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  1. Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    79
    #2251
    Re-posting Instrument panel removal and installation procedure as outlined by Boss PK.

    Quote Originally Posted by pajerokid View Post

    1. Remove the Instrument Panel "Hood"
    1.1 There are two screws on the underside of the 'hood', above the foglamp and demister switches. Remove them.
    1.2 There is another screw on top of the hood, covered by a cap. ingat lang sa pag baklas ng cap coz you might scratch your tint (kung tinted yung windshield mo). since sobrang sikip nito, you need a super short and stubby philips screwdriver to remove the screw.
    1.3 remove the hood by pulling it towards the driver's seat/steering wheel. dont pull it all the way coz the switches are still connected.
    1.4 unplug the demister switch from the harness.
    1.5 unplug the hazard switch from the harness.
    1.6 (optional) unplug the foglamp switch. the problem here is the LED for the alarm. you can cut it and rewire upon reinstallation. Me, i just leave it there and just position the hood in such a way that it doesnt interfere with the succeeding steps.
    1.7 remove/displace the hood.

    2. Instrument panel removal.
    2.1 the instrument panel is held in place by three big philips screws. one on top and the one on each lower corner. these screws are pinning the panel's white plastic. unscrew them all and the panel should be free. ingat sa screws falling into the dash!
    2.2 there are jacks connecting the harness to the panel on the right side... two of them, if i recall correctly. remove them. the right side of the panel can now be twisted and tilted.
    2.3 you can now feel your way around and try to undo the plugs i encircled in PB's pics. try unplugging one... if it's blue, you got it! replace with the LED bulb. and reinstall.
    2.4 appreciate your work. reinstall the jacks you removed in 2.2 and fire up the park lights. See and appreciate the effect hehe.
    2.5 replace all four big blue plugs and the lone small blue plug and youre done.
    2.6 be prepared with some standard #74 wedge bulbs as you are bound to kill some during the process. Dont worry, its not your fault nor the cars. But a lot of our bulbs are pretty old and will give in during the process. While youre at it, you might want to replace the two "wheel" bulbs which are on all the time (Yung sa 4WD indicator). Kapa kapa and tancha lang kung sino sila dun sa assembly

    whew!

  2. Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    1,636
    #2252
    onga si sir pb ang pajero master dito. hehe.

    kahapon hindi talaga ako naka internet kasi sira ata ang smart bro. galit na galit ako sa kanila!

    btw, pb,(yun na) ano ba purpose nung pwr sa fieldmaster? may ganun kasi ang paj ng lolo ko. hindi naman namin alam kung ano ang purpose.

  3. Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    832
    #2253
    Quote Originally Posted by promdiboy View Post
    elsonblue, try mo rin mag DIY, masarap makita result ng sariling gawa, very easy lang talaga. kung kaya mo ivolt in mga transformers, voltes V or si voltron. kayang kaya mo to bro.
    hehe sige sige ill try pag naka luwag luwag sa sched ko and pag naka bili ng mga gamit..

  4. Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    2,999
    #2254
    jjcarenthsiast, hindi po ako master, si PK ang nakilala ko na may pinaka extensive knowledge about our rides. walking worshop manual yun.

    yung power mode sa transmission yun, it just revs higher before it upshift minsan dikit na redline. kaya mas piga ang makina, wag mo na gamitin yun, mas lalakas kalang sa diesel.

  5. Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    354
    #2255
    [quote=promdiboy;1044468]ikawngaba, nagpaquote ako last year ng suspension parts, heres what i got, pero mas mura parin ng konti pag sa banawe,


    These are the prices of the following parts you needed for your Pajero 4m40 local version:

    Idler arm - P3700 each for original Mitsu, and P2400 each for replacement "555" Brand Made in Japan.

    Pitman Arm - P4725 for Orig Mitsu, and P1500 for replacement "555" Brand Made in Japan.

    Balljoints:
    Upper - P950 each Replacement "555" brand Japan
    Lower - P1350 each Replacement "555" brand Japan.

    For the OEM Shocks with Sensor (Original Mitsubishi):
    Front and Rear is P8500 each.

    PB maraming salamat, sa El Dorado ba meron din sila nyang Replacement "555" brand? and okey ba yang "555" brand?

    medyo madugo pala pag papalitan lahat..

    mga ka paj, any good shop (QC area) ma irecomend nyo para sa ganitong trabaho (suspension & underchassis) ?
    TIA

  6. Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    1,636
    #2256
    Quote Originally Posted by promdiboy View Post
    jjcarenthsiast, hindi po ako master, si PK ang nakilala ko na may pinaka extensive knowledge about our rides. walking worshop manual yun.

    yung power mode sa transmission yun, it just revs higher before it upshift minsan dikit na redline. kaya mas piga ang makina, wag mo na gamitin yun, mas lalakas kalang sa diesel.
    hahaha ok yun ah, walking manual.

    ah ganun pala ang purpose ng pwr. so mas mabilis ang matatakbo mo pag naka ganun ka? or mabilis lang sa pandinig? hehe

  7. Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    832
    #2257
    Quote Originally Posted by promdiboy View Post
    jjcarenthsiast, hindi po ako master, si PK ang nakilala ko na may pinaka extensive knowledge about our rides. walking worshop manual yun.

    yung power mode sa transmission yun, it just revs higher before it upshift minsan dikit na redline. kaya mas piga ang makina, wag mo na gamitin yun, mas lalakas kalang sa diesel.
    parang over drive ba yun?yung adventure kasi namin meron naman ganun pero gas siya..

  8. Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    2,999
    #2258
    elsonblue, iba yung overdrive, pag naka off ang overdrive hanggang 3rd gear lang siya, dapat naka on parati overdrive para hanggang 4th gear. ginagamit lang yan pag descending from baguio, para mag assist yung engine braking, para dika preno ng preno. pag naka overdrive on ka bibilis pa lalo pag descend mo. kawawa preno.

    ikawngaba, maganda naman daw 555 pero may fake narin na 555 kaya ingat. pero pag ako I would still use oem. pwede na yan sa goodyear servitek para pag tapos diretso na pa alignment.

  9. Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    79
    #2259
    [quote=ikaw_ngaba;1045028]
    Quote Originally Posted by promdiboy View Post
    ikawngaba, nagpaquote ako last year ng suspension parts, heres what i got, pero mas mura parin ng konti pag sa banawe,


    These are the prices of the following parts you needed for your Pajero 4m40 local version:

    Idler arm - P3700 each for original Mitsu, and P2400 each for replacement "555" Brand Made in Japan.

    Pitman Arm - P4725 for Orig Mitsu, and P1500 for replacement "555" Brand Made in Japan.

    Balljoints:
    Upper - P950 each Replacement "555" brand Japan
    Lower - P1350 each Replacement "555" brand Japan.

    For the OEM Shocks with Sensor (Original Mitsubishi):
    Front and Rear is P8500 each.

    PB maraming salamat, sa El Dorado ba meron din sila nyang Replacement "555" brand? and okey ba yang "555" brand?

    medyo madugo pala pag papalitan lahat..

    mga ka paj, any good shop (QC area) ma irecomend nyo para sa ganitong trabaho (suspension & underchassis) ?
    TIA
    Bro - I usually have my ride service at Motorix Banawe. Motorix have mitsubishi parts store at the front and service shop at the back. I can recommend this shop as they fixed most of my problem with my 8yrs old FM.
    They sell both OEM and replacement brand like 555.

  10. Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    1,636
    #2260
    whew! tinuruan na ako ng dad ko na mag drive. pero sa a/t yung pajero ng lolo ko ang test unit. hehe.

Mitsubishi Pajero Fieldmaster (Gen 2.5) [ARCHIVED]