Quote Originally Posted by armour07 View Post
*jhnkvn

thanks sir mostly kc ng ginawa ko is DIY lang sir bale yun DSP ang end game ko budget set up lang ang kaya ko sir,
ang problema wala masyado good installer d2 sa amin na may knowlwdge sa DSP.
last time ko kc ginamit is 3 way electronic crossover but parang kulang sa staging/imaging.
need more input only on DSP settings.
nag lagay kc ako capacitor sa tweeter to protect it, do i need it also when i use a dsp?
If then so, just go with the DSP then. It doesn't take a PhD degree to learn how to use its interface and a -1dB is also a -1dB on more expensive DSPs.

For the DSP, the most important part is the output channels. Most DSPs for 2-ways costs 20K while the 3-way costs an additional 10K more. But they need not be expensive, miniDSP has been highly recommended by US car audio forum DIYMA for many years and that just costs like PHP5K-8K tops.

In running a full active 3 way system, I will highly recommend a capacitor on the tweeter as protection. Just remember to set the value appropriately as it acts as a first-degree (or was that second) slope -- aka it acts like a -6db xover slope with the frequency depending on the capacitor value.

Walang right or wrong sa tuning and getting the proper staging and imaging is pretty much the result of hard work. Many people start by doing sharp cutoffs and a low midbass cutoff (ex. 50/63hz on 2nd/4th octave) para nasa front yun imaging but ako nga I'm running with my midbass at a very high 100hz cutoff on 12dB slopes. Kanyang kayang tuning lang talaga yan.