired cabin temp is not recommended. It's going to lead to premature wear and tear in the compressor's bearings and other mechanical parts. Some can still be repaired by a competent aircon specialist but often it may require a brand new or surplus replacement.

That's why I always set the aircon temp at a "Goldilocks" range (usually between 26-27, 24-25 as the lowest setting if needed). It can help prolong the aircon system. The same best practice is applicable to home aircon system.

Unfortunately, setting your aircon temp to your goldilocks range will not prolong your compressor life.. your setting is for your cabin temp..

The AC system have independent control from your cabin temp..

Try observing your compressor by looking at the engine bay.. setting the cabin temp at 18 or 26 will not matter as the compressor will cycle on/off depending on the temp of the cooling coil..

If you set it say 25, the HVAC will just mix cold and hot air for the supposed 25 deg.. the compressor will continue to run to maintain the cooling coil temp.

For home AC system like inverters, it will help since setting at 25 deg, the system can shift from high speed to low compressor speed early

[jojopad]

Unfortunately, setting your aircon temp to your goldilocks range will not prolong your compressor life.. your setting is for your cabin temp..

The AC system have independent control from your cabin temp..

Try observing your compressor by looking at the engine bay.. setting the cabin temp at 18 or 26 will not matter as the compressor will cycle on/off depending on the temp of the cooling coil..

If you set it say 25, the HVAC will just mix cold and hot air for the supposed 25 deg.. the compressor will continue to run to maintain the cooling coil temp.

For home AC system like inverters, it will help since setting at 25 deg, the system can shift from high speed to low compressor speed early

Unfortunately, setting your aircon temp to your goldilocks range will not prolong your compressor life.. your setting is for your cabin temp..

The AC system have independent control from your cabin temp..

Try observing your compressor by looking at the engine bay.. setting the cabin temp at 18 or 26 will not matter as the compressor will cycle on/off depending on the temp of the cooling coil..

If you set it say 25, the HVAC will just mix cold and hot air for the supposed 25 deg.. the compressor will continue to run to maintain the cooling coil temp.

For home AC system like inverters, it will help since setting at 25 deg, the system can shift from high speed to low compressor speed early

Interesting, that seems contrary to the car aircon specialist's explaination.

If I set the cabin temperature below 24, I can observe that the compressor runs longer compared with a cabin temp setting betweem 25 to 27. So far we had cars with fewer aircon system problem with this goldilocks aircon setting. Folks I know who like to set their aircon cabin temp really low keep on complaining why their aircon system needs servicing.

[jojopad]

What's the safe approach for removing these clear plastic protective covers found at the rear door panel area?

I'm thinking of placing a towel soaked with hot water to help loosen up the plastic and then carefully peel it off.

[travajante]

What's the safe approach for removing these clear plastic protective covers found at the rear door panel area?

I'm thinking of placing a towel soaked with hot water to help loosen up the plastic and then carefully peel it off.

Decals on FACTORY PAINT, I've had very good experience w/ the eraser wheel. Note the 'all caps'. Do not use this on resprays.
https://youtu.be/yAa_mf-Gpbs
https://shopee.ph/product/349531863/...5-1657019539.9
And, don't get the smooth wheel, it'll get too hot for the paint to handle. Do light pressure only.

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[jojopad]

That looks scary to use! I'm thinking of just using goo gone to remove those sticky adhesives

[travajante]

That looks scary to use! I'm thinking of just using goo gone to remove those sticky adhesives

No, it's really not....only on factory paint. Disastrous for resprayed panels. Don't ask how I know.[emoji2957]
Using WD40, GooGone, heat will work but w/ lotsa elbow grease.[emoji4]

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[yapoy86]

Question sirs..

Does the cx-5 and mazda 3 2.0 engine the same? Was looking for some parts like tensioner and they look the same..

[travajante]

Question sirs..

Does the cx-5 and mazda 3 2.0 engine the same? Was looking for some parts like tensioner and they look the same..

Yup, & not just the CX5 but practically all SkyactivGs. New PNs have superseded older ones. I think the latest is PE03-15-980C. Don't settle for cheap replacements.

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