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  1. Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    10,309
    #621
    Quote Originally Posted by boybi View Post
    Support lang kasi ang solar sa meralco. Baka hindi kayanin ng solar ang load pag brownout, either masira yung inverter or mga appliances mo due to low voltage.
    It's for safety ... you don't want electricity to be running back into the grid if there are people working on it nearby ...

  2. Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    10,309
    #622
    With NET metering ... you're solar power line goes thru the company line ... you are not allowed to have option to connect solar power direct to house ... it's a policy ... does not mean you can't do it AFTER you're NET metering is approved and no one comes around to inspect ...

    Solar power -> Grid -> House ... that's what they will approve ...

    5-6 years is the ROI for Philippines ... also you will not "earn" from always having negative bill ... let's say after 12 months you have -50,000 bill ... company will not pay you for that ... all they do is offset it on next bill ... in other countries, excess is deposited to your account ...
    Last edited by Walter; May 14th, 2023 at 03:04 PM.

  3. Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    91
    #623
    Quote Originally Posted by papi smith View Post
    Bakit di magamit pag power outage? When you are using solar, naka off ang Meralco di ba?
    Unlike an off-grid system (w batteries), Grid-tie inverters require utility to function. and like what walter said it has a safety feature called anti-islanding protection. Hindi magpoproduce ng power ang inverter during outages para maprevent backfeeding ng kuryente sa grid which is delikado in case may gumagawang utility workers sa poste.

    With regards sa load sharing, for example you are consuming 2,000W on a sunny day and your inverter can produce 1,500W. 500W lang share ng meralco.

    Btw, may expo tomorrow sa SMX on anything solar. Free admission

    img_20230514_153606.jpg

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  4. Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Posts
    21,433
    #624
    Quote Originally Posted by Walter View Post
    With NET metering ... you're solar power line goes thru the company line ... you are not allowed to have option to connect solar power direct to house ... it's a policy ... does not mean you can't do it AFTER you're NET metering is approved and no one comes around to inspect ...

    Solar power -> Grid -> House ... that's what they will approve ...

    5-6 years is the ROI for Philippines ... also you will not "earn" from always having negative bill ... let's say after 12 months you have -50,000 bill ... company will not pay you for that ... all they do is offset it on next bill ... in other countries, excess is deposited to your account ...
    You can do it but for safety reasons, don’t.
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  5. Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Posts
    6,813
    #625
    Going back to my problem with our sink, I think the reason is because the plywood bed could not handle the heavy load of pots on the sink.

    Now it's also manifesting on our cooktop area, maybe because of heavy soup pots.

    Now thinking of doing a concrete slab pour over the cabinet and plywood bed.Tama ba iniisip ko na fix?

    Or just replace the whole counter, have a concrete foundation poured and then do built-in cabinets? Is there a special mix which will give me higher psi para manipis lang ang poste at surface. Or meron bang specific plywood which can serve as support na ginagamit or pre-cast?

    Any similar experiences? If yes, what was your fix.img_20230612_094137.jpg

  6. Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    54,623
    #626
    Quote Originally Posted by papi smith View Post
    Going back to my problem with our sink, I think the reason is because the plywood bed could not handle the heavy load of pots on the sink.

    Now it's also manifesting on our cooktop area, maybe because of heavy soup pots.

    Now thinking of doing a concrete slab pour over the cabinet and plywood bed.Tama ba iniisip ko na fix?

    Or just replace the whole counter, have a concrete foundation poured and then do built-in cabinets? Is there a special mix which will give me higher psi para manipis lang ang poste at surface. Or meron bang specific plywood which can serve as support na ginagamit or pre-cast?

    Any similar experiences? If yes, what was your fix.img_20230612_094137.jpg
    the way i see it,
    wood is not a good support bed, especially if the place gets wet, or it gets hot.
    over time, it degrades.

    replace it with concrete...?

  7. Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Posts
    6,813
    #627
    Yes Doc, kaso if you check the internet, ganito na most kitchen counters, another problem kaya is masyado manipis ang stone na kinabit? It's 15mm.

  8. Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Posts
    21,433
    #628
    Hindi dapat wood ang ginamit under the sink, yung sa amin parang some type of plastic board, forgot what it's called.

    Sa ibang parts ng counter naman, marine plywood dapat para mas tatagal kahit mabasa. If naka marine plywood ka na and bumigay pa din, it means mag leak ang counter mo and napupunta sa ilalim.
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  9. Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Posts
    6,813
    #629
    Thanks, I'll search for that plastic board, also I think the problem is undermount ang sink ko which rests on the plywood so baka bumigay sa bigat. I'm considering a thicker plywood, a thicker stone and a top mount sink na. I'll visit a stone store tomorrow.

    Edit: PVC board ba? Versaply nakita ko, more of for form works ang recommendation nila, baka iba pa ito sa phenolic.

  10. Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    54,623
    #630
    if i may,
    after you effect your repair,
    you have to do something to prevent the water from seeping under the stone top, into the material underneath, whatever that material may be.
    ... caulk the space...?

  11. Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Posts
    40,599
    #631
    Kung sa dirty kitchen yan, huwag ka na mag Granite, all stainless na lang from counter to back splash then open na lang yun ilalim huwag ka na mag cabinet.


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  12. Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Posts
    21,433
    #632
    Quote Originally Posted by papi smith View Post
    Thanks, I'll search for that plastic board, also I think the problem is undermount ang sink ko which rests on the plywood so baka bumigay sa bigat. I'm considering a thicker plywood, a thicker stone and a top mount sink na. I'll visit a stone store tomorrow.

    Edit: PVC board ba? Versaply nakita ko, more of for form works ang recommendation nila, baka iba pa ito sa phenolic.
    Mas malaki chance magka leak yata ang top mount na sink. And mas naiipon pa ang dumi around the edge ng top mount sink.
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  13. Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Posts
    291
    #633
    I prefer the undermount design, clean look. Kailangan maayos yung mag install.

    Sa condo nung pinagawa ko which was done back in 2014, wala naman problema. 2 yrs ago sa vacation haus, same undermount design.


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  14. Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Posts
    12,396
    #634
    Long stopped using wood-based carcases for wet area sub-counter carcasses. Had enough of water & wood-borer troubles. Though pricier, PVC is prettier & lighter than cement board. Concrete? Durable but will be unsanitary once leaks occur...often unnoticed & undectected.
    Sinks? Undermount comes 2nd only to integral. There shouldn't be a 3rd choice.
    Some other points:
    -The most common water ingress point is the faucet base. From usage(constant neck oscillation), the hard-to-reach lock nut under can loosen. A dab of PU seal on the faucet base & some Loctite on that nut will help lengthen the check interval. Keep a sink faucet wrench handy.
    -Avoid pull-down gooseneck faucets on nonFull-SS kitchens. Residual nozzle water can trickle down the retractable hose.
    -Keep the undersink module clutter-free, not just to avoid inadvertent hits on the P/bottle trap & lines, but also for easier leak inspection.
    -Steer clear of in-cab trash bins & grease traps. Not only would these stress & age the carcase system prematurely, upkeep will be tedious & messy.
    -Seal the carcase-wall joints w/ PU seal prior to counter install.
    -Best to opt for joint-free tops w/ integral backsplashes like stainless. Solid surface 2nd. Granite, quartz & the like? Water will eventually compromise the slab/splashboard seams & joints. Great for looks, luxury & bragging, but aren't the most durable & practical.
    Remember, cabinets will only be as good the the top you opt. Think of it as roof & house.
    Hope these humble learnt 2cents are of help.[emoji120]

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  15. Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    57,760
    #635
    Quote Originally Posted by shadow View Post
    Kung sa dirty kitchen yan, huwag ka na mag Granite, all stainless na lang from counter to back splash then open na lang yun ilalim huwag ka na mag cabinet.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Same sa dirty kitchen namin, no cabinets at open ang ilalim. We just use the cheapest materials (tiles) Sino ba yung nagsabi sa board na ayaw niya ng all stainless kasi mukhang morgue? hahaha! I also don't like it

    Quote Originally Posted by travajante View Post
    -Best to opt for joint-free tops w/ integral backsplashes like stainless. Solid surface 2nd. Granite, quartz & the like? Water will eventually compromise the slab/splashboard seams & joints. Great for looks, luxury & bragging, but aren't the most durable & practical.[emoji120]

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    What's your preference then?

  16. Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    54,623
    #636
    Quote Originally Posted by _Cathy_ View Post
    Same sa dirty kitchen namin, no cabinets at open ang ilalim. We just use the cheapest materials (tiles) Sino ba yung nagsabi sa board na ayaw niya ng all stainless kasi mukhang morgue? hahaha! I also don't like it


    ako.

    sa doity kitchen namin,
    some hollow blocks to make two two flat vertical walls to support a horizontal concrete tabletop surfaced with leftover bathroom tiles.
    nilagyan naman nang few reinforcing bars.

    heh heh.

  17. Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    1,723
    #637
    if you go for granite, it should be one large piece to avoid gaps and the backsplash can be sufficiently sealed.

    There are also large 20mm thick tiles in the market that can be used as countertops, but the corner terminations wont be as nice.

    Stainless Steel dirty kitchens are fine if the owner never uses them hahaha

  18. Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Posts
    12,396
    #638
    Quote Originally Posted by _Cathy_ View Post
    Same sa dirty kitchen namin, no cabinets at open ang ilalim. We just use the cheapest materials (tiles) Sino ba yung nagsabi sa board na ayaw niya ng all stainless kasi mukhang morgue? hahaha! I also don't like it



    What's your preference then?
    You can custom fab stainless top w/ integral sink+backsplash & use other media(wood, HPL, acrylic, glass, etc) for the cab faces. Function & form can go together.

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  19. Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    54,623
    #639
    whatever happened to those porcelain-surfaced (porcelain-enameled) metal sinks of olde?
    the one with a sink at the center, and drainboards on either side.
    that's the style i want.
    Last edited by dr. d; June 12th, 2023 at 06:55 PM.

  20. Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Posts
    12,396
    #640
    Quote Originally Posted by dr. d View Post
    whatever happened to those porcelain-surfaced (porcelain-enameled) metal sinks of olde?
    the one with a sink at the center, and drainboards on either side.
    that's the style i want.
    Kohler has an updated line of undermount enameled cast iron farmhouse sinks. Timeless. Pricey.[emoji4]

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