meron din ganito innova ko. dinala ko na 3x sa casa pero hindi nila nakita. i figured it out na it's the passenger side airbag yun nag cause ng rattle. parang hindi firm yun airbag kasi pag inuuga ko yun gumagalaw siya. so i tried na lagyan ng masking tape for 3weeks ayun nawala yun rattle (inalis ko lang after for safety purposes). hindi ko pa nababalik sa casa to have them check again.
actually ang ginawa nila sakin ay nilagyan nila ng mga paddings or insulator un mga side panels sa may harapan, binaklas pa nila dashboard ko at iniwan ko ng 2days pero walang nangyari. natawa pa nga ako kasi pinag bintangan pa nila yun auto-lpg kit ko na yun daw ang nagcause ng rattle hahahaha.
tanong lang po. habang nagpapacarwash napansin ko hindi pantay yung innova. sa back view nakataas yung right side. nasa 7k plang odo anu sa tingin niyo cause nun? ngayon ko lang din siya nahalata.
tsikoteers,
tanong ko lang especially thiose sa mga nagpa-smoked amber ng Headlamps & Tail lights ng unit nila,di ba prone na baka magfade yung HL/TL since bubuksan yung HL/TL to do the process?
ask ko lang po ok lang po ba kahit during break in period eh di masyado nagagamit yung car, almost 1 month na po yung innova ko pero almost 600km palang natatakbo naiiinip na nga ako mag 1000km PMS. my innova is D4D A/T. thanks!
At bakit po sabi skin nung sa toyota dapat mga 95km/hr lang speed ko for break in period, eh may nakita po ako post dito nag 140km/hr break in din, pwede naman pala yung ganun. So do you think I should change my speed to 140km atleast in highways for my break in?
TIA!!!
mga sir ask ko lang, yung latest na toyota innova right now on the market, is this just a facelift version or new gen na to? If it's just a facelift one, may idea po ba when lalabas ang new gen? Thanks!
there are two vents at the rear covered with rubber flaps, this was already explained by a fellow tsikoteer as for cabin pressure when the door is closing.
try to reach by hand outside near the exhaust pipe for the right side vent, it is vertically aligned with the above picture. you will feel a rubber approx 3"x4" iinm. maybe dirt is causing the incomplete sealing of flaps or the rubber itself.
if you google breaking-in engine you will find there's a hard break-in procedure and thats is driving hard.
AFAIK breaking-in is just wear and tear of metal for the proper sealing.
New Engine Break-in ProcedureFor those who still think that running the engine hard during break-in falls into the category of cruel and unusual punishment, there is one more argument for using high power loading for short periods (to avoid excessive heat) during the break-in. The use of low power settings does not expand the piston rings enough, and a film of oil is left on the cylinder walls. The high temperatures in the combustion chamber will oxidize this oil film so that it creates glazing of the cylinder walls. When this happens, the ring break-in process stops, and excessive oil consumption frequently occurs. The bad news is that extensive glazing can only be corrected by removing the cylinders and rehoning the walls. This is expensive, and it is an expense that can be avoided by proper break in procedures.
We must achieve a happy medium where we are pushing on the ring hard enough to wear it in but not hard enough to generate enough heat to cause glazing. Once again, if glazing should occur, the only remedy is to remove the effected cylinder, re-hone it and replace the piston rings and start the whole process over again.
We asked four top motorcycle engine builders what they do to ensure peak power output and optimum engine life. Here is a capsulation of their responses.
"If the wrong type of oil is used initially, or the break-in is too easy, rings and cylinders could (read will) glaze and never seal properly. A fresh cylinder wall needs some medium to high engine loading to get the piston rings to seat properly for good compression but make sure you don't lug or overheat the engine. Use high quality, low viscosity oil (Valvoline 30 weight), no synthetics, too slippery. If synthetics are used during initial break in the rings are sure to glaze over.
Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power
Sir, it is usually the rubber dumper. Casa should replace those if your car is still under warranty.
Rubber dumpers - if you peek at the underside of your car you'll see rounded rubber dumpers in between the car body and the chassis. There are cases that some of these rubbers gets soften and loosen and needs replacement, it is usually the drivers side that needs attention.
Tip kung semento ang nadikit, gamitan nyo ng suka. Idip nyo ang kapirasong tissue paper o bulak sa sukang puti then idampi nyo sa tilamsik para masaturate ang semento. After ilang minutes, bulak na basa ng tubig ay ipahid ng dahan dahan sa tilamsik. Take note very abrasive ang semento. Effective ito kung agapan nyo ang tilamsik at di patagalin ng ilang araw bago tanggalin. Simpleng chemistry lang ito, alkaline(semento) against acid(suka). HTH.
The 2012 Innova is merely another facelift. In fact, it has gone through several since first launched in 2005.
2005-2008
2009-2011
2012-2014 (??)
Since Toyota Casas don't drain the oil for at least four hours or so, there are more oil left inside.
I think its safe to tell them to fill only 6 liters and I'll just fill the .5 or less liter when I get home.
Last edited by number001; July 11th, 2012 at 09:11 PM.
Just to update you guys, i am bringing my innova sa casa mamaya for a backjob on the aircon vent problem and the rattling sound.
Also, i discovered something bad. If i turn off the recirculate air button (i have climate comtrol aircon btw), i noticed that there is no air coming out miski todo na ang fan speed and matulin na ang takbo ng car.i cant remember if this was like this when i got the car or after nung 1km pms. Either way, they have to fix it. Sa toyota pasig ako.