Water heater for Showers

[papi smith]

Sir Travs, I'll ask the electrician if he still pull a wire, but the way I saw it, it looks like he can't because I think he used mica tube embedded on the beam up there.

Sir Walter, I hope I noticed this earlier, problem now is the whole wall is already tiled.

[papi smith]

Sir Travs, all of my outlets are universal 3 prong and have ground wires, of all outlets, the electrician had to miss this one

[travajante]

Sir Travs, all of my outlets are universal 3 prong and have ground wires, of all outlets, the electrician had to miss this one

Ohhhh....are you planning to have that lined? Probably partial wall surgery & retililing needed?

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[papi smith]

They are all installed Sir Travs, will tapping a ground wire to the concrete do, or it really needs to be tapped to a rebar?

[papi smith]

Btw, there's another outlet on the wall which has a ground wire, can I tap it there?

[travajante]

They are all installed Sir Travs, will tapping a ground wire to the concrete do, or it really needs to be tapped to a rebar?

A rebar that you know runs all the way to the subfloor is what you'd want, sir.

Btw, there's another outlet on the wall which has a ground wire, can I tap it there?

Check the heater load requirement against that circuit's allowable capacity, sir.

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[12vdc]

Sir 12vdc, would you know how I can fix this? This outlet is for water heater. But there is no ground wire. I bought the stiebel eltron that I saw posted here. Thanks.Attachment 35861

You have to run separate ground wire minimum AWG#10, should be earth bonded. If no existing grounding system there are available copper or GI grounding rod, maybe a 5ft will do depending on your location.

I use aircon plug, the 20A version, or if your heater is rated 3.5KVA you may use the standard Panasonic 16A 3-prong. Make sure to identify/tag the circuit breaker on the panel board. My 3.5KW single-point heaters uses 15A circuit breaker, no problems for 20yrs.

[12vdc]

Btw, there's another outlet on the wall which has a ground wire, can I tap it there?

Yes sure, just check if the ground is good. Using the AC Voltmeter, a typical balanced transmission(in the Metro) should give you 120-0-120V line to ground to neutral. On unbalanced system(Provinces) it should be 0-230-0. You may use an earth tester or Megger but that would require you a good reference ground, the test i provided above should be enough to make sure leakage current would go on that ground path instead of your body. If still unsure, you could double protection using GFCI and AFCI ckt breakers.

[papi smith]

Can I just use a GFCI outlet instead?

[travajante]

Can I just use a GFCI outlet instead?

GFCIs will give some added protection on wet areas like kitchens, baths, garages & outdoor outlets. However, Installing an outlet w/o the 3rd earth wire will NOT provide a ground path for three wire grounded devices. 2wire GFCI app will only provide protection against ground fault.

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[dreamur]

I suggest that the water heater should be grounded. Had that experience before that there was no grounding and I could feel a tingling sensation when the water hit the skin. Mas masakit kapag ung head ng weenie ang tatamaan ng tubig. It might cause sterility in the long run. [emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]

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[12vdc]

Can I just use a GFCI outlet instead?

Yes with good earth grounding. Scrap everything else except the earth grounding. I won't gamble using heater without proper grounding, i've heared enough stories of oldies getting hearth attack because of improperly installed instant heaters.

[papi smith]

Okay, thanks guys!

[travajante]

Sir Travs, all of my outlets are universal 3 prong and have ground wires, of all outlets, the electrician had to miss this one

I know this may be too late a suggestion, but could be an option for future planned projects....Where possible, we usually propose to mount multi-point storage heaters close to baths & kitchens along the exterior(instead of in-bath), element-sheltered walls away from human traffic/public view. Maintenance access will be hassle-free. A favor homeowners always appreciate later.

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[12vdc]

^Multipoint are usually installed like that, inside laundry closet together with the entrance plumbing and sewer.

For old houses without provision for 20A heater wires and HVAC motors, there's no other way than to lay-out or upgrade the wires and breakers, then utilise the existing shower plumbing.

Most single points need to be accessed to regulate temp, unlike multis that usually plumbed for mixing hot/cold water.

[travajante]

^Multipoint are usually installed like that, inside laundry closet together with the entrance plumbing and sewer.

Yup, but it has been a while since we've done centralized heaters, as you may have meant, on residences. Those small capacity storage heaters like the 1 shown is for single bath or in some cases shared by 2 adjacent baths. Where possible, the heater is mounted on the exterior of the served bathrooms. Servicing/swapping the element, thermostat, or the heater itself can be messy....best accessed & done outside.

[dreamur]

The multi-point at home is placed under the sink behind the cabinet I have to remove the drawers to access it.

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[travajante]

The multi-point at home is placed under the sink behind the cabinet I have to remove the drawers to access it.

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Have seen heaters get blown by pressures too high(happens when main pressure regulators die) on non-peak hours in a subdivision w/ reservoirs up the mountaintops(their main pressure head can go 200ish psi unregulated in some areas). Imagine the mess.[emoji856]

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[oj88]

Have seen heaters get blown by pressures too high(happens when main pressure regulators die) on non-peak hours in a subdivision w/ reservoirs up the mountaintops(their main pressure head can go 200ish psi unregulated in some areas). Imagine the mess.[emoji856]

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Indeed!

[sphinxz]

Have seen heaters get blown by pressures too high(happens when main pressure regulators die) on non-peak hours in a subdivision w/ reservoirs up the mountaintops(their main pressure head can go 200ish psi unregulated in some areas). Imagine the mess.[emoji856]

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Reviving this thread. Sir, would you recommend to use the PPR pipes (white) for all the house piping system or the blue ones will do for most and just use the PPR for those which will be used for hot and cold water?

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