Tire rotation?

[bloowolf]

FYI, ang Clicker type torque wrench cost just almost P2k sa True Value. May instructions naman on how to adjust the torque settings specific for each car.

[jick.cejoco]

Both undertorquing and overtorquing are dangerous. You can download the torque specs if you can't find your owner's manual. For a shop not using a torque wrench is unexcusable. If the personnel refuse to follow your request to use torque wrench, don't patronize them again

[Archerfish]

Both undertorquing and overtorquing are dangerous. You can download the torque specs if you can't find your owner's manual. For a shop not using a torque wrench is unexcusable. If the personnel refuse to follow your request to use torque wrench, don't patronize them again

I don't remember a vulcanizing shop using a torque wrench. In casa, they use torque wrench after tightening it with a pneumatic wrench. I don't see it as effective compared when you just use an ordinary wrench then finally tighten it using a torque wrench.

[yapoy86]

Sa Honda Makati one time ginamit nila pang higpit torque wrench yung mahaba ang handle.

Sinubukan ko alisin yung tire ko using yung free tire wrench ng Honda, di ko kaya, kahit apakan ko, ang higpit. Any suggestion guys paano alisin or dalhin ko na lang sa tire shop?

I bought a ryobi impact wrench (nasa 8-10k) and always bring it with the car.. one morning my brandnew tires was punctured by a stray metal (a brake line lock) and cannot hold air anymore.. luckily i have my impact wrench with me and changed the tires in less than 5 mins..

[Vodka]

FYI, ang Clicker type torque wrench cost just almost P2k sa True Value. May instructions naman on how to adjust the torque settings specific for each car.

a beam type torque wrench costs like P500

[ninjababez]

[emoji106]Looks better than a rusty pipe extender [emoji16]

Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk

Gamit ko bro yun pampalit ng spark plug na parang pipe hehehe
Walang pipe na tingi sa hardware eh LOL

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[dr. d]

i recommend the cross-wrench over the casa-supplied one-sizer. then get a 1 meter length of appropriate-diameter nawasa pipe. they go well together. pintahan nyo yung nawasa pipe kung gusto nyong mas maganda. in our long experience changing tires spanning over 3 decades, the cross-wrench-nawasa-pipe combo will suffice.
breaker bar for removing tight lugs, cross wrench only for tightening.

torque settings? it never bothered us before. steel rims or mags. small minicar or breadloaf van. wag lang tapakan at talunan.
i suppose the size of the wrench dis-allows over-tightening. and the breaker bar easily addresses over-tight lugs by over-eager tire shop hulks..

and oh! always have a pair of work gloves.
and a pair of 2 x 4s, pang-kalso ng gulong.

[oj88]

What comes next is just a personal opinion of mine.

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Tire rotation stemmed from the fact that suspension systems aren't perfect. One way or another, the subtle changes in the suspension geometry over time due to wear and tear and damage can affect how the tire contacts the pavement.... hence, can potentially lead to uneven tread wear. Not to mention that many owners takes a relaxed approach to maintaining the correct tire pressure.

But as of late, it seems that tire rotation is becoming less of a requirement if you drive mostly in MM and/or your vehicle just averages 10-12k km a year (my personal average). Two reasons why:

1. With such low mileage, the tread life will likely outlive the life of the rubber. It is common knowledge that rubber decays over time. So by the time the tread wear even reaches critical depth, the tires would've needed replacement anyway due to structural fatigue or decomposition
2. It seems that modern suspension systems have tighter fitments (bushings, ball joints) and they hold these tolerances quite longer than yesteryear's models. Suspension geometry also seems to be designed better throughout the full motion of the wheel, again, compared to older designs

But as always, there is no replacement for tire maintenance, such as:
1. Maintaining proper inflation
2. Regular inspection for cracks and other structural damage
3. You still have to check for uneven tread wear. But consider it as an indication of an underlying problem (ie. suspension wear/damage, improper inflation, etc.)
4. Having the wheel alignment checked every year or so, or after the vehicle has been subjected to a jarring bump/pothole
5. Having unusual suspension noises and 'clunks' checked immediately

This is a bit unorthodox but, in the last three vehicles that I've owned, I've sold them all with the original tires still on them (all averaging 6-7 years old with 50-60k km on the odo). None of them ever had a tire rotation. Though, at point of sale, I did tell the buyer that the car will probably need new tires soon.

Just to be clear, there is NO harm in having a tires rotated. However, it may be unnecessary if you fall within the parameters I've indicated above.

My 2c worth.

[dr. d]

front tires always wear faster than rear tires.
they have the un-enviable task of steering the car in the right direction.

[oj88]

front tires always wear faster than rear tires.
they have the un-enviable task of steering the car in the right direction.

True. Two of my previous cars (6th and 8th Gen Civics) were FWD. They still had their original tires at point of sale. There were maybe around 30-40% tread left in the front and about 50% in the rear.

That said, even with the usable tread, the tires were approaching their "rot" zone.