With NET metering ... you're solar power line goes thru the company line ... you are not allowed to have option to connect solar power direct to house ... it's a policy ... does not mean you can't do it AFTER you're NET metering is approved and no one comes around to inspect ...
Solar power -> Grid -> House ... that's what they will approve ...
5-6 years is the ROI for Philippines ... also you will not "earn" from always having negative bill ... let's say after 12 months you have -50,000 bill ... company will not pay you for that ... all they do is offset it on next bill ... in other countries, excess is deposited to your account ...
Last edited by Walter; May 14th, 2023 at 03:04 PM.
Unlike an off-grid system (w batteries), Grid-tie inverters require utility to function. and like what walter said it has a safety feature called anti-islanding protection. Hindi magpoproduce ng power ang inverter during outages para maprevent backfeeding ng kuryente sa grid which is delikado in case may gumagawang utility workers sa poste.
With regards sa load sharing, for example you are consuming 2,000W on a sunny day and your inverter can produce 1,500W. 500W lang share ng meralco.
Btw, may expo tomorrow sa SMX on anything solar. Free admission
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Going back to my problem with our sink, I think the reason is because the plywood bed could not handle the heavy load of pots on the sink.
Now it's also manifesting on our cooktop area, maybe because of heavy soup pots.
Now thinking of doing a concrete slab pour over the cabinet and plywood bed.Tama ba iniisip ko na fix?
Or just replace the whole counter, have a concrete foundation poured and then do built-in cabinets? Is there a special mix which will give me higher psi para manipis lang ang poste at surface. Or meron bang specific plywood which can serve as support na ginagamit or pre-cast?
Any similar experiences? If yes, what was your fix.![]()
Yes Doc, kaso if you check the internet, ganito na most kitchen counters, another problem kaya is masyado manipis ang stone na kinabit? It's 15mm.
Hindi dapat wood ang ginamit under the sink, yung sa amin parang some type of plastic board, forgot what it's called.
Sa ibang parts ng counter naman, marine plywood dapat para mas tatagal kahit mabasa. If naka marine plywood ka na and bumigay pa din, it means mag leak ang counter mo and napupunta sa ilalim.
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Thanks, I'll search for that plastic board, also I think the problem is undermount ang sink ko which rests on the plywood so baka bumigay sa bigat. I'm considering a thicker plywood, a thicker stone and a top mount sink na. I'll visit a stone store tomorrow.
Edit: PVC board ba? Versaply nakita ko, more of for form works ang recommendation nila, baka iba pa ito sa phenolic.
if i may,
after you effect your repair,
you have to do something to prevent the water from seeping under the stone top, into the material underneath, whatever that material may be.
... caulk the space...?
Kung sa dirty kitchen yan, huwag ka na mag Granite, all stainless na lang from counter to back splash then open na lang yun ilalim huwag ka na mag cabinet.
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I prefer the undermount design, clean look. Kailangan maayos yung mag install.
Sa condo nung pinagawa ko which was done back in 2014, wala naman problema. 2 yrs ago sa vacation haus, same undermount design.
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Long stopped using wood-based carcases for wet area sub-counter carcasses. Had enough of water & wood-borer troubles. Though pricier, PVC is prettier & lighter than cement board. Concrete? Durable but will be unsanitary once leaks occur...often unnoticed & undectected.
Sinks? Undermount comes 2nd only to integral. There shouldn't be a 3rd choice.
Some other points:
-The most common water ingress point is the faucet base. From usage(constant neck oscillation), the hard-to-reach lock nut under can loosen. A dab of PU seal on the faucet base & some Loctite on that nut will help lengthen the check interval. Keep a sink faucet wrench handy.
-Avoid pull-down gooseneck faucets on nonFull-SS kitchens. Residual nozzle water can trickle down the retractable hose.
-Keep the undersink module clutter-free, not just to avoid inadvertent hits on the P/bottle trap & lines, but also for easier leak inspection.
-Steer clear of in-cab trash bins & grease traps. Not only would these stress & age the carcase system prematurely, upkeep will be tedious & messy.
-Seal the carcase-wall joints w/ PU seal prior to counter install.
-Best to opt for joint-free tops w/ integral backsplashes like stainless. Solid surface 2nd. Granite, quartz & the like? Water will eventually compromise the slab/splashboard seams & joints. Great for looks, luxury & bragging, but aren't the most durable & practical.
Remember, cabinets will only be as good the the top you opt. Think of it as roof & house.
Hope these humble learnt 2cents are of help.[emoji120]
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Same sa dirty kitchen namin, no cabinets at open ang ilalim. We just use the cheapest materials (tiles) Sino ba yung nagsabi sa board na ayaw niya ng all stainless kasi mukhang morgue? hahaha! I also don't like it
What's your preference then?
if you go for granite, it should be one large piece to avoid gaps and the backsplash can be sufficiently sealed.
There are also large 20mm thick tiles in the market that can be used as countertops, but the corner terminations wont be as nice.
Stainless Steel dirty kitchens are fine if the owner never uses them hahaha
You can custom fab stainless top w/ integral sink+backsplash & use other media(wood, HPL, acrylic, glass, etc) for the cab faces. Function & form can go together.
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whatever happened to those porcelain-surfaced (porcelain-enameled) metal sinks of olde?
the one with a sink at the center, and drainboards on either side.
that's the style i want.
Last edited by dr. d; June 12th, 2023 at 06:55 PM.
Kohler has an updated line of undermount enameled cast iron farmhouse sinks. Timeless. Pricey.[emoji4]
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