Daikin is the nonCVT Toyota of ACs.[emoji4]
Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk
Daikin is the nonCVT Toyota of ACs.[emoji4]
Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk
What does percentage run do? Is this the fan? My LG's remote runs the timer in 1 hour steps also. Is the real time clock timer and the % run in the app? I can't pair my phone to the ac using the LG app, it fails everytime I try.
Sent from my Mi A1 using Tsikot Forums mobile app
On the question of inverter ba or conventional: For me, 1. dependent siguro kung anong temperature tinotolerate ng katawan nyo. 2. gaano ba occupant for the said location, and 3. ano ba ang access/ egress pattern ng said room.
I think it is understood na naman na with the inverter type, ang advantage nya is less ang start-stop ng compressor na syempre yun ang prime contributor sa power consumption. Once na ma-reach nya ang target temperature, the compressor is humming quietly in the background na lang. Pero kung naka-set sa very low temp ang aircon, say 18degrees, mahihirapan i-maintain ni compressor yan without ramping up especially kung nasa mga 32degrees or higher ang ambient temperature.
Same kung maraming occupant, usually i-set natin sa around 20deg average ang temp for everyone's comfort. Kung medyo underpowered si inverter type di nya rin ma-maintain yung low temp na yan lalo na kung naka-low power mode lang siya. And then logically, kung open close ang mga room openings (e.g. door/ windows) fluctuating din ang temperature. In these cases, nag-approximate na rin sya ng parang conventional aircon as the compressor constantly ramps up to maintain the temperature. Setting the temp too low is one of the causes ng madaling pagkasira ng inverter type motherboards.
Given those considerations, advise ko na lang if you're still decided on an inverter type get one na medyo over-specified ng konti for your room and the expected no. of occupants. Kung mag-isa ka lang, it can still maintain an economical curve as well as kung medyo marami nang tao.
As indicated in the manual: at 80%, the power input is decreased by 20% compared to rated power input. Same goes down the line (eg. 60% is less 40% max power). Say, 1HP ang aircon mo, at 80% then 0.8HP na lang siya. Not exact probably since di naman siguro linear ang power curve nito, pero you get the idea. So para kang may 4 na iba-ibang capacity na aircon at pwede mo silang gamitin as needed.Just know how and when to use it. Through constant use malaman mo rin naman how to.
Yung model ng LG ko eh non-Wifi model, so wala siyang app. Everything's through remote lang talaga. You can set it to turn on, let's say at 11:00am. Then it can be set to turn off at 5:30pm. Hindi lang yung ise-set mo to turn off or on like 3 hours from the current time. Mas full featured talaga si LG kahit in terms of the remote pa lang.
For reference, my LG (and Daikin for comparison) remote looks something like this:
![]()
As a user, I can recommend the LG Dual Inverter split type aircons for the very useful features. When researching these various aircon brand and models, siya na rin ang isa sa may most power efficient technology. Given my short term usage though, I still can't vouch for its reliability, so as with Daikin. So caveat emptor.
But isn't this automatic when you set the temperature? It runs at full capacity to achieve the desired temperature, less when it is achieved, and varies to maintain.
Editing this post as I think gearhead and I posted at the same time. Now I get the percentage power thingie [emoji16]
Sent from my Mi A1 using Tsikot Forums mobile app
Good question.
Ganito na lang. At 100% power, the AC might probably need just 30% of that power to maintain a temperature of 24degree. Still may mga overheads ka pa rin dyan so less and efficiency. Kung baga para kang nagpakabit ng 2.5HP A/C na pang-1HP lang naman ang room mo. Sabihin natin AC tech ako at nasukat ko na at 30% lang tumatakbo ang AC ko. So pwede ko siya i-set sa 40~60% power lang and then much more efficient na siya.
On the actual side, pwede mo pa rin naman ma-set malapit sa required capacity. Kung at 60% masyado pa ring malamig... or at 40% matagal lumamig or kulang ang lamig, then mismatch ang setting mo. Disadvantage lang nga to full auto mode eh ikaw ang manghuhula ng proper setting. May chance pa na baka sa underpowered mo siya mai-set in your quest for lower power consumption.
After I posted, nakita ko nga ikaw daw ang last post... so nagduda pa ako kung na-post ba yung comment ko.Editing this post as I think gearhead and I posted at the same time. Now I get the percentage power thingie [emoji16]![]()
Saklap.. may issue aircon namin.. Overheat yung compressor, kasi nilagyan bubong yung garahe andun sa sulok yung pwesto nya.. Walang ventilation, 1st summer na meron bubong yung garahe.. Buti hindi naman sira, pero kailangan irelocate sa taas para dun sa open area..
Ang laki ng kuryente namin, umabot ng 8K+.. Yung normal 3.5K to 4K lang.. Inabot 11K ang quotation para ma-relocate ang compressor.. Magpapa check pa ako sa iba, duda ako sa quotation (kakalinis lang ng aircon last month).. Baka kasi sinamantala napaka init kasi.. Pero good thing hindi ako siningil kahapon sa inspection.. Hehehehe [emoji1308][emoji16] Php 350 din ata yun..
EDIT: nagagamit naman namin pero dating 21 hours, 12 hours na lang baka kasi bumigay pag isagad.. 9pm to 9am lang nakasindi ngayon.. Hindi pwede kapag sobra init, baka dun bumigay yung compressor..
Mag update ako kung happy ending itong issue ko.. [emoji16]![]()
Alam ko sa System reprocess is dismantle existing tubings like copper pipes, power cable from the indoor to the outdoor unit. Then reconnect ulit and lagyan ulit ng freon.
Mukhang need irelocate ang outdoor unit ni missx kasi nagooverheat sa enclosed space.
Mahal nga if 10k! Usually 7k if maginstall new aircon naman.
Missx, baka may bracket na kayo para makatipid. At wag na general cleaning kasi kakaclean lang naman.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Same din ng binanggit ko sa kanila.. May bracket na existing na, kakalinis lang din, tapos yung indoor unit gusto ibaba ng kaunti mga 2-4 inches lang naman para hindi daw dikit sa kisame.. Feeling ko naman walang masyadong maitutulong yun sa sobrang init and poor insulation ng bahay namin sagap pa din nun yung temp ng ceiling.. Parang naghanap lang ng ipapagawa pa para dumami.. Mamaya magpa-second quote kami sa iba naman..
Mahal yan sobra as I see it kasi walang detail ng system reprocess
Tanungin mo
1. may idadagdag ba sila freon?
2. Papalitan ba copper tubes lahat and if mag exceed ba ng 10 feet?
Sa new installation ng unit 500 per feet in excess of 10 feet ang charge sa additional copper tubing so it doesn’t make sense.
Yung dismantling fee sige pagbigyan mo na pero yung old brackets mo gagamitin dapat and need lang bagong screws
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Binanggit nga din nung nag-inspect na walang idadagdag sa tubing kasi itataas lang naman yung puwesto.. Sa freon, magdagdag nga daw.. Kung siguro na explain lang sakin yung details, maiintindihan ko naman ng kaunti siguro kung bakit mahal..
-----------
Thank you pala sa mga additional inputs.. Mag-update din ako kung maging ok na after 1 month kasama na yung kain sa kuryente [emoji846].
Systen reprocess is the fancy term for "aircon flushing" in the automotive aircon scene.
Lalagyan ng panlinis, carbon tetra and like para malinis yung loob na piping then flush out old oil, vacuum, refill.
Sent from my MI MAX 2 using Tsikot Forums mobile app