It may not have been MazdaPh's say. Our market is just too small for MazdaJp to justify building special stripped down models for than simply shipping over what they already have for Europe & the 1st world.
iStop & iEloop were to satisfy EU-imposed emissions regulations & to bring down the 'showroom' tax on each sold Mazda. This Dutch guy explains how it works over there.
Be kind to MommaEarth or pay....
We complain when cars over here lack what others have....& we do the same when we get everything they have.[emoji38]
That's why I got 'TOTL' Kodos...the 1.5s...No iStop, No iEloop, No pricey batts. What it lacked, OVT made up w/o any added attention nor care..[emoji4][emoji120]
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This is the reason why Mazda requires a Q85 start/stop batt at the very least...it's to protect the pricey Mazda Battery Management system w/c iEloop, its capacitor & the iStop are part of.We've been reading those who swear by Regular Flooded Amarons filling in well for the factory spec'd EFBs/AGMs....Had I an iStop/iEloop vehicle, I'd never dare challenge the factory engineers & designers....The consequences just may not be worth going penny wise. iEloop capacitor failure will surely make one pound foolish.[emoji17]
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M̶a̶y̶ ̶i̶-̶e̶l̶o̶o̶p̶ ̶n̶a̶ ̶a̶n̶g̶ ̶m̶a̶z̶d̶a̶ ̶3̶ ̶n̶g̶a̶y̶o̶n̶?̶
Edit: nawala sa isip ko na may eloop ung BM/BN 3s
Correct me if I'm wrong but if I remember correctly you're one of the staunch supporters of non-casa supplied batteries, were you not?
Anyway, according to the casa mechanic the Delkor Q85 with 660CCA is more than enough because the casa supplied Q85 Yuasa is only rated 650CCA.
Yuasa isn't the lone brand that carries Q85 EFB out there. Delkor, Energizer, Panasonic, even Amaron got versions that satisfy factory specs....& cheaper, too. AGMs are out there...even better.
In your case, it's unlikely about battery incompatibility. I'm hoping it's more the tech's inability to properly diagnose the issue.[emoji120]
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sir, try cleaning the connections first.. did they checked the capacitor? there are long power lines running on the driver side going to the driver's seat..
there is a possibility of laminates forming in between the connection that returns high resistance reading of the capacitor..
happened to me once.. i was troubleshooting a car with no power... tightened battery terminals to no avail.. then i totally removed the terminals to properly clean using sand paper.. lo and behold, the power was restored!
Puwede po ipa gawa sa suking auto electrical shop gaya nito.
Google Maps Wizard
Baka tip na lang sa gagawa ang charge, since simple lang.
Puwede din pala sa suking battery shop.
actually sir, its easy to do.. you just need to remove the front driver side wheels and wheel well cover to reveal the capacitor and the main electrical wires!.. you also need to remove the driver seat to access the i-eloop module as the main electrical wires also go there..
be sure to remove the battery first! TAKE NOTE that you must DISCONNECT the BATTERY SENSOR FIRST before removing the battery terminal.. and when installing, install the battery terminal first then the battery sensor.. service manual says that the "spark" from generated when connecting the battery may damage the sensor.
i don't know why mazda placed the capacitor in that area as it is possible for the capacitor terminals to get wet..
Try searching for "Mhonworks" on FB. He used to be a Mazda Pasig head mechanic before he set up his own shop. He has the same diagnostics tool that the casa has. I was there this morning having my car serviced and we discussed several issues including the capacitor problems that some 2.0s have.
So 3 years after Yojin3 I finally had my car serviced by a qualified mechanic. I had the oil changed, brakes cleaned, brake fluid flushed, and throttle body cleaned. Overall condition is still good but he did recommend replacing the coolant and ATF on my next visit.