Foton Toplander

[Fotonista]

70l yung tank sir di ba sagad? Baka may mali sa computation sir? Unless nung 420kms tuyo na tanke mo...assuming tama computation sobrang lakas nga sa gas. Kahit iassume na may reserve pa na 10l nung nagpagas ka at 420km, 7kmpl pa rin so malakas pa rin.

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Actually Sir di naman 70L yung kinain ng 420KM, 66.58L nung nagpasalin ako. So if I computed it properly (and similar to my Fuel Monitor app). I divided 420KM with 66.58L of diesel so I got a 6.3KM/L answer. Medyo masakit, to think na ang main reason of getting this unit is their Marketing Stint of their "Fuel Economic Engine"... And research over the net shows din na one of Cummins ISF 2.8L strength is the low fuel consumption over power as it was engineered to be efifcient that way.

Mas tipid pa yung Blizzard ko na 4JB1, Jurassic Technology compared to this one pero I am getting 12.5KM/L Citiy driving on its first year hanggang sa tumaas na ang konsumo to 9.5KM/L on its 5th year. Still, mababa pa rin sya vs 6.3KM/L...

[cktlcmd]

Please keep us updated... I am planning on buying the 4x2 toplander this December.

...

[Fotonista]

Please keep us updated... I am planning on buying the 4x2 toplander this December.

...

Will do sir. I have a schedule this coming Saturday with them as my last full tank is already empty. For reference, I drove 420KM using 66.35L (6.33KM/L).

[boytsiks]

Yun nga ang concern ko mga boss eh. I already raised the concern to them, kaso they keep on telling me to observe it, observe it, it will adjust, it will normalize... If only there is a shop that can verify that the specs of the ECU/ECM is correct, then I would probably have a peace of mind and follow their advise of observing.

Pero baka nga tama rin sila similar to what sir "boytsiks" mentioned na after his 5KM saka lang nagkaroon ng decent fuel consumption and nag normalize after 10KM, kaso parang medyo matagal for me to wait for it until maka 10K ako and i-consider na nila as error in my driving or worst sabihin sa akin "dapat nag reklamo po kayo nung bago pa lang yung sasakyan"....

Sir "boytsiks", ano po pala yung SUV nyo?

Used to average 5- 6 km/l on my Montero GLS-V (moderate to Heavy traffic - 10 km travel for 45 mins to 1 hr). Now Around 7.5 to 8 km/l (45k kms). Sometimes, it all depends sa driving habits mo. Medyo mababa pa rin ang FC if you ask me, pero ok na ako na ako considering ang traffic condition sa las pinas - bacoor area.


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[StockEngine]

I'm from Marikina and work at McKinley Hill. I work Graveyard shift so usually I don't experience traffic on my way to work and going home, I sometimes experience it. I understand that traffic consumes a lot, but based on my old pickup which has an old 2.8L 4JB1 engine, my fuel consumption is around 9.5KM/L same driving condition (Been driving it for 5 years). I never was heavy on the pedal, I seldom hit 100KM when the road is clear (Usually its 80KM) and I shift before I hit 2K RPM. This one is really exaggerated, my 70L only lasted me for about 420KM on the trip odometer.

If grave yard shift, dapat at least 8-10kml. Almost same area ako and traffic isnt bad when going to mercury or vivians tapsi.

Mux or new fort or montero would easily do 12kml in your scenario...

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[Fotonista]

Quick updates guys. I was at the casa last Saturday and sad to say, its so hard to talk to someone who doesn't seem to know what the problem is and resort to telling you to just observe your car as they wait for an update from the plant. To make you feel more irritated, they will tell you that its an isolated case and that they never had any complaints similar to what I have. It just sounded that I was making stories or trying to come up with something that is out of the norm despite all the actual findings that I gave them in which they have insisted on getting before so that they'll have an answer to my question.

So after 4 hours of waiting for nothing, I went home with my issues not being addressed. Being frustrated, I resorted to the ever reliable google and researched for two and a half hours. Since I don't have the tools to check my ECU/ECM readings, I ended up doing my own fix plus tons of information that I got from google (the DIY-mechanic kicked in me and hoped for the best)... I hope it will help others who have problems with their fuel consumption on a fairly new car, FOTON or different manufacturer (Again, please take a measurable amount of precaution before doing this, I am not liable in way if something happens to your car). :D :D :D

Here are the steps that I made and will put a comment as to why I did it:
I first removed the negative connector of my battery and leave it disconnected for 30 minutes. I got this idea from an article that says removing the negative from your battery resets the Fuel Trim settings from your ECU/ECM. The STFT (Short Term Fuel Trim) and the LTFT (Long Term Fuel Trim) are set back to zero when this happens. STFT and LTFT readings are basis of the ECU on how much fuel it will feed the injector based on what the MAF data it feeds. It will dictate whether you have a lean or rich air reading then compensate on how much fuel it needs to get your engine to as close as 14.7:1 A/F ratio. During the time that the negative terminal was removed, I pressed on the brake pedal for about 10-15 seconds, I did this to ensure that there are no more electric charge within the lines (I also got this from an article). After the 30-35 minutes of no negative connection, I put back the terminal. Just ensure that you have turned off everything (cabin lights, radio, AC fan, etc.) so that there will be no other load other than the engine the moment you turn it on.

Without stepping on any pedal (clutch, brake, gas) E-brake engaged (for safety) I started the engine and leave it on idle for another 30 seconds. During this time, ensure that all other device are still OFF (AC Fan, Radio, cabin lights, etc) and YOU SHOULD NOT step on the gas pedal. During this time, the ECU/ECM is trying to analyze your environment, the MAF Data, etc. It is on a learning mode and records it to its memory so it is crucial that nothing is being fed to its memory so it will not be included in the relearning process. You might wonder as to why should you let it idle for 30 minutes? Computers nowadays are built smart, in 10 minutes they can learn and record data already? From the article that I've read, different engines have different characteristics, and it will take 10-30 minutes for an engine to reach it's optimum operating temperature. The ECU/ECM has to have data collected from different temperature settings in order to get an optimal result. During those period I had enough time to do a quick spray waxing of the entire SUV. After waxing (about 32 minutes), I turned of the engine. Gave it a good 2 minute rest then drove it normally (as to how I will drive it on a daily basis). No flooring on the pedal, no sudden acceleration, shift gears before I reach 2K RPM. The drive was about 10KM (as instructed on another article), objective is to feed different environment data and driving conditions to the ECU/ECM and manage it based on the initial 30 minute idle data that it had.

I don't know if it just a placebo effect and do take note that I am not patronizing myself, but I notice a significant change in the data that I got during that 10KM drive. Initial change that I got was the IFC reading (Instant Fuel Consumption). Before the reset, I always set my dashboard to IFC so I'll have an idea as to how much fuel the injector is spraying while I am driving. I always get a reading around 13.5-16.5 L/100KM even if I am just stepping on my gas pedal lightly (I don't know if I am explaining it correctly but it is about 2cm pressed), if I let go of the pedal the IFC reading is still showing numbers as if the injector is still spraying diesel to my engine which I think is not normal. But after the reset, the IFC reading is now changing constantly and in-sync as to how heavy or how light my foot is pressing the pedal. The significant change on it is that it now goes down to about 4.5-7 L/100KM which I never saw during the entire 1600KM trip that I had since day 1. To satisfy my probable-placebo effect, I went on a semi-long distance trip to Dasmarinas cavite that night and indeed, there was a huge difference on the way the IFC data is showing especially when I am doing a cruise drive at around 80KMH (when you drive and go over 80KMH, you remove your foot on the pedal to slow down) the IFC goes to zero saying that there are little to no fuel being fed on the engine during that time.

After my trip to Cavite and went back home, I checked the AFC (Average Fuel Consumption) reading on my dashboard and surprisingly, it went down to 12.3 L/100KM. Before, I am always at the 15.5-16 L/100KM reading. I also noticed that from a full tank, I consumed more than 1/4 of my gas tank with only 100KM trip (this was before I left for Cavite), after the Cavite trip I already totaled 259KM and I am still in between the 1/2 and 5/8 line of my fuel gauge (Meaning the 150KM trip consumed only about 3/16 of my tank). I know it still not accurate until I gas up another full tank so I will do an observation and update this thread, but for now I am a bit happy of the initial results and HOPING that it is not a placebo effect. I will keep you guys posted and hopefully, it can help someone who has a similar problem like mine.

[yebo]

Meron na palang "Lemon Law" dito sa atin, thanks for the info sir StockEngine!

sadly the philippine lemon law is also a lemon. the law is heavily in favor of the car manufacturers and dealers.

[StockEngine]

Quick updates guys. I was at the casa last Saturday and sad to say, its so hard to talk to someone who doesn't seem to know what the problem is and resort to telling you to just observe your car as they wait for an update from the plant. To make you feel more irritated, they will tell you that its an isolated case and that they never had any complaints similar to what I have. It just sounded that I was making stories or trying to come up with something that is out of the norm despite all the actual findings that I gave them in which they have insisted on getting before so that they'll have an answer to my question.

So after 4 hours of waiting for nothing, I went home with my issues not being addressed. Being frustrated, I resorted to the ever reliable google and researched for two and a half hours. Since I don't have the tools to check my ECU/ECM readings, I ended up doing my own fix plus tons of information that I got from google (the DIY-mechanic kicked in me and hoped for the best)... I hope it will help others who have problems with their fuel consumption on a fairly new car, FOTON or different manufacturer (Again, please take a measurable amount of precaution before doing this, I am not liable in way if something happens to your car). :D :D :D

Here are the steps that I made and will put a comment as to why I did it:
I first removed the negative connector of my battery and leave it disconnected for 30 minutes. I got this idea from an article that says removing the negative from your battery resets the Fuel Trim settings from your ECU/ECM. The STFT (Short Term Fuel Trim) and the LTFT (Long Term Fuel Trim) are set back to zero when this happens. STFT and LTFT readings are basis of the ECU on how much fuel it will feed the injector based on what the MAF data it feeds. It will dictate whether you have a lean or rich air reading then compensate on how much fuel it needs to get your engine to as close as 14.7:1 A/F ratio. During the time that the negative terminal was removed, I pressed on the brake pedal for about 10-15 seconds, I did this to ensure that there are no more electric charge within the lines (I also got this from an article). After the 30-35 minutes of no negative connection, I put back the terminal. Just ensure that you have turned off everything (cabin lights, radio, AC fan, etc.) so that there will be no other load other than the engine the moment you turn it on.

Without stepping on any pedal (clutch, brake, gas) E-brake engaged (for safety) I started the engine and leave it on idle for another 30 seconds. During this time, ensure that all other device are still OFF (AC Fan, Radio, cabin lights, etc) and YOU SHOULD NOT step on the gas pedal. During this time, the ECU/ECM is trying to analyze your environment, the MAF Data, etc. It is on a learning mode and records it to its memory so it is crucial that nothing is being fed to its memory so it will not be included in the relearning process. You might wonder as to why should you let it idle for 30 minutes? Computers nowadays are built smart, in 10 minutes they can learn and record data already? From the article that I've read, different engines have different characteristics, and it will take 10-30 minutes for an engine to reach it's optimum operating temperature. The ECU/ECM has to have data collected from different temperature settings in order to get an optimal result. During those period I had enough time to do a quick spray waxing of the entire SUV. After waxing (about 32 minutes), I turned of the engine. Gave it a good 2 minute rest then drove it normally (as to how I will drive it on a daily basis). No flooring on the pedal, no sudden acceleration, shift gears before I reach 2K RPM. The drive was about 10KM (as instructed on another article), objective is to feed different environment data and driving conditions to the ECU/ECM and manage it based on the initial 30 minute idle data that it had.

I don't know if it just a placebo effect and do take note that I am not patronizing myself, but I notice a significant change in the data that I got during that 10KM drive. Initial change that I got was the IFC reading (Instant Fuel Consumption). Before the reset, I always set my dashboard to IFC so I'll have an idea as to how much fuel the injector is spraying while I am driving. I always get a reading around 13.5-16.5 L/100KM even if I am just stepping on my gas pedal lightly (I don't know if I am explaining it correctly but it is about 2cm pressed), if I let go of the pedal the IFC reading is still showing numbers as if the injector is still spraying diesel to my engine which I think is not normal. But after the reset, the IFC reading is now changing constantly and in-sync as to how heavy or how light my foot is pressing the pedal. The significant change on it is that it now goes down to about 4.5-7 L/100KM which I never saw during the entire 1600KM trip that I had since day 1. To satisfy my probable-placebo effect, I went on a semi-long distance trip to Dasmarinas cavite that night and indeed, there was a huge difference on the way the IFC data is showing especially when I am doing a cruise drive at around 80KMH (when you drive and go over 80KMH, you remove your foot on the pedal to slow down) the IFC goes to zero saying that there are little to no fuel being fed on the engine during that time.

After my trip to Cavite and went back home, I checked the AFC (Average Fuel Consumption) reading on my dashboard and surprisingly, it went down to 12.3 L/100KM. Before, I am always at the 15.5-16 L/100KM reading. I also noticed that from a full tank, I consumed more than 1/4 of my gas tank with only 100KM trip (this was before I left for Cavite), after the Cavite trip I already totaled 259KM and I am still in between the 1/2 and 5/8 line of my fuel gauge (Meaning the 150KM trip consumed only about 3/16 of my tank). I know it still not accurate until I gas up another full tank so I will do an observation and update this thread, but for now I am a bit happy of the initial results and HOPING that it is not a placebo effect. I will keep you guys posted and hopefully, it can help someone who has a similar problem like mine.

Sounds like the reset helped. Keep us updated. Reading your posts reminds me to always think beyond line...

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tsikot Forums mobile app

[Fotonista]

Sounds like the reset helped. Keep us updated. Reading your posts reminds me to always think beyond line...

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tsikot Forums mobile app

Will do boss StockEngine. btw, I over looked at some of the numbers that I posted... The IFC registers 7-14.5 L/100KM and not 4.5-7 L/100KM. But still, majority is at the single digit reading when I drive which I think is good, and the response of IFC when I release the foot on the pedal (like when I am going down flyovers) goes to zero in real time so I think it really is a good sign.

Also, I drove to the office today and back home, I still get the same IFC (playing from 7-14.5 L/100KM) but the AFC of 12.5 L/100KM the other day went down to 12.3 L/100KM. If I can go down to say 10 L/100KM at the end of my full tank, I am one happy driver. :D

[Fotonista]

Quick update:

Just this morning, I was going on an out of town trip to visit my parents graveyard since I wasn't able to visit them last Nov. 1 (too much traffic and I have work). So before leaving Manila, I made sure that I gas up full tank. Since this will be my first measurement since I made some "diy adjustment" on my ride.

Based on my trip meter, I have traveled 500KM flat (this is a mix of unadjusted and adjusted ECU/ECM). I filled up my tank full with 57.98L, so the Fuel Consumption result are as follows:

Manual Computation = 500KM / 57.98L = 8.6KM/L
Auto Computation (AFC Reading on the Dashboard) = 11.3L/100KM = 8.8KM/L

More or less, the Auto Computation is somewhat near the Manual Computation which is around 8.6 to 8.8KM/L. For me, I am all good with this one as it is pure city driving with about 60% of the time I am caught up in traffic (as I have changed my shifted for the past 2 weeks).

My trip today which is about 85% straight drive to Quezon (Via Antipolo-Tanay-Lucban) and 15% traffic (on our way home started at Tanay), the Auto Reading of AFC is at 9.3L/100KM (10.7KM/L). I feel that the uphill and frequent overtaking took its toll on the FC, I should have sticked with the "Chillax" driving (80KM max instead of hitting 110-120KM if the road permits).

Next test would be the pure full tank of City driving (after the diy adjustment), also I will do a longer long trip (probably a road trip to Vigan) and stick to 80KM max to see if I can get a more decent result. Nonetheless, I am happy with it, I am not going lower than 6KM/L.