Plug (pasak) then Patch (tapal) on tire?

[dr. d]

the old air-cooled beetle's jack appears to have its good points.
the way it was designed for use, one simply inserts the jack's blade into the chassis jacking point that is so very accessible under the running board, then click-jack the car up.

[dr. d]

Ok, I know negligible naman yung weight & fuel savings if you put a bottle or alligator jack in your vehicle, pero ayaw ko ng sangkatutak na gamit sa sasakyan eh, so when necessity calls, eh ayun, tiis using what you have (kasalanan ko eh).

i once bought a small alligator for the van.
when it came to use.. flat tyre... i eagerly brought it out, thinking it would be an easy job to jack the van up...
... but with the flat tyre lowering the van, masyadong mataas ang jack! i could not put it under the jacking point.
buti na lang, i still had the oem jack...
..."sino bang nalimutang grasahan 'tong scissors jack na ito..."
huff.. puff..
heh heh.

[Vodka]

Oo naman. I hate changing tires. Never mind the exertion involved, ang dumi dumi mo pa pagkatapos.
Bwiset na mga scissors (diamond) jack na OEM for almost all cars and even SUVs.

Ok, I know negligible naman yung weight & fuel savings if you put a bottle or alligator jack in your vehicle, pero ayaw ko ng sangkatutak na gamit sa sasakyan eh, so when necessity calls, eh ayun, tiis using what you have (kasalanan ko eh).

bring a battery impact wrench. makes it easy to get the lug nuts off. also able to crank the scissor jack

[dr. d]

bring a battery impact wrench. makes it easy to get the lug nuts off. also able to crank the scissor jack

lug nuts?
we have the un-dying breaker bar. it's two and a half to three feet long. dati siyang housing ng front end torsion suspension ng air-cooled beetle.

[glenn_duke]

lug nuts?
we have the un-dying breaker bar. it's two and a half to three feet long. dati siyang housing ng front end torsion suspension ng air-cooled beetle.

Theres a better way to deal with flat tires, inflate it back with a portable inflator and drive it to the nearest vulcanising shop and pay for the labor to switch or vulcanise the tire for you.

Invest in a heavy duty 450psi tire inflator , especially if you fun going in long road trips.

[kagalingan]

walangjo k_leos talaga binubusisi mo butas ng gulong.

pumunta ka servitek sa roosevelt from fisher mall mga 500meters or 1km sa left side. 150pesos patch for sedan. Yan na pinakamaayos na vulcanizing at mura magpresyo.

Sa iba 200 eh bangketa squatter ang kakapal ng mukha.

May iba maayos na store kaso feeling casa 300 to 350 singil

[dr. d]

Theres a better way to deal with flat tires, inflate it back with a portable inflator and drive it to the nearest vulcanising shop and pay for the labor to switch or vulcanise the tire for you.

Invest in a heavy duty 450psi tire inflator , especially if you fun going in long road trips.

yes, i do that, too. it's much easier to watch the tyre man do the grunting, than oneself.
but only for as long as the bead hasn't separated yet,
and the hole is not too large.

[dr. d]

walangjo k_leos talaga binubusisi mo butas ng gulong.

pumunta ka servitek sa roosevelt from fisher mall mga 500meters or 1km sa left side. 150pesos patch for sedan. Yan na pinakamaayos na vulcanizing at mura magpresyo.

Sa iba 200 eh bangketa squatter ang kakapal ng mukha.

May iba maayos na store kaso feeling casa 300 to 350 singil

the assumption is,
one can still drive with that tire not getting damaged beyond usefulness.
i do not care if the tyre man looks like carlos bronson, as long as he gets the job done right.

[k_leos]

My concern was due to reading this article specifically the paragraph:

https://www.topgear.com.ph/features/...a1219-20170528

"7. Avoid vulcanizing shops that use the sundot method. The traditional patching inside your tire lining is still the best way to seal a puncture. Some shops today offer a faster approach by inserting a seal with a sharp tool through the puncture from the outside without dismounting the tire from the rim. Though it may seem like a great convenience, it can actually damage the steel belt that keeps your tire's structure intact. I learned this the expensive way when I resorted to this method a few years ago. My tire was pretty new and two days after the job, there was a considerable bulge where the seal was. It was apparent that my tire needed a replacement. Sundot never again!"

I'd like to understand mechanically how the plug can damage the steel belt such that in 2 days, he already had bulge in the seal of his new tire.

This is part of a tire.



Now imagine you push a screw driver into the hole, would the belt and ply simply have clean holes or would the section of the belt and ply be pushed outward such that there is slight separation between the tread and belt/ply? If you have spare tire that you don't need anymore. Can you try pushing screw driver in a hole to see what would happen?

This was my tire with a hole punctured by a screw.



After the technician pulled out the screw, he inserted a screw driver all the way in (making bigger hole so the plug can fit).



Then put the plug.




I'd like to know what kind of pushing can really damage the steel belt as the above article detailed. Want to analyze why it happened to his belt such that after 2 days, meron na bulge. I'd still use the tire for the next 10 years (it's also somewhat new, look at the tread) because I seldom use the cars. Hence I need to know the details of how damage to steel belt can really occur from plugging repair. Salamat.

[kagalingan]

pangit talaga tusok. Dati once natry ko yan curiosity. Yung gulong kasi dahan-dahan nawalan hangin so tolerable gamitin kahit weeks iniinflate ko na lang. Nung naisipan ko paayos eh tinary ko tusok ayun after 2days superflat gulong ko hahaha!!! Mas ok pa hindi ko na pinagalaw.

so puro patch na ako.

[boybi]

I've been using the plug type fix for around 2 decades already. Whether in my SUV, van or sedan. I traverse all types of roads. Concrete, asphalt, gravel, sand, mountains, provincial roads, expressways, etc.

[gearhead000]

As long as I have the option, iwas talaga ako dun sa mga tusok method. Yung GoodYear malapit sa GMA doon dati ako bumibili ng gulong. Oil change doon din. So nung may singaw gulong ko doon na rin sana since maganda nga kasi mga tire equipment nila doon - like yung pantanggal at pangkabit. Kaya lang sundot-pasak nga lang daw meron sila. So no go for me. Ewan ko lang kung nagbago na sila ngayon. Haven't done business with them for a loooooong while already.

So ngayon dalawa ang requirement ko pag magpa-vulcanize. Dapat hindi mano-mano ang pagtanggal (may tire changing machine) saka patch ang gagamitin.

Oo naman. I hate changing tires. Never mind the exertion involved, ang dumi dumi mo pa pagkatapos.
Bwiset na mga scissors (diamond) jack na OEM for almost all cars and even SUVs.

Ok, I know negligible naman yung weight & fuel savings if you put a bottle or alligator jack in your vehicle, pero ayaw ko ng sangkatutak na gamit sa sasakyan eh, so when necessity calls, eh ayun, tiis using what you have (kasalanan ko eh).

Since meron na naman talaga alligator jack na kasama mga kotse, the next best thing na pwede mo dalhin ay tire pump - preferably yung mga digital tire inflators. Pili ka nung medyo heavy duty na kayang mag-inflate from flat. This is as opposed dun sa mga chipipay na pump na pwede lang mga 5 minutes continuous use. Kapag sinagad mo kasi, either mag-overheat or mapudpod kaagad yung mga gears (usually plastic. mura nga kasi) driving the pump. Except naman na talagang sumabog na ang gulong mo o nagkaroon ng tire separation, pwede pa siya ma-inflate enough para makahanap ka ng matinong vulcanizing shop. These pumps have saved me quite a number of times already, whether fully deflated or top up lang kung maliit lang na singaw.

[kagalingan]

^ saan lugar mo at magkano vulcanize na complete equipment ?

[glenn_duke]

My concern was due to reading this article specifically the paragraph:

https://www.topgear.com.ph/features/...a1219-20170528

"7. Avoid vulcanizing shops that use the sundot method. The traditional patching inside your tire lining is still the best way to seal a puncture. Some shops today offer a faster approach by inserting a seal with a sharp tool through the puncture from the outside without dismounting the tire from the rim. Though it may seem like a great convenience, it can actually damage the steel belt that keeps your tire's structure intact. I learned this the expensive way when I resorted to this method a few years ago. My tire was pretty new and two days after the job, there was a considerable bulge where the seal was. It was apparent that my tire needed a replacement. Sundot never again!"

I'd like to understand mechanically how the plug can damage the steel belt such that in 2 days, he already had bulge in the seal of his new tire.

This is part of a tire.



Now imagine you push a screw driver into the hole, would the belt and ply simply have clean holes or would the section of the belt and ply be pushed outward such that there is slight separation between the tread and belt/ply? If you have spare tire that you don't need anymore. Can you try pushing screw driver in a hole to see what would happen?

This was my tire with a hole punctured by a screw.



After the technician pulled out the screw, he inserted a screw driver all the way in (making bigger hole so the plug can fit).



Then put the plug.




I'd like to know what kind of pushing can really damage the steel belt as the above article detailed. Want to analyze why it happened to his belt such that after 2 days, meron na bulge. I'd still use the tire for the next 10 years (it's also somewhat new, look at the tread) because I seldom use the cars. Hence I need to know the details of how damage to steel belt can really occur from plugging repair. Salamat.

Dont believe in every article you read from topgear. The guy doesn't like the plug type but recommend the tire sealant. In the previous article you posted , its recommended a plug with a patch as the best way to treat tire punctures. Obviously the article in topgear is writren by a guy who dont know what he is talking. If he said the plug type damaged his tire in 2 days then theres a larger part of that story he is not telling, to hide his stupidity, maybe.

[k_leos]

As long as I have the option, iwas talaga ako dun sa mga tusok method. Yung GoodYear malapit sa GMA doon dati ako bumibili ng gulong. Oil change doon din. So nung may singaw gulong ko doon na rin sana since maganda nga kasi mga tire equipment nila doon - like yung pantanggal at pangkabit. Kaya lang sundot-pasak nga lang daw meron sila. So no go for me. Ewan ko lang kung nagbago na sila ngayon. Haven't done business with them for a loooooong while already.

So ngayon dalawa ang requirement ko pag magpa-vulcanize. Dapat hindi mano-mano ang pagtanggal (may tire changing machine) saka patch ang gagamitin.

Reflecting on it.

Let's say ok naman ang plug repair generally. But in my case, talagang the technician added oil para ma insert nya plug (I asked him again today). He didn't use any glue.

So I have a situation that is not done anywhere else. Can't the plug come out let's say a few months or years from now (baka ma slip out because of oil)? He used engine oil, can engine oil destroy the rubber plug or eat it away??

If pa change ko ng patch yun spot ay malaki na hole, and the more tendency mag rust inside the belt. So dapat maka hanap ako a shop who can do combination patch/plug. Question is. Is there anyone in metro manila who can do the combination patch/plug thing? Or wala talaga?

If meron lang isa sana may ganyan and meron pa tire changing machine. Pinaka ok na shop ito? Wala kahit isa meron ganyan?

Kung wala ako mahanap. I have to spend 11,000 pesos x 2 or 22k to get 2 new tires and put at rear. But puwede ba new ang tires sa rear and old sa front? Ayoko spent 44k to replace all.

[gearhead000]

^ saan lugar mo at magkano vulcanize na complete equipment ?

Not necessarily naman kailangan na complete. As I've said, ayaw ko lang nung de kalso na pagtanggal ng gulong - malamang gasgas o pingas ang aabutin ng mags. So basta may tire changing machine para protected ang mags. Then mas preferred ko nga ang patch kaysa pasak. Sa experience ko kung pasak lang ang available itinatanong naman muna sa kostumer kung okay lang na pasak ang gagawin. Mas marami talaga siguro ang mas preferred ang patch kaya yun ang hinahanap sa kanila. Personally, I've had much better experience with patches than plugs.

Reflecting on it.

Let's say ok naman ang plug repair generally. But in my case, talagang the technician added oil para ma insert nya plug (I asked him again today). He didn't use any glue.

So I have a situation that is not done anywhere else. Can't the plug come out let's say a few months or years from now (baka ma slip out because of oil)? He used engine oil, can engine oil destroy the rubber plug or eat it away??

If pa change ko ng patch yun spot ay malaki na hole, and the more tendency mag rust inside the belt. So dapat maka hanap ako a shop who can do combination patch/plug. Question is. Is there anyone in metro manila who can do the combination patch/plug thing? Or wala talaga?

If meron lang isa sana may ganyan and meron pa tire changing machine. Pinaka ok na shop ito? Wala kahit isa meron ganyan?

Kung wala ako mahanap. I have to spend 11,000 pesos x 2 or 22k to get 2 new tires and put at rear. But puwede ba new ang tires sa rear and old sa front? Ayoko spent 44k to replace all.

Worrisome lang din talaga yung ginawa sa gulong mo na nilagyan ng oil instead na glue. Or kahit na nilagyan ng glue pero nilagyan ng oil di ba counterproductive yun? Maybe just have it patched na lang din if you can still pinpoint the location nung pasak. Kasi kung tatanggalin pa yun lalaki na masyado ang butas. The patch over the plug is just added protection para di sumingaw dun sa existing plugged hole. This could be the cause na magkabukol later sa tapat na yun, but I think this will take a while to happen. You will have extended your tire change to maybe six months to a year. Just remember that you can't safely use these tires for high speed long distance travel.

[StockEngine]

Idiot used oil? LoL wtf


Have the patch installed. Don't worry too much about it. Analysis paralysis.

[Miles_on]

I've had a variety of tires repaired by various methods over the years, none have suffered any catastrophic failure naman. Pag palpak lang ang gawa, it'll be flat again in a few days- It wasn't a new puncture bec. the car was sitting in the garage all the time & it was the same tire. Napunitan ako ng tire sa NLEX once but that was a diff. issue/story (faulty bearings)

Never din ako nakaranas ng corrosion of steel belt (as I said, by the time that prob. happens, thousands of km na rin dumaan or more than 6 yrs from manufacture date kaya palitan na rin)

Anyways, tama naman we have to put great concern/care sa tires natin, not just for fuel economy & ride but for safety reasons (ours & other motorists). Remember though that they're built by the engineers who made them to be tough enough to handle the stresses they were designed for (including vulcanizing & repairs bec NO road in the world is perfect).

Palagay ko, if di ka nga makatulog, ipaulit mo na lang yung vulcanizing the way you want or just buy (at least) a pair of new tires as you said.


By the way, that must be one huge set of tires (monster truck?) to cost that much for each

[k_leos]

I've had a variety of tires repaired by various methods over the years, none have suffered any catastrophic failure naman. Pag palpak lang ang gawa, it'll be flat again in a few days- It wasn't a new puncture bec. the car was sitting in the garage all the time & it was the same tire. Napunitan ako ng tire sa NLEX once but that was a diff. issue/story (faulty bearings)

Never din ako nakaranas ng corrosion of steel belt (as I said, by the time that prob. happens, thousands of km na rin dumaan or more than 6 yrs from manufacture date kaya palitan na rin)

Anyways, tama naman we have to put great concern/care sa tires natin, not just for fuel economy & ride but for safety reasons (ours & other motorists). Remember though that they're built by the engineers who made them to be tough enough to handle the stresses they were designed for (including vulcanizing & repairs bec NO road in the world is perfect).

Palagay ko, if di ka nga makatulog, ipaulit mo na lang yung vulcanizing the way you want or just buy (at least) a pair of new tires as you said.


By the way, that must be one huge set of tires (monster truck?) to cost that much for each

The Yokohama tire is from a Subaru Forester bought in 2015. It has a 255/60R17 written in the tire. Yesterday I saw the price of it is around 11,000 pesos. May alam kayo ng tire na ganyan na mura lang?

Also can someone confirm if Yokahama ba ang original tire ng Subaru Forester 2015? Because hindi ko sure if napalitan na ng tires before. Sa looks ng treads, mukha ba bago? Mga 12 kilometers lang na takbo based sa odometer (because I seldom use it).

I noticed only 5 screws hold the tires. Ano ok na cover para sa wheel na ito? Because I realized how easy it is to loosen the screws of anyone's car while in parking (for example sa loob ng mall or isolated na parking) and wheel detached while driving.

[Miles_on]

[Edit ko na lang...]

Not too familiar with `subies but marami here who will chip in. Hintay lang tayo for their input.

Teka... eh how much ba yung vulcanizing method you're comfortable with? Mahal na siguro ang P400 (may super generous tip na rin yun) I'm saying this because paano if mapako ka ulit, replace tires again? Wow!