Remote bypass oil filtration

[Ry_Tower]

you guys have any information on the filtering efficiency of the bosch filter?

BD28/BD7028/BD7095 is about 12 micron rating while ViC is around 25-30 micron. The best oil filter from Mitsu (OEM part #1230A046) as per dvldoc is about 20 which is probably also what Bosch is at since it is also okay for 10,000kms OCI.

[locoroco777]

BTW, 200 kms more and pwede ko na biyakin yung BD28 on TDT...pansin ko lang...parang ang lakas mag bawas ng langis nung 4m41 when I used the BD28(stronger oil burn with the Bd28) unlike with the OEM mitsu filter and the fake fleetguard...does it have something to do with the efficiency?

[crazy_boy]

locoroco, how many kms na yung bd28 mo?

[zix888]

BTW, 200 kms more and pwede ko na biyakin yung BD28 on TDT...pansin ko lang...parang ang lakas mag bawas ng langis nung 4m41 when I used the BD28(stronger oil burn with the Bd28) unlike with the OEM mitsu filter and the fake fleetguard...does it have something to do with the efficiency?

i am now on 9500kms on my tdt and bd28, but will extend it to 12000kms before oc. will post also how bd28 looks by then. pag okay pa, extend ko yung last bd28 ko to 15000kms. wala naman problema sa pagbabawas ng oil yung bd28 tdt combo ko

[crazy_boy]

i am now on 9500kms on my tdt and bd28, but will extend it to 12000kms before oc. will post also how bd28 looks by then. pag okay pa, extend ko yung last bd28 ko to 15000kms. wala naman problema sa pagbabawas ng oil yung bd28 tdt combo ko

zix, maganda diyan if you can have your oil analyzed. para walang guessing in terms of OCI.

its only 1k+ yata if i remember correctly.

[zix888]

zix, maganda diyan if you can have your oil analyzed. para walang guessing in terms of OCI.

its only 1k+ yata if i remember correctly.

yup yun nga din plano ko. san nga ulit yung nasa may manila area?

[crazy_boy]

yup yun nga din plano ko. san nga ulit yung nasa may manila area?

ang naalala ko post ni miko before is in Libis. the caterpillar distributor there yata. will try to search for it dito sa thread.

[crazy_boy]

zix, ito post ni miko.

Monarc in Libis (sole cummins engine distributor in the Philippines) is conducting Oil analysis (complete elemental/wear/VI/TBN analysis) i called them up and their oil analysis cost 1,024.80 pesos... cheaper than others... their also conducting Virgin oil anaylsis

Address:

150 E. Rodriguez Jr. Ave., Libis,
Quezon City, Metro Manila

Tel: 635-0901

im planning to have my used oil analyzed.. haha..

[zix888]

zix, ito post ni miko.

thanks bro cb


* dvldoc
what are the things(values/data) that we need to know on oil analysis? so i can tell them what specific test to perform

[locoroco777]

i am now on 9500kms on my tdt and bd28, but will extend it to 12000kms before oc. will post also how bd28 looks by then. pag okay pa, extend ko yung last bd28 ko to 15000kms. wala naman problema sa pagbabawas ng oil yung bd28 tdt combo ko

I've added about a liter more after several thousand kms mga after 3 to 4k kms siguro....I think hindi palang sanay yung nag lagay ng oil...its the first time kasi that I had done service outside the casa, kakatapos lang warranty ko hehe...

locoroco, how many kms na yung bd28 mo?

mag 10k na....I think di ko na patagalin para makita din natin ang difference with the 12k na gagawin ni zix888...

[crazy_boy]

I've added about a liter more after several thousand kms mga after 3 to 4k kms siguro....I think hindi palang sanay yung nag lagay ng oil...its the first time kasi that I had done service outside the casa, kakatapos lang warranty ko hehe...




mag 10k na....I think di ko na patagalin para makita din natin ang difference with the 12k na gagawin ni zix888...

you'll have your oil tested din ba sir?

[dvldoc]

thanks bro cb


* dvldoc
what are the things(values/data) that we need to know on oil analysis? so i can tell them what specific test to perform

The most important things are the wear metals, Aluminum, iron, copper, Then you look at the anti friction additives Zinc and Phosphorus, moly and boron. Then your Calcium which is the main detergent. The silicon is very important as well it will tell you how your air filter is performing.

A TBN of 2.0 is as low as you want it, the oil still has some life left in it but I would change it at that point. I like a oil with a starting TBN of no less than 10.

Aluminum - Aluminum is most commonly from wear (scuffing) on piston skirts as they repeatedly travel along the length of a cylinder. Other sources often include aluminum engine blocks, certain types of bearings, and heat exchangers (oil coolers).

Chromium - The source of chromium wear metals are almost always exclusively from piston rings which are used to form a tight seal between the moving piston and stationary cylinder wall.

Iron - This is the only wear metal that accurately and linearly increases with the length of time the sample has been in service. It has many sources inside of an engine, most commonly coming from cylinder liners, camshaft lobes, crankshaft journals, and oil pumps.

Copper – Copper is widely used due to its high ductility and thermal conductivity. It is mainly utilized in bushings and bearings such as: crankshaft journal bearings, connecting rod bearings, camshaft bushings, piston wrist pin bushings, thrust washers, and even heat exchangers (oil coolers).

Lead – Lead is a soft, sacrificial wear metal used on surfaces such as bearings. Lead based Babbitt alloys. Commonly found in main crankshaft journal bearings and contaminated fuels. Other sources include leaded fuels and gasoline octane improver.

Tin – Commonly alloyed with Copper and Lead, it is typically found in crankshaft journal, connecting rod, and camshaft bearings, along with heat exchanger cores and thrust washers.

Molybdenum – This is most commonly used as an anti-wear/anti-scuff additive and has an effect commonly called “Moly plating” where over time, a thin and microscopic layer of Molybdenum tends to form between contact surfaces, thereby creating a lower coefficient of friction between the two parts.

Nickel – Though not very widely used anymore, Nickel can be found in certain alloys of steel for internal engine parts, and also is used as a coating on bearings.
Manganese – Manganese is sometimes used in certain steel alloys and has virtually no other uses in these applications.

Silver – Due to its exceptional thermal conductivity, it is sometimes used as a coating for bearings providing minimal friction. However, it is susceptible to attack from Zinc-based additives and is not commonly used in the U.S. for equipment.

Titanium – Titanium is a newer, more environmentally friendly anti-wear additive being implemented due to more stringent emissions regulations, and is phasing out older, harmful phosphorous compounds such as ZDDP (Zinc dialkyldithiophosphate). ZDDP reduces the effectiveness of the catalysts in catalytic converters by creating a plating effect when combusted, and covering the catalyst. Titanium chemically binds to wear surfaces creating a hard, Titanium based oxide layer which reduces friction, thereby reducing wear. Concentration levels vary greatly depending on oil brand. Oil brands currently high in Titanium concentrations include Castrol Edge with Titanium.

Potassium - Most commonly found if there is a coolant mixing with, and contaminating the engine oil.

Boron – Used as a corrosion inhibitor, anti-wear and anti-oxidant additive. Concentration levels vary greatly depending on oil brand.

Silicon – A very common contaminant most typically found in a very abrasive solid form, which causes increased metal wear numbers (especially Iron) in oil analysis samples. However, in my case it is harmless and leaching from a silicone sealant which I used to seal a leaking valve cover gasket, though the most common source is from insufficient air filtration. Silicon concentrations in such cases as this will typically drop after each subsequent oil change.

Sodium – This is most commonly used as a corrosion inhibitor additive, and occasionally can indicate a coolant leak into the oil. Concentration levels vary greatly depending on oil brand.

Calcium – Used as a detergent and dispersant additive to maintain suspension of particulate matter, along with maintaining a reserve alkalinity. Concentration levels vary greatly depending on oil brand.

Magnesium – Also used as a detergent and dispersant additive to maintain suspension of particulate matter, and occasionally used in certain alloys of steel. Concentration levels vary greatly depending on oil brand.

Phosphorus – Used as an anti-wear, anti-oxidant, extreme pressure, and corrosion inhibitor additive. Concentration levels vary greatly depending on oil brand.

Zinc – Another anti-wear, anti-oxidant, and corrosion inhibitor additive also commonly found in bearing alloys. Concentration levels vary greatly depending on oil brand.

Barium – A detergent which also acts as another corrosion and rust inhibitor. Concentration levels vary greatly depending on oil brand.

SUS Viscosity * 210°F – The Saybolt Universal Second viscosity (SUS) is a measurement of viscosity that 60 cm3 of oil takes to flow through a calibrated tube at a controlled temperature (210°F in this case). Each weight of oil such as a 30 weight (5w30/10w30/etc) has an acceptable range to fall into to meet that grade. In this case of a used motor oil sample, it should fall between 56 and 63 SUS. It fell at 56.9, which is slightly less viscous than a virgin sample of this identical oil, which began at 58.3 SUS. That means the sample had a 2.4% viscosity loss over its service life due mainly to shearing and slight fuel dilution. Oils such as Castrol Edge 5w30 are on the thinner end of the 30 weight spectrum, and are on the borderline of being a “thick” 20 weight oil straight from the bottle. They don’t take long to fall into that range when they shear.

cSt Viscosity * 100°C – Viscosity at 100°C given in Centistokes. Less commonly used so there isn’t much to discuss here. Sorry folks.

Flashpoint in °F – This is basically the temperature at which the oil sample will start to combust in °F. Lower flashpoints tend to indicate a presence of fuel. The flashpoint of this sample was 410°F while a virgin sample of this identical oil began at 420°F, so the fuel content of this sample is quite low.

Fuel % - This is the amount of raw fuel content in your oil sample given as a percentage of total volume. Fuel dilution is common from cold starts with lots of idling (engine ECUs typically run rich on a cold idle) and short trips. This causes raw fuel to work past the piston rings and into your crankcase, which dilutes your oil and acts as a solvent, partially washing away the critical oil film and increasing wear between parts. This is why used motor oil (especially on older carbureted vehicles) sometimes smells like gasoline.

Antifreeze % - Percentage of antifreeze found in the sample given as a percentage of total volume. Antifreeze will show up in an oil sample and indicate a coolant leak into the oil from such things as cracked engine blocks or cylinders heads, and leaking cylinder head gaskets.

Water % - Percentage of water found in sample given as a percentage of total volume. Moisture is common in short trip vehicles that don't fully get the oil up to operating temperature long enough. It takes 10-15 minutes for the oil to get up to operating temperature, which is enough to start evaporating the moisture in the sample. The same goes for fuel in your sample too. An occasional long highway drive is good for your oil.

Insolubles % – This is the amount of insoluble material in the sample given as a percentage of total volume. The most common insolubles are carbon from the combustion chamber, and dirt that gets sucked in through the engine’s intake system. This is mostly what turns your oil darker the longer it has been in service. High insoluble percentages indicate insufficient air and oil filtration, with the latter being the most common cause.

TBN - The TBN (Total Base Number) is a lubricant’s reserve alkalinity measured in milligrams of potassium hydroxide per gram of oil. Or in more simple terms, the amount of active additives remaining. This number is important because combustion byproducts tend to form acidic compounds and the TBN is the acid-neutralizing capacity of the lubricant. TBN does not decrease linearly with the time it has been in use. Example: it could start out at a TBN of 10, drop to 5 after only 1,000 miles of use, and then stabilize around 3 for a majority of the remaining service life. A TBN of <1.0 is generally considered to indicate near depletion of additives, and is a safe point to change your oil. Once the additives are depleted then the infamous sludge that the crazy Soot from the Castrol commercials has been warning us about can begin to form.

TAN – The TAN (Total Acid Number) is the amount of potassium hydroxide measured in milligrams needed to neutralize the acids in one gram of oil. When plotted on a graph with the TBN, the point at which the two lines cross is the optimal point to change your oil and indicates nearing additive depletion. For cost reasons I didn’t get the TAN test done because the TBN is a more reliable method to determine the active additive remaining.

Getting a baseline on how your oil and filter performs can save you a lot of money in the future.

[zix888]

The most important things are the wear metals, Aluminum, iron, copper, Then you look at the anti friction additives Zinc and Phosphorus, moly and boron. Then your Calcium which is the main detergent. The silicon is very important as well it will tell you how your air filter is performing.

A TBN of 2.0 is as low as you want it, the oil still has some life left in it but I would change it at that point. I like a oil with a starting TBN of no less than 10.




Getting a baseline on how your oil and filter performs can save you a lot of money in the future.

okay sir noted, thanks

[locoroco777]

you'll have your oil tested din ba sir?

Ill probably would...pag nagawi ako ng libis hehe...

[trucker111]

where does purolator stand between baldwin and orig fleetguard?
how do you determine if purolator filter is orig?

[Retz]

^

It should be after fleetguard and baldwin.

[dvldoc]

Purolator, In the Philippines is not the same as the US version, just like Bosch is not the same. It's on par with Bosch, that's when it's not fake which there are plenty of those. The no country of origin and plastic on the bottom are a dead give away on these. I would avoid any like that that do not say Made in the USA or North Carolina. ACE hardware is known for the low quality ones.

I did find this place that does carry them. They also carry Mann+Hummel Filters

All-InclusiveSales, Inc.

Lot3 Good Harvest Complex
C. Raymundo Ave, Bgy. Maybunga
Pasig City 1607, Philippines

Tel: 6281828
allines*allines.com.ph
charlz*allines.com.ph
wilfredc*allines.com.ph




So you might check with them.

[dvldoc]

Let's try this one again.

Got that must be approved by mods message.

You can try All inclusive sales. AIS. They carry Purolator and Mann-Hummel.

All Inclusive Sales

Purolator is about equal with Bosch, when they are the real deal that is. Apparently they make a version for the Asian market, so they are not exactly the same as the US versions. They should have a country of origin on them still.

Purolator has also merged with Mann-Hummel and Bosch. So they probably all come from the same Korean and Malaysian factory.

Copyright © 2012 Purolator Filters NA LLC, a jointed venture of Bosch and MANM-HUMMEL,

[trucker111]

i saw purolator filter in ace hardware. no country of origin indicated on the filter. however, the box container seems legit. didn't read everything on it but there's USA in it. vacuum plastic on end but not the whole filter. around P500 for the 4d56 engine.

is this a real thing or a fake?

[dvldoc]

That one is probably a Malaysian made filter it's defiantly not made in the USA. It should be the L34750 not really a popular filter in the US due to almost nothing uses the M26 thread pattern. No USA made purolator will have plastic at the bottom of it. And it will say USA somewhere on the filter. The only photo I can find of that one shows it has a sticker and not print on the filter so it could be different but doubtful. I would buy one here and cut it open but they are like 1400P each, so kinda a waste of money.

Run and then cut it open to see how it holds up.