Davao area po ako sir retz and sir s10pao. Yung delo gold ultra is 1255.00 5 liters. Pag hindi bz bukas ipost ko yung pic ngnabili ko na mobil delvac mx.
Davao area po ako sir retz and sir s10pao. Yung delo gold ultra is 1255.00 5 liters. Pag hindi bz bukas ipost ko yung pic ngnabili ko na mobil delvac mx.
Guys I found this oil at my friend's Petron station. FS oil sya for Diesels 5W40. Any inputs? API CJ-4 sya.
He offers a discount on labor kapag sa kanya magpapa-change oil. Avenida near Abad Santos area siya. PM me na lang for exact location hehe.
P504/Liter
Last edited by Chikselog; October 29th, 2012 at 01:19 AM.
Nakita ko lang when I visited. Hehe pero quite pricey nga. FS kasi eh.
My relative had PMS of his Mits Montero Sport, I noticed that they used Mits SN/CF FS motor oil, is this ok for Mits common rail diesel engines. He was also complaining about dark smoke from his tailpipe. It is good that they will inspect the engine right away, but I caution my relative to asked first if he is a certified Mits engine mechanic, (because of the stories about sudden vehicle failure right after PMS). After few exchanges of stares, the mechanic deferred the engine inspection as he is not a Mits engine technician.
I was just curious kung may nakagamit na nung RevX. CJ-4 kasi eh. Hehe. Although pricey.
Brothers, anyone who have used the oil below? Its 0w20. Okay daw for new engines. for some reason am still not convinced. hehehe!
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Maganda sana yung Caltex havoline FS Energy kaso ewan bakit obsolete na. Wala na rin ako nakikita na bagong stocks nito. I use it on the avanza.
Havoline Energy 5w30 - Bob Is The Oil Guy kahit sa BITOG sikat yan kasi very high quality oil.
If hindi na mahanp yan, Shell Helix Ultra na lang IMO or itong bago ng caltex.
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Pasimple rin tong Honda ah. Malamang pag maraming bumili ng 0w20 and stick to it, mas maaga masisira makina nila, therefore sugod sa casa para ipagawa. Tsktsk.
hahaha! and as far as i know hindi idemitsu yung may gawa nung new oil na yun ng honda. although ILSAC rating nya is GF-4 na, not bad. API- SN na din sya.
reading the description of ILSAC rating GF-4, it sounds great on paper, but then again very hard to get convinced due to existing belief. the thinnest i would possibly go on oil is a w30, anything lesser than that my subconscious mind is telling me that engine protection will get compromised, despite how many times i read the product description.
i tried looking for the PDS of the new 0w20 oil, cant find any, if anyone has it, please feel free to post it.
for now i think i'll stick with tried and tested Baldwin Filter + any of the following
RP, DGU, TOP 1 SDO, Mobil 1, Mobil Delvac MX, Mobil 1 TDT.
Fully-synthetic is better than mineral-base engine oil in general.
Also, some parameters to consider aside from what type of synthetics they are (say PAO or Ester) and other than the indicative oil grade written either as 5W-40, 0W-30, SAE 40, 15W-40, 10W-30 in the outside label are the following:
1. True oil weights based on varying kinematic viscosities at different temperature range, where the higher viscosity index is better as the oil's viscosity doesn't change that much at high and low temp range;
2. Additives; and
3. For diesels, most importantly to deal with the oxidation of sulphur in the fuel after combustion, the number of available alkaline ingredients (Total Base Number) for neutralisation.
The indicated oil grade provided in the oil canister can only do so much, the true weight of the oil lies on its kinematic viscosity properties that one can see only from the product specification sheet. Some folks even have their purchased oil analysed using ASTM standards.
While i prefer the ester-types in my motorbikes, and i have used the ester Motul 5W-40 Specific-CRDi oil for my diesels in the past, however, i have shifted to Mobil 1 Delvac Gold 5W-40 for the same diesels due to the fact that it satisfies all the parameters above. But i would also love to test some Amsoil engine oils for diesels and some other brands of ester-base oils.
Good luck in your choices chief.
Cheers!
For local use the number before the W is largely irrelevant. It's the number AFTER the W that's important. 30-weight is fine, 40-weight is okay too - especially if you use the vehicle in heavy effort/high-load circumstances.
20-weight oils are strictly fuel-saving oils - if you're not stressing the engine out I suppose they're fine, but I'd personally err on the side of caution and specify at least a 30-weight oil.
Why do you suppose Mobil 1 0W-40 is so expensive? You're really paying for its jack-of-all-trades multigrade viscosity - it'll flow very quickly around your engine in a freezing cold start and it'll thicken nicely to a tropical-friendly viscosity when it's hot.